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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (July 28, 1907)
TTTE StnVDAY OREGOXIAN. PORTLAND. JULY 28, 1907, T & 1 jti Plaited Skirts Reign Supreme for Fall Wear EARLY this season buyers and sales men alike prophesied that pleated skirts had come to stay, and we have lived to see that prophecy come true. Now, when the season Is on the wane and new goods are arriving for Fall use, pleated skirts are the only model that smart shops are carrying. The large stores may show you twenty models, but all of them are' pleated, and they differ only from the early Spring skirts in the fact that they are not quite so much trimmed and that litle garniture is ap plied in straight lines. No medallions, no circular of wali-of-Troy effects around the bottoms, everything straight and stiff. It seems to matter very little what the material may be, the models all resemble each other, in lines and general cuts. Jumpers will not be worn as much this Fall as they were in the Summer, and I would only advise the making over of dresses In this style, hereafter. Blouses are to be found in such great variety that there need be no regret for the jumper, and the model shown today is adaptable to almost any figure, as the blouse can be made up with or without the fine pleated trimmings. One of the most pop ular models in skirts is that made with four double box pleats, one in front, one in back and one on each Bide. It is a great mistake for the stout woman to persuade herself that she must wear only a circular of tight-fitted skirt. She is apt to adopt such a model and then have it made tight In the waistband, which in variably 'gives her a "bunchy" look just below the waistline and accentuates the size of her hips. The stout woman can and should wear the pleated skirt, but it must be fitted over her waist and hips perfectly, and then the pleats stitched down flat well below the hip line. To ward the front,' run them down almost to the knee, and gradually get them higher towards the back pleat. This gives a rather pointed effect. The model of the figure would make a charming dress to last well over until cold weather, and could be developed very prettily in the soft grays or browns in almost any material, trimmed with velvet ribbon and knife pleatlngs of silk just one shade lighter than the dress good3. For the home sewer, velvet rib bon is a Godsend, as it is not so easy to fit bias bands on a skirt as It may look at a passing glance. For the tall girl tucks make an ideal trimming on a skirt and carry out the season's newest idea of simple effects. It requfres a lot of time to measure them off correctly, but not any more than would be consumed in finishing bias folds and basting them on at proper distances from the hem. This skirt, however, should be avoided by the stout woman, as tucks are apt to stand out a little, and this is only becoming to the girl with the tall, slender, willowy .figure. But for some women nothing is prettier than the model showing a four-inch hem with two deep tucks above It. Skirts of this type are best evolved from thin materials like voiles, marquisettes and loose weaves of that order. Many of the newest skirts are made In voiles, but, unlike those of last season, they have either tiny silk stripes or rots in them of the same color of the Rood.1. These novelty voiles are most attractive and come, in every con ceivable color, but they all require a silk What You Should Say and Do WHEN INTRODUCED WHAT to say and what to do when people are presented to you is a problem that bothers many a girl, and at this season of the year you are apt to meet more strangers than during the shut-in months of cold weather. Perhaps, the gravest of all faults Is self-consciousness, and to be successful In social circles you must learn to forget yourself. Do not think that everyone in the room is looking at you. It is far more likely that no one has noticed your entrance at all. Try to be rather indifferent to your surroundings, and above all things stick to simplicity. One of the most popular and sim plest methods of introduction is to say, "Mr. Blank, let me present Mr. Smith." But be sure that you always present the man to the woman and not vice versa, and speak the woman's name first. Often when a man presents an other man to a woman friend, it Is rather flattering to have him say, "Mrs. Smith, my friend Mr. Jones wishes to be presented to you." In introducing one man or one woman to many peo ple, simply say bis or her name once, such as, "Miss Smith, let me present Mrs. Brown, Mrs. Jones. Mr. White and Mr. Black." In Introducing men to each other, It matters very little whose name you say first, but in vast differ ences In ages, present the younger man to the elder one, and so with Introduc ing two women. An unmarried woman Is usually presented to the matron. It Is really a rare gift to make a successful and easy Introduction, and It is a very common fault not to speak the names of -your friends distinctly. Remember that though they are old friends of yours, and their names are familiar to you, they may never have heard of each other before.