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About Just out. (Portland, OR) 1983-2013 | View Entire Issue (Jan. 9, 2004)
3 8 j u s t o u t ' January 9. 2004 eatingout eatingout eatingout eatingout eatingout eatingout epiqueerean by M ichael E B arrett The Last Sashimi J apan’s best export isn’t cars or electronics, it’s food! Portland plays host to a multitude of Japanese establishments, ready to tease your palate with a creative repertoire of tradi tional and fused dishes. Itadakimasu! FINE D IN IN G FROM THE SEA 3520 NE 4 2N D AT FREMONT 503-249-8486 Madame Butterfly • 425 S.W. Stark SL his downtown late-night eatery might not be the competition to Saucebox that it promised to he, but its menu boasts some lively interpretations of traditional Japanese fare. Sushi rolls abound, but don’t let the titles intimidate you— the Godzilla, Loch Ness M on ster and Caterpillar rolls taste nothing like they sound. My personal favorite is the Okinawa roll. Madame has introduced house-made mango sauce to complement this roll’s tropical namesake. Care for a cocktail? You’re in luck. Madame features an array of infusions and potions to satisfy the pickiest. For those who don’t mind a tinge of sweetness, the Chiba Cooler is your best bet. Limoncello and Parfait Amour find harmony with vodka, lemon juice and green tea, presenting the tongue with a rainbow of flavors. T DINNERS FROM 5:30 TO 9:30 WEDNESDAY - SATURDAY UlTfl CRFE + Using local & organic ingredients + All organic produce f Mostly vegetarian/vegan menu N o r t h w e s t and C onti nental C uisine Serving fresh panini sandwiches • e Delicious homemade soups & bold salads L unch • D inner J azz + Local hormone-free beef burgers Bush Garden • 900 S.W. M orrison St. Specialty and breakfast items too! + Local organic beer, wine, & fresh juices N W 6 t h 8 c I r v i n g • U n i o n S t a t i o n • 5 0 3 223 he first time I set foot in Bush Garden, I thought 1 was back in Japan. This Port land institution is also the city’s most authentic Japanese establishment, where the food, décor and staff are not lost in translation: This is the real thing. Forget sushi and tempu ra— those can be had just about anywhere. A t Bush, you’re better off enduring the discomfort of a traditional tatami room for a feast of sukiyaki or shabu shabu, two Japanese special ties for beef lovers. “Sha-bu! Sha-bu!” you utter as you swish the paper-thin slices of beef in boiling broth. Dip it in sesame sauce and your taste buds will be begging for more. T 0070 Spacious booths for groups and always quick service H <S L A R A B A yA H + Yummy kids menu! 3024 NE Alberta + 503-335-8233 Breakfast: Sat & Sun 8-5 Lunch: M-F 10-5 Supper: Sun-Wed 5-10 Thu-Sat 5-11 I N O R T H W E S T CM.ISINE W I T H T H E F L A V O R S O F I N D O N E S I A Dinner and Small Plates: Wednesday — Sunday Sunday Brunch; 10am - 3pm. Rijstafei: 7pm, Jan. 14 & 21. Reservations required. 4741 S E Hawthorne Blvd, Portland, Oregon iBniy R ee V'S: R estau rant <& B a r -) p T X 1 W i \ V a N\ U) i' m I I i i I I 2 8 0 8 N E AALK J r . Blvd 503 493-8127 - w w w . b illy r e e d s. c o m Sinju • 1022 N.W. Johnson St. FOR A GREAT STEAK, LOOK FOR THE REVOLVING STEAK SIGN EXCEPT IN BEAVERTON, WHERE THE CITY WOULDN’T LET US HAVE ONE I Baby, its cold outside! i i i i Come in and warm up! i i i | Bring this ad in for $5 o ff | | a purchase of $20 or more | Phone: 503.236.2845 h n ih Z 'f a" / Our revolving steak sign has become a landmark in Portland A sign o f quality. Where you knew you can get a great steak dinner at a fair price. Unfortunately, we couldn I get that same sign in Beaverton. But honestly, we 're not that hard to find 105th & SE Stark • 503-252-4171 - So, OU COPTO ü i home o f the 72 oz. steak Beaverton-Hillsdale Hwy at Griffith Dr. - 503-644-1492 rab your chopsticks and head to Sinju in the Pearl District, where even the prices are authentic—Japanese, that is. Sashimi lovers should treat themselves to a generous cut of blue fin tuna, when available. O-toro is the highest grade and, therefore, the fattiest. Avoid this if you don’t like sashimi that tastes too “fishy”; instead, ask for the medium chu- toro or the regular lean cut. Sinju’s Las Vegas roll is one of the best I’ve ever tasted. Filled with spicy tuna, avocado, eel and cream cheese, this epicurean delight achieves its piz zazz with the tempura-dipped seaweed that embraces the colorful selection of ingredients. G M ichael E B arrett (who, by the way, lived in Japan for more than three years) will pen Epiqueerean in the first issue of every month. M eg D aly will continue to write the column in the second issue of every month.
