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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Jan. 5, 1908)
6 THE SUNDAY OREGONIAX. PORTLAND, JANUARY . 1908. Military Effect in Mid-Winter Suits WITH the advancing season, mili tary effects in women's raiment are more and more pronounced. There are various reasons for this. First, the Louis coat. This elegant gar ment, designed especially for reception and calling costumes, and made from the most supple of velvets and cloths, with brocaded or embroidered or braided vest, lace jabot and feather-laden hat, is quite beyond the purse and the needs of the average American woman. Yet its lines are so becoming, it gives such au air of distinction to the woman of even ordinary ligure, that the American woman of moderate means insisted upon having it in a modified form, better suited to church going, simpler calls and even ordinary street wear. Wherefore the pattern-makers evolved a coat of medium length, rather more tight fitting than the Louis coat pure and simple, with a snug vest, high collar, sleeves either full length or three-quarter, and much soutache braid. Some times the coat is fitted closely to the figure, demanding the very perfection of the tailor's art. Again It is semi-fitting, and In the case of velvet, it is almost as loose as a kimono coat. In the case of the tight-fitting coat, the vest is narrow and almost as long as the coat proper, but almost invari ably of a "MUrasting color. A stunning rxdei in this line was in a rich Au tumnal brown, heavily braided in self tone, and a vest of yellowish-ecru suede. Another model was In sage-green cloth, with a vest of rich cream-white broad cloth, braided in sage-green soutache. ' The skirts for wear with these tailored military coats are generally pleated and trimmed around the bottom with gradu ated bands of braid: With the more dressy coats, loose fitting and three quarter sleeves, the circular skirt, with much fine braiding, is the correct combi nation. With all the tailored coats along mili tary lines, the very high straight collar appears, and this Is trimmed heavily with soutache braid. In some of the fancy braids a touch of gold appears and many buttons, either all-gilt or en ameled with a touch of gilt, appear. The design showing the tight-fitting, three-quarter military jacket was devel oped in a Copenhagen blue broadcloth, with a vest of ivory broadcloth braided with the Copenhagen blue and silver, a harming combination. Tills makes a distinctly tailored effect, but for dressy wear It can be developed in black velvet, the sleeves changed to three-quarter ki mono design, witli the vest of brocaded Ilk, showing delicate pink, blue and yel low roses of a shadowy design, and a jabot of lace to match the flounces in the sleeves. A shorter coat is also shown with a derided military front, a high military collar and less of the T.ouis effect. This Is semi-lltting and the generally loose yet smart lines are improved by over laying all seams with flat braid. The sleeves are the plain coat design, and the entire garment one that can be de veloped at home. It is particularly suited to the new striped and checked broadcloths and English worsteds with flat applications of braid, and, to com plete the military effect, a couple of heavy frogs down the front. Fancy sleeves are entirely out of place on such a coat, which can be made from 24 yards of material 44 inches wide. Incidentally, the woman who dons the military coat must be discreet in select ing the hat to be worn with it. Float ing plumes, flowers In Winter colorings, fluttering ends of any sort, are distinct ly out of place, the correct combination being a felt hat on stiff lines with trim ming of wings, quills or coque feathers. For the girl of medium height, the coque pompom, six or seven Inches high, forms an excellent trimming on a hat to be worn with a military coat. For Miss Sixteen the military jacket Is almost ideal, as it hides every angle. A very smart design is snown in a hip length military jacket, with braid in two widths, wide and narrow. This covers both side and back seams and t!ie front and lower edges of the coat. In the two widths it would set off most fetrhingly any of the pleated skirts which are worn by young girls this sea son. The ruffs and collar on this Jacket are distinctly military. Frogs may be added, though for ordinary wear the average giri would rather they were omitted. A hat decked simply with broad, stiff bows of taffeta ribbon and a largo buckle or quill, should be worn with this jacket, while dogskin gloves are a better combination than the finer, softer