Image provided by: University of Oregon Libraries; Eugene, OR
About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Oct. 22, 1922)
THE. SUNDAY OREGONIAX, PORTLAND, OCTOBER 22, 1923 7, GINGHAM USED THIS YEAR FOR BEDROOM CURTAINS Small Checked Material in Color to Be Used Elsewhere in Room Is Declared to Be Most Suitable. BY CLOT1LDE. IT SEEMS as though gingham has never been chosen for' so many purposes as it has this year; and one of the attractive uses for it is for bednoom curtains. Small checked gingham in the color to be used in the room is beat. It should not be necessary to shrink it first; but re member there is considerable shrinkage and allow for it in cut ting and making. One width of the gingham will be right for the curtains, and the front edges and across the bottom are finished with straight gathered ruffles of the same material. The edge of the ruffles may be hemmed on the machine, using the narrow hemmer; allow once and a half the plain length for the ruffle fullness. These ruffles are set on without any heading, being finished with a narrow facing, stitched on the right side of the curtains, covering the seam. A narrow strap of gingham with a ruffle about one and one-half inches wide set into the lower edge of the strap makes a most attrac tive finish. Of course, one may make a deep valance to go across the top of the window, coming down Problems f DrosmakiriX . , v.. MoHamDirkoT- . (Continued From First Page, you can match and copy the dress shown in the Pictorial Review, fail quarterly, page 25, No. 1030. The en tire frock should be of your lovely material and beaded in the steel and jet. The waist can have an allover design which will bead and cover rapidly. T"he narrow girdle I would have of the material, following the simple design shown. This, model will certainly give you length. If you cannot match your material then try to match in a canton crepe and bead as above suggested. HAINES. Or., Sept. 28. Dear Madam Ricbet: I have a peacock blue crepe de chlno dress made like the enclosed picture. I would like to make it over for a party dress for my 14-year-old daughter. Would you please advise me how to make it and what to trim it with? HAINES. Haines, Haines, Or.: Some inter-. ruption caused you to send an un- j finished letter, but I shall hope ! that the following information will , be of help to you. ; Have the skirt straight and full and join at the low waist line with I the full bloused waist whose round neck holds the gathers, both in front and back. The drop shoulder line covers the shoulder and ex treme upper arm and should be cut with & large arm size. The neck line, armhole and the two-inch belt should be of the crystal beads with the iridescent shades playing through their miniature globe. On either side the girdle have the strap two inches wide by ten long, fin ished with the beaded fringe. This will make a most attractive frock. Make as slipover or fasten down the back. G. L. M.. Centralist. Wash.- gret my error and trust you are not weary in waiting, .no. ;,S43. page 16 appeared in the Butterick Quarterly I for fall, as does the blouse numbered 3S39. Wilh the many loiters I have to iisvver I do not recall the plan of ac coat you mention. However. his suggestion may help you. There is the- added band at the bottom edge in the same or contrasting shadn which when richly braided not only lengthens but adds style to (he garment. Also there can be the band of joining between the blouse and skirt treated in the same man ner and therefore adding length. RIDGEFIELD, Wash.. Sept. 23. Dear Mttdam Richet: I would like your heip in selecting a pattern for a dress for a 12-year-old girl, something suitable for school wear, i would also like some sug gestions for a dress (gingham) for a 14-year-oM girl who is vtry large for her hzfi. She i 44 Inches bt't aii'l 3. inches itrcUie! waist and is ;.-ui Thc-piiiiii; you, 1 it;'.i. Mis. K. K. ,'Yl'f r. liidgcfield, Wash. In the Child! en's Kuyal for j a,utum .there, aro many pretty j over the curtains or not, just as one chooses. Unbleached muslin makes won derfully attractive curtains, too. The hems down the front and across the bottom are turned up on the right side and the corner at the bottom is mitred. Then cut strips of per cale, gingham, chambray or calico In lengths three or three and one half inches wide. Choose a solid color, matching the color that pre dominates in the room. The strip is set on the curtain so that one edge just covers the stitch lng of the curtain hem and, of course, the corner must be mitred. It is also necessary to turn in both edges of the strip go that the band will be perfectly even everywhere. This strip is stitehe4 on both edges to the curtain and the strap to hold the curtain