THE DAILY CAPITAL JOURNAL, SALEM, OREGON, SATURDAY, SEPT. 18. 1915. TffREE Margaret Mason Writes of Gotham s Fads and Fashions By MARGARET MASON. I . ' " , . , Al. M : Vhen Sue kicks up her heels this fall Believe me fur will fly ( I p0r she'll wear fur upon her boots j And they'll come up o high. ; i New York, Sept. 17. We now all ; h&ve this much iu common with the bus j conductor well turned limbs are no treat to us. With skirts ever going a j little bit higher we are fairly surfeit-; ei with displays of hosiery. I "An men ai it uiue noun muxes i nine, is 1118 oug 01 tn- wrc aua just nine inches above the toe line is the proper fall length for this gar ment. What it lacks in length, how ever, it will more than make up in width. .Six or seven yards round is the average circumference of the hem. Just to bring a bit of brightness into the lives of all save the blind many skirts are lined with a vivid scarlet, green, blue, or, orange silk from the hem to the knee. This glimpse of color is very effective flaring out as milady strides up the avenue or steps lightly into her waiting car, be it trolley or Bolls Eoyce. The same tint used for the skirt lining also faces up the inside of the long flaring bell sleeves and touches up the neck line and the pockets. Everything seems to be striving for the higher life as the days grow shorter. The skirts and collars are climbing to ear tips and hats are going them bet ter. Some of the collars shown are nothing short of amazing. They are cut like deep flaring cuffs and stand up uni formly around the head. It may be an open secret that lovely woman has two legs to stand on but whether she has a mouth and a chin now remains a dark mystery thanks to these new collars. For the woman who just won't stick her head into the noose of a choker col lar the designers ai offering conces sions in the form of a collar open in front but jutting up all around the mase of the brains and aural appendages be hind. All the fur collars on suits, gowns and coats are high and swathing as the pocketbook will permit. Positively their only limits seem financial. What SOCIETY ; (Continued from Page Two.) Hotels 'and meals Mrs. B. F. South wick, Mrs. C. S. Hamilton. MtiutcAf r K P. Purletimi "Mra. Kurghnrdt, Mrs. Cartwright and Mrs. Leo. ilall Mrs. U. U. Brown ana -Mrs. f. A. Elliott. Miss Helen Calbreath and her beauti ful mount, Susie-Seal, are fast friends, according to tho Oregon . Journal. "Susie-Seal is a perfect little lady," affectionately stated the mistress, w jen the camera found them out together hunting a few especially green and ten- der tufts of grass. "In the busy life of the studio," said Miss Calbreath, who is a piano teacher, "there is no relaxation or exercise that caii . com pare with horseback riding." Miss Calbreath is one of the most capable, ambitious and thoroughly in dependent girls among tiie many tal ented professional women of the city, and her advice seems to have a mes sage. She ilias traveled extensively abroad, and in the eastern states, and has been a keen observer. "There is no companion for the open like a horse whose unobtrusive presence seems a part of it all. Then the ex ercise is so healthful. "An exhilirating gallop over a coun try road! and all tho cares and worries of a moment before are gone, the mind is free and rested, and 'all is well with the world.' ' ' With a party of friends I covered a route on horseback this summer from Portland to Tillamook and on to As toria, which most of previously had taken by motor. We all declared the horseback riding to be far the more enjoyable trip. We wandered along, peeping into every nook and corner of the wonderful wildness along the road. The horses were keen for the new road they were traveling and seemed to enter into the trip as an exploration lark. "Dancing, golf, tennis and kindred spurts may all oivtrihute to the grace ad charm of a girl's carriage, but a brislv gallop in the wind will bring col or to the checks and an open happy, healthy countenance that no other sport on enrth can touch." Miss Calbreath wns at one time a resident of Salem,' when her