kids. The last illustration shows R fanry vest which ran bo used to make over last year's coat. This means cutting over a straight, semi-fitting, hip-length or three-quarter coat, facing the front pieces bark with silk or satin, finishing the front edges with flat braid and wear ing the coat over the vest. The double vested or single-breasted style may ' be selected, and if the outer coat is plain cloth, then the vest may be selected, and if the outer coat is plain cloth, then the vest may be of figured or braided cloth. Vice versa, a fancy outer coat, siirh as check or stripe, demands the plain vest. Buttons art an important feature of any vest, and should be se lected with care. It pays to put a lit tle extra money in these, nit they set off tho little garment as nothing else will. The new long storm coats with fnr llnlng or fur collars and turn-back cuffs The Right and the Wrong HUNDREDS of women mar a charm ing costume by the addition of an inappropriats belt or girdle. A belt that does not harmonize with a gown, a girdle that clashes in color, no matter how exquisite the material, will spoil the handsomest costume that any woman ever wore. This "hurry-up" age In which we live Is largely responsible for such discordant combinations, against which every woman should light. With a filllor-made suit consisting of skirt and jacket, there is only one proper belt If you wish your jacket to set well and your entire costume to look right. That belt, made of a piece of the goods. Is not over an inch in width and is stitched all around until the entire belt Is covered with stitching. This belt should be tacked on the back of the skirt and be fastened in front with a tiny hook and eye. It Is always ready, and with out exception is the one and only ap propriate belt to wear with a stiff tai lored dress. Take, for instance, a brown broadcloth suit, such as is now so much worn. With this is worn either a brown silk blouse or one of net. Now picture to yourself two women one with a light blue crushed girdle, shirred in front and boned in the back. Of course, this cannot be fastened to the skirt, so it is pinned down in the back with a large gilt pin and is always riding up in front. Look TIGHT FITTING THREE-QUARTER Mill TART JACKET. nearly all show a military touch In the frogs used for the finish. Military lines are also shown on some house dresses, and many of the sheath-like boleros and jackets worn over house frocks are heavily braided. The skirt cut four inches from the at the other woman, with her neatly stitched belt of brown cloth sewed on the skirt and fastened trimly in front. No pins are necessary, and . the belt seems to be part of the skirt. Which woman are you? Leather belts and elastic belts of vari ous colors are still seen in the shops; hence, women must be still wearing them, bitt. believe me, nothing looks worse than a soiled white leather belt on a colored dress. A black leather belt on a colored dress is not quite so bad, but . should never be worn with anything except a black skirt. A brown leather belt, worn with a white shirt waist and black walking skirt, is a combination often seen. There Is no excuse for such a dis figuring combination. Brown belts with brown skirts; black belts with blac'.t skirts; light blue girdles with light blue dresses this is the rule which leads to artistic effect in frocks. The beautiful Dresden ribbons which are flooding the counters are bewildering In their exquisite coloring, and the most fashionable dressmakers are using them for girdles and bows. But you must se lect a Dresden ribbon .that harmonizes In coloring with your gown. A ribbon with a black satin edge with blue flowers In the center cannot be worn on a pink evening gown; the dress fabric must be blue, or else the tones of the ribbon pink. Brown is the color par excellence for gowns this season and the Dresden rib bons come in gorgeous shade of brown. ground is worn almost exclusively with the severe military jacket by younger women, and this means smartly-built if somewhat heavy shoes, of which the tans, in shades varying from yellowish to almost brown,, lead. MARY DEAN. Belt to Wear tan and biscuit coloring to combine with the gowns. Years ago we used to think that all brown dresses should be relieved with a touch of color, generally pink or blue. Not so today. All trimmings. girdles and belts must be of blending tones, with perhaps a touch of gilt braid to relieve them. Many women, and almost all young girls, wear lingerie dresses in the house all winter. Do not mar one of these dainty gowns with a soiled belt of faded ribbon. The most