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About Just out. (Portland, OR) 1983-2013 | View Entire Issue (Dec. 21, 2001)
21.2001 18 W ith a name like Wild A b andon, an establishment has a lot to live up to. This funky gay-owned restaurant, located in a cozy single-story building covered in ivy, makes the grade. It serves an eclectic array of “new Amer ican” cuisine, which covers everything from cioppino to risotto, from crab cakes to strip steaks, from tortas to tortes. Inside, the tables are covered with butcher paper and little jars of crayons for patrons’ self- expression. Even the chairs encompass a diverse mix of styles. A fresco on the rear wall depicts muscled men and women wearing green togas and eating apples in an Eden-like setting. The rest of the place is filled with local artwork for sale. T ne restaurant is lit by a combination of faux 19th century London lamps and colored glass 7 0s swag lights, an obsession of owner Michael Cox. A two-level patio out back is decorated with herb and plant boxes. Before Wild Abandon opened, the building was home to several other restaurants. Back in the 70s it was a massage parlor, Ginger’s Sexy Sauna. Cox bought Wild Abandon along with four other waiters. “1 wanted to open a restaurant, but I didn’t have the money to do it myself. I sorta had this utopian concept that our differ ences would all create some kind of wonderful balance and it would all come together and be great. Sort of like communism. It fell apart like the Soviet Union and at the same time.” Cox left for six months when the differences didn’t get ironed out. When he came back, he bought out the others. He has largely run the restaurant himself for the past six years. Many of his customers are members of the sex- ual minorities com “You know that old saying, ‘Loca munity. Wild Aban tion, location, location’ ? It’s true. It’s don returns the favor been a struggle,” Cox says. “People by supporting a num have to come here on purpose, so not ber of gay and les much business happens on accident bian causes, includ like you would have if you were on ing Cascade AIDS Hawthorne or Northwest 21st or 23rd. Project and Basic It’s more difficult to open a restaurant Rights Oregon. and build your clientele in a residen The restaurant tial location like this.” also helps raise Because the building is grand money for Our fathered in from before the area was House, a residential zoned residential, Wild Abandon can care facility for those not expand its site. Space is at a pre living with and dying mium, with food stacked to the walls from AIDS. The in the kitchen. owner adopted the Cox would like to add a fryer, but nonprofit partly be no space is available under the fume cause it is local and hood. He also would like to repaint needs financial sup the outside walls without tearing port. “People need to down the ivy. remember that the Regardless, Wild Abandon has AIDS epidemic is prospered, and when people visit, they Wild Abandon owner Michael Cox admits his original utopian concept turned out to not over,” says Cox, tend to come back. It will celebrate its be less than ideal who has had a couple seventh anniversary in February. of friends spend their last days at Our House. man parked a truck with giant billboards out This is what happens when a restaurant cul He also has supported a variety of lesbian causes, side the restaurant and began shouting anti-gay tivates community support, Cox says. “I kinda, including sponsoring a softball team. The goal, messages through a bullhorn. you know, believe that you get back what you according to Cox, is to make everyone feel welcome. The owner also makes sure his employees, put out there in the universe.” |P1 “I think it’s a win-win situation,” he says of most of whom are straight, create an accepting the charitable contributions. “Just from a busi environment. W i l d A b a n d o n is located at 2411 S.E. Belmont ness standpoint, people appreciate that. It’s “The 20-something crowd I generally hire are St. and can be reached at 503-232-4458. The goodwill for the community. It’s good for busi so incredibly open, you don’t know which ones of restaurant is open from 5:30 to ¡0 p.m. Sunday ness, and it’s just good karma.” them are gay and which ones are straight,” he through Thursday, from 5:30 to 11 p.m. Friday This symbiotic relationship is not surprising says. “The lines are so gray, and they are so and Saturday and from 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. weekends. considering Wild Abandon is located in liberal accepting. It seems to be just a nonissue.” Southeast Portland. Cox recalls only one In fact, Wild Abandon’s primary obstacle has EH R EN E v a n s ’ second hobby was organometallic homophobic incident in more than 6 1/2 years nothing to do with sexuality. The restaurant’s resi chemistry. His first was writing. 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