- Hence speak their names clearly. .If you are a hostess and have for the moment for gotten the name of some guest whom you know slightly. It Is far better to eay, "Forgive me, but I have forgotten your name for the moment," than to Introduce her all afternoon in a slip shod way, trying to cover up your for getfulness. The old, old custom of shaking hands is used pretty generally these days, ex cept In very formal functions where there is not time for details. It Imme diately pubs two people on a cordial foundation, and you will seldom go wrong In always offering your hand to a new acquaintanoe. If you are a host ess, you must invariably rise when you . greet your guests, but if a man Is brought up to you to be introduced, you need not rise. However, a man must always rise when being intro duced to a woman, whether she is young er old. Next, what to say after the actual words of introduction have parsed. I presume the old rule of "talking about things, not people." will hold good here but try to avoid the weather as a topic as long .as possible. The girl or man who can make some timely remark Is gifted, indeed, but many people are easily embarrassed, and hence in that way the first bits of conversation are stilted and choppy. A bore always talks about himself, and we should all re member "that It Is only our Intimate friends who want to hear what we have done and what we are going to do. The passing acquaintance does not. Do not be afraid to introduce peo ple to each other or) the chance that they have met before. It is easy enough to say, "Mr. Brown, have you met Mrs. lining. Another earmark of the new gar ment is that the skirts all have stiched belts of the some material. This gives to any woman a small waist line. These belts are not over an inch in width, made of the goods, lined with a piece of silk and stiched many, many times. Another skirt for the slender girl Is one made without gores, and the de mand for this model has been created by the influx of beautiful bordered skirtings. These materials come not only in choffon, silk, etc., but are to be found in great quantities in batistes, lawn, and silk and cotton mixtures, all of which make charming gowns and are well suited to the skirt with straight lines. Of course, for a wash dress, too much cannot be. said in the favor of the straight skirt, as It will not pull crooked arid is easy to handle in every way. It can be made in plain material and trimmed to suit the fancy before it Is sewed on the belt ana hung. For a practical, everyday walking skirt, nothing is better than the eleven gored skirt, with a tuck-plait at the back edge of each gore. This should be made In a substantial cheviot and trimmed at the bottom with very nar row braid. It Is a 'skirt that is gen erally becoming and most satisfactory in Us simplicity. It should have very little trimming around the bottom, and for Cheviot I think braid is best. This model also works well in linen, but at this season of the year few women are making new linen skirts. Perhaps the newest of all the pleated models is the one snown with small double box pleats all around and panels of straight goods in between. The trimming on these skirts Is only ap plied to the panel portion. I think the reason that this skirt Is so popular Is that it is extremely graceful In ' Its folds, and can be fitted very close to the. figure to the hip line and then al lowed to flare. This model is seen mostly in chiffon panama cloth, trimmed with velvet rlbfeon or silk braid. It is rather full to be made In walking length and looks better In eher a sweep or round length. But generally speaking, all the skirts are pleated more or less, and most of them have a touch of trimming. Bias bands in place of braid or ribbon are most ap propriate for serges and cheviots, while the voiles and thinner goods look better trimmed with other fabrics like silk. But trimmings must be all of one tone, as no contrasting colors are worn on skirts this year. Perhaps, tho smartest goods for trimming Just now in vogue Is moire. This is not cheap, but like everything else that Is good, costs quite a bit of money. How ever, two yards of good moire, cut in narrow bias bands will go a long way towards trimming a suit. If you want a. touch of color en a suit you must have it in the form of collar and cuffs, but not In your bias bands or in your belt. Blue suits have yellow cloth col lars and cuffs, but not a vivid shade Just like the old-fashioned corn color. Gray dresses have a touch of scarlet or apricot, and the brown dress Is often relieved by a soft green or mode. Everything is self-toned with Just that touch of color that will mark a suit as individual and not ready-made. Browns and grays seem most popular for coat suits, but as for dresses, get what you like. It will not be wrong. MART DEAN. Smith," and it is far more polite than to leave them staring at each bther. Another great fault found In young girls that have not gone out much, la that when they are Introduced to peo ple they do not look up at them. Hold your head high and look a man or wo man full in the face, Bhake their hand and try to-have some remark at the tip of your tongue. Try to forget your self, and give your undivided atten tion to the person with whom you are talking. Do not gap around the room and occasionally say "yes" and "no," but try to make yourself agreeable. When you go -to places wher you are to meet strange people, be quite sure that you are properly dressed, for odd as that may sound, good dressing Is a great help to the self-conscious girl. You