Image provided by: University of Oregon Libraries; Eugene, OR
About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (June 18, 1916)
7 BLACK CLEVERLY USED ADDS CHIC TO COSTUMES OF WHITE LINGERIE Despite Craze for Sports Styles, There Are Plenty of Suggestions for Dainty Afternoon Frocks Black-and-Vhite Striped Parasols Add a Correct Finish to the Costume Straight-Front Frocks Are Soon to Disappear. i - -3 r v - ' - - v ! f-J 1 V ' - ! j s f ! -f ' 'ia -4" J?" w"-?-,:- Sl. - - --Sit V r'rrrry-tl rt JJ s BLACK is used very cleverly to add chic to white lingerie costume this season. The black tulle skirt over a skirt of lace and under a bordered net tunic lends much distinction to this afternoon frock. White satin pipings on bodice, sleeve and tunic add novel trimming note.' The girdle is black satin, with tiny blue silk roses; the parasol, black and white dotted taffeta with black handle; the slippers, white washable kid; the hat. gray chip with silver lace, black velvet ribbon and a dull blue rose. Peapite the oraie for sport toggery Answers to Correspondents BY LIUAN TINXU. Portland. Or.. Jtprll 17. Will you kindly give directions for making rose Jars, or pot. ourt. or sachet powder, from rose petals. M'ould like also a recipe for making potato yeast. Thanking you in advance. Mrs. IS. 8. C. POT-POURRI may be either "wet" or dry. according to the purpose for which it Is intended. The rose petals are used as a basis, but gener ally other perfumed flowers and spices are added, the proportions being varied to suit personal taste and convenience. Orris root is frequently combined with the rose petals in the dry pot-pourri and in 'sachet powders. Sometimes different essential oils, purchased at the drug store, are added. Following are typical recipes: 1. Pot-pourri for Jars or sachets One-half ounce violet powder. V4 ounce orris root, teaspoon mace. 1 ounce dry powdered red rose leaves. te spoon powdered cinnamon. H teaspoon powdered cloves, 3a ounce heliolxupe there are plenty of dainty, feminine lit tle frocks for afternoon wear. Here Is a charming model of boldly checked voile in white and the new solfarine pink a little lighter than magenta. White voile is combined with the checked pattern to give the suggestion of contrast demanded this year and the sash of ribbon matches the pink in the voile. A black and white striped para sol and white washable kid slippers with silk stockings are what the cos tume needs for correct finish. The pink straw sailor is almost covered with white taffeta and a deep magenta pink powder. 4 drops oil of roses. 10 drops oil of chiris, 20 drops oil of melissa. 10 drops oil of eucalyptus. 10 drops oil of thyme, 1 teaspoon lemon extract. 10 drops oil of bergamot. 2 drahms al cohol; omit the alcohol If for sachets. Salted rose petals prepared as follows: Pack fresh, fragrant rose petals In two-inch-deep layers in a covered Jar. sprinkling about 2 tablespoons fine, dry salt between each layer. If you have not petals enough to fill the Jar at once, add a layer of roses and salt daily, keeping the jar in a cool, dry, dark place. Let stand a week after the jar is full. Then turn out the petals on a large platter, mix and toss until quite loose, then mix in the .other ingredients and pack into small deco rated rose jars. Let stand three or four weeks before uncovering. Keep well covered when not in use. For sachets' add a little bran to : avoid mnintiirit. 2. Pot-pourri" for' Jars Two ounces stick cinnamon. 2 ounces shredded orris velvet bow hides under a wreath of small white posies. Not fluttering with frills, but very, very chic and Parisian, is a new after noon frock of white silk with dashing lines of red In narrow satin ribbon and the very latest stand-up cape collar. This collar Is supported at the back of an almost invisible featherbone con traption and under the transparent cape is a yoke of the same net extend ing into sleevetops. The skirt combines white satin and pleated white faille. Red ribbons stitched on this faille panel and on the little vest of faille give a striped effect. The outward curve of the skirt below the waistline in front seems to threaten the long- retained straight-front effect. root, 'A ounce whole cloves. 2 ounces whole allspice. 2 ounces lavender flours, 4 tablespoons eau-de-cologne. & drops commercial oil of roses, rose petals. salt. . Gather fresh rose petals and let dry qnickly. When nearly dry place in a Jar with salt between the layers. Stir daily when adding fresh petals and salt. Let stand 10 days after the last petals are added, then add the spices, crushed and broken, stirring them well into the leaves. Let stand six weeks, then pack into small jars. adding the lavender, orris and oer fumes. Other perfume may be substi tuted for - eau-de-cologne, if liked. Keep closely sealed when not in ac tual use. Pot-pourri sachet powder One cup drid and crushed red rose petals, tablespoons dried lavender flowers. teaspoon crushed cinnamon. 