Image provided by: University of Oregon Libraries; Eugene, OR
About The Oregon daily journal. (Portland, Or.) 1902-1972 | View Entire Issue (Dec. 25, 1904)
1 PEOPLE ask ma to talk to thorn about furs And films and furbe lows. Tbo latter are always dear to a woman's heart, and the furs, like fine Jewels, forever a matter of pride and pleasure. I think I will talk about furs first, be cause that is such a snug, warm subject for a cold day, and, I might mention, a subject that always represents a snug sum Certain furs, like diamonds, are al ways fashionable. Take, for Instance, baby lamb and sable, which one might say almost never go Out of mode. Although there are standard furs which It la always good taste to wear, each season Introduces some fad in fur which most of those who can afford ex pensive fads follow. Last season the fad was for moleskin, and this season the extreme fashionable novelty is mixed fur, with a fad for Imi tation sealskin. This fur Is much pret tlsr than real seal, but I do not know from what animal It la taken. Smart fur mixtures are ermine with black fox. ermtae and sealskin, chin chilla with sealskin, and even ermine with sable, although mingling these two fine furs seems Ilka "gliding refined gold." Capes and stoles, both large and small, are worn with a fancy for ahorfohouider rapes and long three-quarter length ones. These last are very smart tola year, es pecially in seal or sable, and are worn by women over their smarter gowns when going to teas or some such form of en tertainment While shoulder capes sre both stylish and useful, they are not as practical aa those which come to the waist. Ilka the one of black lynx fur Illustrated In Fig. A. Thla really somes a trifle below the waist and furnishes additional warmth In the two long and wide stoles which finish It. One can easily fancy what a cosy carriage wrap thia la, and how eas ily its large, flat collar could be turned up on a cold day to protect the ears. Perhapa even smarter than oapes that follow the lines of the figure are Im mense stoles that can be wrapped about one or thrown loosely across the shoul ders at win These reach from neck to waist In the back and hang almost and sometime quiteto the hem of th skirt In front. A Little Fashionable Secret of fun. The one shown in Fig. B Is of mole skin, dyed black, and la therefore not moleskin by a process of reaaontng known to fashionable folk and very fetching. The ends of this stole are drawn together and trimmed with hand some braid ornaments. The muff which accompanies this is a great, big square thing, hung around the neck by long rlbbona. The ribbon causes the muff to crush along the top in that fashionable shape known as the "pillow muff." though when sny one ever saw a pillow In that shape I cannot fancy. Hats f i equently match neckpieces and muffs and often exhibit on fu trimmed with another. Th fad for trimming one fur with an other shown In Fig. C, a little flat boa of enrilne with tips of seal. Still another popular combination 1 shown in Fig. D, a long and only medium wide stol of sable, with points of er mine snd tail of th same axqulslt fur. Th larg muff which match this boa has item I no around its open ends. The perfectly flat style of this neck piece Is In contrast to th round and fluffy boa Of lynx Illustrated in Fig. E, and Which Is quit abort, terminating In a round, busby tall. Th ultra-faahlonabl fur and ths ultra-fashionable films, stoles and elab orate neck wrap of chiffon and other fancy fabrics are not aa much worn aa they have been In aeasona past The elaborate wrap of today demand great er simplicity in neckwear hjr way of con trast The exception to thla rule . la to be found la th lac scarfs which are thrown around the neck and shoulders in the evening, and' which prove so flatter ing and becoming to a woman's face. Women have for some month past l.en discovering how much prettier they look In s soft white tucker of lac than in ny other finish to th nsok. For this reason most smart gowns sf finished with a lac collar or yoke, quite trans parent and unusually flattering to tbo skin. Such a yoke effect la shown In Fig. F, and in this cue the garniture -ie Intended to be worn ovr a bodice which must necessarily be quit simple In order to support such an elaboration. This yoke piece ha a stock, small squar back and deep ahleld-ahaped front formed of a combination of very fine embroidery and luce Pointed edges of embroidery are trimmed wltb lac ruf fles. A lovely shaped piece of lace curves from th stock and follow the lines of th embroidered front to a narrow scal lop at th bottom. Th necks of gowns are so charmingly elaborated that a great many thlnga are worn without any furbelow whatever around the neck, the coat or wrap being so out that the dresa yoke form a fin ish. In cases like this a coat la mads without any collar or with a flat on. A Word About the Pllms of Tells. Of course, where a woman must wear a collar, one Of embroidered linen, turned over and worn with a smartly tied bow of Mack, la la the