father, Dr. Cnlhrcathf was superintendent of the : f - " ' . ,t ; :. ., -..;; - - ...... - - . . : J V. if- J- f.L " Th. Ladies' Doubl. Quartette, who th.8Uter1rUa.,e. Pnnel: Enstx. fur is left over from tollors, cuffs and wide banding on the hems of the skirts is used to encircle the tops of the new high shoes. Of a necessity to keep up with, the skirt line the boots and shoes have had to come up in tho world also and they are proportionately higher than last year's models. The smart magpie effects of black kid or patent' leather with pipings and buttons of white nuve bandings of white fur around the top. With her irorsies tliirs embellished with the relic of a cats ninth life tho winsome wearer may well be designated as "pussy foot ed." m Bronze boots banded in skunk arc stunning and a pair of pearl grey kid dress , boots with chinchilla fcre ex quisite. All white ones are also shown with the white fur tops for wear with the stunning white velours broadcloth suits deeply banded a la Pousse with wide bands of white fox. Buttons or laces are a mere matter of personal fancy as to shoos fastenings this fall and winter. Both are equally good just as long as they know their proper place and keep it. No more straying from the middle front to side or back ways. Colored tops will stil be worn iu moderation but will oftener be developed in soft tinted kid than suede or cloth. Heels will be Jiigl French affairs and camps are shorter. As for hosiery, it is a perfect riot of color and design. One bronze pair not content with a pair of conserva tive clocks, one on each side, abolishes the side clocks and has three up the front. This timely style is sure to be striking. Others are embroidered in contrast ing shades and stripes, checks and dots are conspicuous details. Open' works and lace effects are favored for even ing wear as aro metallis embroidered hose for wear with the metallic brocade gowns and gold and silver brocaded slippers. , . Plain sheer stockings of solid but gorgeous hues are fovared for wear with the high shoes and often match up the linings of the skirts. Oh there's bound to be a lot of excite ment on foot when the new fur trimmed boots and giddy hosiery gets in place Oregon state hospital, and was prom inent in the social life here. Dorothy and Dolores Munson, the twin daughters of Mr. and Mrs. Leslie Munson, celebrated their fifth birth days, Friday afternoon at tho home of their parents, 5(i5 .South Liberty street. The afternoon was merrily passed with games and music, followed by refresh ments served on the lawn. Those who assisted were: Mrs. Roma Hunter, Mrs. Jol'n Bnyno. The guests were: Misses Marjorio Marcus,. Marjoric Webb, Mil- area Elements, x ranees ainuc, f ranees Brassard, Yvonne Aufranc, Mnycle Hunter and Master Kenneth Webb. Mr. and Mrs. W. D. Smith, of East Center street, are week-end guests at the A. M. Crawford home in Port land. . Takes Everybody Riding In Handsome New Car (Capital Journal Special Service.) Miss Christine Harold, of Glen Har old farm, near yumaby, motored down to Claxtur in her Studebnker six on Wednesday and during the afternoon took the following people out in 1. elegant machine: Mrs. O. S. McMunn, Mrs. Ed Matthes, Mrs. Thos. Newton, Airs. Ilios. Day, .Maiguente Alatthos, Augusta Matthes, Marion and Eddie Matthes. Violet and Neal Newton, Mrs. Marie Harold, Miss Marie Harold and Mrs. Alex Harold. The trip which in eluded a visit to Salem bv the river road and return by the Pacific highway. also a visit to the matchless flower gardens at some of the state institutions. where dahlias, asters and geraniums are seen in such profusion and perfection as to almost pass belief. Miss Harold and her young chauf feur, Ralph Harold, share the honors equally with the Studebnker, and -during the three mouths the Harolds have owned the machine 154 people outside of their own kinsmen, have enjoyed outings, and 1,537 miles hnve been traversed enjoying beautiful Oregon. The Eosehurg Review, speaking of Riddle's venison barbecue, says: "Pen dleton has her 1 Round-Vp'; other cities have their various attractions that win a