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About Just out. (Portland, OR) 1983-2013 | View Entire Issue (April 2, 2004)
42 ju s t o u t • aprii 2, 2004 eatingout eatingout eatingout eatingout eatingout eatingout S erving B r u n ch , L u n ch , & D inner ':n s . Ç . N D ( j r T $ ¿ *1 ^ % c a te: '• - r r 0 Breakfast - Lunch - Brunch Free Range and Organic 7 >■ A §Bt epiqueerean M B S r a l by M ichael E B arrett 3257 S. h. Hawthorne blvd. Portland, OR 97214 WWW. Calendula-Cafe.com | (503) 235*6800 Paris á Portland ¿Ail (l0Atyamo W i n e , B e e r , and C ider .! A mazing V egan D e s s e r t s d lert readers will note this issue’s “Epiqueerean” deviates slightly from the typical fare. There are rare occasions i when a dining experience is so outstand ing it warrants bucking the system. (A t least let’s hope my editor thinks so.) Hurley’s is one of those extraordinary nuggets. Jina c Vegeta ría n ^Éíniny A 0 ßnzd SMted B@@tí8 ] ; Hurley’s • 1987 N.W. Kearney St ■IMI I Open Daily 8 am - 4 pm Ojogserfe (a¡H 7 (<LoíííM(^ LAURELW00D PUBLIC HOUSE & BREWERY 1728 NE 40th Ave. 1/2 block North of Sandy on 40th • 503.282.0622 www.laurelwoodbrewpub.com 11am - Midnight Daily A Monday: MONSTOR MONDAY W ednesday: BREWERS NIGHT Great Happy Hour Food Menu Daily Portland's only Brewery to win 2 Gold Medals World Beer Cup 2002 Voted Portland's most kid friendly restaurant B I S T R O - 503 4 4 5 -9 7 7 7 Serving Stumptown Coffee! Brought to you by the owners of Shanghai Tunnel, Bar of the Gods and Tiny's Coffee Breakfast with Cocktails! # * N orthwest and C ontinental C uisine W k Fabulous Food & Drink Tues-Fri 4-6:30 p.m. NW L unch * D inner J azz 6 th 8 c I rving • U nion S tation • 503-223-0070 _ NW C ouch ( in O ld T own ) 503 / 827-5 11 3 [_u n ch u c K m 6 3 n or j istro Q 3 Portland, Oregon ¿ econ d - 208 1101 SE Division jvea- as t à t ^p e ■ a - o a cci c a fe ’• (equal or lesser value) Lunch I Wed-Fri 1 I am - 1pm No Reservations Needed I Breakfast Sat & Sun H am - 1 pm 213 SE 12th (503) 230-2381 8338 N . LomBaRÒ 503-247-1066 Coupon must be presented • expires 5-1 -04 1 estled between Portland’s popular dining zones of Northwest 21st Avenue and the Pearl District sits the unsuspecting head quarters of a palate pleasure called Hurley’s. Formerly Café des Amis, this French restau rant hears the name of its chef and owner, Thomas Hurley. Heavily influenced by the French Culinary Institute’s Dean Andre Solt ner, Hurley operates a spotless, orderly kitchen that yields a bouquet of epicurean sophistica tion rarely experienced here in Stumptown. Before the first cascade of flavor ever meets the tongue, Hurley’s welcomes you to a den of elegant warmth and comfort, achieved by a synthesis of ambiance and impeccable service. Greeted first by a flamboyant fresh flower arrangement, rhen hy an equally flamboyant maitre d’, rhis is the kind of place where you can surrender your appetite and your it k x k I to the guardianship of a whole team of dining spe cialists and allow your expectations to surge. 1 dabbled in a few entrees, including a gor geous roasted red pepper flan with Australian spiny lobster. This savory custard was reminis cent of Japanese chawan-mushi (egg custard), though smœther and far more refined. The purée of red pepper and lobster revealed hints of their respective flavors, careful not to bom bard the tongue with too much zest in advance of the main course. Also quite delectable was the “tart flambé.” Not to he confused with myself or the maitre d’, this puff pastry with caramelized onion and fromage blanc portrayed a delicate balance of density and flakiness, achieved only with great skill in the kitchen. Most meat courses are slow-cooked, permit ting the infusion of seasons, hut it is the ancil lary flavors manipulated out of rather fatty cuts that distinguish Hurley’s creations as “melt in your mouth” cuisine. The seared Sonoma arti san foie gras demonstrated this quality superbly, hut I must admit it was its marinade of tangy Oregon huckleberries that caught my attention and remains emblazoned in my memory. The menu changes daily, hut it is extensive. With admittedly small portions, presentation obviously plays a key role, and there is an incentive to try a few courses. Unlike establish ments o f similar ilk, the server makes a point of sharing this important information— lest you wonder why your dessert looks like a thimble on a flying saucer. Play along and you’ll find that for a little more money, you’ll leave Hurley’s having enjoyed a symphony of flavors. And, quite honestly, nearly every dish substitutes richness for quantity. N