best taste. Such a collar la illustrated in Fig. I. Berthas and flchua of lace and other bowllderlngly dainty, diaphanous mate rials no longer float about the ahouldera of th amartly gowned woman. Even Jabots are relegated to the use of old ladiea, and new fashlona In dress demand new neckwear accompanlmenta. Vella, too, have gone the way of other airy nothings of the toilette. They have literally bean don to death, so that It la now bad style to wear on. We bore with them aa they grew and grew until they reached our feet, but whan thay threatened to trail behind ua we rebelled and caat them off. A smart now collar that la being worn over coata is so new in cut as to prof something of a novelty in laoa It la well illustrated In Fig. O, where Its pe culiar out shows to advantage. It has a deep curve in front, dlacloslng well th neck finish of th gown over which It I worn, and haa two points in th back, joined together at the top; two deep, square points over the elbowa, and vary deep on in front, extending a foot or more below th waist Una Thla collar la mad of Valenciennes lace. In a larg pattern of roses. Inset with larg medal lions of Irish crochet lace. In a very open design, and with a wlds. Irregular bor der of the same lace. It la Just the aort of accessory to give a vry smart ap pearance to the garment over which it may be worn. Th most usual form of tucker is hown in Fig. H. a aimpl little thing of Valenciennes lac with a tiny frill on th edge. Thla stjjle of tucker appears slthsr round, squar or pointed, accord ing to the cut of th bodice worn over It. On may have these quaint little 1830 tuckers made of any smart kind of lace or embroidery, or thay may be fashioned of tucked chiffon or aome similar dlaph anoua material. JTrwest, Smartest Hot About Jewels. Along with changea In neckwear we have new fancies In belts and buckles. The smart belt of today la a wide caln turo of draped character or a wide belt of leather, according to tha material of the gown with which the belt 1 worrl. Where buckles ara worn they ar very large and quit aimpl In style In height three and four lncbea represent the correct sis of buckle, and In atyla frames of Jewels or broad frames of plain gold ar smartest. Indeed, for plain belts the aimpl gold buckles ara almost exclusively th kind In use. Dog collar and chains have had their day and ar seldom worn. They hav given place to necklets and pendant a of jewel artistically arranged, usually in quite an elaborate design in front, and held around the neck by a single row of jewel or a slender chain of gold, allver or platinum. Fig. M. for Instance. Illustrate a popular form of ncklt. It ts of green jade, In a rich shade of streaked green. In round and oval stones, connected by slender chains of platinum Other jew el ar arranged In th earn fashion, and also In th style shown In Fig. I,, a necklet of amethyst In several alses, connected by slender platinum or sliver cits Ins In Fig. J I shown a smart buekl of plain gold, and In Fig. K on otlrlllfant with decoration formed of cluster of the earn stones in th shape of rosea, THE OREGON SUNDAY JOURNAL, PORTLAND, SUNDAY (D A Strlith Cap of black lynx, with large, shaped stole. B Large stole in tha newest, smart est cut. C retching small, flat boa of er mine tipped with seal. D Long stole of sable, lined with Si berian squirrel and tipped with ermine. E Round neck piece of lynx with bushy tail. F Smart ontaide yoke of two ma terials, lace and em broidery to be worn over a bodice. O Smartly shaped collar of two kinds of lace to be worn over a coat, H Fetching lit tie 1830 tucker, used in some form with nearly every dress. I Chic collar of embroidered linen with bow. J Belt buckle of plain gold. K Elaborate rhineatone buckle for dree wear. L Necklet of amethysts. M Small necklet of green jade. N Bowknot of rhinastones or dia monds with pearl pendants. , Decorative ornaments Of Jewels tend more to light and airy shapes In design thsn to solid effects. In this respect a good example la shown In Fig. N, a dstnty bowknot and twist, done m allver snd small brilliants, with a ball-shaped pendant from which hanga a luatrous pear-shaped pearl. r Such pattern as tha do not ncea- aarllv. lay down a rule to fellow, but they show that delicacy of outline and h-Ha "J,.. " the fun nf tn Mnson. A very pronounced rogue .exists for th wearing of bracelets. Indeed, it may be said to bar reached th extent of a MORNING, DECEMBER ran i 6 "eras." Every on not on or two. but lm. nd .v ,J,, trmn fol This bracelet crass wa. Introduced by . . 7T ... ort n.a thr-nuartcr sleeve which seemed to suggest tha need of soma sort of decoration for tha arm be M, ltOt Mixed furs the extreme new novelty of the season. Immensely long and wide stoles a fad in furs. Little flat stoles smart by way of contrast. Long and snort fur capes come into style again. Filmy lace scarfs and tuckers for tke neck so very modish. Imitation sealskin quite the newest smart note in fur. .,.