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THE SUNDAY OREGOXIAN, PORTLAND, JANUARY 1C, 1921
LITTLE FUR WRAPS EASIER THAN BULKY ;
COAT TO TAKE CARE OF IN THEATER SEAT
One Dainty Piece Is of Russian Mink While Circular Cape of Fur Falls Well Below Waistline Two Long
Animal Skins Make Collar That May Be Lifted Around Throat. -
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IB little fur wraps are delight
fully warm and they are easier
to take care of than a bulky coat
In a theater seat, So they are par
ticularly popular with the matinee
plrl. This dainty wrap (3291) Is of
Russian mink. lA circular cape of the
fur falls well below the waist line and
two long animal skins make the col
lar, which may be twisted round the
throat in muffler or scarf fashion.
The mink wrap accompanies a frock
of blue tricotine and one of the cute
little shirred silk hats just out In
advance spring style.
Nothing: la so fashionable as gray
Just now the Paris craze for all
shades of gray has reached America.
A beautiful gray costume is pictured.
(5067). Smoke gray fox is muffled
about the throat and the turban is pf
pray velvet in the same smoke shade
mbroidcrrd with silver thread. The
rich neckpiece and bat accompany a
wrappy coat of light gray wool velour
embroidered with braid in self tone.
And of course, as you may gaess, she
is wearing gray silk stockings and
srsy suede strap slippers.
From her snusrrled-in-fur look you
might assume that she (453$) Is all
wrapped up for January. So she is
as far as you can see. But the heavy
coat of black velvet falls over a skirt
of frilly chiffon and, of course, the
chiffon frock demands dainty little
strap slippers and silk stockings. But
the width and warmth tf the big
squirrel collar surely keep her warm
as toast; and very effective with the
black velvet coat and gray fur Is a
hat of deep red velvet with a dash
However, she doubled, and owing: to
a serious mietake in the play of the
declarer and not In any sense because
the double was right, -came out with
flying colors, defeating the contract
by three tricks and getting penalties
to the value of 300. The hand went
Q 10 S S 6 5 4 2 A B
ERE is a hand showing very
pretty Inferences, especially as
J 7 3
J8 6 2
A 10 2 '
Q 7 5 3 2
. . . .
10 9 6 4
Z. the dealer, bid "a spade." A
fussed, and T made a pre-emptive
raise, and said "two spades." A pre
emptive raise is essentially different
from a pre-emptive bid and is strongly
approved by many players who dis
approve the pre-emptive bid. A pre
emptive bid pre-empts one's partner
as well as one's opponents: It Is, In
fact, a command to one's partner to
let the bid stand, no matter how illy
liis band may be adapted to it or
how beautifully it may conform to
come other bid. If a pre-emptive bid
pre-empted one's opponents only, it
would be much more generally ap
proved than it is. This is what the
pre-emptive raise accomplishes; It
ehuts out the opponent only. It is
made, necessarily, after the partner
has spoken. The bid he has made
constitutes, in fact, the basia of the
The pre-emptive raise applies to
conditions like the following: The
dealer, we will say. has bid and sec
ond player has passed. Third player,
if having a hand on which he would
raise bis partner's bid if forced to
do. often does so in spite of the fact
Jiit.at the time it is not necessary.
in the hope to handicap fourth player
as regards making a bid. Many believe
in raising the bid at once to within
one of the number of times the hand
would Justify the raise, if opposing
Dias forced one to raise.
As stated, therefore, T bid "two
spades," but B in this case refused
to be pre-empted and came out with
"three diamonds." (I am giving the
bids as they were made, not necee
sarily as they should be made. B
truly has little on which to base a
bid of three, the less so as his partner
nas passed, thus proclaiming a band
lacking a genuine first-round bid. The
only Justification perhaps was that it
was the rubber game.)
Z, whose hand was slightly stronger
than was necessary for her initial bid
and encouraged by her partner's pre
emptive raise, went "three Bpades."