back is of the color. A rather deep box plaited val- ance should be made to go across the top, and a trimming band sutcnea across top and bottom, al lowing a one-inch hem of the mus lin to show. Instead of putting these valances on rods, they are usually tacked to a piece of board, and the board fastened to the window frame by using rings and nooks. styles, among them a model which w'U make up . splendidly for the gingham. Kindly see pr.ge 25, No. 1677. Combine with a blue or yel low in a plain field for th- contrast ing portions. If yon cannot obtain the mentioned issue in your city, send to Portland for one. Any book store or news stand will secure a copy for you,. If you do not care to take the time for the mailing, then I would suggest the dress shown cn page 32. No. 3926. The cuffd and collar should be of the blue or yel low to match the. check found n the material you have. For the older daughter there is a style in the same issue which will be kind in the length-giving line, page 42, No. 3768. The many broken lines will aetract trom the bust li..e, and be sure that you have stripei in length wise line, and no check or plaid which always add to one's size. A , linen tan combined with the rrs.i.h hlue WU be a pleasing combination, Eliminate the band at the bottom, as it will cut the skirt length, which your daughter requires, M EIiFORD, Or., Sept. 28 Dear Am enclnnlnir n nlon nf Madam Richet: goods of an old narrow skirt. By turning ; nave me stripes running up and down. As I have found It impossi ble to match it in I'ortland or Medf..rd. .vhat would jou combine with it to make a combination dress? 1 have dark brown hair, brown eves. .Yc.gn 127 pounds, height five feet four inches. T: anking you in advance. ANASTOS1A. Anastasia, Medford, ' Or.: Your material is beautiful and the cut velvets in stripes and brocades are very good 'style this season. It would seem to me a splendid plan to combine it with a tomato shade of satin, following the lone waist. ! and if you have sufficient gray ma- i tenai me ratner tight sleeve of the new material would be stunnine- ,it, j ., r, 'th a. a"d "arinS cuff of the old. A band of the gray followine the square outline of the neck with the two-inch band run, in continued line down the left side front in Russian line would make a really fetching frock and one of unusual interest because of the fabric in the skirt and blouse trim. Wear at a low waist line the gray and to mato cords, entwined in the turban idea, and let the ends be finished with the long silk tassel. PORTLAND, Sept. 18. Dear Madam Richet: I have a plain sport 2 yards wide and 38 inches long, like the in closed sample. ; Will you kindly suggest something to combine with It. or would It be better to dye It another collar first? Would like to use it for an afternoon dress. Also please suggest a suitable winter dress for church and afternoon wear. Am i feet 3 Inches, weigh 138 pounds gray hair, blue eyes, aged .12 vears Uratefuily yours, MRS. X. A S Airs. .. A Your material is far too .attractive us it is to chance by dyeing and, too, the plum, purple and periwinkle are very favored la the color world this season. I woul5 have you combine your satin with a French serge of the same shade, the blouse of the new ma terial to be slightly bloused and the skirt not more than one and three-quarters wide. The featured line should fall to the three-inch straps of the serge placed six inches above the normal waistline and per mitted to line the skirt front sides and end with a loop under te skirt's bottom edge. The back should also have this trim. And then, as a very fetching touch, braid strips of your silk, the piece removed from the skirt. with strands of steel stray chenille, let-1 ting this combination form a rope like girdle, ending at the right side with a rosette and many ends of the chenille. Bead the panel strips of sergj with the steel beads, select ing a well-covering pattern. The sleeves should be in the rather close fitting and edged with the trimming as used on straps. If you will fol low suggestion here given you will have a very pretty dress. A frock which should become one of you height will be found in the McCalls for October, page 71, No. ooto -rvi t.TMima - with the vest of the ecru or the Irish lace, now so in vogue, will make a pleasing frock. A blue or a fir' green will look well and the ornament of gun- metal. CAMAS. Wash., Sept. 27. Dear Madam Richet: Can you suggest a pattern for one-piece tricotine drees? Would like something in henna for trimming. Am 35 ;ears old, 5 feet 6 inches tall, gray eye?, rather pale complexion. Also pat tern, for girl 12 years, old tor siik arets. Thanking you. MRS. J. F: H. Mrs. J. F. H., Camas, Wasn.: There are so many attractive styles