know that If you have a soiled ehirt waist on, you will come home the untraversed path to avoid meeting people and this same rule should apply In a room. Know before you come into a room that your hat Is on straight, that your belt is down in the front and up in the back, that all the detaoils of your dress are cor rect, and yo"U will be much surer of yourself than if you have dressed in differently and carelessly. I know it from experience. Reading good books, magazines and surely the dally papers, will give you timely topics of conversation. Tou sel dom find a man at a loss for some thing to say, and this Is largely due to the fact that men read more than the average woman. They know what happened yesterday. They keep up with local events, etc. Girls are apt to spend their odd moments doing fancy work and when a man asks them about this or that event he might as well be talking Greek. These are the trifles that make a girl a success. Big blunders can be far easier forgiven than the neglect of simple things, and the man or woman who can meet a stranger with a bright, cordial remark and can open conversation in an in teresting way. is gifted Indeed. PRUDENCE STANDISH. Frozen Desserts. Just, now, if the tired housewife would make her desserts early in the morning and have them out of the way before the hot afternoon sun arrives, she will find it a great saving of many things, pre-eminent among them being her disposition. Ices are so easy to make and should be universally adopted at this season of the year. Fruit Is plentiful and If the fresn fruit cannot be procured .the canned fruH makes a very good substitute In preparing some Ices. .Perhaps a few suggestions for Ices and frozen puddings will not come In amiss. Apricot ice can be made with one can of apricots, put in a pan and stewed gently until they are very soft, then rub them through a sieve, and add to them one pint of powdered sugar. Now add one and one-fourth pints of water, put in the freezer and freeze. Maple Ice Cream Take three pints of cold milk, one cup of granulated IF PERPLEXED IJT MATTERS OF DRESS, beauty or etiquette, write to ML. Dean, ML. Morton or ML. Standlsh, care of The Sunday Oregonlan, Inclosing; a self-addressed and .tamped envelope for reply. This la a quicker method than bavins; your question answered In the columns of the paper. Besides, you receive a personal, Intimate answer. Be careful to address your return envelope accurately. Letters come back to us 'very day, stamped "Insufficient address" or "party cannot be found." A CTTAKMTVO FALL, MODET. GOOD FOR COLD WEATHER.. . FOnt ATTRACTIVE MODELS OF PLAITED SKIRTS FOR sugar and the yolk of five eggs, well beaten. Take a half pound of maple sugar, moisten It, and let it boil, for ten or fifteen minutes, or until It is can died, stir this Into the custard and let it stand until it is cool, then add one pint of whipped cream and the beaten whites of the egs, and freeze. Lemon Sherbet. Take a quart of milk and boll it with the rind of one lemon and a pound of granulated sugar, and when this mixture la cool, put In the freezer and half freeze It, then add to it the following: One cup of sugar, juice of five lemons and whites of three eggs that have been well beaten, and finish freezing until it is very hard. Another delicious dessert Is known as fruit cocktail, and does not require freezing. Take a tea cup of good sherry and dissolve In it five table spoonfuls of granulated sugar and a dash of cinnamon. Peel four bananas, four oranges, and a half ponnd of grapes that have Been seeded. Pour over this the sherry and set on tho Ice for three hours before serving. Any fruit can be fixed In this way and be made a most appetizing dessert. Try strawberries and pineapples with a few FALL WEAR. currants, or any mixture of fruit that you are able to get. To Avoid Sunburn. Before going outdoors, apply a good cream to the face. After exposure to the sun do not splash or wash the face with cold wa ter if you wish to avoid sunburn. The cold water feels refreshing for the moment, but it sets the burn and the face will be painful and peel later on.- A better way is to rub the heated face with cold cream very gently and let it remain on the face an hour or more. Then sponge carefully with warm water. Got Her Punishment. A little girl came home flushed with indignation because she had been "kept in" to correct her examples. "Mamma. I'll never speak to Jeanie Smith, again as long as I live," she exclaimed. "Why, what has Jeanie done to deserve that?" "Because well, because I copied all her arithmetic, and every sum of hers was wrong." True Art of Beauty-Seeking GOVERNED BY COMMON SENSE THIS is distinctly a period of "good grooming among women. The slov enly, though perhaps artistic looking woman, is no longer in the run ning. The woman who has the features of a Greek goddess, and yet neglects to have her hair properly shampooed and dressed, creates more adverse comment than the woman of Irregular, even poor features', who shows the good effect of careful grooming. Good grooming is merely Immaculate cleanliness and exquisite attention to details of the person; but in their anx iety to acquire this effect, women are prone 'to adopt cosmetics or to employ means for reducing defects wherein the remedy Is more undesirable than the de fect itself. The wise woman is she who emphasizes