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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Feb. 13, 1921)
4, THE SUNDAY. OREGOXTAN, PORTLAND, FEBRUARY 13, 1921 SEMI-FORMAL EVENING FROCK IS WHAT GIRL IN COLLEGE USUALLY NEEDS MOST Formal Dance Costumes Are Worn Only at Big Proms and Other Outstanding Functions Big'SuppIy of Pretty Dresses Is Available at This Time of Tear. ' ' ) v Vyl if r Vlif? liPiv lit I It li " III u JT7ST about now comes an S. O. S. call from the girl at collece: "Please do send me something to wear. I am literally In rags." And forthwith a faithful parent sallies out to replenish the tattered wardrobe. And there are frocks galore to choose among. Pretty dresses always flood the market about this season, when eerybody is tired of looking at furs and heavy wraps. Excellent frocks may be picked up at surprising bar rains, and even the newest models bearing; the fresh stamp of Paris are not so prohibitive in price as they were last year. - What the college girl usually needs most is something in the way of semi formal evening frock. Formal dance frocks are worn only at big proms or other prominent college functions, but the semi-formal evening frock Sets worn and worn and worn, until it is literally in tatters whfn the wearer is young ad active and always in too much of a hurry to put in the titch-n-t!me. Little frocks for din ner hour and evening gatherings aft er dinner are always needed also. Athletic togs seem to last out the college year very well, and few girls come home with the toes they started out with; for there seems to be a sys tem of borrow and exchange where athletic clothes are concerned. Taffeta Frocks Have Cording. If the daughter at college is to have the very newest sort of frocks a fond parent can select, the model will un doubtedly be one of those corded taf fetas that are so particularly engag ing. A frock of blue taffeta has a button-in-back bodice and a knee length ciroular tunic which flares over a longer, narrower skirt be neath. Tunic, girdle and elbow sleeve are embroidered with silver thread and black silk thread. A black taf feta model and black taffeta frocks re going to be tremendously smart has a square-necked, elbow-sleeved bodice fastened at the back and fitted with seams and darts. The darts are piped with bright red taffeta and red taffeta roses are appllqued to the tucked, gathered skirt. A gay little frock, this. Very charming is a model of coffee-brown eatin with circular . tunic, wide crush sash and elbow- eieeved bodice fastened at the back The bodice is embroidered all over with white silk and facings of white silk turn back from- neckline and leeve edge. The circular tunic has a white piping at the edge. Pipings on Kew Spring; Frocks. Many Quaint features hinting at return to styles of the 70s and the 80s re appearing on frocks for spring. The plain bodices, fitted with piped darts, for instance, the lavish use of velvet ribbon in band trimmings and bowknots, the facings of contrasting color on tailored garb. Lavin Intro duced these striking facings a month or so ago, and' they are usually of white broadcloth, even on s'lk suits or wraps. Sometimes the garment carrying the spotless white facings is embroidered elaborately with white floss. An attractive frock for a young woman is bt black satin with simple kimono waist, crush sash with looped-over ends, and gathered skirt scalloped at the edge. The waist of this frock Is embroidered with white ilk thread, and a roll collar of white ilk outlines the neckline from shoul der to sash, a tucker of shirred lace filling the opening. The scallops of the skirt and sleeve edge are piped with white and the sash ends are faced with white. Kimono Frock Lines Straight. Straight, el'm kimono dresses tied in with a narrow rash and embroid ered in Japanese effect are the latest expression of the craze for straight lines. The real kimono opens down, the front; the kimono frock slips over the head that seems to be the only difference. But these kimono dresses are much fancied by youthful wearers and the college girl especially ap proves a style which is so easy to adjust in a hurry. One of these dresses, of navy tricotine, has em broidery from hem to hip in wistaria design: graceful sprays of purple wistaria trailing naturally and done In shades of lavender, violet and S27QZoo&- 1 k - 1 1 4 ( f . - " if 1 d - .-Jyw-.r, -ti j k-" - a.--. .. - . .