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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (May 14, 1916)
7 can gold coin packed into a loving cup. GRADUATION COSTUME IS SIMPLE BUT PRETTY ENOUGH FOR DANCES the result of his American tour. Sev eral artists including Paderewski, Casals and Miss Fitxul are planning to give an Immense benefit concert for SUGGESTIONS ARE MADE TO SUMMER HOSTESS SUGGESTION: Antic ipate your Nemo needs before prices advance. the children. TTTTC fsnrTTOAT CVRHOOTSTTATV. POlTTLAXr- MAT 14, 1916. i ' White Georgette and Crepe de Chine Form Basis of Gown Tunic, Tucked by Hand, Falls Over Skirt That Is Faced With Light Featherbone. II;.-;--.--;-1 j? 4 v jr j-,--'--. h ; ' ,V i ' ': I f, - J ill . a lis i i i - 114 ell .- e mi . r J Til 1 ' I 4 ii. i I .: , It i tit vi rw . . t.'I I 1 I A If V :,M - i - t a I I. .. . .: - MM I xi ui rv an ouiitmer is a. i uue 15 ry.11- 1 -w f X f w . U tort V- i f- -nOv Wl f : II I I II H : 1 II II 111 fcT l W" mm? a v. ' r 1 1 V 111 1 1 kRETTT enough to serve as a dance frock all Summer is a June grad uating dress of white Georgette and crepe do chine. The Georgette tunic, tucked by hand, floats over a skirt of white crepe de chine, faced at the foot with the light, lacy feather bone stiffening which comes for skirts of this sort. The bodice has a most graceful fichu of dotted net and the frilled sleeves are dainty and cool, which are sufficiently long to give dig nity to the graduating costume. A clever Idea is shown in a. little frock which combines dotted and bor . dered net with crisp organdie, the lat ter giving a smart, flaring effect on the softer net. The flounces are of organdie, cut on the bias and very nar rowly hemmed, and the puffed sleeve is also of organdie. A wide girdle of white taffeta ribbon is drawn around the waist and fastens under a cluster of June daisies. Buttoned boots of white washable kid and a white ribbon hairbow complete a simple but admir ably correct graduating costume. The complete effect of one new frock Is simple and youthful, as a graduating frock should be, but study the model and you will find what a very elegant little costume it really is. Embroi dered net forms the front panel and Jumper bodice, mounted over white lace, and yards and yards of fine net frilling are set on the eleeves and gathered skirt of net. Buttoned boots of white washable kid accompany the white frock. Petticoats Are Smart, The smartness that is only skirt deep has no attraction at all for the woman whose knowledge of, and fondness for, lress is a deep-rooted and not merely an acquired taste. Under the "hobble" tyranny, it is true, opportunities for much variety were, in a double sense. limited, and the narrow proportions of the tube skirt excluded anything in the nature of "fussy" underwear. But the rout or the petticoat and the suppres isiuii 01 me iriu notwithstanding, no woman has regarded the question of lingerie as a secondary consideration, and hardly had the wide skirt come into being than the petticoat resumed its rustling sway once more. Further. ji openiy aeciares its presence, ignor ing the ancient, if unwritten, law that a petticoat, though it may be heard. nnuuju never De seen. The Kneisel Quartet has returned from its Western tour which carried this noted organization as far as the Pacific Coast. In addition to the rare delight experienced by lovers of en semble music Willem Willeke. the cellist, was heard in solo numbers and immediately carried conviction that he one of the rarest artists of his in strument before the public today. Mr. Willeke is more that a great cellist. He is an admirable musician which he proved by playing several numbers which he arranged for the cello. Next season Mr. Willeke will fill a number of engagements as soloist but not to the exclusion of his important post as cellist of the ICneisel Quartet. Following the closing exercises of the Institute of Musical Art where Mr. Kneisel and his associates are at the heads of the different departments of string instruments, they will go as usual to their home in Blue Hill, Me., which tra.s become one of the most noted Summer musical centers of this country. Among the artists brave enough to sail for Italy were Luclan Muratore and his wife Lin a Cavalierl. It is un derstood that they have a very import ant engagement to make moving pic tures in Rome. Another member of the operatic circle leaving these shores was Erma Zarska whose debut in Lohengrin was one of the unhappy mo ments of the season. The Festival seems to be in full swing and it may be added that never has there been more brilliant artists to participate in the programme. Paterson inaugurated its festival April 5. at the Fifth Regiment Armory with night of American music. The artists were Miss Anna Case, soprano of the Metropolitan Opera Company, ' who sang numbers by Alexander Russell, Harriett Ware, Charles Gilbert Spross, Edward Horsman and MacDowell. Merle Alcock. the contralto who was ngaged by