Image provided by: Crook County Historical Society/Bowman Museum; Prineville, OR
About Crook County journal. (Prineville, Or.) 189?-1921 | View Entire Issue (April 29, 1920)
.Page K CROOK COUNTY JOURNAL Costly Coat Is in Great Favor Heavy Outer Garment Is Distinc tive Article in Season's Wardrobe. USE FUR, VELVET AND CLOTH Favorite Materials Are Lovely at Well at Expensive Cape Ar rangementt Prominent in " Scheme of Evening Wraps. Frocks are lovely this season but after a cnroful study of the seasou's nodes one feels Inclined to say that ithe cont Is the distinctive article In the season's wardrobe coats are so handsome, so varied, so altogether to be desired, and also In those most de sirable forms so expensive, says leading fashion writer. One can buy a cheap coat, but un less pocketbook limitations positively enforce rigid economy, one is not like ly to buy a cheap coat. Temptation to extravagance lurks on every hand. It Is easy to be wise when folly does pot wear alluring guise ; but If a wom n gets Into a cout shop this season .with more money in her pocket than she intends to spend, the chances are that she will invest It all. Cloths, velvets, furs, all of the ma terials for the high class coats, are both lovely and costly. In addition, the modish coat Is one of such ample fullness that it calls for much of that same costly material. There Is no dodging high prices with that com bination of expensive material and plenty of It. Variety in Cost of Fur Coats. The smart fur coat varies In price with the kind and quality of the fur, but even Hudson seal and caracul mount up if freely used and trimmed with other fur. These are two stand ard furs for the coat of more mod erate price, and, while the seal, which as a matter of fact Is dyed muskrat, Is the softer and more becoming, caracul stands wear and weather more sturdily. The matter of becom Ingness Is settled by the big collar of long-haired fur or contrasting short haired fur that is likely to be used upon either the seal or the caracul. Noted recently were remarknbly smart-looking coats of caracul dyed In a bisque or tanish shade and In about three-quarter length or even shorter. The collars were draped in loose folds or made, as one especially noted, In hoodlike shape at the back. These models were unquestionably intended for rather dressy wear. But, to return to the subject of coats of exquisite cloths and velvets, so closely allied are these materials that In some instances one can scarce ly tell whether It Is the cloth or the fur that Is the foundation material for the wrap. Especially is this true with regard to the coats of the more ex pensive type. Smart Models Pictured. One cont, handsomely trimmed with fur, was of velours in a beautiful dark brown tone with quantities of beaver trimming. The body of the Coat of Navy Blue Duvetyn Trimmed With Opossum. coat was built upon stralglu lines but given the modish width at the hips by shaped pocketB of the beaver, which extended from the waistline to the coat hem. There was a large collar and cuffs of the beaver. A youthful, small round hat and round muff of the beaver accompany the coat. Another coat, of navy blue velours, rich in texture and with a wonderful bloom In ita soft surface Is trimmed with opossum, which gives the effect of chincllla and Is also tremendously effective In contrast with the soft dark blue velvety tones of the cloth. The coat under discussion Is made on the simplest of lines and has a large collar and large patch pockets and cuffs of the 0ossum. There Is a narrow girdle of the material. Velvet Wraps Are Lovely. Velvet coats and capes of this sea son are really lovely, and upon them the designers have lavished their skill and Inspiration as well as the hand somest of materials. There Is a great variety of line displayed In these coats Satin Frock Trimmed With Marten Fur and Gold Galloons. and because of the suppleness of the material It may be manufactured In a variety of ways. Such wraps invaria bly show a large fur collar and many ways of Introducing fur trimming. Often the collar Is so large that It covers the shoulders like an enormous fur cape. Again, there may be a vel vet collar with wide fur band trim ming. Another new -and effective model of velvet had a large fur hood falling down over the back of the mantle. The lower part of the wrap was banded by the fur. All Colors in Vogue. All the dark velvets are used for afternoon coats. Black, of course, has first place because of Its adaptability; but very dark browns, the dark greens, grays, prune, dark blue, the castor tones, amber and sulphur yel lows and various shades of reds ap pear In the display of afternoon coats. AH of these, without exception, are fur trimmed some In dark, long haired fur like skunk or lte cheaper relatives. But any and every effec tive type of peltry from sable to bea ver Is pressed Into service. Among the velvet coots much origi nality In sleeves, as well as In collars, Is possible. The dropped shoulder is emphasized by lines of fur and the sleeve