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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Dec. 2, 1906)
47 CORRESPONDENCE'-:SCHO0L:.:0R-.rSTLE., AND - BEAUTY LINES AND WOMAN PLAIDS THE' SUNDAY OREGONI AN. ..PORTLAND, .-.DECEMBER . 2, liKMV li t . PLAID TRIF1.RS FOR HOMES SBWBRS. HELEN HAKMAX-BROnX THE entire success of your gown depends on its lines. Good lines will transform an Inexpensive material into a smart creation. Poor lines will ruin priceless fabrics. . When you hear a man say that woman looks sawed oft or dumpy or like a barber's pole, consider the lines, not the material in her frock, and there you will find the cause. When you hear a man say that a woman looks well, no matter what she wears, again look' to the lines. They furnish the reason. What lines should you employ to bring out the best points of your figure and hide its defects? For lie Short Medium-Slender Fleure., Skirt length Four Inches from the ground. Seams Unbroken from belt to hem. with a decided flare, starting half way between ankles and knee. Trimming One line -of horizontal trimming only, and that not higher than top of the hem. generally in, form of - bias fold or braid at head of fold. No trimming around hips. Better re sults from vertical trimming. Pleats Inch-wide flat or stitched side pleats, facing the middle gore in front. Pleated habit back and tucks, flaring below the knee. No yokes are used this year. Coat length Very short. Bolero just to waist line of velvet, with broadcloth skirt; broadcloth with mixed, checked or plaid skirts. Short girls should never wear coats reaching below the hip line. Seams of coat Semi-fitting, with slight curve toward waist line. For rough wear, Norfolk coat with yoke and belt. Sleeves Three-quarter length or to wrist, about two inches shorter than regulation mannish coat length. Coat trimming On short coat sug gests military lines with stitching, vest and braid, or double-breasted with frogs. Few double-breasted coat: shown. Hat Military lines with" ribbon and wings. Plain but not severe. 1 Stout Woman. Two inches from the Short. Skirt length- floor. m Lines of skirt seams Unbroken, with no ruffles or application of braid. Trimming No trimming save for two graduated panel pleats of the same ma terial down the center of the front, or braid applied to simulate this effect. Pleats Inverted pleats opening half way between hip and knee. Hem Can be trimmed with one fold of material if desired. Coat length Either to the knee, or a bolero to the waist line. Seams of coat Always tight-fitting. Coat trimming Should accentuate bust line. Double-breasted military ef fect is good, or single-breasted with line of -buttons showing down the front. No yoke unless it comes in deep lines over the bust. Sleeves -Long, plain at wrist, 'com paratively .little fullness. Hats Toque, with close trimming. Tall, Heavy-Set Woman. . Skirt length One Inch and a half from the ground. Lines of skirt Straight, no panels or ruffles. Long unbroken lines. ' Trimming Braid or strapping ap plied in tapering lines up the front' of the skirt, with never more than one line of trimming around the top of, the hem or the very bottom of the skirt No trimming o-er the hips. Two grad uated box pleats at the very front of the skirt make the waist and hips look smaller. Pleats Box pleats three finches In width, graduated to the waist line and allowed to hang loose just below the hip. Pleats may also be stitched to the knees, but in -this case the skirt must be very full below the knees. Graduated box pleat at the back in stead of inverted pleats. Folds Flat, stitched bands of same fabric applied with self-tone stitching. Coat length To hip line, or cutaway in mannish fashion just at the knees. Bolero unbecoming, and full-length coat makes you look stouter. Seams of coat Semi-fitting in back, outlining decidedly the line of the waist and hips. Loose, fly front with concealed buttons or very tight ac centuated bust line and bone buttons to match some color in material. Coat yoke Never. Sleeves When front of coat is tight fitting.' sleeves must come to wrist without much fullness at the top. With ' loose front, elbow sleeves with flaring turnback cuff very becoming. Buttons Cloth-covered buttons 01 pockets and finishing the tapering ends of bloth strappings. Hat Rather large brim turned up on side or front with quills. One-color costumes ' only for the tall, stout woman. Tall. Very Slender Woman. Skirt length One inch 1rom the ground. ' Lines of skirt seams Panel skirt or overskirt permissible for tall woman only. Trimming Any trimming which breaks the long line between the hip and the bottom of the skirt is becom ing. Circular applications of braid, broken at each seam and winding up ward almost to the knee, the smart thing this .Winter. ' . . ' Pleats One inch in width and flar ing just below the knees. The many gored skirt excessively full about the feet is better. All pleats loose to give fullness about the hips. Folds Three wide folds of the same material around the bottom still in favor. Three wide folds are also used over the hips, with two graduated box pleats down the front and back of the skirt. . Coat length To knees. Coat- reach ing half way between hips and waist line will also be worn, as well us pep lum bolero. '. ' . ' .'