-, t ween th termination of th alv and th wrist Bracelets do not take on the big, solid forma that we remember In years paat. They are moatly alender tine of jewel linked together, and glitter in a vivid maaa of partl-colored light from an un obtrusive setting. Together with bracelets, earrings have come into style again, and, what la more, th bigger th earring the smarter It la Wa may com to a revival of th time when earrings war so large and heavy that thay almost pulled their way through th lob of th ear, and. any way, caused a disfiguring hole there. Thla I distinctly a season of Jewel, when a woman may, if ah chooses, wear (By Winifred Black.) (Copyrlgbt, 1904, by W. R. Hearst.) ONRTANCY unshaken. Olrl wtf searches city for hus band who haa twice cruelly deserted her Beautiful de votion of young mother." That's what th head line said. I wonder If all thla sentimental sym pathy for the woman who drags a sick little baby from town to town looking for a man whoa one aim la life la to get rid of her Is a good thing The books Of th charitable societies are til 1ml with th names of woman who ar wandarlng from otty to eity. sick, heart-broken, hungry, trying to And men who hav deserted them once snd who will desert them again at th vary first opportunity. I once asked a Salvation Army worker about a woman , In whose hard case a friend of mine was Interested, is her husband dead?" I asked. "No." said th Salvation Army woman, "he's intermittent." And I learned that tha intermittent husband Is a regular featur of life among th unfortunate. H usually belongs to some womsn who go out scrubbing or wsshlng by the day. He stays at homo as long aa the wife ts able to work to support him. The moment she shows signs of Illness he disappears. When the baby la old enough to be left with a neighbor th Intermittent husband come home again. I know a little stenographer who loses position after position because her drunken husband Instate oa oomtng to sny office where ehe is employed and making trouble. He is a strong able-bodied man. bat she supports him. I have heard her friends speak of her "beautiful devo tion," ' J. I am juat hard hearted enough to think that such devotion as that is any thing but beautiful. It la hideous, un natural and revolting to any sane, healthy mind. I once went to tell a woman that her little daughter had been arrested-for setting fire to houass "just for fun." I had to run for my llf to get awsy frorn an Iman man, who turned out to be the woman's husband. Me had bees all she possesses without creating any specially unfavorable comment upon her good taste. Jeweled ornaments for th corsage, bracelets, elaborate nckleta and earrings all land themselves to make a woman In full dress look aa attractive and brilliant as a Jeweler' window on a gala day. While Jewels ar also worn In th hair. It Is smarter at present to wear flowara as decorations for th coiffure. Flow era are always a becoming form of hair ornaments, both to old and young, and they harmonise wall with tha flower painted and flower-trimmed dresses of the season. JOSRFA WILSON OSBORlf. crazy for year, and with 'beautiful de votion" she was hiding him in th house to keep him away from th authorities. The girl who was sotting th fires waa th fifth ohlld born to that woman alnc her husband had been hopelessly Insane. And then th authorities held that little girl responsible for her par ticular form of insanity. I don't pity thst woman at all. She sacrificed hr little helpless children to a silly idea of "devotion" and had a beautiful time being a "martyr," whil her bablas were terrified and stunned and given a heritage of horror. Out upon such devotion. Th world is full of it. and It is made up for the most part of simple force of habit. A weak-minded woman becomes hyp notised by th suggestions of love when she is young and Impressionable, and she haan't sense enough to throw off the spell, that'a all. She's walking in her aieep all the time. I believe in waking her up. Th next time a woman comes to you for help to trace down a runaway hus band, try to show her that tha farther h run th hotter off ah and her chil dren will be. Talk her out of a certain small-minded determination to "get even" by making a man who la tired of her take car of her. That la at the bottom of many of theae cases of "de votion." "I know ray husband wants to get rid of me," said a woman to mo once. "I'll fool htm. I'll stick to him till ha die." She did, hounding him till he went out Into th stable and killed himself. Than she went Into mourning, and wore it most becomingly for the rt of her widowhood which didn't laat long. Whenever I read about one of the "devoted" women I burn to take her by th ear, turn her face the other way and wake her up to a brand new, clean, use ful, self-respecting llf. There's room enough and joy enough and work enough in this world for every honest woman In It. Wake up from your hypnotic trance. "devotd" woman. Boxcar Bobby Mow long d' yr a'pos it'a been since Dusty Dan took a bath? Tlepaas Tim Well, he looks tar be About 48 years eleV dsvsland Leader.