A then came suddenly to life, and,
having but one of her partner's suit
(diamonds), though an unusually long
suit of clubs second-round bids being
generally on long weak suits an
nounced "four clubs." Y passed (I
think he should have given another
raise), and B. realizing his partner
could not support diamonds and
unable himself to support clubs,
which bid, being a second-round bid
most likely Indicated length, rather
than high-card strength, also passed.
Z went to "four spades," and A
foolishly doubled. What there'was In
her hand to Justify the double, it
would be difficult to say. A safe
double presupposes the book in the
doubling player's hand, trusting to
one's partner for the extra trick, the
trick necessary to defeat the double.
A bad not a sure triek in her hand;
to be sure, it contained possibilities.
bnt possibilities are not certainties,
and a double that goes wrong is
about the most expensive thing one
comes up against la auction play. I
Trick. A Y B Z
1 & J Q 4
2 4 K 2 6V
3 74 24 104 34
4 2 64 A4 94
5 A 3 9
6... i 3 7 Ks
Lenotcs winner of trick.
From this on declarer wins every
trick, but she has already fallen
down to the extent of three tricks.
Played correctly, the band would
go as follows. Declarer would have
no difficulty in making her contract
and scoring to the value of 417 points,
73 for doubled tricks, 45 for honors,
50 for making good at a double, and.
it being the rubber game, 250 bonus
Trick. A Y B ) Z
1 k 5 JV" '
2 44 A 7 3S
J 8 2 8 K4
4 9 10 3 6
5 24V 3 44 K
4 7 54 A
7 5 J Q
8 74 24 K4 34
9 64 A4 94
V 8 84 Q4 J
11 9 A 5
12 10 J 104 10
U Q J ' 7 Q
Denotes winner of trick.
lone of dummy's two commands and
(drawn the trumps.
! At a trump declaration the lead of
; an eight-spot is never a fourth best
j lead by the very nature of the case
I it cannot be, since if one holds three
.cards higher than an eight-spot it is
I inevitably a high-card lead. The lead
of such card, therefore, always points
to danger. Setting aside this con
sideration, Z should have known by
the eleven- Yule that A's lead was a
shot suit, possibly a doubleton,
though more likely a singleton. If
the card led were a fourth best, by
inferences from the eleven rule Z
should have known there could have
been Just three cards higher than the
eight which were out against the
leader. Her own hand contained two
higher and the dummy hand three
higher. Clearly, then, it was not a
fourth best lead. This should have
emphasized more than ever the Im
portance of winning the first trick.
Z's excuse for the play of the jack
rsther than the king was that she
thought Jack would hold good and
sh would thus make three tricks In
the suit. She apparently failed to
realize that by winning the first
trick with king and exhausting
trumps, leaving herself In the lead
for the fifth trick, she could lead a
heart from her own hand and make
the finesse of her Jack then if at
that time it seemed well to do so.
A's failure to follow to this trick
would at once proclaim the situation
and Z could win the immediate trick
or otherwise as she might think best.
There is a current saying1 to the
effect that "cards never forgive," and
apparently it proved true in this
case, for not only did Z's unwise play
cost the side a considerable sum of
money, but it was the cause even
tually of their losing the rubber, and,
as will sometimes happen, the cards
began to run against them and so
continued during the remainder of
A correspondent asks the following:
The bid has been secured by Z at
"four hearts," which A has doubled.
Z not only makes good, but takes one
more trick than the number named.
or 5. A contends that since he dou
bled a four-trick contract only Z is
not entitled to score the value of the
additional trick below the line, but
should score simply an additional 50
in the honor score.
A certainly has hazy Ideas regard
ing the subject, and until she famil
iarizes herself as to the proper mode
of scoring she would be infinitely
wiser in not attempting a double, for I
she certainly cannot have a clear or I
definite idea as to the strength jus
tifying a double or the many consid
erations governing the situation.
