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About Capital press. (Salem, OR) 19??-current | View Entire Issue (Sept. 13, 2019)
6 CapitalPress.com Friday, September 13, 2019 Central Washington winery all about terroir By HEATHER SMITH THOMAS For the Capital Press V19-1/101 In 1998 Cox Canyon Vineyards was the first com- mercial vineyard planted in Kittitas County, Wash., and Ellensburg Canyon Winery was the 697th licensed win- ery in Washington. Owner Gary Cox always had an interest in soils. He has a bachelor’s degree from Southern Illinois University in plant and soil science, and a master’s degree in agron- omy and soils from Washing- ton State University. After working at the Han- ford Nuclear Reservation for 34 years, Cox is now retired, devoting all his attention to his passion of utilizing sus- tainable practices. All pruning materials are mulched back to the soil, facilitating water and nutri- ent uptake. In addition, “we use state-of-the-art precision irrigation technology (Reg- ulated Deficit Irrigation), to stress the vines, resulting in intense fruit flavors,” he said. Regulated Deficit Irriga- tion involves restricting irri- gation between fruit set and when the grapes begin to ripen to control shoot growth and influence grape quality. Cox also worked as an instructor of agro-ecosys- tems at Yakima Valley Col- lege, teaching sustainabil- ity, terroir of Washington and agro-ecology. With his inter- est in soils, plants and wines, it was natural to combine his Heather Smith Thomas For the Capital Press Kendall Kramer and Gary Cox at a farmers’ market with their product on display. Gary Cox’s 17-acre Cox Canyon Vineyard is in the northwest corner of the Columbia Valley AVA . talents into growing grapes and making wines. The Columbia Val- ley American Viticultural Area is Washington’s larg- est grape-growing region. “The foothills of the Cascade Mountains form a unique microclimate along the west- ern part of it,” said Cox. His 17-acre Cox Can- yon Vineyard has 7 acres in production. This includes 5 acres of 21-year-old wine grapes — 3 acres of Caber- net Franc, 1.4 acres of Ries- ling and .6 acres of Malbec. “The vines planted in 1998 provide a 500-case-per- year production,” said Cox. “This is a beautiful west-sloping site at the entrance to the Wild and Sce- nic Yakima River Canyon. Volcanic ash deposited in layers from early eruptions of Mt. Rainier, Adams and St. Helens provides valuable micronutrients in the soil,” he said. The elevation — 1,400 to 1,525 feet — is higher than other Yakima Valley vine- yards, he said. This provides good air flow, and daily temperature fluctuations of 50 degrees, which develop flavinoids in the grapes. Flavinoids in fruits and vegetables have dietary health benefits as powerful antioxidants that aid the immune system. “Our vineyard is commit- ted to the concept of terroir, the French term to define the many conditions which make each vineyard site unique within a growing region,” said Cox. “This particular terroir ripens late, producing low yields (2.5 tons/acre) with small grape size, deep color and great concentration of fruit flavors,” he said. “Temperatures here may be 3-5 degrees cooler on average, but increased hours of sunlight (from a more northerly latitude) during mid-season pro- vide optimal conditions for intensely flavored fruit,” he said.