- h , j , . ,f : ;i s ......... :.Vt y Y, -tf j though It does seem a pity for youth to wear black, the black evening gown for a girl can be- made a very blithe . affair. New models in-the misses' department are of airy black net with horizontal bands of lac quered black satin ribbon all the way up the skirt, and the shiny rlWbons give brightness to the black costume. One of these frocks has pipings of orange In the black satin girdle, and a huge cartwheel rosette at one side of the girdle shows whirls and whirls of orange pipings. Another black dance gown for mauve. The narrow sash is of purple grosgraln ribbon. There la a touch of the embroidery on a flat collar, but the sleeves In flaring, three-quarter style,' are perfectly plain. Danre Frocks for CeUes;e. - Very probably the S. O. S. call for more clothes will include a con vincing appeal for a black evening frock. Every girl Is wild for a black evening frock this year and there seem to be enough of these frocks to go round. Every other evening gown In the snops seems to be" a black one. Nobody looks as well in a black I picot edged. All th ruffles are caught up one side under bows of black velvet ribbon, the velvet bows mak ing a straight line down the skirt. There are velvet ribbon bows, too, on the elbow sleeve ruffles. Evening; Frocks Made at Home. Some of the expensive frocks In the shops look absurdly easy to make; but one must remember that clever choice of colors and a Frenchy touch of trimming make the smart ness. and distinction of. these models. Any mother who has a knack for dressmaking can fashion a pretty evening gown to send to her daugh ter at college, but her beat plan will be to study some one model in the Bhops and copy It exactly; copy it to the last detail of picot edging and posy of flowers at the girdle. For instance a delectable frock of char treuse chiffon, easy to reproduce at home; the waist is cut kimono fash- Ion with a rounded neckline, sleeves to the elbow and fastening at ttie back. This waist blouses in soft folds over the sash which is narrow and made of chartreuse ribbon. Across front and back of this narrow girdle are garlands of green leaves In little clusters, with a few pendant black gra,pes. The skirt is gathered to the waistband and is picot fin ished at the lower edge. Four cart wheel rosettes of the chartreuse rib bon, with streamers, are set on the chiffon, skirt just below the hip. The college girl whose wardrobe Is In rags and tags about now, will be charmed with this new evening gown (4565) easy to get into and delight fully becoming to the slender lines of youth. Beautiful material silver gray georgette with a peacock blue design in velvet is made up with utmost simplicity; the square necked, elbow sleeved waist, soft sash and scalloped skirt being the epitome of j youtmuiness. une sasn, ioopea once over, is of the velvet flowered" georg ette with a lining of silver tissue. Anjc girl would adore this dance frock (5278) of shimmering satin meteor in the loveliest shade of canary yellow. Four pleated panels fall in graceful draperies over the skirt, giving an efect of bouffancy that Is heightened by twin sashes, looped at either hip. The bodice, gathered into a triangular section at the waistline, is soft and graceful also, and has little kimono sleeves. The pretty frock Is formal enough for the spring prom, yet it may be worn at informal dinner parties. Every girl Is begging for a black evening dress this season, and here (4222) is a dance frock that is both black and youthful enough in style to please maternal taste. The frock is made of black sHk4 net, over a slim little black satin foundation, and on the net are sewed many rows of lac quered black ribbon, the gleaming ribbon giving brightness and gaiety to the black costume. But, as a spe cial note of youthfulness, the, de signer of tbe frock has added a touch of yellow organdy, In pipings on the-girdle and its shirred rosette. INTEREST IN LINEN BEING REVIVED BY HOUSEWIVES Coveted Material Again -Available in Generous Quantities, Which Is Considered Nearly Too Good to Be True. El HI 1 Itf An n one dance frock as a young girl, and youth has a skirt .of black net ruffles, N INTERESTING example of the e-trick, or informatory, dou ble came up in recent hand, as follows: Z, the dealer, bid "one heart" on six hearts to the ace, queen, 10, one small club, the twice-guarded king of diamonds and three small spades. A and Y passed. B held the following: 43 A IC 3 2 A Q 4 A J 4 3 a hand on which as initial bidder he undoubtedly would have bid "no trumps," but was debarred from doing so because of his lack of protection In hearts. Perhaps there is no rule which should be more rigidly ob served than the one prohibiting the bid of no trumps when one is un protected In the adversary's cult. The 'player who attempts it will surely get singed, in most cases seri ously so. No trumps, then, being out of the question and the hand no admitting of a suit bid, what was B to do accept the adverse heart dec laration with the prospect of piling up big penalties or make the informa tory double, asking his partner to make a bid? While