w-fct-t tf ifftYJ
MOHAIR IND
A CireEnruL Outlook
ron Tnr.
Goat IUisnns.
EIUST FACTORY ON THE COAST
Ub ..Himvr at Salem
Eaiua Date.
AT AN
Oregon people arc greatly interested
Fn the raolialr product, for a variety
at reasons. Wc can and do raise sonic
?of the finest Ancora coats In the
'Werld: in fact, a Salem man lins the
reputation of making the best ship-
jnicnt of mohair ever sent from tins
const. Oregon has the best auoptcu
Sland in tho world for raising the
goats, and she has that peculiar en-
mate wjtli a soft, moist atmosphere
Bo needful in the combing and spir.
filing of tho mohair.
In view of the fo.pt that saiem is
about to establish tho first moiiiui
factory on tho Pacific coast, tho fol
lowing facts arc published from tlu
American consul at Bradford, in
land:
In the last few months immense
Ffortuncs have been made in Bradford,
-England, in tho mohair business. Tin
price of tho raw material lias lncrcascc
Ffrom 24 cents to 04 cents per pound, 01
more than 105 per cent; of yarn (two
,fold 32s light gray Turkey mohair
ffrom 48 cents to 81.03 per pound, nt
lcr,casc of nearly 115 per cent, and ol
fttlio finished product suitable for lln-
'ings, dress goods, summer coatings
ietc., from 17, 21, 231 and 27 cents pel
yard a year ago to about 70 per cent
above these prices. One firm of man
ufacturers is alleged to have clcarco
.r,000,000 In less than five months.
Half a dozen other firms, including
spinners and raw-material dealers, an
' reputed to have done almost ns wch
while merchants and all others wh.
have been In a position to buy or scl
tho hnlr. the varn or the fabric haw
made great profits. The cause of till,
great furore In molmlr has been tlu
chango In fashion and the return o
mohair and lustre fabrics to popular
ity last spring. Anyone who had i
large quantity In stock had a fortum
in his hands, as had any who, foresee
ing tho continued demand, had sut
ttclcnt faith to keep on buying cvei.
at tho advanced prices asked. It li
predicted that mohairs will conttnik
in stylo for. another season or two
and many aro shaping their courso ac
cordingly. Bradford, in tho mcai
time, is enjoying a commercial pro&
perlty sucli as It has not known sine.
1870-3. Not only has tho trado In mo
hair products Increased, but also li
woolen and worsted goods and dres.
stuffs. Tho beginning of tho yea.
found tho merchants of tho worlt
with practically empty shelves. Then,
had been a great wavo of depression
Pcoplo wero either unable to buy, o
In the face of tho hard times every
where manifest they had ccdnomlzci
and stopped buying. Now thcro Is u
demand for Bradford products no.
only In tho English homo trade, bm
In tho United States, In South Amer;
ica, Mexico, and all tho countries o.
Europe, Asia and Africa. In tho fac.
of tills demand, which cannot bo full)
supplied, prices have advanced nil
along tho line, but more particularly
In mohair. To Amos Crabtrcc, Esq.
n director of tho Bradford Charabci
of Commerce, and a most Intelligent
and enterprising dealer In mohair, 1
am Indebted for much of tho ap
pended information.
History of Mohair Manufacturc.
Tho business In mohair wat
commenced about fifty years ago, the
raw material being imported into
London and Liverpool exclusive!)
from Asia Minor by several Greek
firms. When tho spinners wantcu
mohair thoy had to go to London oi
Liverpool to buy it, But tlilrt)
years ago ono of tho Bradford mohali
merchants began to Import it dlreci
from Constantinople, and these dlreci
Importations have since developed bo
extensively that now the bulk of the
mohair grown In Asia Minor ana
South Africa Is brought to Bradford
In that way. Tho spinners have no
occasion to co out of town to buy, nt
they can supply their wants from the
largo stocks regularly held here.
For somo years after the commence
ment of the business, by roason of the
bright, slippery naturo of mohair, the
spinners could not comb It by Itself,
they had to mix long English luster
wool with it. But that difficulty has
long since been overcome, and now
almost anybody can comb it.
