Daily capital journal. (Salem, Or.) 1903-1919, November 25, 1903, Section Three, Page TWENTY TWO, Image 22

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dMWJ' I II 1
irfr t
'V fcj'
Its Splendor, Majesty and Beauty Sympathetically Described
Tbe Greatest of Native's Mauvels A Descent
Into Its Awful Depths.
tho oxqulslto colors of tho rainbow
were reflected In its depths the beau
ty of tbo tropical sklos, tho chancing
effects of tho glow of tho Aurora Bo
realls wero caught and imprisoned in
the ebb and flow of this petrified
storm-beaten mystical somblarico of
waters, whone profound stillness filled
mo with terror mingled with rapture,
that only those who apprcclato and
Jovo Naturo can understand.
I know I was hypnotized by the
canyon's vastnost, by tho magic of
tho palo blue mists half veiling tho
temples, cathedrals, walls and bas
tions that show along ondloss shelves,
whoro tho armies of tho whole world
might find lodgmont. I was holploss
and ovorpoworod by its beauty, Its
mystory, as it stretched away In or
ratlc windings for mllos and miles bo.
yond tho uttermost powor of vision
Tho lnoffablo beauty of this prodlgl.
ous furrow plowed by tho Colorado rlv-
or moved and stirred my wholo being:
it mndo my oyos sting with unblddon
tears, and evoked nn Involuntary sob
that startled mo Into a realisation of
the omotlons that chained mo, a wll
ling captive, to the witchery of its
mnglc spell a spell that haunted me
In all tho atymptod descriptions of
thgi Grand '' Qanypn. no one, I fancy
Jiowovor glftod, has ever written, no
matter 'how vividly or enthusiastical
ly,', oven a portion of what was In his
sould. I know I felt there, as I hao
clfowlero, tho futility of an attompted
faithful, description. .
Ithavp seen tho best of all of tho
-most wonderful scenory of our own
country, and havo also scon tho wou
. dors of tho Old World. I havo stood
vtpon tho top of Cheops, Egypt's
grandest pyramid; havo looked down
from tho dizzy holghts of tho Jung
frnu and Mt. Blanc, In Swltzorland,
and havo troddon tho snow fields far
nbovo1 tho plcturosquo fiords thnt nestle-
among Norway's mountains. I
havo wnndored among tho ruins of
Thebos nnd Baalbcc and vlowed from
tho summit of tho Acropolis at Ath
ena, Parnassus' snowy bights, Hymet
tus and Marathon in tho distanco. I
havo also stood upon tho vergo of
GInalor point In Yosemlte and Inspi
ration point In the Yellowstone can
yonf have mused upon Calvary, Q8th
semnne and the Mount of Olives. Yet
nothing I have ever seen Impressed
mo In the way this canyon did; It if. through all tho hours that camo with
the night, after tho dreadful ascent
from those fearful abysses, from the
sopulcher wrought and fashioned by
tho agony of ngos.
At last I roachod tho brink1, worn
and woary physically and mentally;
thankful that I had oscapod from tho
perils of tho trail unhurt; and more
than thankful for my day in tho can
yon, which holds within its nbyss n
wolrd, tnnglod, bowildorlng vortox of
supernal and undreamed-of lmnossl-
bio sconos of a roal and unreal lower
world scenes that haunted mo
through nil tho hours that camo with
tho night, when fatlguo and sleep
stolo my woary sonsm All thnt night
my hopoa hovorod ovor that won
drous chasm, ovor thoso marvelous
torrncod steeps. At times I was onco
again down Into thoso vast sllonces;
then I stood on soma vnst pinnacle,
discovering fresh colors; gold nnd
glistening blues intermingled with
vivid reds, chromes and groons all
the colorings of the enrth and sky la
contered there, with the mystical tints
of the oconn In tho distance that had
so Impressed me during the day. and
wus with me In my dreams.
Tho canyon's benuty. Its awful
oUtuds, were still vivid In my mind
wtien I stolo out In the grny dnwn.
watching It turn to gold when the
sun sprang over the rim nnd stnbbod
the gloomy depths with shnfta of
light, melting away the vapors, light
ing up the deep red sandstone and
tinted, marbles that Hashed and sain
iiimieu in tne bright rays. That
morning's beauty and the glamor of
It. the majesty of the sceno spread
out before me a pannromn of color,
light and shad, mingled with oolo
tlal boauty, will never be forgotten.
