Daily capital journal. (Salem, Or.) 1903-1919, April 25, 1914, Page PAGE SIX, Image 6

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THE DAILY CAPIAT. ir.-nvv. t.p- nurnow SATTODAT, APBIL 25, 1911
warmer days pongee and tussor, as
well aa some of the lovely novelty
fabrics, with thin ribbed stripes and
plaids, make the beat materials for
such coats, and, like everything else
this season, these coats are built to Dt
the shoulders snugly, but bavo the in
evitable loose ripplo towards tho knee.
Their sleeves, however, may bo of
every variety, as Indeed may thctr col
lar One sees the roglau, set ia and
kimono sleeve, 'with, however, a sHB1tt
preference for the last, lis it fiUi ou
more easily. These coats aro usually
In three quarter length, and atnoog
th a newer models one sees no occa-
the jt-ylo of jacket or skirt, 1
flt'ed with large patched poc)
oa at Jaunty angles, and w.,.
sportswoman uses for very j
purposes, such as fishing U,
golf balls. .
The EngMsfc wrwsn stlU w,i
cot ties with t-o Jilting suit,,
American woiwa iVces more l
tlio open throat and turn backi
collar flnlshwl with a flowj".
EC.irf. Tho oullng huts, tlilf
aro usually of soft felt or su
suede rather than straw and
flexible in quality that tuey
bent Into the shnpo most leci
I . ':''''Fashiondbld 1
I it 1 and Spring' J
Jr Sporting Toflsf "v '
Mme Simcox is .America's Greatest Designer' P
Creator of 'Fashion
tOPTRlOHT . 1914 . w . CLARA C . SIVICOX flFTH AVEHUC 3 KEW1 Oftr?
endless variety of
charming fashion
confront one this
Spring. No Iron
bound rules can
describe or apply
them. In fact tho
only dictates, snd
It admits of a
iwtrto Interpretation, is Unit the now
rOjtumcH be becouilug. If possible
greater attention than ever Is given to
tl'o designing of graceful curves and
llaes, an art which, though slowly roc
Yiilzed, Is positively of the first Im
portance In the world of dress. Dress
inuklng In tno Inst decade has been
reckoned wltn on high art This sea
son instead of trying for n strictly Ori
ental effect, the latest fashion degrees
ell for a reproduction of the exquisite
pictures by Wattean, the charmliiK
modes of La Fowpudour, the pictur
esque charm of Lady Ilniullton or a
ltomucy. If you wish to compliment
n woman properly ou her appuaranco
this season you need only tell ber that
ho "looks Ilka a picture.'' - (
- Casually ono might Jump to the con
clusion that the quaint loose effects are
a boon to the woman who has no fig
ure. On tiie contrary, tho flguro
counts for a great deal, as In all of the
dmped models a perfect fitting founda
tion is the first requirement, and after
that the drnplngs, apparently most
- carelessly arranged, are managed with
the extreme precision that the artist
knows so well Is the price of unstudied
It is to bo noted that a most impor
tant feature of tho new models Is tho
treatment given to the backs, They
show even more artistic arrangement
than the fronts, and this nrrnngemcut
goes very far towards making or mar
ring not only the continue, but the
figure. Particularly with tho loose ef
fect It Is not nn easy mutter to give a
trim back, and there certainly Is noth
ing attractive about a baggy back that
gives tho appearance of round shoul
ders. Tho back, while It may be In
direct contrast to the scbsnie used In
tho front, nevertheless shows Its rela
tionship and is generally an extension
of the III es used In front
In Paris the newest tunic is long.
It reaches almost to the shoe tops and
flares at tho bottom. And ns the new
skirts end not far from tho shoe tops
tho tunics reach almost to tho hem of
tho skirt Many long coats are also
seen. These are worn with skirts of
the sa mo color or a stripe silk. Sev
eral suits mado after the model I am
showing this week were seen at the
Auteuil races. This costumo (Fig. 1)
was at onco dubbed the "Jupe de Pare
do del," In other words, "tho rainbow
skirt" for the thick silk that Is used
for the skirt veritably contains every
color of tho rainbow and a few others
to boot The Itouian-strlpes have nev
er been used so daringly as In this par
ticular stylo of suit, for tho stripes aro
In the most vivid colors. ' The long
coat which bas nn unusual flare at tho
bottom, Is In" black charmetise, lined
with white. The lurge patched pock
ets and rovers are In white silk, em
broidered with a conventional design.
