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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (July 7, 1907)
TITE SUNDAY OREGOSTTAX, PORTLAND, JULY 7, 1907. T (PBBCSP8HDEHCE PA&E yJASMOHS AMD BEAUTY WHEN the first joyous edge of vaca tion days has been worn oft by the 16-year-old daughter, and she be gins to feel the need of some regular em ployment for mornings at least, the sensi ble mother will start a midsummer JBressmaklng campaign. In these days Uf ready-to-wear raiment, dressmak ing is rather a neglected art in many families, especially In cities. The styles of this summer seem ad mirably suited to the needle of the be ginner, and just now prices In cotton goods have dropped to a point where the experiment will cost mother next to nothing. It Is always best to begin appealing to the girl's love of dainty little things and leaving prac tical, utilitarian garments until she lias become not only skilled In cutting and fitting .but enthusiastically Inter ested In her new-found art. Plan some small garment, too, in Chin fabric, with lace trimming, and Considerable hand-sewing. Then the daughter can work upon such a gar ment while entertaining her girl (friends on the porch or under the trees. Do not appall her by selecting Ci the Initial article, something that requires much fitting and bending over machine. No woman ever admits that she has too many dainty kimonos or negligees In Summer, and so this is a good gar ment for a starter. Buy a reliable pat tern and watch Miss Sweet-Slxteen when sh cuts the garment, making sure that she follows pattern direc tions accurately, as accuracy is the foundation upon which good dress making 1 built. Then make sure that she sews all seams carefully before hemming the bottom of the garment. Teach the girl from the very start to select practical combinations, that is, using wash lace or embroidery with tub fabrics od the laces that will clean but not wash with silk. A very pretty and novel kimono pat tern Is shown in this connection, the jumper design, graceful yet simple and easy to make. In the model, it was developed in dotted batiste with German . Val. lace for trimming. The' square neck Is de lightfully cool . for Summer, and It will be equally effective in any wash fabric of soft texture, or in thin silk, and for later wear in albatross, cashmere or wash flannels. When made In wash flan nel or albatross, the decoration- may consist of a deep hem, finished with feather stitching, but lace and flannel do not combine well In washing. The Kimono is made in one piece. It Is slipped on over the head, there being no opening whatsoever. Straps are at tached uiler the arms that form the sleeve portions and serve to keep the kimono in place. The quantity of material required for the medium size is 294 yards 27. 2 yards 36, or 14 yards 44 Inches wide, with 5 yards banding. Fine lingerie always appeals to the dainty girl's Interest, and she who can make her own has very much the ad vantage over her less enterprising sis ters, who depend upon bargain sales of ready-to-wear underwear. Just now. the fad Is for lingerie that shows cot a line of machine stltehery, but Is hand sewn, even in Its seams. Many up-to-date garls are departing from the idea of plain lawn, nainsook, cambric, etc, for a lingerie, and are using the dainty check, fcarred and figured batistes, Swisses and dimities. especially for corset covers and skirts intended for use under thin Summer dresses. Pretty pieces of domestic batiste can now be picked up as low as 9 cents the yard. Remnants of embroidery good enough for lingerie can be found for 5 cents a yard, and good imitations of torchon and mal tese lace are also to be bad at a bar gain. They are rather more popular now than the German Val. lace, which has been run Into the ground. The design shown Is called the jumper corset cover, though it can be opened down the front and finished with buttons. It is simplicity Itself, Involving almost no labor In the making while It Is soft and full and generally becoming to girlish figures. Nainsook, lawn, Uatlste, all thin, white and soft materials of the sort are appropriate with trimming of lace or embroidery, but this one is made of Sea Island nainsook, with an edge of Ger man Valenciennes lace and beading. The quantity of material required for the 16-year size is 1 yards 36 Inches wide with 24 yards of edging and 3 yards of beading. Before attempting the ambitious cos tume, a girl should try separate parts, such as waist or skirt; then if failure follows she wtll not feel that the