Other points were visited during my
stny at Bright Angol hotol. Often I
would wandor away to a point and
seat myself on tho rim fin tho ery
edge of the world It seemed where
I oould muse In peace, away from the
tongues that vex tho soul, and look
out aero the canyon I hnd so long
ed to see. Far as tho eye could reach.
It stretched In sinuous curves away
and away Into the blue line of forests
on the opposite brink showed -linilji
nbovo the strains of pale yellow stone
ft tumbled world, sloping down, down
from the fur-off ancient banks of a
river now nearly a mile beneath me
There were strange, grotewjue. fan
cJful upheavals and phantasmal formi
I watched the play of light and shade;
aw the sunetrlke deep into the torn
and ragged scans that were cut In the
face of the cUflta. brightening the, pink
unit red of the limestone into deeper
hades and showing the waterway
mat might have been fashioned by
ligsng streaks of lightning, as In coii
fueed wanderings they wind around
iMUHui'iv anu untie warn into a
labyrinth of chasms and impenetrable
shadowy dentbjB, to where the. rivwr
He a river that 1 knew Is foaming
down there below all this tangled
web of limestone, sandstone, gneisc
and quarts, that lies lu ladiserlsHln
offects In. shifting
J! '
bo unllko anything else I had ovor ho
hold. How then would It be possible
to givo mora thnn nn Idea of this, the
most wondorful In Its way of anything
the world possesses?
Hero may bo soen or fancied nil
tho boautloH, grand or appalling things
of tho wholo world; nil of tho best In
sculpture, painting or lu architect
ure "cannot compnro with what God,
tho groat Creator? Architect and
Bulldor, put bora In this wonderful
chnsm. Here color relgnB supreme,
and holds swny as It doeR In Yellow--stone
Park, only In this ennyon the
distances arc so groat that color,
howovor Intense, Is spftonod or lost In
tho purplo ImmonHlty of air.
In tho onrly morning I stood In
front of tho hotol nt tho rim of the
chasm that dropped benoath my feot
dovn nnd down for 3400 foot, nnd
from! the fnsclnntlng yet terrifying
depth I looked far across to the (mys
tic chrume-tlnted brink, thirteen miles
-opposite, from where I stood. Shafts
of light paBtollod the sky and below
thoso paths of light were masses of
rappr. .soft and beautiful. Fnrther
down tho shadows, deepening Into
dntk nud dreadful depths, gave me
some shivering, uncertain moments,
but I hnd mndo nrrnngomenta the
night before to go down Into thoso
fearful dopths Hnd I waited. I do
not'know, but nra pretty certain, the
xesult would havo been the same.
I hurried through my bronkfast and
soon found myself mistress of a di
vided skirt and nnchored on the back
of a mule, following n guide down lute
tho annyon. Tho trail was wocse than
any I had ovor experienced; the trail
up to the Mer de Glace, In Switzer
land, nnd the trail In Yosemlte were
not so dnugorous, for hero the trnll
was Icy-and covered with snow a pnrt
of tho wnV down. A single false step
or slip, and I knew too well what the
ronBequenoos would he. It took the
whojo day to mnke tho trip. The trail
wound by tortuous nud devious ways
nnd turns for five miles Into the peril
ous doptlm.
Tortured by aches atd pain, fears
and misgivings, and thon lu moment
of rapture forgetting all save the sub
lime, tne solemn ami grand scenes
that mot my eyes at every turn raised
mo to such bight of enthusiasm that
life seemed of but small concern.
Thoro was such a bewildering confu
slon of strange, uulquo nud appalling
wonders In those depths, where the
spirit of ooetulc tragedy hold sway
nud an atmosphere of awe, and one
of woe also sends a thrill of pain
through one's being. It wag a day
that will be remembered while ration
holds Bway, and I shall be thankful
all my life that I had the courage to
ninko thj trip down Into th chaam.
I stood on a shelf hanging over tfei
Colorado river, nnd looked into the
abysses half veiled In a thin tilue
haze, that extended on and on, dep
uliig away until lost In the, distant.