favored way of join ing belt, waist and skirt is to use a piece of insertion at the waisC line, sewing waist and skirt onto it. Sash ribbons around the waist line of lingerie dresses are seldom seen on the well-dressed wo man. Occasionally a bow Is worn at the back or at one side, but not around the waist. So, I say once more to you. be careful and wear the right belt with the right dress, and with every skirt that you have made', have also a little belt of the same material. Else match it exactly in a plain ribbon of heavy texture, which is the next best thing. For your evening gowns, have your girdles of soft silk or Dresden ribbon, always harmonizing with the dress itself. Bracelet Bass. 'The bracelet bag is the newest thing In wrist bags. Its handles give it its name. Th ara two rings of silver or &Uv gilt big enough to slip easily over the most heavily gloved hand. To these han dles the sides of a flat full pocket in brocade or soft leather are attached. . For all the models the stem of the bracelet handles is round, but the stem varies In thickness and ornamentation. Practically all the different styles of round stem bangle, bracelets appear in these handles, from the plain to the most ornate. Some of the more elaborate handles are studded with semi-precious Btones. An effective model has heavy handles in chased silver gilt set with amethysts. The bag is made of purple leather in smooth finish. Another style has brace lets in frosted silver set with moon stones. The bag is of brocade in, silvery gray. Bracelet bags come In practical dark colors for everyday use as well as in delicate hues for festal occasions. The bag is opened by simply drawing tho bracelets apart. The inside of the bag is lined with silk. A silk covered pocketbook with snap clasp in metal to match the bracelet handles runs across the bag. dividing it Into two pockets. Little accessories, such as toilet mirror, powder box, memoranda card, come to match the bags. The handsomer bracelet bags cost from J30 to JCO. EGG RECIPE mf EAT prices have soared so high that 1 1 few people are serving It more than once a day, and that Is generally for din ner. Many families, however, like rather a heaVty breakfast, and the plain boiled cr fried egg soon palls on the early morning appetite. Here are some sug gestions for cooking eggs tastefully: Sciambled Eggs With Celery Take four, or five pieces of crisp white celery, cut into small dice, wash and drain. Place in a saucepan with a pint of cold water, salt well and boll for twenty minutes. Remove from the fire and drain through colander. Break six or eight eggs in a bowl, season with salt and pepper and add a scant half cup of milk. Beat this well together. Heat a table spoon of butter in a saucepan, drop in the eggs and celery, thoroughly mix with a wooden spoon and cook for five or six minutes. Serve on a hot platter, gar nished with celery tips. Omelette With Sausages Take six or eight fresh eggs and separate yolks and whites. Add to the yolks a scant half cup of milk, salt and pepper, beat well together and then beat the whites toKa stiff froth. Cut four skinned sausages into quarter-inch pieces, place in a fry ing pan with a tablespoon of butter and fry for five minutes, tossing them occa sionally. Add half a teaspoon of finely chopped parsley. Mix whites and yolks together, pour over the sausages, and mix for a moment. When brown, fold over half way. Turn on a hot dish and serve. To Bo Fresh and Rosy. A woman doctor out in Iowa declares that appendicitis would die a natural death if people would freely partake of olive oil. According to the fcmlnne apostle of healing, olive oil is a regular jack of all trades It aids digestion, builds tis sue, renovates nerves and does a gen eral purifying and healing business. .."The skeleton frame Calls for it," she declares: "the starved nerves demand It. the sluggish blood stream needs a lubricant, the pale cheeks need a rosy hue, the dead scalp calls for new life, and all these can be obtained by Intro ducing pure olive oil into the daily ra tions. "A pint or more a week with food may be used with nothing but good re sults. Not only make your salad dress ing almost entirely of . oil, but put It Into everything you eat. Then as an extra, take a dessert spoonful before every meal. "If you find it hard to take It clear you can add lemon or other fruit juices, milk or salt But after a while you will find it palatable when taken quite clear. "How many drawn, wrinkled, drled up faces we see which are " all the ghastlier for the wretched attempt at an occasional smile. They need oil. Try It as an article of