Walter Damrosch to sine some of the incidental music in Mar garet Anglin's performances last Sum mer in the Greek Theater at Berkeley. Cal., sang the prologue to "Iphigenia Aulls," by Walter Damrosch. and songs by Mary Helen Brown. F. M.rris Class and John Adams Loud. The Fes- Ival chorus of 1UU0 voices under di rection of C. Mortimer Wiske sang three prize cantatas written especially for this festival. They were "Onowa." first prize. by Franz Bornschien; "America." second prize, by Carl Hus h and "Miracle of Time," by W. Franke larling. third prize. In the last num ber a chorus of 500 school children was heard. In addition to these works. J. K. Palne's "Island Fantasy" and W. H. Humiston's "Southern Fantasy" were orchestral selections of the programme. A great programme was given on the second evening when the soloists were Frieda Hempe, soprano; Mme. Mat- zenauer. contralto: Rlccardo Martin, tenor, and Allen Hinckley, basso. It is reported that these artists enjoyed a sensational success. The final event called "Tri-City Night," was devoted to the Berloiz Requiem, in which the tenor part was sung by James Harrod. tenor, and a local artist, Barbara Bourhill, soprano. While all the East is beginnig to interest Itself in open-air perform ances this season to witness some of the most important probably ever given, California points with pride to the regular series of grove plays which have interested the Bohemian Club and ts friends and guests for many years n the Redwoods of California. Some of the most noted composers of this country have written the music and books for these events, among whom may be mentioned Henry Hadley, W. J. ftici.oy ana other Calirornians. rr. H. J. Stewart and Frederick S. Myrtle are collaborating ror the grove play of the Bohemian Club to be produced in Au gust. As stated already in these columns the company which is project ing tne open-air performance of Verdi s Requiem to be given at the Polo Grounds, New York. Sunday afternoon. June 4, is planning a series of these performances If the first presentation under Louis Koemmenich is a success. Ifomc-Maclc Garments in Vogue. Lace-trimmed petticoats of wash satin are being seen under the short skirts of the present vogue. Now billow of lace Is seen where heretofore plain silk petticoaat filled the bill. The latest petticoats are in the pastel snaoes and some are trimmed almost to the belt line with rows and ruffles of lace. A great number of skirts of this order have been noticed and upon Investigation it was round in many cases they were made by dressmakers or at home. By buying the fabric and the lact. two-thread German and French Val are more generally used, the expense of the garment is greatly reduced, thus the reason for home tal ent productions. Hot Meats and Highly Flavored Soups Will Not Appeal to Guests in Warm VTOR Months as Will Fruit Cocktails. M TS 1 : Economy y FASHION ) hC Health " p H ' I WISE. WO MEN . U ';' . KNOW WHY! J V t ? 'v''4 &L-?TJ ' - - "MEMO Relief Bands -... Mlrr' rl 1 : X five the very best : '"SLJ -1 sit- Kr5'U C '.' ' .) support for full figures of a v; ij. ... i r; "J.'V S5SS fjr; certain type. They gather r-"' ' " ' C'"""" "ssSS ; ut a heavy abdomen, sup- W- '-?--i- x'SP- "-c: - port it, and reduce it j ,'s5S?-: permanently with delight- f. .:Pr. : :--E : t ful comfort. mm gssss- ? $4.oo ill i -ift"! 1 ? W iSsh. . l 1M lit a 1 6 1 A . f 1 1 I I ,U V V i U i - :k. 111 I tVulrPJ Lsi:: .. i I F dlnnor-Kivinjc Is an art dur ing the "Winter months, it is even more of an art when sultry weather adds to tho problems ' of the hostess. Li Kin must be arranged to illuminate the table sufficiently without draughts to flutter candleshades, and all deco rations muKt euLcest daintiness rather than sumptuousneKs, as befits the sea son when anything overpowering even a dinner-card ia a bore. Above aM, the menu must be fas tidiously planned for capricious ap petites. The heavy roasts, highly flavored soups, and hot puddings served in Winter will have no appeal to guests at a June or July dinner party. Fruit cocktails, plentifully Iced, cold bouillon flecked with whipped cream, a bit of fish exquisitely sauced and served with sprigs of green, fowl deli cately prepared and served with pota to croquet, asparagus and French peas, a crisp salad Just off the ice. a frozen pudding, and a deml tasse in dimly lighted drawing-room or. better still. on the terrace this constitutes a Sum mer dinrver menu of charm and satis faction for guest and hostess alike. Shaded candles have a cooler sug gestion than unshaded ones, and green and white, or yellow and white is pleasing color scheme for the bummer dinner table. Do not overdo the mat ter of flowers. Three spikes of narcis sus In a water-filled Japanese flower- holder will be much more appealing than two dozen roses heavily dropping their heads as the room becomes warmer. If dinner-hour ts set at seven and the dtr.ing-room windows command view of the sunset, let the meal begin In the sunset light, fading to twilight. then to dark, the shaded table candles I beginning to make their soft gleam felt as the outer lights fade away. Admirably suited, for a warm- weather dinner are the dainty place! cards pictured. Th flower decorations are In delicate tints and the wreaths and festoons In Km pi re effect are es pecially graceful. Two long, narrow cards with uprights of cardboard at th back, are in pale green wavy stripes on a gray ground. Medallions. 