4 crushed cloves, 2 tablespoons orris root. tablespoons dried and crushed lemon verbena. 1 tablespoon dried sweet briar leaves, or sweet balm. Mix and sew into small bags. Two drops oil of rose or 1 drop oil of bergamot (or both may be added if liked. Old-fashioned pot-pourri One peck half 'dried red rose petals, one handful each, .white-Jasmin flowers, 1 handful orange blossoms. lrounce sliced orris root, 1 handful lavender flowers, 6 bay leaves (broken), nnd ot one lemon dried, 2 tablespoons each cloves, cin namon and allspice berries, 2 table spoons each rosemary and sweet balm, dried. - Arrange in layers, sprinkling salt between each layer. Keep closed 10 days, then pour in Vx cup perfumed vinegar or alcohol. Keep tightly closed. From the above recipes you will see that rose Jars can be made to vary to suit personal taste and the available materials, the basis being always per fumed rose petals with a little salt and spices to prevent decay. Potato Yeast Four or 5 large pota toes. 3 quarts boiling1 water. 4 table spoons salt, cup sugar. 1 pint liquid yeast or 1 cake fresh compressed yeast, or 2 cakes dried yeast. Pare the pota toes. Let them stand in cold water and then grate them quickly into the boiling water.v and let cook about 10 minutes. Add the salt and sugar and let cool to lukewarm, or about 68 de grees Fahrenheit, then add the yeast or "starter", and beat well. If dry yeast is used soak it in a little luke warm water. If compressed yeast is used save out 1 tablespoon sugar and work the yeast to a cream with that or with a little water before adding it to the mixture. Let stand about 24 hours at a temperature of about 4S degrees Fahrenheit, stirring it as it becomes light and frothy. Half fill fruit Jars with the mixture. Keep tightly closed and store in a cool place. Use about ",i cup yeast to 1 pint liquid in bread-making. Use some of this to start the next batch. One teaspoon hops may be tied In muslin and boiled in the water if liked. Some makers boil and mash the potatoes instead of grating them. PALOTJSE. Wah., April 24. Will you please explain how the so-called "Ever lasting; or Liquid Yeast" la made. And also how to proceed with It in making, say three or four-loaves of bread. 1 mean tne liquid kind where you save a "starter" each time. Thanking you in advance. MRS. a. Make the yeast as above. For three or four, loaves of bread use 3 cups scalded and cooled milk or milk .and watar,.l cup yeast. 2 tablespoons short ening, 'l1 tablespoons sugar, '.: tea spoons salt, and ilour to make a soft kneading, dough. . If liked, two large potatoes may be boiled, mashed and added to the liquid. - Have the liquid lukewarm when - the yeast is added with the shortening, sugar and salt. Add flour to make a drop batter. Let rise over night. In Summer It may be made very early in the morning. When the sponge is well risen add flour to make ' a soft kneading - dough, and knead until soft, smooth and elastic; cover and let rise. Shape into loaves. place in greased bread pans, grease the tops, let- rise again, and bake 45 to 60 minutes, according to the size of the loaves. This. yeast tends to "run out" or be come poor after a while. If this hap pens, get a new starter or fresh yeast cake. PORTLAND, Or.. June 10. Would it be possible for you to publish In the Sunday uregoman -the receipt for doughnuts that appeared three years ago during the con test held by The Oregonlan? The receipt called for buttermilk, I think, and both cream of tartar and soda were used. The writer stated that it was the best receipt for doughnuts she - had ever used and I agree with her. But I have lost my receipt and I didn't make them often enough to remember Just the way they were made. X will greatly appreciate your help, and thanking you in advance for any you may give me, I am, an interested reader of your column. MJ1S. J. L. D. This is written with the Pacific Ocean rolling between me and my "recipe contest" scrapbook, and I find it is not possible for me to remember whether that particular recipe had any special "points" about it. 1 give below three doughnut formulas of varying richness, each calling for buttermilk, soda and cream of tartar. If none of these should be what you want, please write to me again in September.. Buttermilk Doughnuts (plain) One cup sugar. 