his hand seemed good for four, possibly five or even six tricks, if Z was exceptionally long In hearts and eo short in othersuits. his high cards might fail to make. Besides, it was the rubber game. A-B were well ahead on penalties, so it seemed the time to go in for game, especially as B's hand was so con structed that It would easily fit In with any bid A might make. Aa Response Welcome, B, therefore, doubled. Z passed, and A, in response to the double, bid "no trumps." This was as music to B's cars and far better than he expected. As the other players passed, the hand was played by A at "no trumps," with the result that the side scored a lit tle slam, a total of 390 60 for tricks, 30 for aces, 50 for little elam and 25t for rubber. A's hand was the follow ing: KJ6 2 Q 9 8 7 6 ' 4 7 6 Q 10 wise, when, as In the case given, the partner's bid is on a suit of four cards only, the adverse, rather than the de claring side, has the majority of trumps. At a trump declaration, trumps are the controlling factor in the game, and unless a side has the majority it can easily go down to defeat. In the case cited I do not think the player was justified In his double, as, no matter what he may. or may not have had in the two re maining suits, hearts and clubs, he was weak in diamonds. He should have realized that should his partner bid that suit he would be unable to support it, in which event unless the partner had real strength In the suit the hand would likely, as in reality it did, result in disaster. Defense Argument Noted. Some players argue that as a means of defence against the informatory double, it is up to the partner of the initial bidder. If having rather more than average strength, to redouble. This on the theeory that by nullify ing the effect which the doubling player intends the double shall have it will force him, the player who doubled, to himself make some def inite announcement or suffer the disaster he will generally meet If the hand be played at the initial bid redoubled. Those who advocate this policy evidently lose sight of the .fact that when the two first bidders, the Initial bidder and the doubling player, have shown strength, and third bidder also is strong, the fourth bidder can have nothing but a bust and would gladly welcome a release from the obligation which the double otherwise will im pose upon him. It Is considered much more effective under such conditions for the partner of the doubled player to mask his strength and await de velopments, though if he have a hand on which, regardless of developments, he Intends sooner or later to advance his partner's bid-he should genrally do so at once and thus probably r-o'- veni me indication, by the bid of his left-hand adversary, of the suit which it would be most advantageous for the right-hand adversary to open. Double Held Advantage. The double of a one-trick suit hM Having good protection In the ad-( as are the cases under consideration : 7r v;4, h j J j j TaaaaaBaaamann-nni X?n U 7I :'"v 1 Ii ' " Ml I How to Tint Your Gray Hair at Home If your hair is graying or Is faded and streaked, do not let It becomt any more unattractive. No mattel whether Its oriclnal youthful coloi was golden or black, or any shade oi brown, all you need Is a bottle ol Brownatone to Instantly restore lu beauty In a manner that defies deteo tion. This famous preparation Is is simple and eaty to use as manicuring your nails. Special Free Trial Offer. Every package of Hrownatone con tains full, simple directions for work ing its matjic on Rray. faded or streaked hair. Guaranteed absolutely harmless. At all leadintr druKgiids in 50c -and $1.60 packages. Two colors; "Lieht to Medium Brown" and "Dark Rrown to Klack." Send to the Ken loo Pharmaral Co . 63S Coppln Bldg., Cov. Ington, Ky., encloslns 11 cents to pay postaBe, packins and war tax. for a free trial packase of Brownatone. Adv. DIAMOND DYES Garments or Draperies Never Streak, Fade, or have a "Dyed-Look" versary's suit (hearts), queen and 10 of spades, and a long suit In clubs to the queen he' naturally responded to the double by naming the higher val ued bid, no trumps, rather than his long ult. There are some players, 1 find, who are under the Impression a double of this nature is an unequivo cal command to the partner to bid his iongest suit. Not so( by any means; such double, in fact, embodies a preference for a no-trump bid, and says to the partner that if he has one or two 6ure stoppers in the ad verse suit and preferably some slight strength besides to bid no trumps; otherwise his longest suit. It indicates the ability to take care of either bid. No matter what the re suit of the bid, the player who eo bids is relieved entitrely of any fur ther responsibility in the matter. His partner has made a direct