for the tricotine frock that it is dif ficult to make a final choice, put for a type which will meet the gen eral wear that such a dress does I shall ask , your to see the model on page 19, No. 3662, and on page 22, 34C". The first named can have the henna sleeves and collar - with a scroll design done in the blue rope silk. The second named, collar and hand work in "the henna rope silk, worsted or chenille. These are attractive types and will be serviceable as well. Both will be found in the Butterick quarterly for fall. The dress for the young lady has a model worth copying in the Children's Koyal for autumn, page 25, No. 1681. The blue crepe de chine with the banding at edge3 in the red taffeta or canton will be very effective and youthful. In the event that you cannot get the issue just mentioned see the model in the book wherjn you will find yours, page 56, No. 3656. The dress of the blue crepa de chine, the bands which trim the front of the led broadcloth and the handwork in the blue to match the crepe selected. LOMBARD, Or., Sept. 26. Dear Madam Richet: I am 5 feet 3 inches tall, weigh 115 pounds, have brown hair and eyes and medium complexion. I have an accordion-plaited skirt like enclosed sample which -I have worn with a geor gette overblouse of same shade. Will accordion plaits be worn this fall ? The blouse is plain, scallops around lower edge, with black stitching around neck, sleeves and lower edge. What would you suggest for a change- Have sev eral small pieces of material that might be used with something else for a blouse, but could not think of any color that would combine with this. I find your column very Interesting avid helpful. Sincerely, MRS. E. H. S Mrs. E. H. S., Lombard, Or.: Your material is such a very vivid red andj I am wondering if perhaps the happiest change would not . be found in dying. A fir green or a copper shade would be pretty for this season. Rip your skirt, should you follow the suggestion for dying, and then with the result of straight pieces combine with a canton crepe for the sleeves and the underarm. Should you use the green in the dress, then combine with a fawn shade, and if the copper wins your fancy let the waist be of old blue. A charming model for the remodel ing of your skirt will be, found in the McCalls fall quarterly, page 36, No. 2804. The sleeves need not have the slit as shown, but made with the closed line. NEV7PORT. Or., Sept. 10 Dead Madam RicV.et: i have a green, dress like the enclosed sample of plain green mate rial. The dress is made like the eu closed sketch and measures 139 inches around the bottom and is 39 inches in length from the bottom .of the yoke to the bottom of the skirt. By combining it with the mixed material, like the enclosed sample, I wish to make a ma ternity dress. I can get as much of the mixed material, which ia 54 inches wide', as will be necessary to combine .vith tlie plain green. Can you suggest some way of making a becoming dress with these materials? I am 5 v feet 5 !i-ches in height, weigh 128 pounds, have "light brown hair, fair skin and ului eyes. A BUSY MOTHER. . A Busy Mother. Newport, Or.: The shade of your material is good, but I wish it were softer In texture as the maternity gown requires the materials which produce the easier line. In th Butterick quarterly for thf fall you will find on page 34, No. 3597, a very pleasing model and I am sure that with the material you have in the green you will re quire little if any of the new as sample enclosed. Make the collar and the skirt's facings of the black charmeuse satin. ' The upper skirt made with the gathers will, as well as the drop, permit a comfortable line and a neater appearance. The sleeve should be a bit wider than the one shown in the picture if you would enjoy more arm freedom. f HER1DAN, Or.. Sept. 2Tc Dear Maiam Richet: Your department is very helpful to so many so I am coming for your suggestions. I have a blouse like No. 1 that is like. new but I have had it four years and after wearing every year for so lonip I am tired of it. Then I have a dress like No. 2. The checks in it are 3S& Inches square. The skirt is 1 widths of 40-inch ma terliil gathered ona belting. The waist is likn picture, without collar and cuffs, I wear a lace front in it. i V. ill It' be proper to combine No. 1 and No 2, using the waist of No. 2? I would like to use the skirt from No. 2 as it is, because next summer I can remove it from the dress and use it for a sport skirt. I am five feet three inches in height and very slender. My weight is 107 pounds, waist 24 inches, hip 37 and bust 32. , Any suggestions you offer will be ap preciated. YOUNG HOUSEWIFE. Young Housewife, Sheridan, Or.: You have in some way made a mistake in the number of pattern or page and so I shall suggest the model shown in the same book on page 11. No. 3856. The vest and collar should be of the blue and the edges, following the vest, out lined in the blue to match the skirt If this does not please you write again with the correction made In number or page. PORTLAND, Sept. 21. Dear Madam Richet: Please suggest pattern and trim ming for an Afternoon dress. I have 3 yards. 