1 tablespoon butter, 1 cup buttermilk, 1 egg, 1 teaspoons soda. 1 teaspoons cream of tartar, 1 tea spoons salt, 4 teaspoon (each) nut meg and cinnamon, flour to roll, about 4 cups usually. Rub the shortening into 3 cups' of the flour sifted with the dry Ingre dients. Mix with the buttermilk and the egg well beaten. Mix to a soft, rolling dough, adding flour as neces sary, but being careful not to get a hard, firm paste. Roll and cut care fully, so as to avoid having the dough stick to the board. Fry in crlsco or snowdrift oil. of such . a temperature that a half-inch cube of bread becomes a light brown in 60 seconds. Turn the doughnuts as they rise in the fat. Keep steady temperature and do not put in so many at once as to cool the fat unduly, or they will be greasy. Lirt with a wire egg beater, drain first over the pan, then on paper. Koll In sugar or not, as liked. Buttermilk Doughnuts No. Z. cup sugar, 2 tablespoons butter, l cup buttermilk. Z eggs. 1-Si teaspoons eacn soda, cream of tartar and salt, nut meg (or a mixture of nutmeg and cin namon, as preferred), trom to i teaspoon. Flour to roll. Cream the shortening and sugar, add the eggs. well beaten, and the milk, with Hour sifted with the dry ingredients to make a beating batter; beat thoroughly, then add Ilour to make a soft, rolling dough. Toss one-third of the mixture on floured board, knead very slightly, if necessary, roll out. cut. - try ana arain as above. Add the "trimmings to the Mrond batch of douarh. Buttermilk doughnuts ro. 3 one cup sugar. 214 tablespoons butter. 1 cup buttermilk. 3 eggs. 1 Vi teaspoons each soda and cream of tartar. It tea- spoons salt, nutmeg, cinnamon or nut meg and cinnamon to taste. Flour to- roll. Mix and fry like no. z. Bfaverton, Or., April 19. I m a reader of The Oresonlan and always find your col umns Interesting". Could you .please give me a recipe for rhubarb wine and oblige? Mrs. A. K. I think a recipe for rhubarb wine has appeared in this column since your letter was written.- I hope you saw it. If not, please write again and I will repeat as soon as the "time" limit" ex pires. As a rule most homemade wines are made by the following general formula: Crush or stew the fruit to extract the Juice. Add hot water and sugar to make a pleasant drinking mixture, not very sweet. Let drain like jelly. Add any spices or flavors desired in solid form. Let ferment. - When fermenta tion ceases, close the barrel. - Let stand three to six months before bottling and let lie in bottle several months before using. If the liquid is one that does not 'easily ferment, the fermentation is started by spreading a little yeast on a two-inch piece of toast and letting that float in the liquid. The bunghole may be pasted over with thin paper (which may break several times during fer mentation) and the barrel ehould be filled up from time to time (as it "wastes" in fermenting) from a reserve supply of juice kept in a stone jug. ' Some wines need to be cleared before bottling, with lslnglaBs or egg white: but care in siphoning off the liquor from the barrel will usually give a fairly clear rhubarb wine. Homemade wines contain alcohol and should never be given to children.. - ' Multnomah, Or., April 22. Will you give me through th. columns of The Sunday Oregonl.n a recipe for caramel frostlnc with nuts. One that 1. soft and creamy. Thank ing you in advance. R. 3- Nut caramel frosting 114 Cups light brown Bugar. hi cup white sugar, one third cup hot water, whites of 2 eggs. teaspoon vanilla, M cup broken walnut meats. Lightly caramelize M cup white sus-aiv letting It become a light brown only, so as to avoid the bitter taste of over-cooked caramel. Dissolve this In the hot water and add to the rest of the sugar. Boll to the heavy thread, as for ordinary white boiled frosting.-- Pour uoon the stiffly beaten egg whites and beat until creamy, setting the pan over hot w.er at Ar&t stage ol the beating, mr-- : : -itig) m and later removing, it. Then add the flavoring and nuts. The "softness and creaminess" in thus, as in any frosting, depends upon the skill of the maker recognizing the exact point aX which stop, boiling the syrup and beating the frosting. Kelso, vash., April- IT. Would von plp.se publish , a reclp. for pineapple S.vsrl.n cream. Also recipe for a white birthday csks, - as was .riven in the jrlx contest a couple of years sso. Think it called for blanched almoncs. Yours truly. Mrs. J. Following Is a recipe ' for a white birthday cake, but I cannot be certain (for reasons explained above) that it is the eamt one that appeared in the con test. White" fruit cake cut butter. 1H cups sugar. H cup milk. 2H cupj flour, sifted with 24 level teaspoons baking powder, whites of 6 eggs beaten with 4 teaspoon each salt and cream of tartar. 1 cup blanched almonds cut Into shreds. 