However, In answer to the question,
would state that when a player I
makes good at a double she scores
the doubled value as well of any and
all tricks she takes in excess of the
number named. Z's score in this
case would be 80 below the line, and
above the line 50 for. making good
at a double, 50 for the extra trick
and 64 for honors, she having held
four honors In her own hand.
To put the case somewhat differ
ently and perhaps more emphatically.
suppose the contract had been de
feated by five tricks? As the double
was over a contract of four tricks.
would A, I wonder, be satisfied with
400-point score only, or would he I
clamor for the additional hundred to
which in reality he would be entitled?
It is a poor rule that does not work
Another question asked Is as to
the proper bid on the following hand,
he player holding It sitting fourth
at table and the three other players
v 10 2
K J 6 2
4 A 9 3
Q 10 7 2
Under conditions as given, the
player should undoubtedly pass. Were
she the dealer or second player (the
ealer having passed), she should bid
no trumps. I do not know that play-
rs generally are impressed with the
importance as fourth bidder of mak
ing no bid when the other three
players have passed unless the bid
pretty confidently assures game. The
time of playing for a partial score
as passed. Game Is the desideratum
of all players, and unless gams Is
pretty well assured, a pass is gen-
rally the better policy. One or tne
chief objections, however, to a bid
on a hand as given oy me lourtn
player at table when the others have
Dassed is that such bid reopens the
bidding and ofton admits of the ad-
ersary coming In on the second
ith a long, weak bid (a bid wnicn
e was unable to announce on me
first round), finding his partner with
leh card strength in the suit, ana
not infrequently going game; whereas
had the fourth player as well an-
nnneed a pass the opposing forces
would have had no intimation of the
ossibillties of their two hands, and
the hands would have Deen tnrown
Far better, as lourtn piayer.
therefore, unless, as explained, tne
bid insures promise of game, also
o pass, trusting to better luca on tne
ext deal. ,
GAY LITTLE HANKIES ADD
MUCH TO STREET COSTUME
With Only Corner or bo Showing, Much Liveliness Will Be Added to
Dark Attire Patterns Are Frivolous.
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INKLY little hankies" they've
been called, and "ducky lit
tle hankies." They are just
bits of gay color to give liveliness to
a dark street costume, and only the
least corner or two of the little ker
chief is supposed to show. But if
the color is just right if it matches
the bead ornament on your hat or
even the blue of your eyes or a deco
ration on your handbag the little
hanky counts enormously.
Probably thousands of these pretty
little breast - pocket handkerchiefs
changed hands as Christmas gifts.
There would have been a perfect
flutter of them like a diminutive
"Chautauqua salute", if all the pack
ages had fallen apart in the post
office. Several favored kinds are pictured,
bordered ones and others with a pat
tern all over the handkerchief. One
hankie has even a little Watteau
Lady, powdered coiffure, panniers
and spreading petticoats, all In pastel
tints on the ground of fine white
tissue. Another hankie shows pink
rosebuds In the center and a border
of green and white mistletoe some
fun and excitement that particular
hankie Is going to cause! In the
same illustration is a kerchief with
yellow border and butterflies. The
other Illustration shows various ar
rangements of bands and stripes in
rose, blue, green or orange with black
lines to pick out the pattern. Most
of these breast-pocket hankies are
of sheer tissue. They are frivolous
affairs and not such Important ad
Junts of the costume as the real
handkerchief which is always, of
cours?, of linen; if you are particu
lar about correct accessories.
HERE IS NOVEL WAY TO LET
NEWS OF ENGAGEMENT GET OUT
Hostess Surprises Girl Friends With Invitations and Keeps Party in
Suspense Until Snapshots at End Reveal Motive.
arranged an ordinary game of tiddly
winks. At table two they played the
old nursery game of "snap" only when
they dealt out the cards they dis
covered that they were ail hearts.