all her good points so that they may outshine and attract from her defects. When a defect is so deep-rooted as to require radical treat ment. It is far. better for a woman to ig nore Us existence than to endanger her personal appearance, and, perhaps, her health, by trying to treat herself. If the defect is one which requires surgi cal treatment, go to an expert or, en dure the annoyance of the defect rather than risk what beauty you have by us ing an acid, the needle, electricity, or the knife yourself. This caution Is especially applicable to the busy woman who can give but little time to the faaklng of her toilet. Take, for Instance, obesity cures. We are all asked for diets and systems of exercises for reducing the weight, but it must be borne in mind that the re duction of weight must invariably be ac companied by a reduction in strength. This means that the woman who sys tematically enters upon a dietary, bath ing and exercise system, must give her self over to this entirely, for it will exhaust her strength If it removes the flesh. The woman who does her own housework, or the woman who is in business, must not undertake either banting, violent physical exercises or bathing, and combine with those her regulation work. Physique and nerves cannot endure the strain a breakdown is inevitable. While on the subject of the figure, a word as to lacing. The woman with a large abdomen and big hips must avoid tight lacing at the waist line, as she forces the abdomen down, encouraging It to become more flabby, while the hips are forced out and look more prominent than If she laced slightly.- This type of woman should wear a very long corset, hooking the clasps with the laces very loose; then she should thrust her hand between the corsets and her body and lift up the abdomen until the corset acts as a support beneath the abdomen. Then she, laces the corset from the bot tom to the waist line so that the abdo men rests In the corset as In a cup. Next, she laces the corset from the top down to- the waist line. ' While this gives her a larger waist measurement It gives much better lines to the figure as a whole and does not Increase flabbiness in the abdomen. The inexperienced woman worrying over some facial defect, sometimes takes ter rible chances of ruining her skin for life. One woman of my acquaintance was an noyed by a fine growth of down on the lower part of her cheeks, around her lips and on her chin. Acting on my advice she used peroxide and ammonia until the down was bleached to the tint of her skin and was almost unnotlceable. But she knew it was there and finally yielded to a sudden Impulse and had the hair burned off by a certain treatment. Every particle of the down has disappeared, but now that a year has elapsed since she took the treatment, the lower part of her face looks like a piece of parchment. The process did remove the hair, but It shrivelled the skin to such an extent that no amount of massage, no cosmetic, or lotion will make It soft or youthful again. The down which was almst Invisible never could have made this woman's face look as old as its present mass of wrin kles and cracks. The average application strong enough to kill the roots of the hair is strong enough to eat the skin. The same is true of the treatment of freckles. If the freckles are only su perficial and temporary, lemon juice, or even an application of raw tomato will fade them. But if they are too deeply seated to yield to this simple treatment, the lotion that will remove them must contain bichloride of mercury, which Is Btrong enough to eat the cuticle. In re sponse to many requests I have furnished formulas of this sort, always warning my readers of the danger In using strong preparations on the skin. It Is in reality a choice between two defects freckles, or moles, or hair:-and a dry and shriv elled skin. One of the most indiscreet and de plorable tendencies which has accom panied the twentieth century devotion to the toilet table, Is changing the color of the hair. The average woman who de cides to dye her hair an entirely different shade has the wisdom and the funds to consult an expert;, but even she must bear in mind that while she Imagines a different shade of hair would be more becoming to her, her complexion and eyes are tinted to conform with the natural shade of her hair, and she should try a wig In the shade she contemplates dyeing her hair before she makes this radical change. Once she sees her face framed in the coveted color she may change her mind about the dyeing process before it is too late. Bui far more common' and disastrous is the custom of bleaching the hair with peroxide. The only woman who is justified in using this remedy is she who has very oily hair, of a muddy shade of light brown or gold. A reasonably dis creet use of peroxide will simply brighten this woman's hair without injuring Its texture. When the hair Is very dry, per oxide Is very dangerous, as it dries up what little oil is left and cracks the hair right in the center. Experts In the use of peroxide are ex tremely careful In making applications, giving several hours to the process. A clear, dry day is selected for the work. The scalp and hair are thoroughly cleansed. A weak solution of peroxide and ammonia is applied with a fine tooth brush, the hair being arranged in strands or locks. It is then dried In the sun, and