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About The Oregon daily journal. (Portland, Or.) 1902-1972 | View Entire Issue (Nov. 4, 1906)
THE OREGON SUNDAY JOURNAL, PORTLAND. SUNDAY MORNING. NOVEMBER 4, 1909. The Debutante's Gown Must aintain an Ap-J pcarance oi - icity NoMatter How Elaborately V Creator Or Fashions For The fhsinoNABLE Women Or A It May Be Made Up. MFiRl uKTHri?'..' ''v' - :. 'Ml llifiiil I ...rra&in A -' Ov, r : K&WM W I - m aa . m i - r - B .-; , . . m mm m m m .. LAST prlng the aweet girl gradu ate turned her back -upon the choolroom and made tentative excursions - Into the world of grown-up people during the summer. Now she la making her bow to society . and claiming as here by right the at tentions and social pleasures whltr-h has hitherto only witnessed through - a " crack In the schoolroom door, as It were. She take a. vivid Interest In her flrat real grown-up dress, whether she be the . daughter of a millionaire or of parent to whom the oomlng out of a daughter , means anxiety as to the post of gowns. The gowns Illustrated may be made tip la such" materials as may be within one's means, tAktng pains to have these materlala of the same eoftneaa or stiff ness, ' whatever the fabrto may be In quality and price. - r jngur A Illustrate a. charming frock of Ivory chiffon, of a deep creamy tine The lower part of the bodice and top of ! the aklrt are In groups of pin tucks. Which give a graceful, clinging effect' .about the waist Insertlnga of transpar. ent lace In this case Valenciennes out line the gores of the skirt. We are getting back to gored skirt now, and one sees plenty 6f them, especi ally in the new circular effect. - The yoke of the bodice Is of parallel Trowf Valenciennes, with short con. neotlng strap on the ahouldera.' 81s point come up on this yoke, and these are formed of jhlrred chiffon framed In alternate long atd 'short insertlngs of .., lace. The long Insertlngs begin at the belt and the ahort onea a little above the group of tuck In the lower part of the bodice. .'. ... The sleeve are made of two row of - Valenciennes, alternating with groups of pin tuck, arranged quite full and gath ered to a deep cuff mad of a group of pin tuck finished with a lace ruffle. A very youthful finish 1 given to the . bodice by a atar-ahaped belt of Ivory satin laid In diamond-shaped tucking. ' The girdle Is boned under the long and -short space of the diamonds. The tuck- -Ing could be made la either upright or horlsontai tucks, according to the figure -of the wearer. Princes Form Achieved by Tuck. Lace is Inserted In the gores of the skirt in alternate long and short panel, repeating the decoration in the bodice. The short Inserting terminate in point upon Insertions of lac around the lower part of the skirt, while upon the bottom .edg of thla decnratlva Jand - .arappl - i-rn wi point ui anon paneis oi iscs wnicn are est oerwaen the long ana short Insertion In ths bottom of the skirt This gown Is made up over Ivory llt, finished with knlfe-pleatlngs. ' A Very dainty material for thla BOrt Of gown, and one much leaa expensive than .-cniTion, j. the transparent- lovely, and ye sirong none anown a jussi ciotn (pronounced hoosle cloth), which is made - In the Philippines. It Is a specie of PECULIAR MOTIVES FOR SELF H H It T HE woman who put so small an sstlmnt on the value of her life , as to commit suicide a few., day., ago because ab could not secure a servant girl Is by 'no mean aa Isolated type. On who . pays any attention st all to the re , ports of ths esses of self-destruction . soon discovers that suicide is likely to be attempted for the most trivial rea- - sons. Bum Of the cases are easily ex plainable on the theory of Insanity. - pueeil all .Instance. houl4-beae-eounted for in that way. for It la hardly conceivable that anyone In normal rnrntal rendition would deliberately end life, aays the Chicago Tribune. The little rlrl of It yesrs who was "tired of life" Illustrates the pecullsrl lie of suicide. It Is hsrd to Imagine ' what reason for self-destructtoe eould ' have effected a Child of such age.