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About Oregon daily emerald. (Eugene, Or.) 1920-2012 | View Entire Issue (Oct. 24, 1972)
Lawyer presents confab keynoter By LEAH LEACH Of the Emerald “The women’s movement has a lot to offer to women who reached adulthood before the present movement got started,” commented Fay Stender, co-founder of the Oakland Prison Law Project, as she spoke about some of her experiences as a woman in law Saturday afternoon. Hers was the keynote address for the Second Annual Western Regional Conference for Women in the Law sponsored by the Women’s I^aw Forum of the University Law School, student Bar Association, and the Law school. There was confusion about a rumor that Stender had been arrested, but she explained this was a charge of contempt from a San Fransisco court for refusing to testify against a client. She is appealing the charge. Stender cited several cases of personal discrimination and of fered several suggestions. But at one point she commented, “I don’t know what this audience hopes to learn from my ex periences.” One job she took after leaving school entailed receiving a salary that was $100 less than a man who had been hired the same day, did the same work and had no special talents that Stender could see. She quit. Early in her career, she took three years off to have her two children. She recommended this when the children are young, saying that “women should have the option of taking time off or working part time for their kids.” Stender seemed to feel that sexist attitutdes did exist, that these attitudes “amount to an oppression as heavy as that to other movements,” but that in any event, the most important thing is to serve the client and try to win his case. She commented that conflicts with speech or dress styles in the formal atmosphere of the courtroom are perhaps an indication that that person should consider another line of work. “Ability is the single-most determinate factor, though there art* problems with protective judges and such things.” She said that women have to do less role-playing now. “I played up to the chivalrous side of male chauvinism and won a lot of cases that way.” ASUO coordinating recycling efforts The ASUO Survival Center is now coordinating a recycling program for the University. Project Intercept is assisting the University in controlling garbage by intercepting all re usable paper, while not costing the University any money this year, according to Mike Dotten, Director of the survival center. Bill Dingle, Eugene resident, and Steve Trinunell, Cottage Grove, are co-directors of the project. According to Lingle, their biggest job presently is to "contact every person on cam pus, get every scrap of paper.” He said, "Right now one or two offices within a building are contributing We hope to get all offices in each building In volved." Currently 22 buildings on campus are participating in the project by disposing their recyclable paper in a designated basket located in each office To make the project Univer sity wide, they must demonstrate there is a lot of paper on campus Wmgle said Forty percent of the garbage on campus is paper "Occasionally we run into people who think it isn’t worth anybody’s time. A lot of people don't realize how much paper they use,” Lingle explained. Project Intercept currently receives one and a half tons of paper a week. Their goal is at least four tons. Those papers that can by recycled are: writing, typing, ditto, manila and scrap. They cannot use carbon paper, onion skin, most brightly colored heavy paper and magazines made of slick paper. Also, cellophane window envelopes and goldenrod cannot be recycled. Dotten said Project Intercept is funded by the state employment division, which is then reim bursed by the Work Incentive Program (WIN). Hay Hawk, vice-president for administration finance, said Thursday there is a question of whether a "recycling program may be economically feasible in the future ’’ Hawk has asked for reports from Harold Babcock, Director of the Physical Plant, and William McLaughlin, Director of Business Affairs on economical feasibility of a program like Project Intercept. Everything you always wanted to know about sex around the worlds ★ Bit wirt afraid to ask 4th in a senes ot discussion groups with foreign and American students. Tuesday, Oct. 24, 7:30 pm College Inn Lounge I FLAT TIRES | DON’T SINfi By John Karras Part 3 The bike boom that has exploded (and that’s no exaggeration) in this country in the last few years has focused primarily on the higher quality machines, the adult models with three-, five-, ten- or fifteen-speeds. In this article we’ll deal with the three-speed—the others have much in common with each other. After a flat tire, the three commonest (and most easily repaired) afflictions of a three-speed bike are 1) gears out of adjustment, 2) brake blocks worn or misaligned, and 3) a sticky chain. You’ll know your gears are out of adjustment if you can’t shift into first or if the pedals suddenly and without warning while you’re pumping hard (usually in second or “normal” gear) begin to spin around freely. What usually happens at this point is that the surprised rider wobbles about wildly before flop ping down and skinning a knee or worse. After you’ve caught your breath and your heartbeat has returned to normal and you’ve had three fingers of red-eye to calm your nerves, follow the following steps. Stand the bike up. See what kind of rear hub you have—the shifting trigger or handle mechanism should have the brand name on it. The two commonest brands are Sturmey Archer and Shimano. The Sears hub is patterned after one or the other. If there are others, I haven’t heard of them. If yours is a Sturmey Archer, get two pairs of pliers, put the trigger mechanism in second or “normal” gear (spin the pedals backward a