Then I glanced up to those vast wall
whora were tornoea and pinnacles,
wav& upon wave of solldllled color,
jvaqhlng out Into boundless spaoo; a
mighty ocean caught in ita turbulent
" iih, yw o suaiirae. tnai u among, mats Drafts that sob and
often closed my eye, unable to ea (moans and then changes into yra-
furand stayed by invisible force. All dure the wonderful mirage that ehjow- phonies awot and solemn. ding sway
ed kaloldoscopls
scones and colors.
From every point of vantago visited
I found It was tha'samb, a series of
surprises, a wondor, an apocalypse
of grandeur and glory, beforo which
my brain reeled in tho mero effort of
contemplating the Inexhaustible
forms of Nature's architectural carv
ings, that fill this crinkled, curled old
chasm, winding In zigzag slnuosltlos;
a length of seventy-flvo miles before
mo and molting away beyond tho pow
cr of vision.
It Is impossible to measure JIs-
tnncos or give an adequate Idea, or
to guess tho slzo of certain objects
pointed out. A tiny bit of tho flash
ing river 4000 feet below mo, seem-
ingly only a few hundred feet In
longth, wns In reality six mllos long.
I had, howovor, no wish for details. I
proferred to feast my oyos upon tho
phantasmal forms of rock, nnd medi
tate for It is a place for thought, and
sllonce. Tho canyon, so iloonly Torn
and scarred by the conflict of cycles
stretching back beyond ono's Imagin
ing, was old, porhaps, when Noah sat
and whittled and plannod tho Ark, or
Adnm learned the art of subtcrfugo
Tho sun shown on those mesas oncan
tadas. ovon beforo the pueblos of tho
cllff-dwollers, like determined remln
Isconces of tho past, clung In inacces
sible places, from which tho dwollers
crept llko ants from tholr aerial re
treats or before tho ancostral ape
stood erect.
Tho placo was full of brooding
momorlcs, and tho sllcnco awful In
Its Intensity, in tho vast sunken world
beneath mo. I hnvo stood upon tho
hot, trembling crator of Vesuvius, and
havo breathed tho air of tho wind-
swopt deserts of tho Nile; havo Been
tho River Jordan and tho Dead Sea;
havo hoard tho thunder of falling Jce
oorgs from the Mulr glncior, nnd
watchod tho Iceborgs there and nt
Taku Inlet drift away In tho wasto of
wators, spectral as dreams, and I
havo seon tho confusion of spouting
geysors and wraiths of vapor from tho
chaotic under-world In tho Yellow
stone Pnrk, that sends the boiling,
foaming Jot skyward with clockllko
regularity but all that I had ooon
seemed to be but a sort of propara
tlon for mo, thnt I might more fully
onjoy this, tho greatest of nlll of
God's grandest labyrinth of wonders.
Someone has wrltton nbout our peo
ple "doddorlng abroad" to see tho
scenory Incomparably Inferior to our
own. Granted that tills Is so, In Its
way, yet I think thoso who havo rav
elod who have seen, are those best
fitted to comprehend. So I felt as I
saw something of the thousand miles
of harmonious colorings and carvings
In this doep cleft that stretchod away
to tho horlion's uttermost rim, and
noaror me saw mountains floating in
the blue voids, showing peak, turret
and cono, with no -vlslblo anchorage
In vivid coloring of marvelous Irll
liancy, which softonod In the distance
Into a soothing hnrmony of colors
through atmospheric Influonce and re
It Is a world unlike nny I have
known, a world of changing, evanes
cant lights, nnd of colors that run riot
from the depths, up nnd up to the ut
termoet verge. It la. so vnst. so zlo
rlous In Its distances, wherein re
such wonderful mirage effects, ono Im
aglnee great cities and armies pa,s
lug nnd repassing. Seemingly ships
were sailing un smooth waters, with
their shadows plainly seen in the olur.
depths. A charming, marvelous pag
eant lay over against the opposite'
bank from me. and lower down were I
vast stretches of plain In deathlike j
silence and Isolation. Then there,
were other Urlght groupings showing '
a very miracle of ollmatlc glory, that i
gave me an unparalleled scen and
filled me with oestaele like the souud '
of some exquisite melody, soul filling '
and satisfying. It wa a requiem and
a hallelujah; a desolate, ruined vorld
here, and a radlnnt. growing world of
beauty there: each In turn speaking
to my heart as no words could do
"sermons in stone" indeed, with,
strange, soft, weird music stealing up
from those strangely disquieting
depths. It ) the voice of the winds
Into silent benedictions, until one's
heart is filled with the pain of the
music and thp solemnity of silence.