. ' . Seams of coat. Comparatively straight, with slight fullness at :back. . Sleeves Wrist-length 'sleeves .'or very full three-quarter bagging over. the el, bow. The arm size is to be accentuated and trimmed this "season, and is much, larger than usual. . a . -;'--,. Hat Extra laTge toque, with Alsa tian effect produced by wings. Un turled ostrich plumes wilf also be worn by the tall woman. They are becom ing to no other woman. $0 fulfil -vl 4 Milium CORRECT LI.KS FOR THE SHORT SI.E.NDKH M OMAV. PLAIDS are in vogue once more, but they are pre-eminently the priv ilege. of the slender woman. They are also more becoming to youth than mid dle age. The thin woman can wear an entire plaid suit. The stout woman must em ploy the plaid as trimming or in the. form of carefully planned accessories. The large plaids of decided pattern and coloring must be made up without trimming and on simple lines. The small, broken or clouded plaids may be trimmed with velvet, broadcloth or braid. . For street wear, the color combina tions in plaids show dark green, blue, a line of purple and gold: dark green, garnet and gold; dark' gray, green and brown: brown, green and robin's egg blue in hair stripe; dark blue, dark red and a silk hair stripe of pale blue. For. house wear, scarlet, pale bine and gold; golden brown, nile green or tur quoise blue, with white and gold, . gol den brown, coral pink, white and gold or silver; various shades of sage green with white, gold and blue. When the suit is of invisible or broken plaid or check, select a bodice of plain silk in tint matching the pre dominating color in the plaid. If tho suit is one-tone cloth, select for tho bodice a plaid in which the predom-j inating tint matches 'the cloth In the suit. The most effective combination shown among imported gowns is p corselet or princess skirt of plaid in sage green, silver gray and black, with a bolero jacket finished with peplums done In sage green- broadcloth. . The woman who is not slender must have her plaid suit made with a cir cular skirt, the plaid on the bias. The seams of the hip-length, tight-fitting tailored iacket should be outlined with Hercules braid, giving a military ef fect, and if possible have a smartly braided ' vest. The slender woman can wear ovei her frock of plain color or all lace a skeleton bodice with girdle, shoulder straps and bietelles of plaid ribbon, the predominating color matching the cloth in the dress, or if worn over an a!l-Iaee dress, harmonizing with eyes and hair of wearer. For wear over lace. mousseline or crepe frocks, the home dressmaker can evolve boleros of plaid ribbon, alter nated with bands of black velvet rib bon, each stripe ending in a point and the sleeves being mere caps or bre telles, also pointed. A stout woman can employ plaid in the following way: Folds of cloth for trimming cloth or plain silk dresses can be piped flth plaid silk or ribbon, and the collar or stock and cuffs can also be made of the plaid. The girdle must match the gown. The cuffs should be deep, pointed effects, and the stock should be an abbreviated four-in-hand, with a buckle where the knot Is made. If the bodice has. a- pleat down the front, it may be trimmed with plaid buttons, made by covering molds with plaid ribbon or silk to match cuffs am stock. - Readers who desire specific infor mation regarding the correct combina tion of plaid trimmings or accessories with gowns can send, samples of their materials and receive suggestions free by mail. Be sure 'to send a stamped and addressed envelope and some per sonal description, of yourself. Address Miss Harman-Brown, In care of this newspaper. "1 . jk- -n. POINTERS IN PLAIDS. Choosing and Using Veils TAKE great pains in choosing your veil. It will stamp your costume as smart or the reverse. The mussy, inappropriate veil is considered an unpar donable offense against good dressing. One 'veil is not enough. You must have two in different fabrics and generally different colors. The . face veil, generally plain "or of lotted net. matches the hat and gown. ...I.... ..... J, !' .11, J.,WS,i. . ! ' -' - : V ; . -.. " -; t -I ' -i , H - ' fer- f v - K - ' mm iam - . .1. ... i . ,v., ,..,. J THE OLl WAV. pagne, blue, pink, violet with huge vel vet dots of a deeper but harmonizing color, such as - black or pale blue, dark golden brown or champagne, deep wine color or pale pink. The hems at the low er edge of the veil