Supply countries. There aro two
sources of supply, viz. Asia Minor and
South Africa. Asia Minor is the
natural home of tho angora goat, The
country Is very mountainous nnd
covered with trees and shrubs, on
which the animals chiefly feed. This
kind of country appears to bo much
more suitable for the goats than a fiat,
grass country. A large portion of
South Africa being of a similar nature
to Asia Minor, it occurred to a few
enterprising farmers of tho Capo
Colony, about thirty years ago, that
it would, be a iteelfabje UUng to get
immimm,i
edme angora goats from Turkey and
try to grow mohair. At that time
tho Turkish government was willing
to allow tho animals to bo cent out of
tho country, and ship-loads of puro
bred angoras wero brought away from
time to time, until tho government
became alarmed and prohibited their
exportation. The business- proved so
successful that now the Cape mohair
exceeds that of Turkey. For a tlmo
it was doubted if tho Capo farmers
would bo able to keep up tho breed
and continue to send hair of the right
class, but there Is no doubt now that
thev can. and in proof of this there
has Just been received from South
Africa a large number, of prize llceces,
clipped tills year, which aro every
thing that can be desired.
The Jump in Prices. Not .for lltccn
years has there been such a rapid rise
as the one that lins Just taken place.
In January of this year tho price of
best Turkey llcccc was 20 cents per
pound. It remained nt that figure
during February and March. In
April It was 31 cents per pound; In
May 38 Cents was paid; then In June
it jumped, In ono week, to 18 cents;
now It Is 04 cents per pound and still
on tho rise Notwithstanding the
demand was real and not speculative,
and turns out to have Justified the
rise, many of the spinners and mer
chants refused for a time to follow
ihe upward movement, not having
confidence that It had come to stay,
in 1808 nnd 1803 there were similar
noves, not, however, so grct, but
Jioso rises were quickly followed
jy great and sudden drops, and It was
Jils very recent experience that
caused most people to be cautious.
There is ono point more that Is
.vorthy of attentlon,vlz., the Improvc
jicnts which have taken place In
nachlnery during tho past few years,
riicso have enabled spinners to deal
.vitli the short mohair in a way that
)uld not have been possible fifteen
.r twenty years ago. Large quantity
f short mohair arc now successful!)
.lanlpulatcd In Bradford and district
-lint formerly had to be sold to tlu
Voolcn pcoplo. Added to these lm
jrovcnients, thcro is the other nd
nntuge of tho greater suitability oi
Jic English climate over that of othei
:ountrics for the combing and spin
ling of mohair, and It Is therefore
issertcd that it is a very difficult mat
ter Indeed for others to compete with
Bradford.
Tho Goat at Home. Though It h
jndcrstood that tho Turkish govern
nent prohibits the exportation of the
tngora goat, I am told that the pro
llbltlon is not strictly enforced, una
.hat It would not be difficult for tlu
southern farmers to Import goats foi
ceding purposes, thus beginning
'ltli a fresh and pure blood.
Thcro aro a great many varieties ol
noliatr grown in Turkey, such at
jcybazar, angora, gercdcli and cast
tinboul, but one feature is very prom-
ncnt it !s nearly all a good length.
i?hc Turks nllow the hair to remaii.
m tho animals the full twelve
nontlis; they clip only onco a year,
nd the result Is they produce a
jcauttful, bright ficecc, tho staplo ol
vhlch is eight inches In length.
In South Africa. Some good lonp
'iair comes from Capo Colony, but tho
ulk of the summer firsts is only ol
iicdlum length only 5 or o inches
Aus reason of this lack of length being
.hat tho growers in South Africa,
jcllovlng thoy get a greater weight,
jlip twice a year. Tho first clip 1e
thorn in April, nnd is of about beven
n eight pound growth. This is the
ongcr hair, and is called tho summci
Irsts. Toward the end of August
Jiey clip tho animals a second time
ind this Is tho short winter hair
ibouttwo or tlirco inches long. There
,s no doubt that if tlio South Africa
rowers would allow tho hair to re
naln on tho animals a longer time
obey would produce ns good mohair as
vliat which comes from Turkey. Tho
Bradford chamber of commerce has
aken this matter up and urged the
."uno farmers to crow a full season's
lip. Strangely enough, transactions
f tho United States havo been cited
to them as tho reason why they should
produce a long staple. It lias been
pointed out to them that United
States buyers havo purchased largely
from Constantinople, but have not
purchased a pound from Capo Colony
for tho reason that tho Turk shears
but onco a year, giving a fine, full
t.nnle. while tho African farmer
shears two or three times to get a
greater weight, but to the detriment
of his product.
The most remarkable featuro of the
mohair trado Is tho enormous Increase
In the production In South Africa.
