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About Just out. (Portland, OR) 1983-2013 | View Entire Issue (June 1, 2001)
I wmmrnmmmmmmmmm I’m ¡1 1 : ivi 4.1 Inews T here are a lot of things people don’t seem to know about Hobo’s. Free parking. Pool tables. Shang hai tunnels. No, the place is not for sale, but yes, a new chef has taken over the kitchen. And upholding the establishments 22-year friend ship with Portland’s sexual minorities communi ty are Hobo’s straight and married proprietors. Housed within a registered historic brick building in Old Town, Hobo’s comfortable dining room includes a small outdoor courtyard. Dinner conversation quietly is underscored by live music from a piano bar in the adjacent lounge. And nearly hidden beyond the more intimate recesses of the lounge is a games room featuring pool tables, dartboards, pinball machines and a sound track with its own unique rhythm. “We get the total spectrum,” owner Harriett Guthrie says, “from one customer who brings in his aunt who’s 95, to late at night when we have 21 -year-olds coming in after work.” Some guests simply flow from the dining room to the lounge. “Others come for the very different, upbeat games room atmosphere, some specifically for the piano bar, and some just for dinner,” hus band and business associate Andy Guthrie says. Now, the diverse patrons of Hobo’s can enjoy a new diversity in the kitchen’s bill of fare, too. “We just hired a new chef a couple of weeks ago,” Harriett announces. “She’s very much into fresh foods. She has updated the menu to include more salads, appetizers and things that aren’t traditional to our menu.” House specialties of prime rib and deep-fried honey chicken are joined by dishes focusing on fresh ingredients, herbs and lighter fare with the warm summer months in mind, says Kara Pritch ett, the young and energetic new head cook. “I think a chefs personality really makes what goes on,” Harriett mentions. “She’s very strong. She knows where she’s going. She knows her food, and she’s had really good experience.” Pritchett describes her approach more as a facelift to the menu rather than an extreme change. She began by updating existing dishes before introducing vegetarian and seafood options. “My flavors are really clean,” she says. “I’m a real purist when it comes to cooking.” In addition, Hobo’s is considering introduc ing some theme nights. “We had a few really fun themed birthday parties,” Harriett says, “so we thought we might take it to the next level. Just something maybe a little different.” But the more things change, the more they stay the same— especially when it comes to repeat customers. Beyond the appeal of the new menu, the piano bar and the pool tables, Harri ett and Andy attribute Hobo’s success to the loyalty of both its customers and its 20-member staff. Low employee turnover has meant familiar tune i. 2001 » j M a t M * n A S ide of L uck and a T wist of F ate “With everything that’s happening with the Pearl District and the waterfront, there is a lot more diversity of people,” Harriett notices. “There are a lot of young people at the water front apartments, and there seems to be more mature, maybe even older, people buying those lofts in the Pearl District.” One of the most surprising things to this Hobo's mix of cocktails, crowds and cuisine benefits from its diversity couple through the years has been how persis- by Timothy Krause tent rumors can be— especial- I ly one in particular. o faces to the clientele, many of whom “Everybody keeps telling 3 have been coming long before Harri me that Hobo’s is for sale. I don’t know where that comes ett stepped behind the bar. | from. I hear it probably every “You can’t see people a couple * month or two. I’ve never had times a week and not become friends it for sale and don’t intend to, with a lot of them,” she points out. “I so it’s odd," Harriett says have people who come in four, five, incredulously. six times a week. A lot of people eat out, and a lot of people I know don’t “But,” she adds with a laugh, “I got some great advice even use their kitchens. So we keep early on from [Starky’s owners] our lounge menu in a price range Carl and Archie. They said: where people came come in and have ‘Honey, don’t worry about it. If burgers or whatever more than once a week.” they’re talking about you, they’re not talking about me. A native of Walla Walla, Wash., And if they’re not talking Harriett came to Hobo’s somewhat about me, they’re talking out of the blue 12 years ago. She had about you!’ ” been a customer at the restaurant for a number of years. When digging deeper into Hobo’s lore, however, rumors While sitting at the bar one night Thanks to Harriett Guthrie, Hobo’s is a place where everybody give way to legend. For be with her friends, Harriett was asked knows your name neath the modem piano bar by the owner if they would like to buy the place. “I don’t know what made us think aspects of the business. Until you’ve done it for and video games lie remnants of Portland’s infa that novices could run a restaurant!” she a while, it can be pretty scary.” mous shanghai tunnels. observes with bemusement. Taking over Hobo’s was a happy fete for Har The basement is not open to the public, but Harriett didn’t even know the place was for riett, and meeting Andy was just as much a a glimpse into the shadows reveals dirt floors, sale. She was working at the time in a collection lucky coincidence. The two became acquainted, stone walls and bars over a bricked-up window. appropriately enough, at a Portland bar in 1992. Andy alludes to a mysterious passageway in the management position for a medical center. She initially hesitated but doubted her Originally from South Africa, Andy had a wall that continues on through other buildings friends would go through with the business ven penchant for travel. He worked in bars and in the block, while Harriett coyly hints that ture if she wasn’t a partner. So Harriett took the restaurants until he saved enough money to join Hobo’s even might be haunted. plunge and eventually bought out her friends’ his friends abroad. After a couple of years in “I’m here day and night, and you definitely hear weird noises and things. The building in shares in the restaurant with no regrets. Europe, he set his sights on the United States. “I couldn’t go back and sit behind a comput Once here, Andy took advantage of “drive- particular seems to have a lot of history to it,” er for eight hours anymore,” she says. “I love away” programs, chauffeuring vehicles from one she teases. being with people. And what better place than coast to the other and seeing firsthand a lot of Tall tales aside, Harriett emphasizes that the a restaurant or bar?” what’s in between. He traversed the country best part of owning Hobo’s is having a place where she simply feels comfortable. For the first five years or so, Harriett bar- four times before ending up in the Rose City. tended a lot. As a longtime customer, she Portland and the terrain of the Columbia “I want my customers to feel the same already knew most of the regulars; many contin Gorge reminded him of South Africa, and once way, she concludes. “Everybody’s welcome ued to patronize Hobo’s. he met Harriett, it wasn’t long before he decid here Socializing with friends and customers has ed he was here to stay. been the part of the business she has enjoyed the Perhaps one of the greatest changes for Hobo’s H o b o ’S is located, at 12 0 N .W . Third Ave. and can most. But if bartending came easily, other areas of through the years has been the character of its be reached by calling 5 0 3 '2 2 4 -3 2 8 5 . The restaurant’s running an establishment were more challenging. surrounding neighborhood. Once-common drug new sum m er menu and other details can be found on “I hadn’t done this before,” Harriett com dealers, for example, left the area when a police its Internet site at www .hobos.citysearch.com . ments. “There were a lot of things that weren’t precinct office opened down the street. The new visible on the surface. Insurance things, things Portland Classical Chinese Garden, residential TIMOTHY K r a u se is a writer and editor in Portland the owner wanted— a lot more than just the developments and commercial improvements all who now w ants to pen a novel set m the shanghai food. You have to suddenly learn different have led more people into Old Town. tunnels. E -m ad him at tim kra@ m illenicom .com . in . ■ DVD VIDEO MAGAZINES TOYS NOVELTIES LOTIONS ÉD01TI-CDADDSI M W 5 DAY MUTAI SiCTIOD NEED MODE ROOM FOR D V D ... HUGE VIDEO DLOWOUT S U E ' 2 3 3 0 S .E . 8 2 N D A V E PO R TLAN D 5 0 3 -7 7 7 -6 0 3 3 237 S .E . 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