In the center of the table there wa
a heap of cardboard slips with name
printed on themj every one took
handful and found that each nam
was that of some famous lover, mal
or female. For every pair that
matched up the player took one score.
They did this four times for the on
hand, and the two with the highest
score moved on, as did the winners
at all the tables.
Each player at table four had
little picture puzzle to put together.
They . were all pictures of wedding
scenes. At the last table was an old
fashioned game of pachisi, with litll
wooden hearts Instead of the usua
As each person moved she wa
given a candy kiss by the hostess,
wrapped-in pink paper.
Needless to say by the time every
one had reached the third table they
were all getting suspicious, and every
one was excited. But nothing hap
pened. When every one had played
at every table, the hostess told them
to count their scores, and she cleared
the table and put on little white
cloths. When she brought around the
napkins on a tray she put a tiny little
nOBegay bouquet made up In shove
fashion with a paper frill and little
white baby ribbon streamers at each
place. In the next room a phono
graph was playing "Love's Old Sweet
Song" and "The Sweetest Story Ever
When the score was taken after re
freshmenls, of course several had the
same namber of kisses in their bags
Then the hostess said that it was so
hard to decide to whom to give the
prize that she was giving It to every
one, and she passed little packages to
each one. . When they were opened
they were found to contain little
frames with snapshots of the en
Of Intercut to Women.
The schools for girls in Copen
hagen are reckoned among the best
The Swedish cities of Stockholm
and Gothenhurg were among the first
in Europe to have women police.
The Mass book used in Iceland has
been revised and everything sug
gesting woman's lnferority to man
has been omitted.
London has a banking Institution
controlled and managed by women
and with a clientage confined exclu
Ively to women.
New Zealand was the first country
in the world to acknowledge the po
litical equality of the sexes by giving
women full suffrage in 18!)3.
The first woman in China to be
qualified as a doctor is Dr. Ya Mei
Kin, who has practiced medicine in
her native country and in Japan anu
lectured in America and England.
It is proposed to introduce the com
munity laundry in the rural sections
of Ontario as one means of lighten
Iner the work of farmers' wives.
How to Tint Your
Gray Hair at Home
If your hair Is graying or Is faded
and streaked, do not let it become
any more unattractive. No matter
whether its original youthful color
was golden or black, or any shade of
brown, all you need Is a bottle of
Brownatone to instantly restore Its
beauty in a manner that defies detec-
Contains certain ingredients which
make it distinctively perfect.
It has the necessary adhering quality.
It acts as an astringent, contracting
the pores of the skin and producing
that baby softness.
It is daintily fragrant.
couldn't be better, though the price
were multiplied by ten.
A generous size box for 50c
Re MILLER Co,
230 W. 17th Sc.
Sold in all
Owl Dtvs Stores
and by other
ABLE TO DO
After LonjSufferirg Mrs.Siefert
Wai Restored to Health by
Lydia . Pinkham's Vegetable
PotUville. Pa.-"I suffered with
female trouble for four or five years
S11 f :: Ji'ti
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D. A. E. asks If there Is a rule re-
uiring the player who plays as
ummy to place his cards In a cer
tain position when placing mem
pon the table. There is no rule
governing the case, Dut it nas o
nnma the custom and Is regarded as
an act of courtesy for dummy's! cards And it wasn't.
to be placed to his right, ueciarer 1 when every one
generally places his trumps on his
left, and thus dummy's trumps are
opposite to his.
nV MARGARET NEWCOMBE.
HEN this little verse: ,
I want to give a party
Next Wednesday at three.
Wouldn't you like to come around
And play some games with me?
written on Mother Goose nursery
paper, reached 20 girls simultaneous
ly through the mail, they had no idea
what kind of an affair to expect.