1 cup white sultanas or chopped candied pineapple or a mixture of the twot A few sliced candied cher ries may be added if liked, or the fruit may be omitted and the almonds used alone1 if preferred. If almonds only are used a somewhat lighter cake may be obtained by using eight instead of six eggs. Mix by the usual method for white butter cakes. Ice with white Icing or leave plain as preferred. Pineapple Bavarian Cream Two tablespoons granulated gelatine, cup cold water. 1 can grated pineapple, H cup sugar. 1 tablespoon lemon juice. Whip, from 3 cups cream. Soak the gelatine In the water until fully swoll en, then dissolve by heating with the pineapple, sugar and lemon juice. Chill and stir. When it begins to thicken fold in the whipped cream, mold and chill or pile in tall individual glasses. The amount of sugar may vary a little with the varying sweetness of the pine apple. Unless the pineapple is very tart (which seldom happens) the lemon juice is necessary to bring out the full flavor of the fruit. " GAS BELIEVE DSLIDE CAUSE fContlnued Prom Page 2.) uncommon. Drilling, I believe, also would determine whether or not there was gas along the fault. Let us admit for the moment that my judgment is correct. It is not unrea sonable to suppose that, if gas was con fined iff subterranean caverns or old and extinct craters, it would seek to escape at a point where the resistance was the 1-ast. If the channel was open and the material soft, it would not cause a tremendous upheaval if it could escape along the crack in the earth's crust, loosely filled with clay and erup tive rook. The presence of this crack or break indicates a previous eruption of confined gases. Now the great Culebra cut. made in digging the canal, must have further reduced the resistance offered to the gas struggling to escape, so that it would seem not altogether unreason able tc inquire whether or not the so called slides at this point were not in reality caused by earth waves, sympa thetic seismic disturbances, due wholly to thd presence of the gas beneath the bottom of the canal at this point. When those movements came, the banks of the canal shook a great deal of stone and earth, it is true, slid into the canil. but the greater part of the trouble was due to the earth in the bot tom of the canal rising up to the sur face of the water and filling the canal and forming islands amidstream. The theory of the canal engineers is that beneath the rock through which the canal is cut there is a substratum of mud and soft earth. The weight of the tor'; and earth on either side of the canal, resting on this soft layer of mud, causveo it to ooze into the canal, and thu3 produces the greater part of the trouble. Their remedy for this Is to re duce the weight on top of the mud. that is. tut down the banks on cither side almost to water level for some dis tance bnck, until an "pngle of repose" is reached. It is witjh this hope that the engi neers are now removing an immense amount of earth aed reck from the Culebra banks. In support of this theory, the engineers call attention to the fact that at a point in the canal where a smaller disturbance occurred the banks were cut down and there was no repetition of the trouble, thus constituting a strong presumption that the proper cure for the so-called slides had been found. , However, there is ground for the con clusion that the reason the smaller stopped was because the larger movement at Culebra had begun. The ga. escaping easily at Culebra. ceased to go omo the other plane and cause eruptions there. Remedy la Still Problem. Suppose a broken water pipe In a house is flooding the bathroom. If the water main with which the water ptpe is connected at some point beyond the house be severed. th water will dis- J charge at the point of the break. In the Advance Announcement! CORSETS AT NEW PRICES On and After Saturday, July 1st, 1916 The retail price of certain Nemo Corsets heretofore sold at $3.50 ( $"76 WILL BE ADVANCED TO) 9 This Includes the Following Numbers; SELF-REDUCING Nos. 310, 315, 316, 318, 319, 321, 322, 324, 326, 344 and 345 MATERNITY No. 300 KOPSERVICE Nos. 305, 307 This slight advance, -which has heen compelled by the greatly increases! cost of all kinds of corset-materials, repre sents only a small part of the higher cost of manufacturing. "We are forced to raise prices or sacrifice quality, and NEMO QUALITY WILL NEVER BE LOWERED The same cause may compel an advance in the retail prices of other Nemo mbdels in the near future. KOPS BROS.. MaMufttctmrm mf NEMO CORSETS. Nmm York main and cease to flow- in the bath room. It will not mean that the leak in the water pipe has been repaired, but that the water has found another and larger opening through which