task laid out for her Involved much loss of material or time. A shirtwaist of some fabric costing from 5 to 10 cents is a good starter in the making of real garments. Select a pretty gingham in China blue .which you can buy for 8 cents a yard. and for trimming, some white washable braid or rather heavy. , narrow insertion. The Peter Pan design, with Its oool, rolling collar and elbow sleeves, always appeals to the young daughter, and herewith is presented a very good pattern. It has the two tucks in each front that provide becoming fullness and can be made either from the thin lawns, batistes and the like, or from the slightly heavier Madras, linen and French pique. The quantity of material required for the 16-year size Is 36 yards 21. 3i yards 27 or 1 yards 44 Inches wide. When daughter reaches the point where she thinks she would like to make a Bklrt, bear In mind that the fit over the hips and the even hanging around the bottom are all-important points. There fore, select as a pattern, a good gored skirt, without trimming. The over trimmed skirt Is an abomination and ex ceedingly difficult for inexperienced fingers. The Illustration shows a mode easy to carry out. It Is made in plaid gingham, trimmed, with washable braid, but the novice should choose a plain ma terial with no up-and-down, to facilitate matching the gores neatly. Note the use of tucks over the hips. These are far easier for the beginner to handle than the pleats so much seen In Summer skirts. These tucks are arranged In groups, and where they fall free of the stitching provide abundant and graceful fullness, while the lines are the best pos sible for girlish figures. The skirt Is cut In seven gores and is laid In Inverted plaits at the back. The quantity of material required for the medium size (14 years) Is 54 yards 27, 3 yards 44 or 2i yards 62 Inches wide. Having finished to her own and your satisfaction, separate pieces of a cos tume, let her wind up her lessons by making a complete costume, in some Inexpensive material, which will not alarm her at thought of possible waste. Many girls fall In their first complete garment simply through fright. In reality, with a good pattern, a bit of help from mother In the fitting process, and most Important of all, the plan of laying aside the work as soon as head or back begins to ache, it can be fin ished to the satisfaction of all con cerned. The prlncesse jumper dress shown in this connection wtll work out very well in dimity, lawn, batiste or other Eheer fabrics, and with a lace gulnipe will make a pretty frock' for Summer parties. The dress is made with front, back and under-arm gores. It Is tucked above and below the waist line to give a girdle ef fect and to obtain perfect fit, and the shoulder portions are cut Into straps that are lapped one over the other. There are also additional straps that are applied to the erms eyes and which give the broad shoulder line. The quantity of material required for the 16-year size Is 8Vi yards 27, 73 yards 32 or five yards 44 inches wide. If mate rial has figure or nap; 6 yards 27, 6i yards 32 or ihi yards 44 Inches wide. If it has not. MART DEAN. Good Form in the Summer Correspondence IT does not take very long to write a letter, and everyone knows the pleasure Involved In getting one; but like all other good things, letter writ ing can be overdone. Generally It Is he girl just out of school who over does it, and later in life she counts it as one of the things she should nave left undone. When a girl goes away from home to visit a friend, she should, the next day without fall, write a nice little note to her mother, saying that she ar rived safely, and then . from time to time Rhe should write short notes home In order that the family may know what she Is doing and that she is well. If mother leads a busy life and does not answer these letters, that is no excuse for the girl who is visiting and has nothing to do all day except amuse herself. When she leaves the house of her friend ghe should, within a day or two, write a nice letter of thanks to the mother of the girl whom she has visited. To use a common phrase, this should be your real "bread and butter" letter, and then later you can resume your regular correspondence with your girl frield. The girl who Is always nice to her elders, thinking of them in the little ways, is the girl who is popular with both men and girls. It may not seem worth while at the time, but take my word for It It pays In the long run. The girl who spends the entire Sum mer away from home at a hotel 