request of him and he complies with it; that is all there is to it so far as he is concerned. The doubling player, however, the player who Issues such command to his partner, must be per feotly assured his handi justifies it. otherwise great disaster can easily bo the result. Different Case Cited. In this particular hand the double proved of the utmost value; A's hold ing was exceptional, and played at no trumps the hand could not help turning out wen. mere are many cases, however, in which the results are far less satisfactory, and lest the triumphant players In thle case should lose sight of this I cited tbe following case which also recently came under my observation: The dealer bid a spade and second player doubled. As In the case given the double showed protection In all suite but spades, and asked the part ner to Did no trumps if holding one or more stoppers in spades; other wise his longest suit. The double In this case, however, found the partner with a bust hand hearts 5. 3, 2; clubs 8, 7, 4, 3; diamonds 9, 8, 7, 2; spades 6 3. As may be imagined, he was placed in a most embarrassing position, being: obliged to make a bid, and not simply a bid of one, but of two, on a perfectly hopeless hand. Necessarily he inferred his partner, the doubling player, was well pro tected or he would not have imposed this obligation upon him, but at the same time he shrank from complying with it and vainly wished there were some means of - escape. However, having to bid, he chose diamonds rather than clube because of the slightly greater strength in diamonds than In clubs. Diamonds, as it hap pened, found the doubling player with but two, king and one small; yet there being no bid to which be could shift, the hand was played at two-diamonds, and the side went down three tricks, Z-Y scoring pen alties to the value of 150, plus four honors a total of 178. Advantage Often Seen. Those who disfavor the one-trick double use a case of this kind as a strong argument against its efficacy. My contention, however, is that when such d-ouble is used with judgment. that is. when the hand fully justifies its use and especially when it is the double of a one-trick suit bid, it turns out to the advantage of the side far oftener than it turns to their dis advantage, and results often in the side getting a score when otherwise It Is the adversaries who would score. I do not, however, approve Its use save when the hand on which-the double is made contains genuine, not suDDoaltious strength In all tne three remaining suits, and when each of these suits contains at least three cards. This latter condition 1 con sider of the utmost Importance, other- t flHn V f. tn .1 . . rir x ' "'"""ion rar more efficacious and results far more ad vantageously in the great number of cases than the double of a one-trick no-trump bid. In the former case the doubling player says that he has a genuine no-trump hand save that he lacks protection in the adversary's suit, and asks the partner to bid no trumps or his longest suit, according to the particular makeup of his hand. In the latter caee the doubling player also announces a no-trump hand and commands the partner of having support for a no-trumper to Dia no trumps: otherwise his longest suit. No-trump support in such case has reference more to guarded queens and guarded jacks than to aces and kings, since when two clavers have shown no-trump strength one can not reasonably expect a third player to nave much strength In that direc tion. It turns out not infrequently mL a piayej- wno aouDies a no- trump bid. asking his partner to make a ma, nas tne strength in his own hand to justify a two no-trump bid, or at least a suit bid. or that it will be more to his advantage to mask his strength and use it for defeating purposes. w hy, then. Impose upon his partner, who Is generally weak, the responsibility of naming the bid? The double of a one-trick suit bid i. however, an entirely different proposition. The player is shut out of-the no-trump bid because he Is defenseless in the adversary's suit. Frequently, also, while holding high or commanding cards In the three remaining suits he le not sufficiently long In any one of them to Justify the bid of a suit. What alternative has he, therefore, but to double, thereby asking his partner to bid no trumps if able to stop the adverse suit! otherwise his longest suit, which suit also the double announces (or should announce) the ability to take care of? As said before, when such double is used with proper care and Judgment I consider It a most Important and valuable adjunct to the game, frequently resulting to the manifest advantage of the side using It. Two Theories Conflict. For some reason Miss Irwin dis misses this phase of the informatory double with a word by saying