- Aa old man or woman, wora out - by the burdn of years, slrk and helpless, Htnlsht think It kindness to relatives and friend (4 put themselves out of the way. . Rut the Instance of the little girl Indicates that It is .impossible to mske ' rule f suicide. The most unlikely reason ar liable l appear for self-de- trwcUo . "- . ; ' f Jjl ; I' J . V 1 ! ! W ll 30X .".Debutante'- 'Cream- -:J:ti'; J! ll.rW 5 4 , ' I A Sw& Colored Chiffon and " k - . i -w wvt nt i r r r- a r. lv - i- tati la a mw - i - : m ' pineapple gauss, with' delicate stripes and figure hi color upon It, and baa to be made up over an undersllp. - '. Jussl cloth I economical, for It trims Itaelf charmingly, requiring only a bit of ribbon here snd there. It haa a ceiv tain tlffn .hn.it It. t hli-li lm. parts to It that delicacy and irlnia wirh tulle possesses before It ha been crushed. And pineapple gnuse doe not have o be made' up over as good quality of silk as chiffon requires.. An article describing odd reasons for suicide mentions a. man In Pottsvllle. Pennsylvania, who cut his throat be cause hi wife did not furnish him with onions for dinner. s A farmer In Maine bought a new har row and when It did not work to hla satisfaction he picked It up and ran to a brook njr by. With the weight upon his shoulders. It was easy for him to drown whan he jumped In. - A pretty blonde In a Pennsylvania town killed herself because her -wet heart-dld-Tiol,cair"on, her at th time appointed. A LnVAngete girl shot herself be cause ahe gained toe much weight to suit her. -. - . , ..; A Pennaylvsnla boy,, who waa the only on of his sex jn the grsduatlng class tf ths-high school, loaded hla pockets with flatlrons and stone and drowned himself, because he wa too bashful to speak with the six girl mem ber of hla claaa. A Pittsburg wife swallowed ciroolia seid because ehs feared, her husband waa not suited with her poor cooking. Another newspsper, reviewing 10 eases '.of suicide during the present year, mentions motives for self destrvctloa approaching marriage of v 1 11 1J - - m - iwi - v V" . r Vi Xf - r A X. --.The princess frown shown In ngura-B has. in tna illustration, an appearance or great elaboration, but In the soft, creamy whiteness of ths sheer material of the gown the decoratlona of laoe merge like a cloud and the youthful expression of the .n-n la malntnlnnH - Square necks are a becoming to some young throat as round ones are to others. The square neck In the bodice a of thl gown la outlined with two rows or lace, ana tni aeooranon is repealed - DESTRUCTION son, jilting because of a hunchback, suspension from achooL- faar of -trial for arson, dread of aa operation for ap pendicitis, death of a sister, los of property In the' Ban Francisco' earth quake,, sulclds or a daughter, loss of fortune and ridicule, taunt of ' com panion, regret at having married, in ability to quit drinking, fear of car bunclea, fear -of hydrophobia,, loase at gambling, discontent because hair waa turning gray. Three caaea were ex plained because the victims wsre out of work, one becsuse no work could be obtained and one because a boy of 14 wa tired of work. Sometimes It seems aa If there was great carelessness sbout human life In America. Thousand view tbe burning of a negro, at the stake with no- com punction. Murderer fill the jail be cause) of the Jark of prosecution and punishment And these etran'ge and foolish reasons for self-destruction only emphasis th " same thing. Life l counted. ..of slight value by thousands of people. Such a state of affairs Is not creditable to modern civilisation. That the number. ef suicide I steadily Increasing "doe ,not m raurlng, Itfcer. . i" , l . .. . ., J. fV- In a bandorerth-Jitloll-er.l:.thi bustbot torn edge Just reaching to the top'of huh another panel of Insertion begins undsr the arm and runs down half wsy. The front Is ' a narrow embroidered panel outlined In lace, which is connect, ed with another long lace panel by ahort atr.na nf thf fnrm little rinla 'down the front . The lace panel on the side reaches from the shoulder to the top of the flounce. The prtnoes form of thl gown' is achieved by means of narrow tuck that begin at the bust and extend to below the hlpa. Insertion of lace from the