wrinkles softly from elbow to wrist. The collar may be of velvet and banded by fur. Cape arrangements are seen upon some of the chic velvet coats, as well as upon cloth models, and enter Into the scheme of beautiful evening coats. But the evening coat Is another story. Afternoon cape coats having wide sleeves or just a wldevencircllng band of fur sewn Into the sides of the gar ment ore one of the smartest things this season. A charmingly picturesque cape coat Is of this type and made of blue velveteen. The deep yoke Is trimmed with several bands of fur. The lower part of the wrap Is attached to the shaped yoke with fullness. The arm slips through wide fur-trimmed bands nt the sides. An extremely smart coat and skirt costume Is made of brown velours trimmed with dyed squirrel of a dark er tone. The bodice .of the cont Is rather snugly fitted. Fullness Is In troduced at the hips and trimming consists of bands of the squirrel. The long shawl collar of fur fastens at the waistline with a large button. Fur Is Introduced on frocks and suits In all manner of ways. It edges openings, Is Inset in panels, and bor ders semi-fitted long-waisted bodices at the lower part and various other decorative uses are made of it Moro Chieftain Lived to Be Eighty-Three Years Old; Remarkable Age for Tropics The tombs of tome of the Moro chiefs of the Philippines are a curious combination of native Ingenuity and civilised finery. An ancient and dis tinguished Moro chieftain Is snld to have lived to be H.1 years old a re markable age for the tropica where men and women mature early and die young, according to American stand ards. This chieftain. Itengulto, was Hot only a distinguished warrior of a pow erful tribe, but also a wise diplomat He held his tribe under firm control during ninny turbulent periods. He was usually at pence with the Span iards when they had control of the Islands, but when he occasionally struck, perhaps on the advent of a new Spanish governor-general, he struck hard, and with such savage ferocity and good generalship, followed by a masterly disappearance of Iho entire tribe Into the Jungle fastnesses, that the Spaniards, after some show of pur suit, were glad to make a peace treaty and leave Itengulto to the mnnngement and administration of his own tribal affairs. When the Americans took pos session of the Philippines, Itengulto with unusual discrimination for a na tive refused to be led Into the Agul naldo revolution, maintaining a digni fied but armed and watchful neutral ity, and when he saw clearly, long ahead of the other native chiefs, the rising star of the Americans, he grace fully suggested a coalition or treaty with the United States which nearly took the breath away from the Ameri can authorities, some of whom hnd about concluded that the only wny to make peace with the Moro was with a Krag rifle. Bengulto's body lay In state for 33 days wlihln his tomb, constructed of bamboo framework, but decorated with white cloth niter the Moslem fashion, for he and his tribe were de vout Mohammedans. The body of the old chief was placed In a sitting posture. g JUST TO LAUGH Why He Raved. Mrs. Myles: "I hear Mrs. Styles has a new hat which cost $40. Have you heard her rave about It?" Mrs. Wyles: "No, I haven't; but my husband heard her husband doing con siderable raving about It" A Convincing Alibi, "You ought to be as rich as Brown." "I know It, my friend, but you see I'm more lib eral with my wife than he Is with his." Drilling Them In. Wright: "I see by the paper that electrically-driven drills have been In vented for surgical operations on the human skull." Penman: "Do not despair, old mnn; they'll succeed In making people see your Jokes yet." He Got Whaled. Jlmmie I put a tack on teacher' chair yesterday. Willie Did you? I'll bet he won't sit down In a hurry again. Jlmmie No; and neither will L Satisfactory Evidence. Mrs. June Did you water the ferns In the draw ing room? Maid Yes'm. Don't you hear the water drip ping on the car pet? Too True. 'Topi" "Yes, my son." "Is fifty dollars very much money?" "It all depends whether you mean when I'm earning It or when your mother Is spending It, my boy." Upraised Arm and Open Palm Meant Soldier Had No Dagger The military salute so familiar to every soldier and scout dates back to very early days, notes Boys' Life. At first It was not Intended in the least to show respect to superiors. The up raised arm with the open palm ex tended was meant merely to show that the soldier did not carry a dagger In his hand and could not attack If he wanted to. An even more remarkable change has come In the meaning of the custom of retiring backward from the presence of royalty. In very early times men backed away from a king to protect themselves from being kicked. Cakewalk Really Irish. Although we usually associate the cakewalk with negroes, says London Answers, the original cake dance was popular In Ireland before the negroes knew It, a cake being awarded to the best dancer. What Birthmarks Indicate. According to a French scientist, birthmarks in families not now of good social position indicate that they are of knightly descent, the marks be ing due to the fact that their pos sessors' ancestors wore armor. 