if the desired color has not been at tained, a second application is given. This is continued until the tint Is satisfactory: then the hair is shampooed and rinsed until every trace of the peroxide dis appears. This is the only system by which the hair will not be cracked or broken; yet hundreds of women apply the peroxide and never rinse It off; then write to me asking why their hair turns green, breaks arid comes out. KATHHRENE MORTON. Dainties for Summer Afternoon Teas EVERYONE has tired of the old-fashioned meat and bread sandwiches, and something new that will please the palate on these hot and sultry after noons will surely be welcomed. A very economical way of using up fish, and one of the most popular of the new sand wiches is made as follows: Take the yolks of six hard-boiled eggs and rub them to a paste and mix it with the same quantity of cold fish that has chilled in the ice-box. Spread this mix ture on crisp lettuce leaves, add a dash of mayonnaise dressing and spread be tween thin slices of white bread. Every wise housekeeper has a can of sardines on the shelf for emergencies, and here is a nice sandwich that can be pre pared In a few moments for the unex pected guest: Take half the contents of a box of sardines, skin and bone them. Rub or pound them to a paste and moisten them with lemon Juice and a dash of cayenne pepper; Spread this be tween thin saltlne crackers. Another sandwich that can be made in a few moments' notice Is by chopping two large crisp cucumbers very fine and add to this a little onion Juice, just enough to give it a flavor, and a little bit of cayenne pepper. Mix this with a little mayonnaise dressing and spread on thin slices of white bread. Instead of the peanut butter that comes prepared in cans and has stood in the shops for months, try this: Take a quart of peanuts, shell and blanch them, and then put them through the coffee-mill or very fine chopping machine. Salt this to suit your taste,, and add to it enough port wine, sherry or any home-made wine to make it a soft paste. Spread on buttered white bread By now you may have become tired of the ice tea, and it is too warm for choco late, and nothing is more refreshing than the following punch served to a friend on a hot afternoon: Put a heaping table spoonful of good tea in a pitcher, pour over it a quart of boiling water and let It stand for a few moments, covered. Strain this Into a bowl or large pitcher, add one pound of sugar. Juice of six lemons and two oranges, and a quart of appolllnarls. Be liberal with your ice, and it wllf also add to the flavor to put in a few strawberries or raspberries and a cucumber peel. This receipt will make ample punch for a dozen people. At this season of the year when fruit is plentiful, it is well to take advan tage of It In the way of fruit punches, and I am giving you several recipes that are delicious and most refreshing: Fruit Punches. Take a pint of fresh raspberries and a quart of currants, wash and then bruise them. Pour over these two quarts of water and a half-pound of sugar (preferably brown). Let this come to a boil very slowly, then remove and strain through a Jelly bag. This should be allowed to cool, then set on the Ice. It should be served In individual glasses with a large piece of ice. Another irult punch Is made by first boiling one pint of sugar with one quart of water and the juice of two lemons. Into this grate the rind of three oranges. Let it boil several minutes, then set It aside to cool. Into your punch-bowl or extremely large pitcher put plenty of Ice. and slice three oranges very thin, cutting the pieces In half. Take six oranges and squeeze only the Juice Into the pitcher or bowl, and a pineapple cut in very thin, small pieces. Over this pour the syrup that has cooled, am then add any berries that you may have. Still another punch Is made by taking a pint of any fruit syrup, either currant or strawberry, add to this the juice of five oranges and five lemons and a can of grated pineapple, or a fresh pineapple, shredded very fine. Sweeten this to taste, adding enough cold water to make it a nice strength. Put this into a punch bowl and add a few maraschino cherries if possible. In making any of these Summer bever ages, be most liberal with your ice, as the colder the drinks the more appetizing they are. In making the sandwiches, cut the bread very thin, but put plenty of tilling between the bread, so that your friends will have something that Is a hit substantial. Oftentimes people In trying to make their food dainty make It too much so, and there Is hardly anything to eat at all. Do not have such a great variety, but have plenty of wnat you do serve. If there is some left over. th family will be only too glad of a bit the next day. What the Weil-Bred Girl Remembers Never, to ridicule sacred things, or what others esteem as such, however absurd they may appear to her. Never to resent a supposed injury until she knows the views and motives of the author. Never to enter Into a discussion with any enthusiast or a person much older than herself. Never to jest so as' to wound the feelings of others and to say as little as possible of herself and those who are near and dear to her. Never, If possible, does she lose her temper, and she learns to speak with calmness and deliberation, especially In circumstances which tend to irritate.'