56 inches wide, navy serge. Am 30 years old, medium brown hair, gray eyes, weigh 135 pounds, height 5 feet 8 inches, waist 28. hips 36, bust 38, with a medium amount of color. Thanking you, PERPLEXED. Perrlexed You will not be per plexed when you turn to the model I have in mind fo' you. Tou may have to face the skirt, as the yard age required is a fourth yard more than jou have. Combine with the black satin and black soutache or the rich cherry red and the braid to match. See the October Elite, page 33. No. 4257-D. Note1 Nos. 1 and 2 answered in recent issue. ' Dear Madam Richet: No. 3 is a skirt, seven gores, style of 1903, 38 inches in length in front, 41 inches back, three yards and 20 inches around bottom, and 1 22 inches .t top. Had thought of For whatever occasion you are dressed you can forget the cold of a winter's day in this underwear Knit underwear fashions of today are in almost startling contrast to the days of our grandmothers, when we put on our "winter flannels" in Novem ber, and on they stayed right straight through to the end of May! Carter's Knit Underwear has followed every changing fashion. There is not a fashion or a material, for daytime or for evening wear, for which you cannot find the correct style in Carter's. The original of each style of Carter's Knit Underwear is cut and tried on, just exactly the same as the clothes made by your own dressmaker are cut and tried on. Not tried on dummy iigures, but on living models. The final result is an under garment as near perfection in fitting as it can possibly be made. It is this superiority of work-, manship and material that makes Carter's Knit Underwear an economy in the very fullest sense of the word. Correct cut is not alone responsible for the re markable fit of Carter's Knit Underwear. The cloth is specially knit to make it remarkably elastic, so that you never feel it pulling or binding, and it springs back into form instantly, so it never becomes loose and baggy. And its feeling of silky softness lasts as long as the underwear lasts, no matter how frequently you wash jt. At good stores everywhere you can get Carter's Knit Underwear, in styles for women, men, children and infants; in all weights of cotton, cotton and wool, wool, silk and wool, and silk. THE WILLIAM CARTER COMPANY Home Office: Needham Heights (Boston District) Mills also at Framingham and Springfield, Mass. Garter1 IKL US. PAT. OTP. dress No. 1110, page 12, Pictorial quar trly for autumn. Could it be used for this? There are some other pieces which could use. No. 4 The cloth is in two pieces, front 33 inches long, HO inches wide at too. 31 Inches wide at bottom; back 32 long, 23 wide at top, 30 at bottom. Have several pieces like material; had started to make -it up. 1 thought of using! hlnclr hAnille tn embroider front and I hack to hide piecing. Velveteen cifmes below waist. No. 0 The check is a skirt: bought tht black to combine with it. Planned to use tight sleeve with turn-back cuff and collar of the check. Would it add to the dress to pipe or bind edges of collar, cuffs, neck opening with the red or green? How should skirt be joined to long waist for better finish? What kind of buttons? ECONOMY. ,. . turi h th. remiPRT fnr cuuiiuiuj . . .-. - the planning'-of . eight dresses you will readily realize matoniusuce to the other readers the required space could not be given in one issue. In a recent number of The Oregonian I answered the first two, which I trust you have found help ful. Today's installment will deal with Nos. 3, 4 and 5. The model to wtiich you refer is splendid, but would you not find more use for your dress if it were of another color rather than white? The frock would be most effective in a tomato shade trimmed in front with the black rope silk of the jet beads. The dress would seem in better taste in a darker shade, as the lines are rather tailored for the material as it now Is, whereas the darker color will produce a better scheme all the way through. Your Samples for No. 4 are far too nice to spoil with a pieced-out dress rather than one with a defi nite plan, and so I shall ask you to consider having the skirt of your broadcloth and the long blouse of velvet matching your . sample of Burgundy shade. If. you cannot match, then combine with a printed crepe, using the velvet for the cuff trim, buttons and strap