'or boarding-house, or even the girl who only slays at such places for a week or two. often becomes very well ac quainted with some young man. He makes love to her, more or less of the vacation brand, and she lets him. Sometimes he means this, but oftener "they are words that mean nothing. .After they separate they start a cor respondence. The girl writes how lonesome she Is without him, or how. eilie wishes he were back, and some ttmes for a time he answers in the Kama vein. But take my word for it. the average man Is not foolish enough to put down in black and white the things that women do. He Is general ly too wise. Think what you like, say what you will but be very, very care ful what you put down on a piece of paper, especially when you are sitting alone In your room with only a dim light for company and a lonely feeling In your heart. It Is there to stay for ever, evidence for or against you. Write to him If you will, chatty little letters, about where you have been and what the others are doing, but don't, I pray of you, write love letters to the chance acquaintance that you met in the Sum mer hotel. I do not mean to eay that you do not miss him, but you need not tell him so until he has found out that he cannot live happily without you and has asked you to marry hlra.- Let your correspondence be wide and write often. The girl who writes a letter once a month looks upon it as a bore, a task to be put off from day to day; but the girl who writes several letters every week finds them a great source of comfort, a relief from drudg ery and dullness. Cultivate the girls whom you met at school and who live away from your home town. Write letters to your men friends the kind of letters that you can read to the family, and seo that he writes the same sort to you. Men, as a rule, are broader-minded than women, and corre spondence with them has a good ef fect on the mind of the growing girl. Then, too, remember what I said about the elders. Don't forget your grand mother, the aunts and uncles away from home. Write to them once in a while, and tell them the home news. The little things that happen every day to you might be an event In the lives of lonely old people, who have lived the best of their lives. A girl's character can be read in her letters almost always, and hence it is wise to try and write a good one. Write your acceptances and regrets to Invitations promptly. When writing Invitations to guests to your own home, allow ample time for an answer. If you would only make it so, letter writing Is one of the pleasantest occupations possible, and the more you write the better you will like it, and so long as you are making others happy you are doing good In this world so full of sorrow. PRUDENCE STANDISH. Asparagus Loaf. Cook three cupfuls of the asparagus tips until tender, then drain. Put' into a saucepan two tablespoonfuls of butter and one tablespoon! ul of flour; cook to gether one minute; add one cupful of milk, ons-half teaspoonful of salt and one-fourth teaspoonful of paprika; add the milk, slowly stirring all the time, and let it cook five minutes. Take from the fire and add four well-beaten eggs, one cupful of asparagus tips and a tea spoonful of chopped parsley. Line a well-buttered baking dish with the re mainder of the asparagus tips; pour in the asparagus and sauce, and cook with the dish In water In the oven for 15 min utes. Serve with egg sauce. Egg Sauce. Heap two tablespoonfuls of butter in a saucepan. When it bubbles, put in (all at once) two tablespoonfuls of flour, and stir from the sides toward the center of the pan until the ingredients are well mixed. Have ready heated a cupful of milk; add to this the "roux" gradually, and beat to a smooth cream. Season with pepper, salt and beat Into the thickened milk the yolks of two raw eggs and a little minced parsley. The white and yolk of a hard boiled egg chopped fine may also be added. - Creamed Young Beets. Cook with two inches of the stem on. to prevent bleeding and do not clip the top root. Have ready a cupful of cream, heated with a pinch of soda. Rub the skins off, top and tail the beets, and slice them then into the cream, setting the saucepan containing it in boiling water. When all are in. stir in a tablespoonful of butter rubbed into one of flour, pep per, salt and a teaspoonful each of sugar and onion juice. Simmer tow minutes to cook the flour, and dish. Ginger Ale Frappe. Open three bottles of imported ginger ale and turn the contents into a bowl. Add the juice of four lemons and a half cupful of granulated