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About Just out. (Portland, OR) 1983-2013 | View Entire Issue (Aug. 2, 2002)
12 JttS t M il ' august 2. 2002 pTiTiT7TIW?TIneu>s • ! > ; S outhern C omfort New Orleans bistro keeps it all in the family by Rachel Lane Fine A m e ric a n C raft Downtown Portland Portland Airport 901 SW Yamhill 503.284.9929 Washington Square 503.223.9510 503.620.2243 www.therealmothergoose.com 1 Mechanics that fix everything. including your icons! ' PISTILS NURSERY 10% o f f vines d u r i n g A u g u s t -Pistil P D X Automotive Is a certified Eco-Logical Business. (5 0 3 ) 282-3315 tuttiiasbljr grown flou * A * U T o M 1 W 0 _________ w T 1 V 3811 N . M i s s i s s i p p i Ave. P o r t l a n d , Oregon 503- 288-4889 j E M th a nta With A Cmudenca W E D - S A T 10-6 IMO' Gerard Lillie «5934 N E. Halsey po’ S U N 10-5 w e ll-sto c k e d rosewood bar divides the % room into A J L roughly equal halves. Artwork mounted on the walls suggests the bitter- sweet piquancy of New Orleans life. Welcome to Acadia, the latest in a series of restaurants opened by Rob Adams and Bud Deslatte. Adams, co-owner, floor manager, bookkeeper and Webmaster, grew up in Michi gan and Illinois and earned a bachelors degree in econom ics from Rice University in Texas. He spent 10 years in retail before a friend intro duced him to New Orleans chef-entrepreneur Deslatte in 1989. Deslatte recently had opened the Bayou Bar and Grill in San Diego’s burgeon ing Gaslamp Quarter. The two became friends, lovers and business partners— more or less in that order— and now have envisioned, built and, in time, bequeathed two still- Bud Deslatte (left) cooks the beans while Rob Adams counts them flourishing California restau Acadia cuisine is based on tried-and-true rants to former employees. Acadia: A New classic recipes Deslatte has developed during the Orleans Bistro, which opened in October 2001, is their third restaurant together and Deslatte’s past 20 years. Signature entrees include seafood gumbo; barbecued fresh-flown Gulf shrimp in a seventh. light, zesty sauce of butter, rosemary lemon juice Deslatte’s art d’cuisine is self-taught. He grew and pepper; and “The Big Easy,” which is up in New Orleans and worked in the corporate Louisiana drum (aka redfish) complemented sector for years. He threw dinner parties for with a touch of Dijon mustard and hollandaise friends and family, and soon these devotees sauce. encouraged him to open his first restaurant, There are two keys to Deslatte’s success. Feelings Café, in the early ’80s. First, his recipes are personal and authentic and In short order, the eatery won attention as have found fans in his native Louisiana, Geor one of the city’s top restaurants. Deslatte’s gia, California— north and south— and now authentic Creole/Cajun fare garnered praise Portland. Second, a g<xxl recipe is only as good from fans including Bon Appetit magazine and as the experience, skill and Zen-like nonattach- singer Johnny Mathis, who raved, “It’s not just a ment of its creator. restaurant, it’s a Moment!” “Chef de Cuisine” Adam Higgs, formerly of His next venture took him to Atlanta, where Portland’s L’Auberge, came to Acadia with little he opened A Taste of New Orleans to critical praise. The Journal-Constitution named it one of previous experience in New Orleans cooking. But that didn’t matter to the owners, who were the city’s top 10 of 1987, and Esquire magazine impressed with his openness and enthusiasm to rated it as one of the country’s 50 finest new learn a new style. restaurants. “I brought Adam on board not just because “We have been nomadic by choice,” Deslat he had the ability and professionalism that I te says. The pair, who are quite fond of Oregon, also have a plan on the boards to open a lunch require,” Deslatte explains, “but because of what I believed that Adam himself could eventually eonette in Portland. bring to my recipes, our menu.” Deslatte says he finds the greatest pleasure in Simmons adds: “Deslatte and Adams never starting and developing restaurants, working to make them successful, then moving on. All of let ego get in the way of creativity, of quality and good working relationships. Working for Bud his six previous establishments continue to thrive in the hands of former employees. In Sep and Rob was like family.” tember 2000, waitress Robin Simmons and sous- Now, if that is not a secret for success in any chef Edwin Caba bought CreoLa, his highly suc business— much less one of the most risky cessful restaurant in San Carlos, Calif. around— who knows what is. j n “ Bud could have sold our restaurant to other people for a lot more money,” she says. A cadia : A N ew O rleans B istro is open from “ Bud and Rob went out o f their way to help 5 to 10 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday at 1303 N .E . Fremont St. For more information call my partner, Edwin, and I to find the funding and other necessary resources to not only buy 503-249-5001 or visit wuw.creolapdx.com. this restaurant but to maintain the high stan dards that Bud always advocated. Two words RACHEL L a n e is an actress , director and writer who describe Bud and Rob,” she concludes, “gen can be seen daily at Portland parks accompanied by Mac, her handsome German shorthaired pointer. erosity and love.” PHOTO BY CONTEMPORARY ORIGINALS