9m FOUND HIS Lester Anlier. mui or Mrs. Itorolhy Archer ot Toledo, O., with wireless set with which lie found his sister, Cleo, aged seventeen, for whom ho nnd his mother had been searching for l.'l years. No trace could be found of the girl shortly after silo had been placed In a children's home uenr Lima, O., until one of many wireless appeals sent out by Lester located her on a farm near Kink ford, O. Cleo Is shown at (he right Magic of Law Puts Millions in 9 Pockets Forgotten Poor Cousins Share in Estate of Wealthy Oil Man. MILLIONAIRE LEFT HO WILL Wealth Comes to Aged People Whose Lives Have Been Largely Filled With Hardships Hunt for Heirs Is Difficult. Wheaton, III. Satisfied smiles spread over nine faces In the corridors of the red courthouse here recently, for nine persons, whose lives had been largely filled with hardships, knew that within u few weeks they would be rich. Illch Is the only applicable word wealth to these people had been nothing but a dream. Judge 8. L. Itathje of the DuPnge county court had Just Indicated that five of the nine were legal heirs to the $11,000,000 ( state of William P. Cowan, former president of the Standard Oil company of Indiana, who died at his Wheaton country home In the summer of 1018. The other four were hus bands and wives of the heirs. Nine to Share $2,500,000. With tho establishment of heirship by the five relntlves of the wealthy oil mnn the total number of heirs- who will receive a share of the estate is nine. After expenses have been tie ducted, according to attorneys, the es tate will total more than $'.'.500,000. Each of the nine heirs will receive something like $:on.ooo when the In heritance taxes are paid. Three of the heirs nro more than seventy years of ntr". one Is ninety, the youngest Is fort v-four years old. None of them remember personally the mnn whose ih-ith brought them this benefaction. Tut two ever saw him. They look upon their Inheritance ns some vague dretim of pnradlse. The heirs who established their claims are: William Snxt'in, seventy-two years old, Eagle, Mich. Walter Snxton, seventy-two years old, Waucaustn, Mich. Charles Saxton, sixty-eight years old. Elsie. Mich. Mrs. Caroline Saxton Ilnrt, fifty eight years old, Grand Ledge, Mich. Mrs. R. B. Colby, forty-four years old. Cadillac, Mich. William and Walter Saxton arc twins. William is married and his wife was In Wheaton with him. Mrs. Colby and Mrs. Hart had their hus bands along, too. Other Cowan Heirs. The other heirs who have estab lished sufficient evidence of relation ship to Mr. Cowan to win an Indica tion of equity from Judge Rathjo are : Judson Phelps, ninety yenrs old, De troit, Mich. Henry B. Stlllwell, seventy years old, Oloversvllle, N. Y. William G. Stlllwell, seventy-two years old, Springfield, MnRs. Heirs at law of Mrs. Helen Shad bolt, Plymouth, N. Y who was ninety five years old when she died a few weeks ago. All of the heirs are cousins first, second, or third. No nearer kin could be found by Alfred C. Hoy, public ad ministrator of DuPnge county. The day's hearing before Judge Rathje did not close the case. A few more depositions must be taken, a few more weeks must elapse before the Jurist can enter a decree. But the Saxton boys are happy. When In 1918 it was learned that Mr. Cowan, a successful business man and one of the rich residents of the Chicago Golf club colony ot Wheaton, had died nd left no will, Whenton wondered. Then It was announced that there were no heirs In this state. Mrs. Cowan's death had preceded her husband's, and there were no children and no brothers or sisters. Public Administrator Hoy took Im mediate charge of the estate and ap pointed Charles W. Hadley and George Thoma his attorneys. Mr. Hadley Is state's attorney of DuPage county and has a weakness for flaring ties. LONG-LOST SISTER BY .Ml, r r jft nV V N'ue attorneys presented him with a now one In court. For more than a year (ho only rela tives Mr. Hoy could locate were the Stlllwell boys, Judson Phelps, nnd Mrs. Shndbotdt. A few mouths ago one of the Sax ton boys, Walter, read a newspaper article which referred to Mr. Cowan's denth and Ills estate. A few days later the Saxton claim was entered. The Saxtona claimed lo be the chil dren of two daughters of Peter Cowan, Cayuga county, N. YM tho grandfather of William P. Cowan. Their claim was established by a lunrrtnge license, census reports, old tintypes, and testimony, one of the twins saw Mr. Cowan when ho was threo years old. Another Saxton snld he was born In the Cowan home, Itut further than that they bad no person al recollection of their wenlthy rein tlve. Views on Liquor. Walter and William Saxton are In terested In airplanes, but they don't THEY ARE MAD Night Club Fever Sets Gay Life Is Re sumed. in as ENGLISH LEARN TO DANCE Shortage of Eligible Young Men Puts Crimp In Dancing Aspirations of Many