girdle. With the width you have in your skirt and the other pieces you mention as having I feel sura that you can copy the model pictured in the issue above mentioned on page 25, No. 1030. If you do not care for fur ther purchase, then endeavor to use your materials after this frock, keeping a "cleaner" line of com binations is indicated by your letter. Your plan for the making of the checked and black combination is splendid and the model chosen is in ; excellent keeping .with, the materials Your children will never com plain that Carter' Knit Un derwear "prickles." Made of yarns as soft as fleece, and thoroughly washed and ster ilized before it leaves the fac tory. The standard Carter vest for little babies, is chosen by millions of mothers. S knit Underwear FOR ALL THE FAMILY you have. It Is always a pleasure to see the interested readers of this department showing by their sam ples and inclosed styles of dress the proper relationship twixt fabric and line, season and color. Use the red for the buttons, collar and cuffs, also the strip girdle. The joining seam will be neatest with a fin ished ipiped line on the skirt mounted and stitched over the long blouse whose edge continues for an inch below the stitching on the under side. NAPA VINE, Wash., Sept. 25. Dear Madam Richet: I. have a blue poplin suit like sample enclosed. . The jacket is made like the picture, only the bottom of the. jacket is in three separate pieces joined to the upper part with a two Inch belt. The skirt ia cut in three pieces, 'fitting snugly around the walat and quite full around the bottom. Can jou please suggest some way it could be mSh into a one-piece dress? What material would combine nicely with It? 1 am 5 feet 6 inches tall, weigh 145 pounds, 30-inch waist, 38 bust, medium brown hair, blue eyes. -1 also have five yards of the blue taf feta and two yards of tan taffeta, both 3ft inches wide, like sample enclosed. Would the two be all right to combine and will you select a way I could have them made up? MRS. H. Mrs. H., Napavine, Wash.: Use for the narrow rippled panels the black satin. , Should you fancy the sleeve shewn you will have plenty of ma terial' to copy. Be sure and work out the scheme of trimming, using the brafd and atjn band. - The front can ' be closed," "covering the opening with the satin band and the braiding at th,e sides. See Style for October, page 13, No. S 6211. There are many styles which I would rather suggest, for they have several interesting features, but you are "short" the required yard age and so for a very pretty and serviceable dress made with the blue and the tan combination I shall ask you to see the Pictorial Review fall quarterly, page 38, No. 1262. Use your tan for the collar, vest, cuffa and facings. Edge the collar and ouffs as shown- with, a-l blue rope silk matching the blue taffeta.' CAN BY, Or., Sept. 4. Deaer Madam Richet: I wish to get two waist' to wear with suit like sample, waists to be made of silk or woolen goods. What would you advise? Am 89 years old, S feet 4 inches tall, bust 38 inches, waist 27 inches, dark complexion and hair, no color. ' . 1 .would like t make over a- trowa suit like sample into one-piece dress. It baa two-piece skirt, rather full, tlght fittibg jacket, flares below waistline. I will get the color of goods you advise. Can you picture a dress for me to wear for evening in elbow-lengtb. sleeves, rather high neck line. Also advise me as to shoes. Thankfully yours, CONSTANT READER. Constant Reader, Canby, Or.: For th waists to wear with your mixed jersey skirt why not have the tan canton matching the copper-tan in the weave and a blue crepe de chine matching the blue. Make them in the slipover type, the tan quite tailored and the blue with the Rus sian cross stitch done in the black, red, green and blue worsteds. Make the latter with the drop shoulder line and a rather wide armhole. The tar made after the model in page 48. No. 3662, and the blue following the blouse on page 46, No. 3839. Your brown material will make a pretty frock in combination with a black satin letting the latter fea ture the front of the blouse em broidered in brown and black rope silk. Follow the band trim as shown on the model, page 8, No. 3800. You will readily see the possi bility for your dress for the added front will permit of more fullness and the bloused line. The collar can be of the material or the satin. The three models above numbered will be found in the Butterick Quar terly for the fall. For the- evening dress I would have you copy the model shown in the McCall's quarterly for fall, page 37, No. 2795. With the copper-orange shade and the black- lace drape I am sure you will find color re flected to your face. The black net beaded 'n the jet would