1 set off from the striping by slender nt'8, are ready for the guests name. I The tiny basket of roses at the (op of one of these cards ts a beautiful specimen of hand watercolor work. The same designs appear tn smaller place cards, and for a yellow and white din ner the jonquil decorations will be I exactly the thing. Coffee and cigarettes are served tn drawing-room or music-room, or out 1 on the terrace or veranda rarely now adays in the dining-room; and this adoption of an English custom has I brought to the shops many and. new devices for coffee service. An after-dinner smoking set is of clear fragile glass rimmed with silver. which will be brought in by foot man or maid, after coffee has been served, on a silver and glass tray. There are two matchbox holders. silver-handled receptacle for perfumed cigarettes, and a set of individual ash receivers, each guest to help himself I or herself to an ash-receiver with cigarette. Self-Reducing Three models in this line: 405 For tall, stately ta figures; hit h bust and I back; sizes 22 to 36 403 Same, for full 6gurea' of medium height ml prime favorite .... 402 Same, but for short, stocky full figures VERY GREAT VALUES! $4 Every Nemo is an extra value simply as a corirt. For the health features, which are priceless, you pay nothing extra. Good Stores Everywhere $3.50, $4, $5 and up Hniak-Fia lartkata. Hnr Talk AlittteCareand AMeCuticura LEGAL SIDELIGHTS FOR LAWYERS AND LAYMEN BT nETSELLE O. E. CORTI9H, OF PORTLAND BAR. CRITICISM IS MADE OF LICENTIOUS APPEAL NOTED IN RUSSIAN BALLET Emilie Frances Bauer Comments on Attitude of Diaghileff and Expresses Hope That Objectionable Features Will Be Modified Before Country Tour Is Made in Fall, or Unpleasant Results Are Predicted. EMILIE FRANCES BAUER. 1 performance of the above named work i has already been ivv luitiv, .May 13. (bpecial.) '"America s morals are saved." It mar Sundellus will b;mm 9 mrmhor r th. announced Marie "X T IX With the last performance of the ' Russian dancers at the Metro politan and the return of the Metro politan Opera Company from their At lanta appearances, with no straggling concerts on the horizbn the present season of music may be called fin ished. The Russian ballet with Diashileff. but without Xijinsky, is scheduled to sail Tuesday for Spain where the com pany will rest after its performances at the Madrid Opera-Houses are com pleted. It is announced that when this organization will return in the Fall it will come as a private enterprise of Otto H. Kahn, but with no other direct relation to the Metropolitan Opera Company. This is a fine organization and it has brought new emotions and appreciation of a novel nature to many. It is a pity, however, that so much of the beauty is wasted upon the licentious side of life. Nothing can be so beautiful as the human form and in artistic and poetic pantomime, the imagination mieht rove into the loveliest ideals, but there is no modification which could make "Scheheredade" and several other of the pantomime and dances anything but just what they are distinctly nasty. Much sarcasm and many point ed remarks of a supercilious nature were launched at the decent-minded people of this community when the law compelled a certain degree of modification. one recalls with aneer the bitter manner in which Mr. Diaghi- Jcas said when lie witnessed a revised may be well to teach the impresario a few truths about some of America's "prudes" and it were well if the lesson might be learned before the company undertakes a tour through the country. It may be that New York has become sufficiently cosmopolitan to endure all sorts of disgusting exhibitions be cause be it understood New York en dures anything rather than go to the trouble of correcting or removing a nuisance, but other sections of the country are still sufficiently virile and energetic to show its repugnance in no uncertain manner. Two members of the company in addition to Xijinsky will remain in this country. They will go Into vaudeville. The longest Metropolitan season closed Saturday night in Atlanta when Mme. Alda and Caruso appeared in "La Boheme." Following the 20 weeks at the Metropolitan, the company went for three weeks to Boston and from there to Atlanta where a week of gala performances closed the season of 1915-16. It is understood that more firmly than ever Mr. Gatti-Casazza is opposed to make tours with this tre mendous organization which will take two special trains to carry 300 people from Atlanta back to New York. Most of these artists will remain in America in