sugar. Stir until the sugar Is dissolved and turn the mix ture into a freezer and freeze. This ice Is very refreshing. Good Ways of Fighting Freckles and Tan THE old adage "an ounce of preven tion Is worth a pound of cure," cer tainly holds good In those Summer afflictions freckles and tan. It Is far easier to prevent thefr coming than ts get rid of them, and there are simple home remedies that will help, if you will only take the time and trouble to use them. Those who tan and freckle very easily should wash In very hot water, then ap ply both cold cream and powder before they go out. Brown veils are better than any other color. White veils, which are 80 much worn In Summer, afford no pro tection to the girl who freckles. When the face Is hot and burning after being out In the sun, wash in very hot water, or else bathe It in witch hazel, then apply a lotion made of equal parts of lemon juice and glycerine and rose water. After that, massage in a little cold cream and the relief will be Instantaneous. . Two simple home remedies are washing the face and hands In buttermilk every day, or else in horseradish lotion. This lotion Is made by scraping a teaspoonful of horseradish into a cup of sour milk and letting It stand for six hours. Apply this two or three times a day. Never fall to massage in a little cold cream after using any of these lotions. Dr. Caissarato. who doctored the di vine Sarah Bernhardt for so many years, recommends the following treatment In cases of very tender skins that tan and freckle: At night before going to bed, wash the face in water just as hot as can be- borne, and after this spread over the face a layer of the following pomade: Oxide of zinc, 10 grams: talcumv f 10 grams; powdered soap. 60 grains: lanoline. S grams; tincture of benzoin, 10 grams; IF PERPLEXED IS MATTERS OF DRESS, beauty or etiquette, write to Mine Dean, Mian Morton or Mlsa Stnndlsh, care The Sunday Oregonlan, Inclosing a nelf-addreeaed and atamped envelope for reply. This la a quicker method than having your question anawered In the columns of the paper. Bealdea, you receive a personal, Intimate answer. Be careful to addreaa your return envelope accurately L,ettera eorae back to ua every day, atamped "insufficient address" or "party cannot be found." water. R2 grams; glycerine, 10 grams. In the morning wash the face again with very hot water, and then powder It with starch. A bottle of witch hazel, which should be used very freely; a lemon, some al mond meal, a bottle of benzoin, should all be found on the washstand of the girl with the tender skin. And I can only again warn you about the use of soap. Use all the nice toilet water you want for a scent, but get the pure,' unscented soap. Many people who freckle use only witch hazel soap, but castile, or any plain soap with no alkali in it, is equally good. The hands can always be protected by a thin glove, and In these sensible days of independence, the white silk glove, which can be washed time and again, or those of lisle, or even thin cotton are "2. uvJ, worn by the well-dressed woman. Mlts are no good whatever. They are not only bad form, but do not protect the fingers. And lastly, do not think that because the sun Is not shining brightly, you will not tan and freckle. KATHERINE MORTON. Baked Asparagus. Cut the tender leaves of asparagus stalks into Inch lengths. Cook ' for 15 minutes in salted boiling water, then drain. Grease a pudding dish and put In the bottom a layer of the asparagus. Sprinkle this with fine bread crumbs, bits of butter, pepper and salt and small pieces of hard-boiled eggs. Now put In, another layer of asparagus, more crumbs, etc., until the dish is full. The last layer must be sprinkled with crumbs and bits of butter. Bake for half an hour, and serve in the dish In which it is cooked. Curried Green Tomatoes. Cut large green tomatoes into very thick slices. Melt In a frying pan three tableBpoonsfuIs of butter and fry in, this a small onion, sliced. At the end of two or three minutes stir into the melted butter a teaspoonful. of curry powder. Lay the tomatoes in this mixture and fry them on both sides. When done, drain, sprinkle with, salt and pepper and serve. ' Peppers Stuffed With Fish. Trim the stem ends of green peppers so they will stand up. Cut off the tips, and with a small, keen knife extract the seeds and as much of the tough fiber as will come away. Mince white fish flne. moisten tt with a white sauce, season and fill the peppers with this mixture. Stand In the oven long enough to heat through, and serve.