NATIONAL
Cookbook brings back old ways
NEW ORLEANS (AP) - To
judge by all the evidence
amassed in her recently re
issued classic cookbook from
1928. Mrs. S.R Dull of Atlanta
was anything but.
Dull, whose 1964 obituary
hailed her as author of "the
standard by which regional
cooks have been measured,"
comes across in her new-old
book as lively indeed, a woman
who knew well the labor of
food but never let it stop being
a labor of love.
“We had a devil of a time
finding clean books to copy,”
says Cherokee Press president
Ken Boyd. “Many pages were
spattered with grease and food
or wrinkled with use."
The current edition of
"Southern Cooking" was as
sembled from two books bor
rowed from the Atlanta Histori
cal Society and one from a pri
vate collection. At $18.95.
Cherokee's first reprinting sold
out within days, creating a de
lay as the book again went back
to press.
History buffs may wish to
know that Cherokee worked
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K All YOU CAN
CAPTURE
those fun times
on film.
Get yours at the
UO Bookstore.
from the 1928 original put out
by the long-defunct Ruralist
Press. A 1941 version from
New York's Grossett and Dun
lap — 200.0(H) copies strong —
simply was not antiquarian
enough to satisfy Cherokee.
Antiquarian is certainly one
way to describe "Southern
Cooking." in the worst and
best ways. Its 350 recipes come
from the Golden Age of Home
Ec. when home cooks were
raised with a body of shared
techniques that required little
additional explanation.
Many of the recipes carry the
explicit or implicit instruc
tions. "Mix and cook until
done the way you always do."
Rather than being measured
precisely in the modem man
ner. many ingredients carry the
mandate to add until you've
added "enough." Therefore, it
takes a certain kitchen prowess
lo use the book to make meals.
By the same token, it takes
no skill at all to bask in the
warmth of Dull's personality —
not so much a writing style as a
lifestyle. It shows the same un
reconstructed zest as her reci
pes. all concocted before cooks
started counting grams of fat.
cholesterol or sodium.
Anyone, cook or otherwise,
will get a kick out of Dull's
endless bits of advice, such as
hints for a “seated wedding
breakfast" built around "half a
broiled chicken on toast" and
"rice croquettes with green
peas."
"The table." notes Dull,
"may have olives, mints and
nuts. The linen, china and sil
ver should be perfect."
("Southern Cooking" by
Henrietta Stanley Dull. Chero
kee Publishing. Box 1730. Mar
ietta GA 30061)
Senate downs proposal
WASHINGTON (AP) -
The Senate Monday night
narrowly refected an amend
ment to the gas-guzzlers bill
that would aid laid-off auto
workers.
In debate on a bill to re
quire cars to average 40
miles per gallon, the Senate
voted 49-40 to refect an
amendment by Sen. Paul Si
mon. D-lll . that would have
provided special unemploy
ment assistance for those
workers.
A vote on whether to close
off debate on the bill was
scheduled for Tuesday.
Later the Senate agreed.
55-40. to a include in the
legislation new incentives
for automakers to produce
vehicles that can run on al
ternative fuels such as meth
anol. ethanol or natural gas.
The measure would allow
manufacturers to claim cred
its against fuel efficiency re
quirements if they produce
such vehicles.
In earlier debate on the
legislation, opponents ar
gued that the higher fuel
economy requirements
would be a death blow to the
midsize family sedan and
force automakers to produce
only small cars
The legislation’s support
ers maintained that manu
facturers have shown in the
past that they can come up
with technologies to greatly
improve fuel efficiency and
still provide customers with
a broad range of vehicle
models.