"It just can't be a baby party," one
of them said, "wo had one last month."
had arrived the
hostess passed around first a basket
containing-small cards on which was
written, couple one, table one; couple
two, .table two; and so on, for the
five tables, just like any formal card
party. Then when every one was
seated she came around with little
pink crepe paper bags gathered up
with pink baby ribbon, and presented
every one with one. These are to
hold your scores," she told them.
The games at tne tables were a
weird conglomeration, although they
were all fun. In the center of . table
one was a very good replica of a
wedding ring about three inches
across made of a wooden embroidery
hoop wrapped with cotton and cov
ered with gilt braid. Around it was
ion. This famous preparation Is as
imple and easy to use as manicuring
Special Free Trial Offer.
Every package of Brownatone con
tains full, simple directions for work-
nr its magic on gray, faded or
streaked hair. Guaranteed absolutely
harmless. At all leading druggists in
50c and 11.60 packages. Two colors:
"Light to Medium Urown" and "Dark
Brown to Black." Send to the Kenton
Tharmacal Co.. 53S Coppin Bids.. Cov
ington, Ky.. enclosing 11 cents to pay
postage, packing and war tax. for a
free trial package of Brownatone.
and was very ir
regular. I was not
fit to do my work
at times and took
medicine from a
doctor and cot no
benefit. I saw
Lydia E. rink
tised in the news
papers and took
f and got all right,
pounds or more and am now able to
do my work. I recommend the Vege
table Compound to my friends and
you may use these facts as a testi
monial." Mrs. SALLIB bIF.FERT, 313
W. Fourth Street, Fottsville, Pa.
The everyday life of many house
wives is a continual struggle with
weakness and pain. There is nothing
more wearing than the ceaseless
round of household duties and they
become doubly hard when some fe
male trouble makes every bone and
muscle ache, and nerves all on edge.
If you are one of these women do '
not suffer for four or five years as
Mrs. Siefert did, but profit by her
experience and be restored to health.
Black and White Wool Shirt
Part of Smart Tuxedo.
Coat I Donble-Breasted and Hl
Bis Scarf Collar.
BRIDE PINCUSHIONS ARE LATEST FAD.
Z'e fatal mistake In the hand as first
played was in finessing the jack of
hearts at trick 1. This allowed B to
win the trick with queen and to give
his partner two ruffe in hearts, to
make two diamond tricks and himself
get a ruff in clubs before declarer
could get in the lead In all six
If Z had correctly understood the
principles governing leads, she would
have seen that danger lurked In A's
lead and would at one have put up
A smart eport costume worn at I
JTi Tuxedo combines a black and
with our lighter craft.' But the ene-
whlte wool skirt, white wool stock
ings and black laced boots, and gray
vicuna wool coat, rather short, with
fringe at the edge and a sash of the
wool, braided. The coat is double
breastfed and has a big scarf collar
that makes a choker, with tasseled
ends flying over one shoulder and
soft tam of the gray vicuna wool
matches the coat. Heavy white gloves
complete the costume.
Women are wearing heavy woolen
stockings and tan sport oxfords with
street costumes and one sees these
heavy stockings and sturdy shoes
even with afternoon frocks very In
appropriately for the dainty, formal
costume demands footwear of the
same type and with such costumes
the best dressed women affect but
toned boots with . moderately high
heels or buttoned spats with pumps.
Heavy footwear is all very well with
trotabout tailored clothes but is ex
tremely clumsy with frocks of dain
Intense colors characterize gowns
worn at the opera this winter, with
here and there a brilliant black gown
by way of contrast. One sees opera
gowns of cerise, of henna, of cherry,
ct turquoise, of peacock blue, of flam
ing orange and of coral. Some of
these gorgeous gowns are of velvet,
others are of satin or brocade. Tulle
Js usually Introduced In the bodice
to give soft lines. With the brilliant
gowns black wraps trimmed with
lynx are fancied and with black
gowns wraps cannot be too gor-teous..
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KOVELTT THAT MAT BE ISED AS FAVOR OR CARD PRIZE.