As a samplo of what artistic treat
ment Is given to tho back of a gown
I cannot IIIiiNtnatc n better model than
Fig. 2. The back of this skirt with its
double apron nrrangement Is quite
unique. Tho gown is mado In cream
silk patteued with tiny bunches of
flowers In pink anil blue, and a llttlo
spruy of foliage. Plain cream silk Is
used for tho ftounco on the front of tho
skirt and tho tunic shaped draping at
the back. Tho belt and collar are In
Nattier bluo silk. The long sleeve Is
effectively used In this gown. It fits
closely to the nnn, and is finished with
n frill of the plnln silk over the baud.
Both short and long sleeves are used
for afternoon frocks.' Bomo of the
long sleeves aro transparent and are
gathered In about the wrists with a
band of ribbon or silk. The white chif
fon sleeves are very effective with
black taffeta frocks. Very few short
sleeves are seen on Worth's creations
this season. One black taffeta model
he has , designed has long chiffon
sleeves, trimmed with ostrich and ruch
liigs of taffeta. On the elaborate aft
ernoon frocks when the sleeves are
short an undersleeve of chiffon is most
graceful and effective. Fig. 3 has this
style of sleeve. It is quite loose and
will prove tho most comfortable and the
prettiest stylo for summer frocks. This
llttlo gown is made In white and black
taffeta, the white fabric pattened with
a large polka dot A brilliant touch of
color in introduced ia the revers and
planning her sporting apparel. IK
much greater latitude is shown both
in the color and cut of one's sporting
wardrobe than formerly when the infl
qua non of a garment demanded that
It should show by some external hall
mark for what particular pastime It
was designed. Not long ago the worn-
an who did not sport a scarlet coat on
the golf green or a nautlcally cut blue
serge when off for a yachting cruise
felt herself to be decidedly out of It
But now tho pendulum has swung
quite as far In the other direction and
f "T" "IK ' ' ' ' ' ' V.
S54M I MJ if.-- f'
. r A'f V'(M 1 ri rfffli I ' f '.:
pU rf Mlfe.'
' 1 1 I I ' IIIM' ' I .11
unmistakable cachet and con bo worn
on any occasion in conjunction with a
trig tailored snit It is in black glace
straw and Is decorated in front with a
large amber buckle, through which Is
run a black clr5 ribbon. Tho ribbon is
drawn across the sides of tho hat and
terminates In a large, Hut bow, which
fills the hiatus under the back brim.
A bandeau raises the hat to a smart
angle, and a slight bend in tho shape
gives the bat at the back a poke effect
The high bandeau huts, with the trim
ming on the outer and under brim, sa
charming for other purposes, nre by,
the nature of their lines Impracticable
for outing wear. A hut, however,
which nearly approaches perfection
for motoring purposes Is shaped llko
those worn by the habitat of the) Aug
trinn Tyrol. It is constructed of a
shade of green taffeta so dark as to '
appear black In certain lights and cull
ed "mysterious green." The tiny brlra
curls back abruptly from the car tips,
and standing out horlzontnlly-froin tlia
centrally indented brim aro two
rosettes, one on either side of oilcloth
ribbon, or eelanese ribbon, as some
modistes name it. In truth, this wa
terproof ribbon looks as sleek .and
shiny as the creature after which it Is
named. Both the deep and the high
crowned tailor turbans are In voguo
for outing purposes. Some of the new .
turbans are, almost ns high as a man's
opera hat and similar In shape, but
their sides are more concave. Tho
trimming Is usually put on in the front
at a forward tilting angle.
Some of the high crowns nre encir
cled with a collar of straw. One fetch
ing model Is developed in mahogany.
waist-band which is in purple Polrot
silk with a design of flowers In vivid
Cubist coloring.
A very quaint pinafore bodice tops
a flsh-wlfo drapery in Fig. 4. For a
slender flgure this delightful little
frock. In the original It was made In
white cotton crejie. The only trim
ming is on the pinafore, which is em
broidered in bright red and blue and
. which is tied round the waist with a
dark blue sash, which spreads out in n
large double looped bow at the back.
The chemisette Is of the finest white
batiste exquisitely smocked round the
neck, and at edg of the elbow sleeves.
Toot For th Outdoor Woman.
The month of April is the month
When too summer gtrl is most busy.
we seem to paraphrase tho old saying
to wish to be "alt things in all
clothes" and huve our apparel as little
indicative ot what we are about ns
possible, even to the point of scorning
a motor bonnet that spelled motor.