top of the flounce run up half way Into the aklrt giving the effect' of panel above the flounce. ''' ' Above this flounce there Is a broad band of Oreek motives In lace and em broidery with groupe of pin tucks. ' A deep flounce of embroidery 1 finished with several Inch-wide ruffles of point d'ssprlt with a fancy pattsrn In the net. A very elaborate sleeve ha an outer portion of embroidery and an Inner on trimmed In panels. Three row of lac ruffles are aewed around the sleeve and com up In a point upon the outer aide. A large cuff I built of embroidery and lace. Almoat any sheer or soft material would make tip well in thla style of gown, and the trimmings might be ar ranged to suit the fancy and according to one's purse, taking care that the decora tions are youthful In character, since these have a wonderful' effect upon the expression of gown. ' A very delicate and youthful fabric I employed In mklng up the 'gown shown In Figure C. It I silk gans striped with .satin... It may be well to mention here that satin- stripes 'in dia phanous material are very popular, In deed The skirt In Figure C Is fulled on the waistband and has dart In It to Insure a good set It ha around -the bottom s,n ungathered flounce with another. Just like It and above It, aero H with lUifoe, Thorsau, Hawthorne, Lake Harris, B. Prince . Gown in YouthfuLSheerMaterU al Elaborated with Lace . and Tucka. " C Fluffy Gown of Striped' Gauze Showing. , Novel Arrangement, of -Flounce and Ruching. D Fetching Debutante' Gown of Marquiaatte Trimmed - with - Satin ' Fold, - Lac - and Em- . broidery. the hack Ilounce wncre insy the sides. All the flounce are headed by a ruchlng of the aame material. A girdle of soft . Trench faill silk 1 worn about the waist Shoulder Capa Of 1800 Revived, ' A gulmpe made of three rowa of Va lenciennes lace t" set In the round cut neck of the girlish bodice, Which Is col- MOST CELEBRATED PASSAGE It It It .: I I s that DME one ha asked for. the most -4ustly , celebrated paamge. in Eng Hah prose literature, . and a writer In Success Magaslne say thla 1 like asking for the most Justly oelebrated sort of fruit in the orchard. Thl, writer adda: "There are easily a score of equally worthy -passages, esch one making it especial ap peal .to a different mood of mind, - Rus kin's description of Turner's Slav ship atlafle our love for the majestlo color and motion of the sea-- DeQulncey's reverts on the Nebula In Orion carries sens of the vsstness and mystery of the sky. Pater' picturing of. the Shield of Hercules rebuilds for us th light and life of burled Kellaa. Swin burne's eulogy of Rosettl astounds us with th splendor and apeed of hi words. La CUUlenne' pros fancy, 'Th Twelve Well,' atlre our heart with th pre cious disquiet of old sorrows. - Victor Hugo' oration In Th Man Who Laugh awaken In ue the ennobling paaslon of humanity. Lincoln' 'Get tysburg Speech' hushes th soul with Its fin appeal to th heroio In th hesrt ef mn. , I might go on to mention Emerson, Diaphanous Materials, Trimmed With Transparent Lace, Duchr ings arid Bullies, Popular Fabrics inrlsaand aorna wun iao inriin wnn ether, aratn, run ttir or four nd rueMn,' A Uttle ruffla trlma each rowa of eatherinir -thread through Ida the front and edrea the aboulder alnglo atrip of ruohlng. It 1 euatomary eapa. These are a revival of the little to have lone threada of even lengthand ahoulder capa wnrn!n J06. when th after they have all been run their full Empire aty Ira were eatat)lhed by the length pull them together. thu Ineur KmprfK. Josephine; . tng a perfectly even and Quickly made Puffed eleeves have doepcuffeftnlahed niching. . ) ... with. two upper rnchtnga that turn up--- The pretty rose-petal rochlng la made' ward and two lower onea that turn ... by running the thread back and forth downward upon the aloeve. Thla terml- across the atrip to be gnthered In the natea In lace ruffle. - ahape of a serpentine braid. Thla glvea Two tow a of ruchlng are aewed up a very puffy, pretty ruchlng when the thw fldea of the dreee back, where theythread la drawn. ' 1 j make aneffectlva" finish, and "although Flowers for trimming purpoaee ea the front of the girdle