proportionate recognition; but a new event is now a yearly certainty and it seems destined to place Riddle, Or., on the map of every real sportsman and 'good fellow' in the state." with tfc. Buin. .Men'. Q?'"" W Must Be In Good Health and Right Frame of Mind Before Accepted The difference between a marine and a soldier, seems to be that while a sol dier fights only on land, a marine has the training of a soldier and fights on both land and water. In other words, the marine is the landing force of the navy and may Bcrve either on cruisers and battle ships, or on land dutv as sort of a police force. sergeant W. B. Schuman, of the Western Reeruiting division of the United States Marine Corps, has estab lished a recruiting station for the navy, with rooms in the postoffice building. This will perhaps become a permanent recruiting station for the marine corps, and any young man who has ambitions to spend four years, not on the big ships firing the big guns, but iii the marine corps, would do well to call on Sergeant Schuman. After a young man is once accepted, he may have the opportunity of becoming a gunner, and again,' if his ability does not run in that line, he may never touch a big gun, and never serve oir a cruiser or battle ship. For a recruit, tho age limits are 19 to 30 years, and if not of age, the ap plicant must have the consent of his parents. The height of the prospective marine may be anywhere between five feet and six inches, to six feet and one inch, and weighing anywhere between 130 and 210. The pay as a starter is $15 a month, everything furnished and paid except luxuries and the laundry bill. If he be comes a good marksman, the pay is raised to $17 a month, and $18 for a sharp shooter. An expert rifleman is good for $20 a month, and no chance to spend money except on luxuries and laundry. From a private, the next pro motion is to corporal at $21 a month, and next to sergeant at $30 a month, everything found.. The young man applying at the re cruiting station will have the following experiences. Upon first applying to Sergeant Schuman at his office in the postoffice building, he must first satis fy the recruiting officer that he is with in the age limit, is a born or naturalized citizen, and that he comes within the height and weight requirements. There is no literary test, but he must, satisfy the sergeant that he can read and write intelligently and has a fair understand ing of arithmetic. Thus lar it is easy sailing. Nexi comes the physical test, and particular attention is given to the eyes and feet. If the sergennt is satisfied so fur with the applicant, he is passed on to Dr. B. L. Stecves for a medical ex amination. If everything is all right so far, the prospective recruit is sent to the Port land office for re-exnininntion by the officer in charge of the Portland dis trict, and also re-examined by the reg ular marine corps doctor. from thei time he leaves Salem, nil expenses arc paid. In fact, the young man is put to no expense whatever at any stage of, his efforts to become a marine. If everything is O. K. at the Port land office, the recruit is sent to the marine barracks at Mare Island, about 30 miles from (San Francisco to the re cruiting rendevous, where he is placed under observation for a week or ten days. Right here is perhaps the most severe test, as a marine corps does not want nny young man unless his habits are right and he has the proper outlook, into life. If accepted, he is put on the govern ment pay roll, given his two uniforms, that of undress blue, and the Khaki, and all his underclothing and other wearing apparel, including shoes. If not ac cepted at this stage, he is sent home at the government's expense and his efforts to join the navy hasn't cost him a cent. The recruit has now become a real marine and begiiiB his instructions in foot movements, drilling, athletics, box ing, setting up drill, Swedish exercise, all of which will require five hours each day. Ho will bo in a company of from 300 to 500 recruits doing the same thing, as the government." has but one recruiting station west of the Mississip pi river. After 