diet and see the freshness return to such faces. "But do not expect the miracle of an immediate fresh face. You have been drying up for years and it will require months to complete the lubricating; process." Let People Know About It. Chicago Record-Herald. If you have done a splendid thing Get on the roof and shout It: Don't fail to make the welkin ring. Let people know about It; Don't merely sit around and wait For other men to sound your praise; They'll never know that you are great Unless the hubbub which you raise Convinces those wbo doubt It If yoa have talent don't neglect To draw attention to it; Don't wait in silence and expect That some one else will do It; Get out and boast; a few may say That you are o'ersupplled with gall. But don't forget that even they Will, talking of you. after all. ."C ' utfcn t J,rAul f Etiquette of THIS is the season of the year when afternoon entertainments for women are at their height. They are of two distinct classes, formal and infor mal. All of us are human enough really to prefer the latter, yet few of us de cline invitations to the former. The woman who sits at home and mopes, complaining to her husband at night that she is bored and lonely, has only herself to blame.' Let her ask a half dozen friends in for the afternoon to play cards or to make clothes for some hospital anything to occupy their hands while their tongues are busy. Then let her serve a cup of rich chocolate, or even tea, with dainty sandwiches. She will find that her friends had such a good time that they, in turn, will have a little MILITARY COAT AND COAT WITH HIGH MILITARY COLLAR- 1 "afternoon," and thus a jolly if informal circle will result. When you give an informal affair your Invitations should be simple little notes written in the first person, or given over the telephone, or delivered personally if you happen to meet a friend in the street. An hour should always be set for -the af fair, no matter how informal. The Win ter ' afternoons are short, so ask your guests to come at half-past two. They, of course, will be expected to remove their hats and coats at these little affairs. Double and Single-Breasted Vests. If the guest, do not sit all afternoon with your hat on, saying to your hostess that you did not have time to comb your hair. Wear a neat little shirtwaist or simple dress, have your hands well manicured and your hair neatly combed. If you are the hostess at such an in formal gathering, be quite sure you do not invite two women who are not friend ly. At a large gathering this would not matter much, but in a room where there are only five or ten people, the situation would be most embarrassing to all the guests, as well as yourself, thus putting a damper on an otherwise pleasant after noon. Without doubt, one of the greatest secrets of a successful hostess is her ability to get the right people together. A question that has always been more or less under discussion is whether or not you owe your hostess a call after an informal affair an afternoon at cards, a tea, etc I think no definite answer has yet been given, but it Is well to be on the safe side and drop in on your friend Informally some morning or early after noon. Do not make a fashionable call, dressed in your most gorgeous raiment, but pay her a call in the same informal spirit as the occasion was given. With formal receptions and large after noon teas, the rules are quite different. Although men are invited to these festivi ties, they do not go in anything like th- Afternoon Entertainment numbers that the women do. Most men have to be about their business while their wives are gossiping over their tea and wafers. A married woman should leave her husband's card when she at tends such a function. A tray for this purpose is generally found in the hall or some convenient place. You do not remove either your hat or your gloves at a formal afternoon tea. If your wraps are heavy, you can take them off in a room provided for that purpose. Do not enter the parlor with a veil over your face. If you have hand some furs, the neckpiece you can keep on, but a muff Is always a burden in a room, where you are called upon to shake hands and to hold a plate while you eat. It should be left in the dressing-room with your veil and wraps. The muff is responsible for more accidents in the tea room than any other article of .apparel. Often a women trying to manipulate a fork and hold a plate and ft muff at the same time is so overburdened that some thing is bound to be spilled. At formal teas and receptions you should stay only a short time. Some times a hundred or more invitations have