to escape. Once it is established that the gas beneath the canal bottom causes the islands of mud and rock and material to rise to the surface, the remedy of course would lie in finding some other way or place for those gases to escape. Again, for comparison, the water tap in your house is broken or out of com mission in your bathroom and you are unable to locate where the main water pipe enters your lawn. You get a pail arfd continue to dip the water out of the tub to keep it from flooding the house. You may continue to dip as long as the water runs. If you can not locate the feeder or connection to your main, you must go to the reservoir and there shut off the main. When the reservoir overflows, change the course of the water so that it will not inter fere with your residence. This is the condition at Culebra cut. They can continue to remove this mov ing material that is filling up the waterway with their great powerful dredges, and hold back the flow for a time, but unless the supply is changed to some other course at the source, it ' may never stop until nature changes it. Of course. 1 am well aware that there are many skeptics who will insist that the cause and the remedy that I have suggested ,are unreasonable. I am aware, too. that the fact that most eminent engineers hive held otherwise is not a strong recommendation for such a theory. However. I am re minded that some of tho most eminent of the world's geologists have been re versed by nature, and it is not beyond possibility that they may again be wrong, as there are many of the earth's geological conditions that are yet un written. Every An. 1. 1. nee Iff Give. It will doubtless occur to one that, if there is anything In the theory I have advanced, it is strange that no one of the canal or Army engineers has ad vanced or investigated such a possi bility. That is just what occurred to me and it is a fact, beyond dispute. that General George W. Goethals and his staff of Army, as well as civil, engineers- are among tho best and most wonderful construction engineers that the world has ever produced. The construction, the finish, the per fect completion of the locks and the canal Itself command the admiration of the world. They served their pur pose well and their great efforts must not fail. There is a problem yet to solve, which is no fault of theirs. They are educated, refined and able gentle men. They extended every courtesy to me and my engineer: they gave us the courtesy of the Government railroad; they extended to us the best of the Government electric launches to in vestigate every inch of the Culebra cut and the disturbances therein. I They freely granted every privilege and every convenience to make the in vestigation and freely soiurht any in formation or suggestions that might tend to solve the problem which Is caus Ing the "unfortunate conditions at the Culebra cut and preventing passage in the world's greatest Waterway and the greatest enterprise that has ever been undertaken and built by human hands. They even placed at our disposal one of the best geologists tn the Govern ment service an eminent and able gentleman, now connected with the geological department in the bureau of mines Donald F. MacDonald, who will Ingly exchanged his ideas and gladly considered any that we had to offer. . While I could not agree with some of his opinions regarding the situation. yet I respect and admire his ability, but still cling to my own ideas, which can only be considered after the present theory fails. .Mlnlag Experle.ee Eaplorei. While the college men have had every advantage from- a scholarly standpoint one must make some con cessions for the man who has acquired nis xnowieage and education to a great degree and was trained from early lire by actual contact with geological conditions, who has been forced to solve these problems involving the ac tions of the earth with which he was confronted, and who had had long years 01 experience In combating them. Those eminent gentlemen mentioned above may not be mining engineers. Tney may never have had the oppor tunity or many long years of -under ground experience and they. too. in time, may be willing to concede to the practical fellow some knowledge along tnose lines. My experience with gases covers SO years in mines and underground work In almost every capacity from general manager of large productive properties oown to 1001 ooy. wnerr 1 was rirst employed underground. This period Includes experience in Utah, as well as the five adjoining mining states. It is that knowledge and experience with careful study and many tests and the analyses of eruptive rocks that iuxa in duced me to place before you soma facts in my experience. For Instance, there is a shaft in Park City, in the state of Utah, at the present day known as the No. 2 Ontario three-compartment shaft. There was taken out In the excavation and sink ing of this shaft some 12,000 cubic feet of material per hundred feet of depth as it was originally Bunk. Afterward 18.000 cubic feet of material was taken from 100 feet of this shaft each year for 15 years. A crew of men was em ployed continuously behind those tim bers to keep the shaft open. Oregon fir timbers. 