14 weeks of this work, he becomes a fulr fledged marine and is assigned to a company. Right here, he has the privilege of selecting to a certain extent the sta tion in which he will serve. If he wishes foreign service, he may be sent fZrJ S Barton, Girls of Willamette Enjoyed Short Hike Thursday the girls of Willamette as sembled at Katon hull at 5 o'clock and started out cu a hike, carrying their lunch with tham. They journeyed to the Polk county side of the river south of the bridge and there built a camp fire and proceeded to roast their "hot dogs." College songs were song and talks were made by the cider girls. The hike wns a means of all getting acquainted aud it was thoroughly en joyed by the "rookeeses." Tho crowd returned about 7:30. The annunl Stag Mixer of the 'col lege Y. M. C. A. will be held this eve ning in the university gym at 8 o'clock. One of the features of the evening's entertainment will be the gool old game of "hot hand," which does more than anything else to cause the newly arrived "rooks" to have a warm and tender feeling for upper classmen. Speeches by the most popular men jn school activities will be heard and the social committee has arranged suitable eats for the occasion. - WASHINGTON WIQ-WAGS. By George Martin. Mr. Consul Gottschnlk needn't kick becnusc it tnkes 107 duys to get a let ter from the tT. S. to Brazil. We know a man, not fifty miles from here, who swears that $5" he borrowed in 1010 was mailed to us 5 years ngo. We haven't received that letter yet. "The wild, black orange of Corrien tes is a sure cure for finmosis," reports Consul Keena from Argentina; and we certainly have to hand it to the consul for scaring up an unheard-of fruit to cure an undreamed-of disease. Consul Keena also reports that Ger many's glass trade with Chile is all broken up by the war. Although it panes us to learn this we ennnot re frain reminding the German glnssmnk ers that "People who live in glass houses shouldn't declare wnr." Oysters, .savs the Bureau of Fisher ies were legal tender when the Indians ruled America. Ah, those must hnve been good old days, when a ninn could march down to tho treasury with a shovel and a sack and come home a millionaire, However, there was always the dnn ger confronting a man with a family that his children would ent three or four hundred thousand-one-dollar bills when he wasn't looking. We can almost sec the busy little bnnliclerks shelling nickels. Probably the elite ate nothing but $5 gold pieces. But, how could a man tell whether he wns in a bank or a restaurant f Be cnusc the banker didn't wear aprons? Mage. to Peking, China, lloubiulu, or one of two stations in the Philippine Islands. Foreign service and service on a battle ship increases the pay 20 per cent. Just before the recruit begins his active service, he is allowed a furlough of about two weeks on full pay, al though he pays his own expenses while taking this vacation. At the end of 30 years, he is retired on three-fourths pay, or ne can quit t lie service at any time. According to Sergeant Schuinun, the greater part of the recruits come from the country or the smaller towns, and that so far, he has had six applications. The government is satisfied if a recruit ing station secures two men cuch month, if any fond mother is of the opinion that her son will be in bad company in the murine corps, the sergeant thinks sue tins anotiier guess coming, as tne marine corps has ruised its general standard and a mun must be not only physically, but mentally well qualified to finally be permitted to don the murine corps uniform. THE CHURCHES Eugene Bible University WillJConduct Rally The Eugene Bible university, located at Eugene, Ore., nnd sustained by the Christian churches of the west will con duct a greut rally in the First Chris tian church of this city Sunday next. The Eugene Bible university is just entering the. twenty-first year and will celebrate its twentieth anniversary twentieth anniversnrv November 17. This university is locat ed adjacent to the 'ampus of the state university and dining its twenty years of service has earned a place