also be ef fective. The sleeve trim which con sists of the added scarf line can be eliminated if you desire just the plain elbow sleeve. I hope the sug gestions will please you and prove the thing desired. As for the shoes I suppose you mean that pair which will be worn with the evening dress. Black satin pumps and the black silk hose will be the proper thing. The Spanish heel is popular and comfortable. BEND, Or. Dear Madam Richet: I am wondering how I can remodel this dress a very good black taffeta is the ma terial. It is made like the inclosed dia gram. It is made on a Japanese silk foundation. I hope there ia some way to untilize these many ruffles. I do not care for the square neck it that can I r:i Urn Mm urn mm mM Whether you like your underwear with long sleeves or short, or no sleeves at all with high neck, or Dutch neck ankle length or knee length you can find your favorite style among the extensive variety of Carter models. Order your sea eon's supply for all the family. . woman and need the dress for afternoon wear. I am 5 feet 7 inches tall; weight 150, bust 40, hips 43, long waist; my complexion is dark. Thanks to you, and I'll be watching in every paper for your help. MARGUERITE. Marguerite, Bend, Or.: Indeed you can use the ruffles, but you will have to have the skirt ful length in front and back, and there fore I would try to match the taf feta and purchase sufficient for the new length; if very wide the one length will be sufficient, as it can be split. Then, too, you could have it of the blue serge, trimming your blouse with one-inch strips of the latter named. Now what I wish to propose is this: Use your ruffles as side trims on your skirt, using them in side line rather than in the present line. Not long ago I saw an imported model, a combination of canton crepe on a black broad cloth, made after this type sug gested, and really it was stunning, particularly for one of your height. Your blouse is quite correct as it is, and the only change would be in the added lengthwise bands of taf feta or serge and the same trim for the sleeve. ' If you have the black taffeta for the trimming, then I would suggest the handwork done in the red, blue and the copper worsteds, using an allover design in the band type of patterns. If the blue serge is used, then there will be sufficient contrast and the handwork can be eliminated. Have DYE FADED CURTAINS, SKIRT SWEATER, DRESS OR COAT IN "DIAMOND DYES'! Each package of "Diamond Dyes" contains directions so simple any woman can dye or tint her old. worn, faded things new. Even if she has never dyed before, she can put a rich, fadeless color into shabby skirts, dresses, waists, coats, stock 4ngs, sweaters, , coverings, dra This Dutch-necked ankle-length model is especially de signed for bti out-of-door costume. Skill fully knit to follow the lines of the fig ure, it fits without bagging or wrinkling. With its special elastic rein forcements at the shoulder, a roomy seat that keeps its shape, specially knit cuffs at wrist and ankle, a soft springy fabric that yields to every movement of the body this Carter one-piece suit is especially popular with men. your skirt long and use as many lengths of ruffles as you can, be ginning at a low waist line which shows the joining of blouse and skirt. The idea is in having the panel of lengthwise ruffles, and I am sure that you will like th effect. Dear Mauam Richet: I have a box pleaCed skirt like sample which I wore with a brown jersey jacket last winter. It has two full widths 60 inches wide, 33 inches long, including hem. I thought I would take the pleats out and make a plain skirt. What would you suggest doing with the remainder of goods? Could I make a suitable waist of some kind? T am quite short 5 feet and 4S years old. The skirt is just a good length, as it reaches tho shoe tops. Thanking you for any suggestions. MRS. O. A. C. Mrs. O. A. C: Your material is beautiful, but may I suggest that in the future you choose the plainer fabric or the stripes, as with your stature the cross lines will decrease your height. A very pleasing type of frock, which should meet your requirements, will be found in the McCall's Quarterly for fall on page 36, No. 2804. For the sleeves and underarm I would have the heavy weight canton in the same, lovely green as shown in the sample's 'stripe. Should you not care for the canton combine with the same quality of woolen material you have in your skirt, using the green in either event. peries, hangings, everything! Buy Diamand Dyes no other kind then perfect home dyeing is guaranteed. Just tell your druggist whether the material you wish to dye is wool or silk, or whether it is linen, cotton, or mixed goods. Diamond Dyes nevor streak, jspot, la4jas tan, Adivw