12 Inches square, would be broken sometimes over night- The shaft was sunk pome 1500 feet. The whole shaft was not closed u nor movlgn, but different sections therein. In one section of 300 feet the management cut around 10 or Is feet of space behind the timbers. put ting head-boards and braces to steady the timbers. These would sometime stand for 30 or 60 days, and at occa sional periods only over night. This whole breast of rock would move, crushing the timbers in the shaft and wedging itself in there so closely that powder would have to be used to re move it. There was no visible means of find ing out where the rock came from and no known space made vacant by the supply It was furnishing, but the move ment was continuous, to my knowledge, for 15 years, until the shaft was aban doned. The reason for keeping it open, for this long period was that it was producing more than 11.000.000 net in precious metals every year. It was then owned and controlled by Haggia and his associates. Gtm Discovered to Be Cause. Another experience in the old mine) known as the Crescent, in the same district. In driving a tunnel, the track; in the bottom would sometimes rise two feet over night. We would remove the material and replace the track and it might stand for 30 days, and then, the movement would start again and the whole drift would crowd in. One morning a shift of men under my supervision went into the face of this tunnel to drive ahead, and the timber men completed and installed, just be hind the men. a set of 12-inch square Oregon fir timbers. At 11:30 A. M. the movement came and broke those tim bers like matches and the men on the outside had to dig around the bottom of the timbers in order to get the men out alive. This set of fine new timbers had only been in place and completed three and one-half hours. I took one of the foremost geologists in this country in there to investigate. He informed me that it was the great pressure of water above and behind this porphyry or eruptive rock that was" causing it to swell. I believed it for a time and I drove on ahead until we struck another vein of the same kind of material and, when I visited my men one morning, they were then in a hard formation between the two eruptive breaks, or so-called veins. The tunnel they were working in waa about five by aeven feet. The forma tion was a hard, sllicious limestone with small specks of porpliyry. or trachyte, appearing in it, and the breast waa popping or cracking like cannons on a battlefield. Little, thin scales of rock were breaking off the face of the drift as thin as a pane oC glass. We were puzzled to know what caused the noise. There must have been some tremendous pressure behind that was causing the chipping off of the rock in the face of the drift. They drilled on some 12 feet farther and the drills passed into soft material. When they did, a terrific pressure of gaa came out of the drill openings. They asked me to come in. -They said that there was an air channel and a terrible pressure of air coming in. They did not realize It was gas and could hardly conceive it was an air channel, because they were 800 feet vertically below the surface. The gas was soon discovered, be cause four or "five of the men were overcome by it In a few minutes and had to be carried out by fresh men. Of course, the men could smell and realized that the air was not fresh, but they thought that the gas had come from the powder that had been used there a few hours before. We now have drifts in this same property that have been abandoned because there was no mineral passing through them, where hundreds of feet are absolutely closed up. In order to open them again we would have to use as much powder as we did in the original excavation, and the only way that one would ever know there had been a drift there would be by finding the timber in places smashed into splinters, and in the cracks and splinters the rocks wedged as tightly as they were before the ground was first opened. William H.rlow Tteed. professor of geol oirv In Wyoming Vnlverslty until his re cent fle.th. had the honor of finding wrtat Is s.ld to be the largfat skeleton of a dinosaur ej-r ntscovered. Tn find was made in VO'omlriS'.