been' sent out, the hostess knowing that only a few women will be present at a time. If you meet several friends and want to chat with them a few mo ments, you should not let that chat run into a visit. Even when you know the hostess very well, half an hour -is long enough to stay at any formal function of this sort. Here, again, the question arises, "Do I owe that woman a call?" And again my answer is as before. Drop in some after- ' ' ' Softening Angles and Curves IT seems almost Inconsistent in this season, when the hipless woman Is In high favor, to write an article for women who long for curves. There are many women, notably dressmakers, who will protest that no woman de sires to possess curves since the Louis coat and the Paquin sheath-like skirt are in vogue. But the fact remains that hundreds of women all over the country do write to me bewailing their angles and the seeming Impossibility of covering them with firm, curving flesh. The most common causes of thinness unattractive thinness, not slenderness are indigestion or malassimllation of food.-and extreme nervousness or the habit of worrying. The woman who eats, but does not secure any strength from her food, will never take on any flesh. This means tnat a diet should be ordered by the family physician and some special tonic or appetizer given. A successful French beauty doc tor advises this appetizer for the nerv ous, thin, fussy woman: Tincture of star-anise, 3 grams; tinc ture of ruhbarb, 2 grams; tincture of dux vomica, 3 grams. Take six to ten drops in a spoonful of water just before meals. If it Is a case of nervousness and worry, the faculty of taking every thing in the hardestvay and fretting about the unavoidable thing, then no tonic, no appetizer, no cream or emol lient or skin food can work a cure. The cure lies within the mind of the woman. She must stop fussing and worrying. For a general skin food, to be used to feed either flabby skin or actual hol lows, there is nothing better than this: Tannin, grain; lanoline, 80 grams; oil of sweet almonds, 20 grams. To get best results from this mas sage cream, take a warm bath and, when the pores are open, rub the cream In wherever hollows are found. If only the breasts have turned flabby or atrophied, the flesh can be fed externally with the above lotion and then the patient may take inter nally the following potion: Liquid extract of galega (goatsrue), 10 grams; lacto-phosphate of lime, 10 grams; tincture of fennel, 10 grains; simple syrup, 400 grams. This can be prepared by any -druggist. It is to be taken Interally, two soupspoonsful with water before each meal. Keep the bowels open and drink extract of malt or ale with your meals Instead of water. A very simple flesh food, especially gortfa for the woman whose skin is dry andtiarsh. a condition which often ex ists in connection with extreme thin ness, is this: Fresh lard, 100 grams; alcohol (SO per cent), 20 grams; essence of rose mary, 11 drops; essence of bergamot, 11 drops. These Ingredients can be purchased at any drugstore. Be Bure that the lard is pure. Melt In a double boiler and add a tiny bit of gum camphor. Strain, and beat Into this the alcohol. noon and pay her a short call, leaving your own and your husband's card. Card parties are sometimes given with great .formality-. This is often done as a means of returning many social obliga tions at one time. Invitations to surh an affair should be sent out two weeks in advance; they should be either written in a formal manner or engraved cards, if you can afford them. The hour should be set. At a card party of this character ladies do not remove their hats, but, of course, must take off their wraps and gloves. Refreshments are served at the finish of the game, at the individual ta bles where the guests are seated. The giving of booby prizes has been discontinued, and a third prizo generally given instead. Personal articles are now given to women as prizes at afternoon gatherings silk stockings, feather boas, gloves, etc. Such prizes are acceptable to either the single girl or married woman, while bric-a-brac, table linen, etc., are often of the "not wanted" class of prizes. There is no question as to whether you owe this hostess a call or not. The answer is most emphatically "yes," and it should bo paid within two weeks after the card party. As your husband was not Invited to the affair, you need not leave his card. But the call must be made promptly and not put off from day to day, until, when you do call, your whole time is spent in explaining why you have not called before. PRUDENCE STANDISH. Fads and Fancies of AVomen. Fancy