are very deep and heavy. - There has been a revolution in the drap ing and tying of veils. Last season volu minous effects were in vogue. This year all veils are taut to the point of unbe comingness. They harden rather than soften features. The chiffon -veil for motoring and driv ing is tied over the sides of the hat and down over the ears until It gives a shaker bonnet effect. It is then wound several times around the throat and so tied that it cannot be dislodged. It goes ' without saying that this style of drapery is very hard on the delicate fabric. The upper edge of long net or lace veil is pinned in pleats around the crown of the hat. Then catching the lower edge of the veil between your forefinger and thumb of each hanu, it is drawn under the Jaw and cars and fastened at the nape of the neck with a fancy bar pin so that all the ends are fastened down snugly. . Another bar pin fastens it just as tightly at the brim or back trimming of the hat. The general effect Is that the ends of the veil have been laid in pleats to completely hide the back of the hair, and then fastened into place with decora tive pins which come in a variety of striking designs for this purpose. This tight style of fastening the veil is extremely trying to the average woman brown, green, blue, red, gray and purple being shown- to harmonize with the fab rics for suits ..and huts. The second veil is of lace or chiffon, in white, black or a contrasting color. The conservative dreser who declines to be drawn into fads still wears only thu small. 'face veil to protect her skin and keep ' 1it hair in place, especially when clad in a tailored suit. Rings have replaced dots in the new meshes and the lace edge is used very generally for the outer veil. The most exaggerated finish is the knite-pleating. of mousseline, which appears on both face and drapery veils. These veils, bought rejidy made-,, are exceedingly ex pensive. They can be copied by the home-sewer, with the pleated edges, at a. greatly reduced price. They should bo finished on' the ends and lower edge, that is, on the' three sides, with a fine knife pleatmg in. the same- color as the net, about an .inch and a half deep. Fine pleatings of lace are employed In the came way. ; V When either form of trimming is ap plied it must be Joined to the length of net by a very fat, smooth seam, or baby ribbon stitched very flat.. The "new chiffon veils are in very deli cate tones, such as oyster white, cham- is :5 -Spa! Via., Htwmwy 4. f f ' f ' 4 v " ft 1 ' THE NEW WAY. der of the veil ' to be higher than the point of your chin. I will be. glad to. offer suggestions . for matching veils to costumes. Do not for get stamped and addressed envelopes. HELEN HARMAN-BROWN. Climax of Wedding Horrors. There were young people discussing all the terrible mishaps at weddings. The groom had trodden on the bride's train and torn her satin dress from the waist, the bride had sneezed in the midst of her promises, and the ring had rolled down the register. Still the large, easy,- harmonious girl THE SM'G WAV. and especially to the stout woman with the double chin. The woman who is brave enough to loosen the pleats a little bit will not regret her temerity. Never allow Uu Aran, frill or lace bor- said nothing; yet there was a glint in her eye. "What about it Liz? You're not out of it entirely?" asked Tom. ' "It's almost too painful to talk- about, though it happened to my - sister and not to me. You know she had a pretty high-toned wedding, if I am her sister, and she had to kneel inside the -chancel all through the service." s "Hole -in the roof, right above." haz arded Minn. . "Now don't get funny until you know all," replied Liz. drawing down her mouth. . "It was in the most solid part of it, when she was going to be given away mammas sniffled, papas trying to look careless, young couples sort, o' lean ing closer when a dog walked up- the aisle, smelled at the 4ews, wagged him self up to the very front, entered the chancel, and sat down on the train of my sister's silk dress." "Did he howl? I don't see anything very bad so far." remarked Tom- "You'll have to come asain." . "Did he howl? No, he didn't howl. But he was the brightest yellow cur I ever saw. and he deliberately sat on- my sister's blue silk dress." . - "You said that before." insisted Tom. "I did not say that uetore, stupid!" ex claimed Liz. with gathering spirit. "A bright yellow dog on a Dlue dress! . The combination; think of It! It was the most horrible thing I ever knew to hap pen at a wedding, and when 1 get married , 1 will look out for dogs of pronounced color," Good F orm Tlic Afternoon. PRUDENCE STANDISH. THIS series is to present concisely the principal points to be . observed by hostess and guest. The lessons will cover every entertain ment and situation in which the social novice might find herself. Women