is not trimmed so readily be made of bit of ribbons In thla manner ha back haa a ruohlng satin or chiffon. . The petals are not along the top and d,own . jhe ; middle, regular In alae and ahape and can be where It faster.. r - . . held together by scraps of green silk , A. town. of thla character might be overs eemed upon the outalde. - Flowera , . '.. Xt tAi I w ITK tissue' have thet bpfc.. ' finished around the aklrt with a Wall of-Troy design , carried out-In ruchlng, while satin or velvet ribbon would be pretty on the same worked -put In bias, fold or a frock ror an older gin. All gowns for debutsnies should af- feet girlish simplicity In style, and as soon a that aim. is lost stghtrofrths gown loses most of its charm. Figure D Is a charming example of a debutante's gown made up In a very popular thin material known, as mar quisette. The bodice' haa ("round neck with, a tucker of Irfce trimmed with bow across the front A flat berths of transparent lace elaborated with pompa dour ribbon and chenille embroidery is draped around the shoulder A bolero .effect .Is given bymeanspf Jwo pink aattn folds decorated with appliquea of lace and. -edged with a lace ruffle. This hangs over a bodice built of alternate bands of anlln and lace. The bodice. Is finished' with a wide girdle of silk em broidered in chenille. It fastens at the back. . " ' . ., . ' A double puff of chiffon form the sleeve, It Is made in aV ahape on the top of the arm, bordered by an embroid ered sntln band and with a fancy strap crossing the V. The plain skirt has' a seam In front and around lta lower portion are' four bands of pink satin, the first three of which are edged with ruffles of trans parent lace. These hang above a wide group of pin tucks that form the top of a flounce, which Is finished ardund the 'bottom by- a band of pink satin above lnce ruffle. " ,'. T While the color scheme of this gown In pal pink trimmed with cream-colored lace, it might be of white or of any be-, coming delicate tint Instead of banda. It 'Is very pretty, to trim ths skirt and bodice with fes toon qf flower made of liberty satin and chenille. - . - The home dressmaker Is often baffled In making up evening gowns by not knowing how to. fix the t; the trimmings. There are seversl styles of ruchlng in vogue. One way to fold the edges oviapplnc and run a gathering thread through the middle. Another fashion I to gather the upper edge of the atrip, leaving a wider frill on the lower aide. Other turn under a narrow edge on each aide and run the gathering thread on each edge. . Jeremy Tsylor. as well St Matthew, 'fit. John, Isalnh, Job and other peer In the. narllament of words. But I con tent myself with making the one .se lection that Is perhaps my favorite In most of my moods. I refer to that etately and sonorous passage from Car- Ivle's 'Sartor Ressrtus,' where he see history, a a stupendous procession, forth-Issuing f rora . Cimmerian , night and vanishing Into pathetic and fath omless alienee. Here ,ls the paasage: "'Like some wlld-flamlng, wlld-thun-derlng train of heaven artillery, doe thla mysterious mankind thunder and flame. In long-drawn, quick-succeeding frsndeur, through the unknown - deep, Ike a Oodcreated, nre-breathlne; aplrlt bost w emerge from the Inane; haste stormjly acroas the aatonlshed enrth; then plunge again Into the Inane. Karth'a mountains ar leveled, and ber sea filled up. In our passage; can th earth, whir 1 but dead and vision, resist spirit which have reality and are UlveT ' On the hardest adamant some footprint of us Is stamped In; the liat rear nf the hoat will read trace 'of th earliest van.' But whsnoeT O heaven, whltherT Senae knows not: faith knows not; only that It I through 'mtsterir to mystery, from God to Clod.'' .inianea in. iu. same material. Loops, ends and foliage for silk, and aattn flowera can be made of chenille and baby ribbon. Where large foliage I required for roaea, bit of green taf feta shirred on a thin wire In the center -form admirable roae leaves, far prettier for dresses than artificial, foliages. r new- Faquin-skirt - la - quite a smart upon the debutante as on women . of riper yeara. It la built on the linos of the modified Empire and is' narrower at the bottom than aklrta brought out by any other house In Paris. Indeei, . other house have not altered their aklrt' .', Btyies as to width.