consequence of which a new phase of Summer life and musical activity will no doubt be inaugurated. Mr. Gatti Casazza is not sailing this year and is planning to make up his company from the people already under contract and from those who are ia Lai country. As company and other engagements in clude Kathleen Howard, the contralto, and Thomas Chalmers, baritone, who has made a tremendous success on tour with the Boston Opera Company. Among those who sailed last week were Urlus, the Hu tch tenor, and Emmy Destinn. Mme. Polacco sailed some weeks ago and has arived safely but it is doubtful that Mr. Polacco. the val uable conductor of the Metropolitan, will sail at all this year. A great gloom hangs over the Metropolitan on account of the death of Granados who had become a favorite with everyone connected with that house. Just how the fate of man hangs in a balance may be realized from the story as follows: Granados and Anna Fitziu. the brilliant young American singer who made her debut at the Metropolitan In 'Goyes- cas." the Spanish opera which had its world premiere at the Metropolitan and for which the Spanish composer was in this country, were engaged for a con cert in Havan: Inasmuch as R. E. Johnson. also the manager for Godowsky. did not want to interfere with his success and did not want Granados and Miss Fitziu to go into that country at exactly the same time he asked that they postpone their trip two weeks. Granados. however, with his wife had become so lonesome for their six children that he did not want to wait and no inducement however flattering could make htm change his mind, ine bussex which sank carried not only the ill-fated composer and his wile but lie took wiUi turn ia Auari- OT the proper place If you feel 1 while traveling don't faint In the aisle of the day coach and annoy your fellow traveler, for the railroad company may not like it. The case of Chicago, etc., Ry Co. v. Fisher, 110 N. E. 240 will show you why. In this case several drunken men had indulged in a brawl in the smok ing car. When the train stopped all but ons of tin drunken men got off. The remaining member of the party went into the day coach and as he was walking down the aisle he fainted from loss of blood and fell against the plain tiff, a young woman, injuring her. The plaintiff sued the railroad com pany, who defended on the ground that their liability to a passenger for the misconduct of a fellow possenger was contingent, depending upon the carrier having knowledge of. or being reason ably able to apprehend the misconduct of the passenger, in tnis instance tne railroad company claimed it could not reasonably have anticipated that the safety of the passenger in the day coach was threatened and an injury likely to occur because of the previous fight in the smoking-room, especially in the absence of am averment that the passenger had fallen upon the In jured person as a result of his intoxication. The court held, however, that tne railroad company, while not an Insurer for the safety of passengers, is in duty bound to protect them, as far as pos sible from violence committed by co passengers In this case the company's employes, having knowledge of the fight tn the smoking car. were negli gent In permitting a "drunk, angry. bleeding, wean ana paie passenger 10 enter the coach where ladies were seated, and it was held responsible for the Injury resulting to the plaintiff. Dead Ones. New Jersey has been known as the state of many live cor porations, but at least one of Its or ganizations prefers to be known as dead at least for the purposes of tax ation, as witness the case of the Mauso leum Builders of New Jersey vs. the State Board of Taxes and Assessments. S AtL 44. The mausoleum company erected large building containing some 400 crypts, which were to be sold "to such persons as may desire them as a per petual resting place for the dead." and they claimed exemption from taxation , aiwittf a law at Xw Jeraur. wluua ax empted from taxation "graveyards no exceeding 10 acres of ground, ceme teries and buildings for cemetery use erected thereon." The court, however, ruled that the Legislature could hardly, in passing the law. have had in mind such a structure as was involved in the case, since such buildings were not then known or contemplated. A mausoleum for private use was to be differentiated from one erected and maintained as a structure in which the sale of space was made a matter of commercial enterprise con ducted by a pilvate business corpora tion. Pine tii mausoleum company waa sufficiently alive to do business for profit, it vas evidently not too "dead to pay taxes." A perilous staircase A landlord must i'se due care to make his stair rases safe for his tenant. Tn the case of Agatstein vs. Stark. 