in the hearts of the people of the state of Oregon. The university in preparation for a proper celebration nt its twentieth an niversary has put in the field a repre sentative team for tr.c purpose of pre senting its claims to those who have a I right to henr them, mis team consists of the following well known work ers: Otho H. Williams, for six years the minister of the First Church of Bellinghnm, Wash. Mr. Williams is a clear, forceful speaker. He is eloquent : nnd masterful in his address, nnd will i gh-c the principal address of the day; i the Gilfilen Hntlev quartette, all the Unombers of which are graduates of the Eugene Bible university, is one of the I most popular combination of voices that ' . i .1.- m. -i 1. ever appeareo in oi'- '-iiiibohh ihhi:h Thev have appeared in conventions, both local and national, and Interde - nominntion as well as others rs. nlwsvs be- ing enthusiastically received. Tn the nntionnl convention held at f.os Angeles this year they preceded Wm. J. Bryiin nnd were compelled by that great audi ence to return four times before it would give ear to that great speaker. This is only one of many incidents that goes to show that no one can af ford to miss this crent opportunity. K. j C. Sanderson, president of the milver ! itv. will also be prctnt. Others of I the team who will be present are: (i. 8. O. Humbert, field secretary! Leon I Mvers the pastor nt The Dalles, and Abe F. Bennett, evangelist. Aside from the regular offerings tnk THE . . . .. . . . . M . .. We are head- tt, quarters for the famous "Moss Rose" draper ies, and have some very at tractive d e signs at pop- tt t ular prices. tt Trunks tt See our new line of Trunks just re- ::" ceived. Prices right, sold on our easy ;;; payment plan. $3-75 and up. Brass Bed special, 2-inch t post, 5 1-2-inch fillers special $6.35. 2-inch post, 7 7-8-inch fil lers, special $12.50. there will be no offerings taken in the church. The services will be on a high plane from first to lust but is given without any admission price or silver offering. All are urged to conic and en- joy this treat, Free Methodist. No. 1228 North Winter street. Sun day services: Sabbath school 11:45, Preaching at 11 a. m. and 7:45 p. m. Prayer meeting Thursday 7:45 p. m. W. J. Johnston, pnstor. South Salem Friends. Corner of South f oiiiinercinl and Washington streets, II. K, lVmberton, pastor. Bible school nt 10 a. m., B. ('. Miles, superintendent. ..Meeting for worship and preaching nt 11 n. in., and 7:30 p, m. Christina Kndeavor meet ing nt 0:30 p. m. Prayer meeting Thursday at 7:30 p. in. First Methodist F.pjscfpal, Corner State and Church streets, Richard N. Avison, minister, 9:00 a, in., Class meeting. 0:45 a. in., Sabbath school, Messrs. Schramm and tlilkey, su perintendents. 11:00 a. m., Morning worship, sermon by tne pastor. 0:30 p. m., Intermediate League, .Mrs. M. , Pindley, superintendent. (1:30 p. in., Kp worth League, Misses Genevieve Avison and Kva Heott, presidents. 7:30 p. in., Evening worship, sermon by the pastor. First Congreirational. .Tames Klvin, pastor. Sunday school meets promptly at 10 o'clock, Prof. W. I. Htuley, superintendent. Morning service at 11 o'clock. Subject, "Sources of Strength." Christ inn Kndeavor meeting nt 0:30. Regular evening serv ice nt 7:30. Subject, "The Story of Nomnn." Mid week meeting Thursday evening at 7:30, Subject, "The Lord's Prayer." First Presbyterian, The pastor, Carl 11. h'lliott, will be gin in the morning service a serios of 10 monthly Bcrinona on the Hebrew proph ets. The one Suiiduy morning will be in t.1tc unturo jot) introductory to that course and will aim to make clear the ft of men the prop tiers were una ineir large place in ine um lesiiiniini mm' omy. Studies of individual prophets will be given month by month. The ev ening sermon will be "The Duty of the Home und Church iu Relation to the Public School," appropriate to the op enening of the schools on Monday morn ing. Miss Hurton will sing. The Young People's meeting is he ld nt H:4fl o'clock and young people are invited to attend. Snnd'ay school meets at 0:45 o'clock, Castle