that the double of a one-trick no-trump bid develops much more often and is much more popular than the double of a one-trick suit bid, and confines herself entirely to a discussion which is at the same time a denunciation of the double of the one-trick no trump. In this particular I do not agree With her. Hands frequently come up where one has a perfectly sound and legitimate no-trump bid save that one suit is unprotected. When the holder is the Initial bidder he unhesitatingly bida no trumps. knowing that if the adversary de clares this suit he can take refuge In a pass, provided his partner does not show protection in the suit by raising his bid. When, though, he Is not the initial bidder and before he sreta a chance to bid the adversary announces the suit, what is he to do? Pass on excellent material, or by the use of perfectly legitimate means In form-his partner that if he is pro tected in the adverse suit he wants him to bid no trumps: If not, his longest suit, as he himself having strength in the three remaining suits any bid he may maite snouia turn out to their joint advantage. When the doubling player's partner becomes the declarer, as in such case he generally does, the first lead comes up to him rather than through him and he is thus often enabled to 6top an adverse suit against which other wise he would be helpless. Those who appreciate the value of position i MOW that linens are available again, interest in household ar- " tides made of linen Is revived. So long as the patient housewife "got along" during the lean linen years of wartime and Immediately there after with makeshifts in the way of tablecloths, bedspreads, bureau covers and bags fashioned of everything from flowered chintz or crepe paper, that row she finds It almost too good to be true that linens are again to be procured in generous quantity. All the art needlework shops are offering things made of linen and some of the new designs are most beautiful and most interesting. Pictured are two new linen of ferings of a well-known shop where exquisite table belongings and house hold articles made of linen are a specialty. The bag Is of gray linen gray, of course, for gray is fash Ion's supreme favorite just now! And the embroidered pattern Is in paler gray, almost an oyster white tint. This is the smart new sort of conventionalized flower motif that is at present the craze in art embroid ery. The cord handles of the bag, you perceive, are run under button holed loops quite a new idea. The luncheon set is a very beauti ful example of filet drawn-work on white linen. The pattern shows me dallions with quaint little baskets between graceful scroll motifs and all the work, Including the delicate scallop and dot at the edge, is in filet effect. The set comprises a large centerpiece, plate doilies and six tum bler dollies. Each packtipe of "Diamond l es' cotalns directions so simple that il Is fun for any woman to diamond-dye faded, shabby skirts, waists, dres&ex, coats, stockings, sweaters, draperius, coverings, everything. Buy "Diamond Dyes" no otlu r kind then perfect results are guaranteed. Tell druggist whether your material is wool or silk, or If It is cotton, linen or a mixture. 16 rich colors. Adv. will understand perfectly what this means and will realize that this very thing often conduces materially to the success of the no-trump bid when made under such conditions. Thoro ar a few things still to be considered under this heading, wnicn I will take up in a future issue. Some Useful Hints. When there is difficulty in having garbage removed, keep It In an old tin, and after the baking is done put the garbage in tne oven to ..." the moisture has disappeared. Than you can throw the garbage on the fire and it will not put it out. This Is an excellent plan for an emergency. ' If it Is necessary to use a re u.ntiKja for exoectoratinz in the sick room, place some tissue paper in th? bottom of the receptacle and then It will be easy to clean, burning tho paper. When boiling onions pour milk into the water. It gives the onions a nice flavor and takes away the rank Have you tried using a new paint brush for greasing hot muffin pans? It saves doing up burned fingers. Very pretty buttoned boots of dark brown kid, with tops of brown cloth. are noted with spring costumes of a brown shade in shop windows. Foot wear must harmonize with the cos tume now and particularly smart in Use Pyramid Be Happy one authoritative shop was a short jacketed suit of brown canton crepe with brown mllan turban and browa lace veil. With the brown suit was shown a blouse of creamy batiste and filet, and brown buttoned boots and silk stockings hovered near by. A bright scarlet geranium In the coat front of the suit gave a touch of color. Hair Often Ruined by Careless