For that "very reason I have this sen
son both designed and Imported qu te
a number of chic little chapeailx,
which are close fitting-enough to tike
care of the hair in motoring and other
pastimes, when the coiffure is at the
mercy ot the wind, and yet which do
not bear the stamp of "officialdom,"
as it were. One of my models of this
sort was Illustrated in a recent article,
and another smart little chapeau is de
picted in Fig. & This little bat
though severely plain in effect, has
Milan Btraw, with tho collar of a
rougher straw, called "peanut," In a
bright canary shade. The sole orna
ment beside the "collar" Is a spread
ing fan of knife pleated black moire,
which flaunts itself directly above the
tightly curled narrow brim from the
middle of the bat in front
Th Top Coat. " -The
essential requirement of the top
coat for motoring is that it shall be
commodious enough to slip on over the
frilled and milled costumes of the day
without crushing the gown beneath.
Thus only may one emerge In diapha
nous array, as a gossamer butterfly
from the protecting chrysills of the
enveloping cloak. Suede cloth, golfln
tweed, terry whipcord, and for tho
slonal bell Bhape, like the one Miss
Eleanor Wilson has just bought for
her trousseau and which was selected
by her fiance, Secretary McAdoo.
The best all-round outing ulster I've
seen, ideal for cither steamer wear or
motor, Is of this same bell shape, flar
ing to a width of four yards at the
hem, which comes about six Inches
above the ankle, and the garment rip
ples down from tho narrow shoulders,
with their set-in sleeves, in n comforta
bly engaging fashion. The material is
n c'tecked worsted in two shades of
tortoise brown. The Gladstone collar
is of tangerine cotton velours, as are
the very deep enffs and the geometric
tabs which button the coat over to the
left side front
In this new devotion to plaids It is a
quaint fancy, if one can lay any claim
to Scotch blood, to follow the example
of our pretty prima donna, Christie
MacDonnld, and adopt for one's outing
costume the plnld of one's clan. Miss
Mac-Donald, who is a great outdoors
woman, has had a tramping suit made
for her of the MacDonnld pluld. The
skirt is laid in the regulation kilts, but
held In to below tho knees, and a snap
py little Scotch "bonnet" with a quill
is worn at a rakish angle on her head.
From England comes our best sug
gestions for sporting raiment, for the
English women nre notoriously devot
ed to athletics of every description, so
that the English influence on outdoor
clothing is not one to be disrejinrded,
for it is imbued with much of the na
tional sound common sense. The Eng
lish woman's sport clothes nre modeled
on the lines of the clothing used by
her men folks, but modified to suit the
exigencies of her sex. The British
Isles, moreover, manufacture the best
cloth in tho world, and the friezes,
coverts, cravenettes and Donegnls hnve
a wearing quality which defies the
flight of Time.
The skirts -of the English outdoor
suits are very short and of a fullness
around the hem which, would make the
present day French or even American
coutouriere sniff with disdain. But
they are built for the great outdoors,
for the tramping, golfing, and tennis
which is so great a part of country
life at this season of the year. The
Norfolk Jacket and a long loose Rus
sian model Tie with each other in
popularity of cut but no matter what
the face at will. Some bnvo ;
of henther or the bright feathi.
paroquet stuck through the bn)
others show a soft silk pompoft
ling In the brim. j
The Newest In Lingeria
There are modes and fasbj
lingerie, as in the outer dress, j
they nre Just as subject to capn
sudden change r.s other p;irts!
dress Is no longer news for ttf
A noted Hngcre Is showing the '
est little French bodices the i
corset They are made of flgin
turlst's batiste, ns soft and s
the finest pocket handkerchief,
one I have In mind has bun
black and yellow fruit small j
In this instance, on n'palej
ground. It Is mado perfectly
without a scrap of laeo or rib
trim it the neck and shoulder
which are of the same f..l-lcj
f-lmply finiehed with n plcot
Then the envelope combination!
straight at the top just i:!:o.(
vclope, they have llkcwire a Dap
of course, is longer nt t'ao bnckj
brought under and factci.ed
front with a button, thus f j:: -,
little drawers. These the :x sj
making in all the delicate sfcadi
a four Inch band of white moij
confining the bust; ethers nre 1
ed chiffon, but some of the r
pensive of these dainty garc.t
of clu.Ton peche, tho texture
that It can be drawn tl.rouVi
ding ring. Tho nlghtgov. n.i i :e
cut on the simple ll;.e: of n 'n
figurine. One of crepa rills l.;i:i
of purple and pcxcotU hlv.n o:i j.
an lnit ground. Amtjior i i in
colored chiffon peche with a del
klnAJ AbU.U I- a,. .... J
uiuuru uivuiua JU Ull l.KU v. (
coloring. Dainty strip.-d f'h:ij
pets of three pieces n-lit dreii
mise ana drawers are ia pirt
wmte, blue and white and mau
white, the only trimming being
white silk pleated frill. Some
new nljrht robes are made of
white silk trimmed wl;h Dresdi
bon. These gowns have full
sleeves and lapel., a now featuj
has become a popular ore In Tail