Tho boauty and grnpdour of this
silent yet shifting, animated glory,
swathed In, soft ethereal vapors, Is
ovjrpoworlng In its Impreaslvenoss,
and is homago-lmpolllng; stornly roal,
yet spectral as a dream. It is tho soul
of all tho architects, of all tho paint
ers and sculptors over known, for In its
depths nro all that can delight the
eyo or stir tho Imagination or emo
tions. It is a gcologocal apocalypse
that touches and holds ono In thrall;
half mystory, half revelation, where
language falls ana description is com
monplace With mo it will be a
matchless spectacle, whoso pictures
will always bo a part of my bolng,
whoso awful grandeur, whllo Inoxpros
slblo leaves Its impressions on the
soul Its ccholcss silence, symbolical
of tho eternal silence coming to us
all; Its world of shadowy formfe,
stretching llko turbulont waves In
mnssos of color rioting against the
rim of tho world nn enduring and
deathless momory filled with divine
pathos flllled mo with nameless 1 mg-
lngs that were undoflnable, as I sat
In tho prosenco of this canyon. There
Naturo had done her utmost, with her
unerring brush, blondlng tho Bensu
ous, brilliant, ravishing, harmonious
revelation beneath mo into a grand
Joyful overture, an allogro through
.which runs a vaguo uncertain minor
chord of sadness and pain.
Such wore my Impressions; what
tho canyon is to others I know not;
there nro peoplo doubtless too piosa
Is, too hopelessly sane, to understand
to fool, to know, but for mo it will nl
ways bo a luxuriant lotus-droam of
mntchloss beauty, and lovely as tho
hope of llfo everlasting.
Onco more on the mnln line at Wll
Hams, wo had scarcely started vost
ward boforo troublos camo in quick
succession. Wrecks nnd delays wero
our portion on the Santa Fe. One
needed to possess nnd know tho mean
ing of holy faith, to hopo to oscapo
unscathod, but tho Journoy wostward
was comfortttblo withal, and Fate sont
n stray rolatlvo who kindly relloved
mo of tho cares of travel.
So wo loft tho gray billowy desort
and Intormlnnblo cncll and gaunt
Yucca trees, standing In wolrd dls,
tortod shapes, and went on and on
ovor tho grny sea of tar-brush, grcaao
wood and smaller varieties of shrubs,
At Necdloa wo loft tho Colorado river.
Mrs. William Bcckmnn In Snrrn.
monto Boo.
Phene: Main 2853,
M v-'
193 Commercial St.
Orer The Journal.
The man wno can dotho most and beat i
nuickest and cheoneat. in tho mn J
. it ' " " Ml
to do your work.
All I ask is a ohanco to provp what I
It is more to your Interest that you h I
fVitti rtrw"if f linn i la ir mlnn '"
Elliott, the Job Printer.
constant companion of tho Into Daniel
B. Salghman, rodo on his master's
coffln. Ho could not bo Induced to
leave It, ovon to bo fed or watered,
and It was with difficulty ho could bo
mado to eat, ovon whou food was tak
en him. Ho lay for tho most part in
the same place, nbovo tho shipping tag
nailed to tho plno box, and wore It
down until It was almost Illegible.
"Peddlor" accompanied Mr. Salgh
man on his Journoy throughout the
United States and Canada, and It Is
feared tho dog will dlo when his mas
ter is burled. Mr. Salghman, who
formerly owned tho slto of tho now
Journal building, and wns Identified
with locn) real cstato interests, later
went to Joplln nnd promoted many
mining enterprises. Ho died in Sa
vannah Tuesday. Kansas City Journal.