quarter turn to make sure the mechanism shifts), then squat down behind the bike. You’ll see on the right side of the hub a nut with an extension tube on it and a hole in the end through which enters a small chain. There’s also a hole in the side of the extension tube. If you look closely, you’ll see that the end of the axle stops just at the hub side of the hole. Now, still looking into that side hole, reach around and pull a little on the cable attached to the chain. You’ll see that a thing that looks like a thick pin slides in and out of the axle. You’ll also see that just left of where the chain is attached to this thing, the thing has a shoulder. That shoulder, when the gears are in adjustment, should line up with the end of the axle in second or “normal” gear. w SHOULDER On the other end of the small chain you’ll see, in this order, a threaded rod. a small knurled lock nut, and a long knurled cylinder. Loosen the lock nut by turning it counter-clockwise. If your fingers can’t budge it. use the two pairs of pliers, holding the long knurled cylinder steady with one pair while backing the lock nut off with the other. You can now. in effect, lengthen or shorten the little chain by holding it with one hand while tightening or loosening the cylinder with the other. Do this until the shoulder on the thing is in the position described above Tighten the lock nut back up against the cylinder, and you’re done. if the pedals still slip, the trouble probably is in the trigger mechanism The little trigger in there may be sticking Put the trigger in first-gear position Flick it up Does it click right into second or does it move sluggishly or stick along the way? If it does, anoint it from the top with a few drops of sewing machine oil and give the mechanism a workout to get the oil in. The Shimano has a similar lock-nut and cylinder connection. But instead of looking for a shoulder on the pin, look for the point on the rear shifting mechanism to line up the “N” for “normal” gear. Tighten or loosen the little cylinder until the “N” is in the right spot. If your pedals still slip, take the bike to a com petent repairman. If he can’t solve the problem, consider taking up jogging. Next, the brake blocks. They’re those rubber things, usually black, that grip the rims when you squeeze the handles. Get your eye down close to the front one, first on one side of the rim and then the other, and squeeze the front brake lever. Do the blocks hit the rim squarely? Does the top edge of the block ride over the edge of the rim? The bottom edge? Are the blocks worn out? If the answer to any of the above is yes, go get your set of open-end wrenches. You’ll see that a nut holds the block in place in the brake arm. Find the right wrench for the nut and, holding the block steady with the other hand, loosen the nut by turning it counter-clockwise. At this point, find an accomplice. Have him squeeze the front brake lever gently so you can line the block up properly so it hits the rim and only the rim. Once lined up, have the accomplice squeeze the lever hard to hold the block firmly against the rim. At the same time, you steady the block with one hand to keep it from twisting and tighten the nut with the other (using the wrench, of course). Repeat this procedure on all the brake blocks. If the block is worn out, unscrew the nut com pletely, take the block to your bike shop and have it matched with a new one. It is very common for blocks to become tilted in the brake arm, and that means poor braking and a possible blown-out tire if the block wears in enough to cut into the tire’s sidewall. So check the position and condition of your brake blocks occasionally and avoid problems. Chain most neglected Next, the chain, which probably is the most neglected and abused component on most bicycles. If your chain is full of gunk, squeaking or rusted, follow this procedure. Squat down next to the poor thing. Examine it link by link. Sooner or later, you’ll find a funny looking link with a queer gizmo on its side. This is the master link. (If you have a five-, ten- or fifteen speed bike, don’t look for this link, because it isn’t there.) Get a screwdriver, a newspaper and an old rag. Spread the newspaper on the ground or floor under the master link. This will facilitate finding the gizmo when you lose it. (Never, but never, and I can’t stress this strongly enough, try this procedure on grass.) One end of the gizmo has two prongs with a space between. Take the rag in one hand and hold the chain firmly as close as possible to the master link. Then use the edge of the screwdriver blade to drive (not the end, or you’ll jab yourself) the gizmo out of its present position, pushing, of course, toward the hand that holds the chain firm. Eventually, you’ll get the gizmo off, and the next time it’ll be easier. Put it in a safe place. The chain will now come apart where you took the gizmo off. Go to a gas station with an old coffee can in hand and buy a pint or so of kerosene or solvent, whichever the station has. Soak the chain in it. If the chain is really gummed up, you’ll have to go over it, link by link, alternately soaking and working the joints, until the gunk is gone. An old toothbrush or an old one-inch paint brush helps in the scrubbing. After you're satisfied with the cleanliness of the chain, take it out of the solvent and lay it on a rag or several thicknesses of newspaper to drain. It doesn't have to be totally dry. just rid of most of the solvent Then oil it. I use Sturmey Archer bicycle oil, but any medium-weight oil will do. You can dip it into a can of oil. then let it drain before putting it back on the bike, but I just lay the chain out and run a dribble of oil back and forth over it until I’ve hit every link Now put the chain back, driving the gizmo back into place the way it was originally. And ride cm.