156 N. Y. S. 3&3, a tenant slipped on a crushed pear and sued the landlord for his conse quent damages on the ground that the staircase was so Insufficiently lighted that he was unable to observe the ob struction in his way. The landlord defended on the ground that the accident had been caused by the act of some unknown person In dropping the pear on the landing and that since the pear and not the ab sence of light was the primary cause of the accident he could not be held responsible. The court however, decided that the landlord "could reasonably foresee that In a hallway of a tenement house peo ple frequently drop vegetables and other articles that may be a cause of injury Ao others and that the very purpose of requiring an owner of a tenement house to keep the hallways lighted up Is to ena'ble those lawfully upon the premises to go up and down without slipping over defects or ob structions which might be present in the hallways." The landlord, therefore, being res ponsible for the peril of his staircase, was also responsible for the pear. Dream stuff Dissatisfied purchasers have more than once been heard to ad vance the opinion that mining promot ers were all too prone to base their representations upon "the stuff that dreams are made of." Perhaps that is what the clalrovyant was thinking of In the case of Reese vs. Fidelity & De ..vuiut Company, Hi a. Y. s, muS, wbaa he took out a burglar insurance policy and stated In it that he was a mining promoter. When a burglary subsequently oc curred In the policy holder's apart ment, the company repudiated the pol Iry on the ground that it was voided by "false and misleading representations." A hard-hearted court upheld the in surance company, and refused the re covery on the ground that the "risk was changed" by the policyholder's change of occupation. Practical Hint Given. Supposing one is the possessor of a gown made with a gulmpe of tucked net and feels the latter is too trans parent for street wear, let her bring It Into practical use by running a one inch band of satin ribbon (the color of the net), edging with narrow Val enciennes lace, also same shade, slight ly rriuea as it is sewed on the upper portion 01 tne sleeve ana then down to the wrist. This adds rather than de tracts from the beauty of the sleeve and. of course, gives a more substantial appearance than the plainly tucked sleeve. The yoke will require no changing. It will probably be quite small, avnyway. BoWondeisfor Hairand SMn The Soap to cleanse, purify and beautify, the Ointment to soothe and heal. Sample Each Free by Mall With 32-p. Pkln Bonk on request. Ad tirvse post-card "n ti-or. Dept. 204iv tVaaten. Hold throughout the world. To Keep the Face Fresh, Clear, Youthful Smart Accessories Many. Nothing will give the Spring street costume such compelling smartness as new boots, new gloves and a new veil. Even last year't tailleur will pass mus. ter If correctly equipped with modish accessories. Do not wait for warm enough weather to make pumps com tortaoie and sale, invest this month in the smartest pair of Spring but toned boots you can find. They will give Incalculable style to your street costume. You will need fresh Snrlnir gloves also of glased kid in bisque or white, and your veil will be preferably taupe-colored, of very fine, transparent hexagon or lattice mesh with a dainty hand-run leaf pattern or infinitesimal dot scattered over the surface. Tlie Owl a Sort or Cat. Philadelphia Star. A woman selecting a hat at a mil liners asked, cautiously: "Is there anything about these feathers that might bring me Into trouble with the Bird Protection Society?" "Oh. no. .madam." the milliner said. "But did they not belong to some blrdr' the woman persisted. "Well, madam." the milliner re turned, pleasantly, "these feathers are the feathers of m bowl, and the howl. you know, madam, seeln' as 'o w fond e is 01 mice, la more 01 a cat than a PUU- More Important than tho eosxnotlo car of the complexion is Its physical care. To keep the race clean, fresh, youthful, there's Rothlnv better thaa common mercolised wax. It absorbs tbe soiled or faded worn out akin part I .rle. Cootlcs simply add unwholaomenesa to tho complexion. That's tho difference. Hy all meano. acqutro tho mercolized wax 'habit. It's so easy to set aa ounce of tho wax at the drut-siat'. appir at nlsbt like cold cream andT wash It oft next morning. There's no detention Indoors, tho old sklu coming off so gradually no one uspects you're ualng anything. When la a woek or two tho alluringly youthful, roaetike tinderakln is fully In view well, you won't want, or need, a makouo com plexion aftar that. It muat bo apparent that thia prorM mana complete rtddanco of ail culaneoua blemlshe. like freckles, pimplea. blotches and blackheads. For obatmate wrinkles, a faro bath mart by dleaolvlng an oune of aaxollte In a bait pint witch haael lurpaauM maaaaae cream and everything f!w for reauMa Adv. "URIC ACID NEVER CAUSED RHEUMATISM" I WANT to proT it to iw ntf factino. If you hmm Rbumum or Neurit., vmt or enroatr oa mttr vbu Tour conflitir.o writs u-rty ! my FRtK book on 'RHEl'MATISM-Ifi C.mu Cura." TbouMndtnl! If "TM tnw woodrrrul hook ever wrifc . 1 I rnrl tium?'lti ABMlLCTtLTf r K r C, aJtfc A-