Also It Is tho open season for w
lng Jack rabbits, which may Inters
vumua iiuumi 10 umi industry ti
means of oxistenco in a cold cIIbhu
Word comes that tho Yalo footy
iuuiu io irnuijr vuppiua. HOmehOTTlVi
buumub luminal, lUinK wo hetrl
Diuiimi jeumiK. uuu re, u may tj,,!
uein u uivuui.
"Ben VIckroy, who brought Mexican
Polo horo a fow months ago, has a now
mnn coming East in a fow days," says
an Eastern exchange. If tho now find
is the same calibre as tho notoriously
yellow greasor, tho best disposition
Benjamin could make of him would be
to coax his protogo ovor to tho'Enst
river and hold his head undor water
for a poriod of 35 or 40 minutes.
Dowlo Is followed at tho Mife,!
Squaro garden by a flrst-clasj J
show, which is being bettor patmujl
xnan iuujau mo aecona s army.
Trade Muki
Anrono tending n ikctch and 1a1rtin
qnlcklr uecruin oar opinion free wboihir 2
Inrenllon probably patentable. Commmi
tlom atrlctlr confldentlaL Handbook on I'nT-J
entireo. OHoit teener tor ocurtnr ttUL
I'atonU taken through Jlunn A Coirngr
rprcusi nviKr, w iwuu. iumv. in lot
Scientific Americn,
neir uinmraiea weeklr. T-utwt
t atir aclcntlBo journal. TenriEi
moritlu.ll. Sold brail nmdMi
UOoa. C2& T SU Wuhuicioa,Dil
n tt. i ra u i SAVINGS BANK
Capital INaMOnai Department oHers cipecUlln-
'aT'a; ja TCT'lif ducements to thogo who Hleh to
Jt3v3t.JUvi iHri i eavo inonov. Eapeslally who
Only National Bank in Marion n " on'y 'n ma11 noniti,
county. TransactM a general nIeo J thoi0 who httV0 m,7
banking busmen. litaa which Is not esrnJBR h-
terost. Deposits of oae dollar or
OFFICERS more received nt nny time- Pm
J.H.Albert President book issued to each depositor.
EM Crolsan Vice-Pres Interest 'credited on Januarjl
Jos II. Albert Cashier and July l.
niaisiiei)f ti8f) itiisiimneiiiifrfuif
ta6i8iM-iiii8iiaiiiif f iwnintme
A Dog's Fidelity.
Throughout tho long Journey from
Savannah, Ga., to Kansas City, "Pod-
dlor," tho pot dog for tho past year and
Ocera House Block. Court Stcet
Experienced cutter and fitter. Will euarantte all work. Also deta
in?, prcsslne and repairing
piittit(pmMjcataiiatf eeitMt44HmT
P A w
Road to S
iTmrmxSMsassxiesiiFiamaiKr gmsMtsrs s
Than giving your customers tho best valuo obtainable. This wo aro doing In a more liberal manner thi
ovor before. Having now a largo fire and burglar proof safe onables us to carry a much larger stock this
ovor. Therefore wo havo four times as many goods. We still continue our policy of carrying different
priced goods to meet tho demands of all sizes of purses.
Cut Glass Solid Silve Silve Plated Wae
ittatMbsammEmmtB mmuKTtrnmsmmrjmaassiau catMiaagjMiMtawwgMMBi m,mn w iw i i wrr"
These ate complete and wo shall add to them from day to day until Christmas. A feature of partlcoW
value to be noted is our Diamond and Watch Stock. Thos goods wero solected nnd bargained for h
February and therefore wo secured prices which will defy all competition and sales already made indi
cate thoy havo found tho low-priced plac to buy these goods. Never beforo In our experience have we IH
away Xraag goods for customers as early as this year, and Indications are -a record breaker for 1903 Yow
Inspection Is solicited. Affable and accommodating clerks to show you goods whether you buy or w
Our knives, forks, spoons and purse will continue to be sold at a discount of 2Q per gent. Our opUl
department is patronliod more than ever You will find our experienced eyesight specialist in att-ndan
and when glasses are npedeJ price will be reasonable. Try our whan oth.rs fajl
JL AmE jjL Je v3
88JState Street.
Jewele and Optician
Next Door to Ladd & Bush's Baflk