Image provided by: University of Oregon Libraries; Eugene, OR
About Just out. (Portland, OR) 1983-2013 | View Entire Issue (June 3, 2005)
18 just OUt ’ iune 3. 2005 'I.LIW'.'IWnews mATERIRLS and RESOURCES For EUERUDAU ARTISTS Muse Art+Design 4224 SE Hawthorne Blvd 503.231.8704 inuseartanddesiijn.com EQUIP I IdFORm I mSPIRE T he F lavor of C aprial ’ s B istro Executive chef sets the taste for popular gourmet dining by Jaymee R. Cuti As the head chef, Dowers has the reputation ark Dowers, executive chef for Capriai’s Bistro, is responsible of being cool as a cucumber in his bustling for the smoothness of the kitchen. sauces, the complexity of the I “He’s sort of the steady force in rhe restau soups and even the harmo rant,” said Caprial Pence, restaurant namesake nious flavors of the accompaniments to his and co-owner. main courses. Dowers’ calm manner has been invaluable in Dowers has worked at Capriai’s Bistro for 11 the restaurant, according to Doyle. years. The bistro has existed for 13. The flavor “He never talks down to you, and if you’re associated with the upscale gourmet restaurant not well informed, he’ll educate you. He would in Southeast Portland’s Sellwood neighbtirhtxxl never ask you to do something he wouldn’t do is Dowers’ own taste and talent. himself,” said Doyle. “I usually refer to it as worldly cuisine using Dowers said that training in European cui seasonal and local ingredients as much as possi sine often meant suffering humiliation from his ble,” said Dowers, who is gay. instructors. He vowed to leave the attitude out Dowers graduated from Horst Mager Culi of his kitchen. nary Institute, which is now Western Culinary “It’s all about really good communication Institute. skills, and I don’t believe I have to be mean or “That’s where I got my formal training. The humiliating to get my ideas across,” he said. “My LINNTON FEED & SEED. NOT THE MALL. We carry multi-pure water systems Dowers makes flames in creating an entree at the Portland gourmet restaurant. 10920 NW St. Helens Rd Portland, OR 97231 Phone: 503.286.1291 rest is from exposure and experience,” said Dow ers, a former chef at Eddie Lee’s Bistro of Port land’s culinary past. Dowers says he’s been cooking for as long as he could reach the stove and attributes his nat ural talent to his mother. His style has also been shaped by travels to Indonesia, France and Italy and collaboration with a tightly knit group of ftxxlies with whom he has regular dinner parties. “I always try to get invited to Mark’s house for dinner,” said Loris Doyle, a former bar man ager at Capriai’s Bistro. “He’s got a great group of friends, good wine to drink, lots to talk about and gtxxJ ftxxl. You can’t go wrong.” Dowers often helped Doyle design signature drinks to accompany his entrees. “He informs me about what fresh pnxluce is in season, and he has a very refined palate,” said Doyle. “Herbal or Asian flair cocktails work really well with Mark’s menu.” Doyle attributed Dowers’ professional guid ance to her ascension from busser to hostess to server to bar manager. “I’ve learned a lot from Mark, and that’s helped me get ahead,” she said. Big City Produce 2004 BEST Award winner - Best Sustainable Food System Little Store Big on Diversity. 722 N. Sumner (at N. Albina), Portland 503-460-3830 JACKSON z ADOLPH Flower Company. LLC tiw local fresh flower professionals 1424 East Bumside, Portland. OR 97214 503.282.0657 • 1.800.303.0657 »www.iacksonnowers.com X personality is on the mellow side, which is not typical for a head chef.” Dowers’ delicacies have earned a reputation among Capriai’s regulars. He has been lauded for seared duck with black bean glaze and Chi nese mustard vinaigrette. However, Dowers is chiefly known as a saucier. “Sauces and soups are my two main signa ture dishes,” said Dowers, who has a list of peo ple to call when he cooks a batch of Mark’s Gumbo, as it’s modestly listed on the menu. In fact, Dowers landed his position at the bistro by dazzling Pence and her co-owner hus band, John, with squash bisque with chorizo sausage and cinnamon croutons. “We knew we had a keeper,” said Pence. “I never worry about the food.” Together, she and Dowers penned a cook book titled Capriai’s Soups & Sandwiches. “It’s a great little hook. It sold pretty well. It’s out of print, but Powell’s still has copies,” said Dowers. The Pences have launched their love of unfussy ftxxl into a culinary empire with the restaurant and a public television cot iking show. They recently closet! a ctxikmg schtxil anti