The newest conceit for the dressing
table is a bride pincushion and these
pretty little affairs are used for
favors at bridesmaid lunches. The
bisque dolly has real hair which
looks soft and alluring under the
tulle veil and wreath of orange blos
ribbon with French knots in yellow
oms; the latter la made of white
silk. The pincushion Is made of
shirred white ribbon and is partly
covered with the lace ruffle that
forms the bride's skirt. The tiny doll
with airy drapery of tulle makes a
dainty ornament for the boudoir and
the women seem to take delight In
these little pincushions when they
receive them as favors or card viUmm. ajjd all leading druggieta. Adv.
Is so soothing and cooling for
baby's tender skin after a bath
with Cuticura Soap.
ImmpU eh TnttT . A Mm: "CoWewmLaV
rtni,Ulrt 17S,Maldn4t. MaM " Sold ery
whfre. Sop2&c. lintmDt 2i slid 60c. Tmlcom Jbc
Cudcura Soap shavea without mug.
Hair Often Ruined
by Careless Washing
"I suffered from stomach trouble,
indigestion and constipation for a
number of years. Ad!er-i-ka gave me
almost INSTANT relief. I now have a
good appetite and sleep." (Signed)
Mrs. Sara Voth.
Adler-l-ka acts on BOTH upper and
lower bowel, removing foul matter
which poisoned stomch. Brings out
all gasses, relieving presure on heart
and other organs. EXCELLENT for
gas on the stomach or sour stomach.
Removes a surprising amount of foui.
decaying matter which you never
thought was in your, system and
which nothing else can dislodge.
Tends to CURB constipation and pre
vent appendicitis. Adler-i-ka sur
prises those who have used only
ordinary bowel and stomach medi
cines. Skidmore Drug Co., 151 Third,
Soap should be used very carefully
if you want to keep your hair looklns
Its best. Most soaps and prepared
shampoos contain too much alkali.
This dries the scalp, makes the hair
brittle and ruins it.
The best thing for steady use is
Mulsil'iod coco:itiut . oil shampoo
(which Is pure and greaseless) and is
better than anything else you can use.
One or two teaapoonfuls of Mulsi
fied will cleanse the hair and scalp
thoroughly. Simply moisten the hair
with water and rub it in. It makes an
abundance of rich, creamy lalher,
which rines out easily, removing ev
ery partlcie of dust, dirt, dandruff
and excessive oil. The hair dries
quickly and evenly, and it leaves the
scalp soft, and the hair fine and silky,
bright, lustrous, fluffy and easy to
You can get Mulsified cocoanut oil
shampoo at any pharmacy. It's very
cheap, and a few ounces wiil supply
every member of the family for
months. Be sure your druggist gives
you Mulsified. Adv.
A Simple Way to
There Is one sure way that has
never failed to remove aandruft at
once, and that Is to dissolve it, then
you destroy it entirely. To do this,
just get about four ounces of plain,
common liquid arvon from any drug
store (this is all you will need), ap
ply it at night when reiiring: use
enough to moisten the scalp and rub
it tn gently with the finger tips.
By morning most. If not all, of jour
dandruff will be gone, and three or
four more applications will completely
dissolve and entirely destroy every
single sign and trace of It, no matter
bow much dandruff you may have.
You will find all itching and dig
ging of the scalp will stop instantly.
and your hair will be fluffy, lustrous,
glossy, silky end soft and look and
teel a hundred times better Adv
1 noiwi U AT TIT
FOR A BAD COLD
Cet a small package of Hamburg
Breast Tea at any pharmacy. Take a
tablespoonful of this hambufg tea.
pat a cup of boiling water upon It,
pour through a sieve and drink a lea-
cupful at any time. It is the most
effective way to break a cold and
cure grip, as it opens the pores, re
lieving congestion. Also loosens the
bowels, thus breaking a cold at once.
It is inexpensive and entirely vege
table therefore harm 1 em U4v,