will find the rules convenient to paste in desk, diary or portfolio. When completed they will make an up-to-date textbook of good form. ' No acknowledgement is required. -.; The next lesson will give plain rules for dinner etiquette. ' Have you an invitation for an afternoon tea, reception or "at home?' If so Wear a light-colored frock with dainty waist, your best hat and white gloves. It is unnecessary to remove your glovesi Your stay should not bo longer than a half hour. ) If you observe these simple rule.i you will not wonder whether you did the right thing. You will know that you did. Exchange a few remarks with the hostess, but be careful not to take up more than three or four minutes of her attention. . . These cards should be carried in a card ease or a pocketbook with cardcase at tachment, which holds also one of your choicest handkerchiefs. - . Carry several of your own calling cards as well as some of your husband's or brother's, should he have been invited, but be unable to go with you. " . - At the door of your hostess' home there may and there may not be some one to open for you immediately, so it is al ways proper to ring the bell. Make it a point never to talk with one person more than two minutes. . The wo man who takes an afternoon tea conver sation seriously is a bore to the rest. Arrive at the house not earlier than a , half hour following the first hour men tioned in the invitation and not later than 15 minutes preceding the last hour. , Meet any guests to whom she may in troduce you. cordially an.d with a hand Bhake. Then pass on from the hostess to converse with them or with other ac quaintances. '. On leaving the tearoom, and before going to the dressing-room for your wrap, bid adieu to your hostess with a simple word of appreciation for the pleasure of meeting her and her friends. Readers with specific problems can write direct to Miss Standish and have any question answered free by. return mall. Send a stamped and self-addressed en velope In care of this newspaper. As you enter the hall the maid or butler will direct you to the ladies' dressing room. ' There remove your wrap, but not your bat, gloves or neckscarf, and go at once to . the room where the hostess is receiving. -.- As you pass through the hall to the front door drop a card for your hostess and one for each of the guests who may have been mentioned on the Invitation on the table or cardplate which stands there for this purpose. Refreshments usually are served in a room aside from that in which the hostess receives, and at the bidding of one of the young people who is assisting in the afternoon's entertainment, you make your way to the tea table, where you wiU be served with tea or chocolate and crisp, delicate sandwiches and cake. Beauty's Process for the Hands What to Cultivate. A good memory for faces, and facts connected with them, thus avoiding giv ing offense through not recognizing or bowing to people? or saying to them what had better been left unsaid. An unaffected, sweet, distinct and sym pathetic voice. .The American feminine voice 4s a target which has been hit hard many times, and very justly. Learn to be appreciative of the natural mellow tones possible to every woman and avoid the shrill voices that remind one of a large concourse of hens. Cultivate the charm of making little sacrifices quite naturally, as if of no ac count to yourself. Cultivate the habit of making allow ances for the opinions and feelings of others, as well as their prejudices. W can't all see things from the same angle In this world. If we did it would be a mighty dreary, monotonous old sphere. Cultlate the art of listening without Im patience to prosy' talkers. , and of smil ing at the twice or thrice-told tale or in cident. It really won't hurt you to hear it over again, and. then remember that you are never so charming as when you are making other persons think they are interesting. "-. The Discontented Woman. If she is unmarried, she is discon tented at the want of romance in her life; her. main desire in life is to change her father's home for one of her own. If she Is married, the causes of her discontent are multiplied indefinitely, and where she was out of harmony wlth one set of circumstances she Is now in discord with .twenty. She is discontented because her hus band is not her lover and marriage a perpetual courtship; because her hus band is irritable or because he is so good-natured that he maddens her with his stolidity. Or she is discontented because she' has so many household duties, because she has so few servants, (or because she has so many of them. Wherever, in short, the discontented woman is placed, it is just where she would rather not be. Life is a bewildering tangle at best, but the discontented woman is not the one to make it smoother. She is a general nuisance to herself an well as to the world at large. And the discontented woman is only' another name-for the selfish, unsympa thetic woman.. - ; KATHERINB MORTON. Any girl can do her own manicuring and keep her nails in perfect condition if she will spend one hour on them each week. To do this succeesfull you must buy: A pair of slender manicure scissors with thin, curved blades and sharp points that come tightly together when they are closed. Scissors used in eye surgery are, the best for this purpose and can be purchased at a first-class drug store for J1.26. Orange wood sticks with one blunt end and on sharp point; half a dozen for 10c. Emery boards; half a dozen. 