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About The daily Astorian. (Astoria, Or.) 1961-current | View Entire Issue (May 28, 2015)
BUTTERCUP B Buttercup in Nehalem makes chowder, such as traditional clam chow- der, left, and Thai veggie chowder, right to order. Restaurateur returns with novel take on chowder and ice cream Buttercup prepares chowders in a way I’d never imagined: to order. After stepping up to the counter and choos- ing from the four varieties, owner Julie Barker turns to the gas stove, puts down a pot and gets to work. Under the industrial burners are draw- ers full of ingredients — sliced potatoes, celery, carrots and so on. Into the pot they go, along with spices, cream and all the rest. Then, into the New Traditional Clam Chowder ($10 for 16 ounces, $18 for 32 ounces), go the clams, which have been heretofore kept raw. “They cook very quickly,” Barker says of clams, “and this way they don’t get rubbery.” ,QGHHGVHUYHGVWHDPLQJKRWDQG¿QLVKHGLQ the bowl with a dollop of red pepper butter, the substantial strips of locally sourced razor clams emerge with robust texture. The vegetables too DUH¿UPIUHVKDQGFULVS,QD buttery cream base the tastes of the individual compo- nents maintain more of their individual character than in traditionally prepared chow- der, where everything melds into a homogenized paste. It’s a novel approach and, my goodness, does it work. Considering Barker’s history, perhaps Buttercup’s success is no surprise. Be- fore opening on April 3, Barker was behind two re- nown North Coast eateries: She spent 16 years as the proprietor of Manzanita’s Blue Sky Cafe before mov- ing on to open Bread and Ocean, a bakery, deli and caterer, in 2003. Barker sold Bread and Ocean last winter then got right back to work on Buttercup. With counter service and no real dining area, Butter- cup does two things, chowder and ice cream, expertly. The decision to focus narrowly, Bark- er says, was driven by past experience: At her prior restaurants everyone wanted chowder and ice cream. The challenge of starting anew seems to in- spire Barker. Both the Blue Sky Cafe and Bread and Ocean were successful — and even be- loved — under her watch. (After she left, Blue 6N\ UHSRUWHGO\ ÀDJJHG7R QRXULVK KHU PXVH at Buttercup, she plans an ever-changing menu, heavy on collaboration. Each month she plans to work with local chefs and providers to create new chowders and ice creams. The decision to focus narrowly, Barker says, was driven by past experience: At her prior restaurants everyone wanted chowder and ice cream. 14 | May 28, 2015 | coastweekend.com May’s ice cream collaboration, in conjunc- tion with local massage therapist and food blogger Dana Zia, is Carrot Cake served in a cinnamon cone. The Halloween-colored des- sert features chunks of cake and an interesting sea salt balance to its sweetness (it was a bit salty for my taste). 0DQ\RI%XWWHUFXS¶VLFHFUHDPÀDYRUV for a scoop, $6 for two) are exquisitely com- SOH[.DI¿UOLPHOHDYHVWLFNOHWKH0DQJR6RU bet, and the Sour Cream Strawberry Rhubarb ¿QLVKHVZLWKD]LQJ7KHYDULHWLHVDUHP\ULDG and Barker keeps the samples coming. Into a demo cup she added Marshmallow to the Man- go Sorbet and the combination was sublime, the sharp fruitiness of the mango playing off the smooth, soft marshmallow cream — this, coming from a person who dislikes regular marshmallows. Along with lovely, layered “semifreddos” (a frozen mousse, $5) and teeming ice cream VDQGZLFKHVRU%XWWHUFXSRIIHUVYHJDQ ZDIÀHFRQHVDQGÀDYRUVLQFOXGLQJWKH0DQJR and a marvelously textured Toasted Coconut w/ FKRFRODWHVKDUGV7KHÀDYRUVDUHVRURXQGDQG rich you’d be hard-pressed to tell they’re vegan. Same goes for the Thai Veggie Chowder ($8 for 16 ounces, $15 for 32 ounces). Its coconut At Buttercup, vegan options abound, such as these vegan Mango Sor- bet and Toasted Coconut ice creams in a vegan waffl e cone. base is every bit as creamy as those using milk, though it reminds more of a curry than a chow- der (and that’s not a bad thing!). A sumptuous mix of veggies, including carrots, cabbage, asparagus, leeks, fried shallots and more, the Veggie Chowder is a textural delight. Shitake mushrooms even recreate a clam’s texture. Truly, Buttercup’s vegetarian and vegan op- tions are more than compromised afterthoughts — they’re every bit as hearty, rich and well- thought-out as the options for omnivores. (Such results, says Barker, are the product of many years in a relationship with a vegan.) The carnivorous, however, might also try the Prawn & Fennel Chowder ($10 for 16 ounc- es, $18 for 32 ounces). With a generous helping of sliced prawns, it was simple, slightly sweet, subtly — but expertly — spiced and, on a cold, gray day, supremely satisfying. (For what it’s mouth OF THE COLUMBIA COAST WEEKEND’S LOCAL RESTAURANT REVIEW Story and photos by THE MOUTH OF THE COLUMBIA • mouth@coastweekend.com Buttercup Rating: 35815 U.S. Highway 101 N., Nehalem 503-368-2469 HOURS: 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. Wednesday to Sunday. PRICE: $ – Bowls of chowder with bread cost $8 to $10. SERVICE: Take-out VEGETARIAN / VEGAN OPTIONS: Marvelous. Some of the best vegan dishes on the North Coast. Chowders are also gluten-free. DRINKS: None. worth: I took the Prawn Chowder to go and re-heated it the next day at home. Pre-made chowders for quick take-out are also available in a re- frigerator). All of Butter- cup’s chowders are gluten-free. (Rather than thickened with ÀRXUWKHEURWKJHWV its scant viscosi- W\ IURP ÀHFNV RI softened potatoes). Those seeking gluten can get it from the bread, which comes complimentary with every chowder from Bark- er’s former home, Bread and Ocean. Indeed, after spending nearly three de- cades running other restaurants on the North Coast, Barker knows all the best regional sources. They are displayed proudly: Misty Meadow Farm eggs, Jacobsen salts, R-evolu- tion garden produce, Community Supported Fishery, and so on. Barker bestows particu- lar reverence on her milk purveyor: Bennett Family Farm. Besides fundamentally great tastes, But- tercup makes chowder to order that everyone — those with allergies or dietary restrictions, and picky eaters — can partake. It’s a differ- ent approach, but thanks to top-notch, local in- gredients and an experienced hand, the results are astounding. Traditional makers should take heed: At Buttercup, Barker is — once again — blazing a brand new trail. KEY TO RATINGS below average average good excellent outstanding, the best in the Columbia-Pacific region