Chapel, United Brethren. Corner Seventeenth street and Ne braska avenue, II. H. Dorks, minister. W. W. Rosebrnugh, Sunday school su perintendent. Sunday school, 10 n. ni. Officers, teachers n,,n J"'iilH are urged ami expected to b present. Morning worship, 11 o'clock, subject, "I'nity With Christ." Christian Kndeavor, (1:45, Mrs. J. J. I.oter, lender. The gospel in song und sermon, 7:15. Mid week prayer meeting Thursday, 7:30 p. ' m. As a ciiuren we. inse p.cs.m- ,., 1 supporting every issue that promotes rignteousness, mnm jmt mm n-nK- ions dignity. You are ulwiiys welcome here and are invited to make us a visit. I Refort.ied. I Comer Capitol ami Marlon streets., U' fl 1 Intiknnnirier. I.listor. SlllldllV1 school nt 10 a. m, Morning worship In j German at 11 o'clock, subject, "Jssne.h sr." Evening service in English at 7:30. Subject, " Religion j What Is Itf" Unitarian. Corner of Chemeketa and Cottage street. Richard F. Tis'her, minister. Morning service at 11 o'clock, subject, STORE THAT SAVES YOU MONEY MOSS ROSE DRAPERIES ill :tniinfes rtm M .. ra mm h u p u Ni l i ll la IN 25 lbs. Pure Silk Floss Mattress, fancy art tick, special this week. only $7.55 f7LLJJ3fw. HOMEfFmNISHERS iCOf. COURT & NIGH STS. school begins the first Sunday in Octo- ber as do tho "Social Service Meet- ings." All friends of liberal religion mid progressive thought are cordially invited to our meetings. Lutheran. Kast State and Kighteenth streets, (ieorge Koehler, pastor. Sunday school German and Knglish at 10 u 'clock, Divine service at 10:30 a. m. No oven- ing service. . Lutheran Service. St. John's Kvungelicul 'Lutheran church, Sixteenth and A streets, Kugle- wood. 11. W. Gross, pastor. At the leg- ulur morning service 10 a. m the new instructor of St. John's day-school, Prof. K. Schabaclier, will be inducted into his new field of labor. All are welcome. uerman meinour. Corner Thirteenth nnd Center streets, NOTICE! On account of the rush of business following the announcement of our Sixth Annual Fall Opening, ami also on account of sickness, we hnve been unablo to wait on the largo number of customers, old ami new, who flocked in to take udvantage of the special reduction which wo made for this week only. Rnther thun disappoint these people, we've de cided to CONTINUE THE SALE ONE WEEK MORE During which the bh mo special low prices will prevail. We will ur Tango to take caro of all who come. Store will be open evenings during the sale. D. H. MOSHER Tailor to Men and Women 344 STATE STREET Best By Every Test ('Ji . . vj...1 ..... r I i- -f ..... .. Seemster Bro. Grocery, I. Pwyans Grocery, Phone an order to us and see for yourself the superior qualities of the" Sunny Brook Ice Cream. Sunny Brook Dairy Phone 222. We have many pat terns of scriras.it voiles, laces, nets, sandour tt and sundown d r a p e r i es it from 12yc a yard to $1.50. if Call and in- II spect our $t stock of Quality Fur niture. EXCHANGE DEPARTMENT Keg. 28 Buby Buggy, spec. 113.50 Reg. 33 Kx. Tublo, siuure, 14.05 Reg, $10..-0 Sturgis flo-Cart, 1.35 ; ; Keg. if.-) Dining Table, spec, iflo.75 Keg. 20 Reed Proaiubulutor $8.35 A. J. Weigle, pastor. Sunday school at 10 a. in. and communion service, con ducted by District Superintendent 'dev. K. K. lleit.el, lit 11 o'clock. Rev. Ilert.ler will preach iu Knglish nt Pintum Sunday evening. Salvation Army. Services will bo condticteil l,v tlm ! Sulvation Army corner of State and , Liberty streets, ns follows: HaturdH), S p. m.; Sunday Sunday school, 1 :.'!! i p. m. Christian pruiu meeting, 3 p. in. ', Salvation meeting, 8 p. in. Other week- . niClir meetings will be omitted until j October 1. Captain nnd Mrs. Kelso, . Highland Friends. Comer Highland and Kim street:!. Sabbath school, 10 a. nt., Karl l'ruitt, superintendent. Meetings for worship, 11 a. in. and 7:15 p. m. Christian Kn deavor, 0:30 p. m. Prayer nieetinu; Thursday, 7:45 p. m. Josephine Hock i ett, pastor, Phone MU5. Ask for Sunny Brook Ice Cream. Ask for it at the following fountains: Poole's Drug Store, Red Cross Pharmacy, Opera House Dg. Store, Wonder Candy Kitchen, Globe Confectionery, E. M Miller, Turner,