English Girls Resort to "Paid Escort" London. "Making a night of It" be came almost a lost art In England during the lute wur. The owl and the Iirlton were scurcely on speaking terms. In tho first place. It wasn't patriotic to "stay out ot night." Then there was the absence of lights, the shortage of taxis, the ban on dancing and the Gothns.. So nights were spent In bed, and the only time a Londoner saw the sun rise was when he got up early to work In his allotment. London, once tho gayest of cities, became a silent tomb of somber grays nnd deep shadows after nine o'clock at night. I can remember when It was actually a penal offense to strike a match In the street. But those who only saw It In wartime wouldn't know the old place now I Tho grays are purples now and the lights ore bright and red, nnd In Pic cudllly Circus they have four electric signs that flash on and off, London has acquired the night club fever. From 11 p. m. to 8 a. m. has become the recognized space of time for worshiping at the shrine of Terp sichore. How tho Night Is Spent. "Are you dancing tonight?1 no long er moans are you going to spend the hours between dinner time and mid night at a hall or club. It means are you going to Rector's, to the Grafton gnllerles or to Brett's, picking up your party somewhere about midnight and never thinking of going home until the milkman's horse has got his second wind and the pink finish of n London dawn colors the cold night mists. Then, nnd not till then, does ona turn homeward In a prlvnte car, If one has one, or n taxi, if one can get one, with perhnps a brief halt at tho nenr est coffee stall for n cup of muddy fluid which tastes like nectar at that hour, but which, taken six hours Inter, would spoil one's whole dny. But such Is night life In a big city! The night clubs of London are n peace product. , They range from tho ultra-exclusive ones of Bond street to the frankly democratic and even more so ones of Leicester square and Char ing Cross road clubs to suit the taste and deplete the pocketbook of every one. London has Its closing hour, and that Is ten o'clock. At none of the WIRELESS f believe they wilt spend much of their fortune on the aircraft. "You can get a drink of red eye or an airplane ride for $!,"' nld Wal ter. "I believe the airplane rldo would be the best. You can get the same results from either one. They'll both kill you." Walter and Mr, Hart have been sex tons In different cemeteries ever since they ran remember. "We been buryln' 'em fast as they'd die," said Mr. Hurt "Hut I reckon we'll retire now. Maybe not though.' Mrs. Colby Isn't sura what she'll do with her money. Neither Is Mrs. Charles Saxton sure what she will do with her husband's, but Elsie, Mich., Is going lo have smo thrills, she snld. "I guess we could all go In tho mov ing picture business," said Mrs. Caro line Hart. (She doesn't like to be called Carrie.) "Hut maybe we'll all retire now." "Pretty hard to quit work," said William Saxton, "wo ve been working so long. I'm kinds glad we heard about It, though. No, I ain't got no daughters for any one to marry." Mrs, Charles Saxton said she hnd two daughters, but thought they could Ink care of themselves. Meantime 11 lawyers, who have been In the litigation, were conferring In the Judge's chambers on a tomb stone to be erected over Mr. Cowan's grave. "1 hope them lawyers leaves us some of the money," mild Walter, JAZZ IN LONDON clubs or dance halls Is any form of In toxicating liquor sold openly. Ostensi bly one does It on pink lemonade and cider cup unless one hus a large hip pocket or knows the proprietor. Every place In I-ondon which dis penses iati music and French pastry during the wee sunt' hours Is n "club." In most of them membership consists merely of filling In a form at tho door. Many, however, are sure enough clubs, whero only members and their guests may dance. Of tho former class, Rec tor's, on Tottenham court road, Is un questionably the most popular. Need less to say, It has an American orches tra ; all the dance clubs huvo bonds that aro either Amerlcnn or good Imi tations of American musicians, Hector's draws the theatrical crowd, folks from behind the footlights as well as those who have been to a "show" -and are out to make a night of It. It charges $.1 a ticket, or $7.(50 for a couple, which Includes a light, very light, "buffet supper." London Is Jazs mnd ; they are learn ing to dance over here, and when an Englishman dances he likes to get plenty of exercise. Woo to tho slow or tender of foot when the band strikes up a fnst one-step. The shnrtogo of eligible young men has, of course, put a severe crimp In the dancing aspirations of ninny Eng lish girls. This hns led to the "paid escort," usually an amiable youth with enchanted feet and suave ballroom manners and a rented dress suit. WOMEN MOTOR COPS Some of the squud of London wom en motorcycle police starting off on duty. These policewomen did such fine work that the machines, whlcl they run themselves, were given them eo they might do greater work.