color effects In shoes for day wear are gaining in popularity. Banana brown- and cinnamon form a favored combination of coloring in many costumes. Patent leather shoes are being worn this season, decorated with little folded bows of leather. A trig little red English morocco bag is fitted with folding opera glasses, pow der puff, and mirror. An applied cloak tuck, three inches . wide, furnishes a tunic effect on many of the longcloth skirts. For handsome gowns matrons are wear ing black or dark, rich colored silks, brocaded in velvet. Lovely are the evening bags of white Irish crochet, lined with white silk and mounted in gold frames Some of the Winter muffs are made of tippet pieces, laid on flatly and hanging like a flap. . One of the most striking gowns seen at a recent Wedding was of bottle green satin trimmed with green lace and yel low panne. A chic departure in theater waists is the separate waist in chiffon, generally black, and worn over a pale colored or white foundation. When the Frenchwoman wants her de collete gown for restaurant or theater wear she add3 a transparent gufmpe ol white tulle and a tiny cravat of fur. A new fad is the evening cloak of tho same color of the gown, especially to wear at little theater and restaurant functions. The return of the tight skirt is perhaps the harbinger of, tight sleeves and waists that have been banished so long, to say nothing of the waistline and its nat ural position. Chic to the limit is one of the rolling brim mousquetaire hats of black velvet, faced with khaki colored satin and swept by khaki plumes, caught by a yellow leather covered buckle. The new sleeve, called the "step lad der," is an outgrowth of the kimono Bleeve. and consists of a succession of deep folds, one over the other, narrow ing in as they reach below the elbow. Serges aire going into tailor-mades. With the serge there is always apt to ar rive the vogue for velvet trimmings, or at least for velvet In collar and cuffs, and this is no exception tfiis Fall. , and Just before the cream hardens or congeals, add the essences. Massage the skin with this every day, doing the work slowly, firmly and conscientiously. Spasmodic treatment of fcither"too much flesh or a shortage In flesh will secure no 'results what ever. Best of all for the thin woman are .the deep breathing exercises so often mentioned in these columns. I will be glad to send these exerciss, together with any advico for individual cases of thinness, on receipt of a stamped and addressed envelope. KATHERINE MORTON. Exgr Recipe. Eggs with Rice. Plunge a quarter of a cup of rice Into a pint of boiling water and cook for thirty minutes, thoroughly drain, then place In a bak ing dish and add a scant cup of cream or rich milk, a tablespoon of butter, a saltspr.on of salt, cayenne pepper and grated nutmeg. A dash of curry pow der is liked by some, but can b'e added or omitted at will. Mix this well to gether, let come to a boil, then crack over it eight or ten eggs, set In oven for ten minutes, remove and serve. The Laborer and His Hire. Catholic Standard and Times. Hallo! Slgnor. I atn't see you For manny, manny day. I wondra moocha w'at you do- All time you was away. All deesa seexa mont' or more Dot you are cod' from home. I spose you went out West. Stgnor k Eh? No? You was een Rome? An' Parees, too? Wal, wal, my fraud. Wat Joy you musta feel . To see all done so granda land Where you have been. But steel Tou musta worka, longa while t For swa da mon' to go. Eh? Deal een stocks ees mak your pile? Excuse! I deed not know. X weesh dat dere was soocha treep For Dagoman like me; Ees manny now dat taka sheep For home een Eetaly Eh ? w'at ees dat ? You say decs men Are mean as dirt een street For com' an' maka mon' an' den To run back home weeth eet? I am su'prlse weeth you, Hignor. For hear you talk like dees. Da mon we gat by workin for We do weeth as we pleas. You say dey leave no theeng bayhlnd For deesa mon dey mak' : Escuse, Slgnor. but you weell find Dey pay for all dey tak. Dey pay for eet weeth harda toll, Weeth goods road an' street. Weeth crops Oat spreengft, from da soil An' geeve you food for eat, Wcth wheat dat mak' your bread so goodt Weeth grape dat mak' your wines. An. yes, dey pay eet weeth delr blood On railroads, een da mines! Wat deed you geeve for w'at you mak Een deesa stocks deal? Not wan good theeng for all you tak. Not wan. Slgnor, but steel! , You say dees men no gotta right To do da theeng dey do. Escusa me for gat excite'. I would ehak' hands weeth you. Ees Crees mas-time, so let us be Good 'Mericana men. Shak' bands! 'Eet ees a Joy to ma Far WW SfroQ.