Washing LOOK YOUNG. PRETTY Sage Tea and Sulphur Darkens So Naturally That No body Can Tell. If Endurance la Being; Tried 4na Limit Get a Box of Pyramid File Snpposltorles If you are struggling with the ain and oiscomiort oi itcning. leeding, protruding piles or hemor- . A r -5 j-' Sk rhoids. go over to any drug store and get a 60 cent box of Pyramid Pile Suppositories. Take no substi tute. Relief should come so quickly you will wonder why anyone should continue to suffer the pain of such a distressing condition. For a free trial packase. send name and ad dress to Pyramid Drug Co., 809 Pyr. amid Bldg., Marshall. Mich, Hair that loses its color and luster, or when It fades, turns gray, dull and lifeless. Is caused by a lack of sul phur In the hair. Our grandmother made up a mixture of Sage Tea and Sulphur to keep her locks dark and beautiful and thousands of women and men who value that even color. that beautiful dark shade of hair which is so attractive, use only this old-time recipe. Nowadays wa get this famous mix ture improved by the addition of other Ingredients by asking at any drug store for a bottle of "Wyeth's Sage and Sulphur Compound," which darkens the hair so naturally, so evenly, that nobody can possibly tell it has been applied. Tou Just dampen a sponge or soft brush with it and draw this through your hair, taking one small strand at a time. By morn ing the gray hair disappears; but what delights the ladies with Wy eth's Sage and Sulphur Compound is that, besides beautifully darkening the hair after a few applications, it also brings back the gloss and luster and gives it an appearance of abun dance. Adv. Soap should be used very carefully if you want to keep your hair looking Its best. Most soaps and prepared shampoos contain too much alkali. This dries the scalp, makes the hair brittle and ruins It. The best thing for steady use It Mulslfied cocoanut oil shampoo (which Is pure and greaseless) and is better than anything else you can use. One or two teaspoonfuls of Mulsl fied will olcar.ao ths hair and scalp thoroughly. Simply moisten the hair with water and rub it in. It makes an abundance of rich, creamy lather, which rinses 'out easily, removing ev ery particie of dust, dirt, dandruff and excessive oil. The hair dries quickly and evenly, and It leaves the scalp soft, and the hair fine and silky, bright, lustrous, fluffy and easy to manage. You can jet Mulslfied cocoanut oil shampoo at any pharmacy, It's very cheap, and a few ounces will supply every member of the family for months, lie sure your druggist gives you Mulslfied. Adv. You Can't Brush or Wash Out Dandruff The only sure way to get rid of dn druff Is to dissolve It, then you de stroy it entirely. To do this, get aboul four ounces of ordinary liquid arvon; apply it at night when retiring; usf enough to moisten the scalp and rub it In gently with the finger tips. Do this tonight, and by morning, most if not all, of your dandruff will be gone, and three or four more appli cations will completely dissolve and entirely destroy every single sign and trace of it, no matter how much dan druff you may have. You will find, too. that all Itching and digging of the scalp will stop at once, and your hair will be fluffy, lus trous, glossy, silky and soft, and look and feel a hundred times better. You can get liquid arvon at any drag store. It is inexpensive and never fails to do the work. Adv. FIERY, ITCHY ECZEMA HEALED RIGHT UP BY APPLYING SULPHUR Any breaking out of the skin, even fleryitching eczema, can be quickly overcome by applying a little Men-tho-Sulphur, says a noted skin spe cialist Because of Its germ-destroying properties, this sulphur prepara tion instantly brings ease from skin irritation, soothes and heals the ec zema right up and leaves the skin clear and smooth. It seldom falls to relieve the tor ment and disfigurement Sufferers from skin trouble should get a little Jar of Mentho-Sulphur from any good druggist and use it lias a cold cream. Adv. Adler-i-ka Again! "I was troubled with constipation and indigestion for about three ears. Was afraid to eat even rice. Since taking Adler-i-ka I can eat anything without fear." (Signed) Mrs. A. How ard. Adler-I-ka acts on BOTH upper ana lower bowel, removing foul matter which poisoned stomach. Brings out all gasses, relieving pressure on heart and other organs. EXCELLENT for gas on the stomach or sour stomach. Removes a surprising amount of foul, decaying matter which you never thought was In your system and which nothing else can dislodge. Tends to CURE constipation and pre vent appendicitis. Adler-i-ka sur prises those who have used only or dinary bowel and stomach medicines. Skldmore Drug Co.. 151 Third, and all leading druggists. Adv. imim t Niht 0 Morning i !eepYbur Eyes 3rK V sW