- They are somewhat more pointed In trains and are cut on the aarne Ilnea, showing a tendency to - corselet effect In Princess and Emplr tyle. ... , . . All ths leading house, however, uxs more trimming upon their skirts than "Paquln does.. HI skirts are built upon . simple, ollnglng. unadorned lines, roost elegant In appearance and moat baffling . to achieve. JOOEFA WILSON' OSBORN. Move- Your Bed t' V H I T Is a singular coincidence that earthquake area range from north to soul' so there are continually passing In the same direction health-. giving currents of electricity. Are you taking advantage of theae magnetic cur. rents f Many sufferers from "nerves" ere now hfntf cured h V mm. form at electrical - treatment- NAIready we- have I medical cabtneta. rheumatic rings and clectrte belts, aay Pearson's Weekly. ' An explanation of these msgnetlc our. '. rents will Interest " f The mariner' compans slways nolnls, j a we say, north and south. But that.'! north Is not exactly the north pole to , which Kanaen aspired to- reach. It Is the magnetic pole, and la situated a lit tie to the left of the real north pole.' . If a needle waa floating In water im mediately above this pole, then we should And that the position of the needle was an upright one. Apparently a gi gantic magnet la burled deep In the ground. A similar "dipping" of the needle would take place at the soulU magnetic pole; but the exact' position of this latter has not yet been definitely fixed. , , .r Now, between these magnetic area regular electrical currents run. They are not running in straight lines, because of the Immense amount of mineral ore hid den In ths earth. . Aa an example. It may be remembered by the reader that a terrible shipwreck took plsce some few yesrs ago In the bay of Biscay, The vessel ran on 'ths rocks owing to "th-ompHi belhgde- fleeted by the presence of magnetised ore in tne neighborhood of tbe coast Map ar published, showing ths direc tion and strength ef these currents. At Kew (soon to be.- If not now vacated) and other observatories, scientists are dally taking "mugnetogrsphs." These are photographs of a beam of light from' a mirror attached to a magnet. If th light acting on a strip of sen. sltlvo paper (wrapped round a revolv ing drum) comes out ss a strslsht line. TOien no change Has Taken place. If the line IB "wavy," magnetlo . dlsturbanre has taken place, and by comparing dif ferent records a line Is drawn on th magnetic map. In the Isle of Wight the "sslsmograph" registers on a strip of paper the dlreo tlnn and time any earthquake shock however slight .In character. It waa by this Instrument that the earth storm In South America were found to have moved the land of Europe slightly. When the earth la troubled magnetic- ' aUywJhunder storms, sheet lightning and the fin spectacle of the aurora borealls or northern light" "are among the vl- Ible effscts. ,. When sleeping. It I advisable to have our beds faring th south. We are then In the direct line of any refreshing in fluences of nature. Perhaps the Indian recognised this fact unconsciously when he wrapped himself up In his skin rug on the prairie, with hi head to th north tar. Treatment ef Weak Wrist ' Not very long ago a well-known schoolmaster declared of a highly prom lslng pupil that he would never be able' to write well on account of hla wrist being too weak. This sondltlon is by no mean rare. For the benefit of such sufferer th following hint are given: During two full minute, night and ' morning, let th cold water tap run with soms fore on th affected part. Dry thoroughly and then nss friction with soft towel, alwaya rubbing from th hand toward the elbow. Th best sxsrolse for strengthening the wrist I fencing with folia Another excellent plnn, when the wrist haa become stronger, I to fac a companion. Inter lock th finger of your right hand with . thoa of hi right hand, and to try to ao fore hi wrist down that if tha ef fort la successful he sinks te th floor. '. V.