5c. A pot of oily cold cream, not the dry sort used for the complexion, 25c. One cake of tinted polishing chalk, 30c. A scrubbing brush, 25c. One large-size buffer or polisher, which has a soft padding, price 40c, or a small buffer for c. lastly,' a thin, very finely grained file, 25c. You must prepare: - A small bowl of hot water made "sudsy" by 'shavings of castile soap. A comfortable seat for yourself where it is light, preferably .near a window, with the bowl of water, cold cream and manicuring implements on the window sill beside you and a clean bath towel to lay across the knees. Begin by shaping the nails and making them the desired length with the thin file. Start the file far down at the side, just scissors. If the cuticle is smooth do not cut it. Polish the nails by robbing the tlnfcpit chalk thickly on the chamois of the buf fer, then rub each nail hard with it for at least one minute. Then wash off all the chalk with the scrubbing brush and dry the hands. Finish the polish by rubbing a littls chalk on the palm of the hand, whteb. must be thoroughly dry, Just at the base ISING THE EMERY BOARD. CLIPPING THE CUTICLE.. of the fingers. Pass each nail over these cushion mounds until It has a mirror shine. You must not: Cut the nails with scissors. Or bring the least speck of blood to the surface when you cut the cuticle. Or use your manicure scissors to cut anything but the cuticle or soft flesh If you .wish to keep them In perfect condi tion. . Or use an old-fashioned thick nail file. The implement must be so thin that it will pass easily between the flesh and the white of the nails.- Lesson III will discuss "Hand Blemishes and How to Remove Them." Any reader desiring specific informal ion will get personal reply by mail free, if she incloses a stamped and addressed en velope to Katherine Morton, care of tills newspaper. Native Hawaiians Dying Off. When Hawaii was discovered by Captain Cook in 1778 it had a population of 200,000. There a.r now only 31,000 natives on the island. where the nail becomes imbedded In the flesh, and follow the curve of the finger to the top of the nail. Do the same on both sides of the nail, leaving the top in a point or gently curving to carry out the line of the finger. Loosen the cuticle by rubbing cold cream well into the skin around the fingers on both hands, and then soaking them in the bowl of hot water for five minutes. Wipe the hands dry as soon as you take them from the water. With the scissors lift the nail gently on either side, where lt; is lost, in. the flesh, and snip off any little corner which may remain from the filing, removing at the same time any hardened piece of flesh that might cause a hang nail. Press back the cuticle on the lower part of the nail with the blunt end of the or ange wood stick, bringing as much of the half-moon into view as is possible. Any rough edges of the cuticle which stand up. clip off carefully with the very tip of the To Account -for Strange Dreams. Nineteenth. Century. . I think very often our dreams are a Jumble of ideas that we have inherited, and that dreaming i largely a kind ot freo play of what I have called ancestral memory. We dream of things which, we have never experienced In our waking mo ments. I remember a " very realistic dream. It was a battle, and I was in a regiment of cavalry that received an order to charge. , The whole scene is viv idly before me as I write, and were I a.-, artist I could sketch the face of a mail who rode by my side. I can feel th throb of eagerness, the thudding of the horses', hoofs in the- mad rush as we quickened our pace to get to closer quar- ' ters with, those we wore pursuing. Suddenly the squadron of men in front opened, wheeling off to the right and left, and we were looking into the iron throats ' of -a masked battery. They opened lir . upon us a moment after the ear-epllttlng thunder, and I was In a hell of smoke, dust, blood, and metal; every piece seemed to sing a war chant of Its own. . Then I awoke, .and I was shouting "God! I never knew it was anything like this." Here surely Is something experienced by an ancestor which has descended from generation to generation and taken Kb place in my collection of lmpfcssions.