From nothing at all 30 years ago, It
has, from its commencement at that
time, increased year by year, until
now tho exports from tho Capo aro
21,000 bales of 450 pounds each per
annum. Thcro is still a considerable
space of the country suitable for the
cultivation of angora, where the
farmers have no goats, and tho recent
enormous rise In the price i causing
these farmers to turn meir uueiuiuu
to tho business, and It is reported
there will ba a further increase during
the next two or three years.
Although the Turks are a much
slower people tfcap the people ol South
Africa, they havo increased their
production also very largely. From
1803 to 1873, about 25,000 baloa wero
exported from Constantinople yearly.
From 1873 to 1883, about 33,000 bales
was the average, while from 1883 to
1803. it was about 40.000 bales. Since
1893, the exports have averaged 42,'
000 bales yearly. The bales from
Turkey weight 170 pounds each.
Uses of Mohair. Mohair has nl-
ways been considered a flcklo article.
AVhcn it Is In demand, It suddenly
rises from 10 to 30 per cent.; when, on
the other hand, trade Is quiet, It Is
dllHcult to sell at almost any price.
Up to the end of 1875 the price of mo
hair ruled between 73 cents and 07
cents per pound. This was the time
when the fashion for ladles' dress
goods ran on bright fabrics, of which
"glaccs" made from mohair were an
important class. Soon afterthattlinc,
fashion chanced to soft goods made
from merino wools, and although dur
ing the past twenty years several at
tempts have been made to Introduce
mohair goods, they have never been
in fashion until tho present time.
This period from 1875 to 1895 has been
a most trying one for mohair spinners
and manufacturers, and the price
lias been considerably lowcrthan was
ever known.
Besides being used largely for dress
goods in tho old days, and nlso now
again, the principal use. of mohair Is
for the two-fold yarns for braids and
for plush; for which purposes It is
peculiarly suitable. There is no fibre
that wears so well as mohair In the
form of cither braid or plush. Fine
mohair braids were formerly largely
used for the edges of men's coats and
vests, but since the sewing machine
lias come so generally into use, thus
enabling neater edges to bo made,
thc?o fine braids do no, seem to be re
quired, and that portion of the trade
lias been the most depressed for a
lumber of years. When tho price
.vas so low, tho article was used for a
lumber of purposes for which it is
now too dear. There Is some used In
ho woolen trado for mantle cloths.
A largo proportion of tho mohair
nms spun In tho Bradford district,
especially two-folds, goes to Germany
mil Franco; but very little raw mate
rial Is manipulated abroad, and the
explanation appears to be that tho
jlimato of England Is moro suitable
than that of any other for the comb
ine and spinning of mohair.
HOW THE NICARAGUA CANAL
SHOULD BE BUILT.
A wrltor in Scrlbner's says, thnt ns
,o tho Nicaragua canal, It would
jortalnly bo gratifying to national
iridc to havo Americans succeed
.vlicro tho French havo made such a
llsastrous failure. Without discuss
ing tho questions of commercial or
nllitnry necessity tlirco things aro
.vorth censidering:
First: That If tho United States
jullds this canal, they should own tho
..crrltory through which It passes, by
purchase outright from Nicaragua.
Perhaps here Is n use for somo of tho
jllvcr that is hoarded in our trensury.
Secend: That thero should bo no
underestimating tho cost. All tho
various contingent Items, w foolishly
3vcrlookc(l in tho instances quoted,
should, be liberally provided for.
Lastly: Tho United States should
make it a free canal, with no tolls
except sufficient for maintenance, nnd
open to all nations both In peace nnd
war. This should holier gift to tho
.vorld.
Looked at In this generous way, wc
need not consider tho question of the
number of vessels that would pass
through It, or tho tolls they could
pay. Wo do say that tho amount of
commerce thnt passes the Suez canal,
and would pass tho Nicaragua canal,
Is Insignificant In proportion to the
domestic commerce of tho lakes.
Tho amount of freight passing
through the Detroit rlvor Inst year is
aiore than double that which would
pass both Isthmian canals, and It Is
Increasing much faster than that
would do.
The wealth of tho Orient appeals
to tho imagination; but the more
prosaic products of our own land tho
grain, tho lumber, the ores, tho coal,
and tho myriads of manufactured
articles which fioat down tho great
lakes, and through the rich valleys of
central New York, far exceed in im
portance and in value.
Another man is going to work the
tovn with a series on "prophecies."
"What Salem wants Is not more
"needs" but more deeds.
State or Ohio, City of Toledo, l
Lucas County f
ss.
Frank J. Cheney makes oath that he Ir the
senior partner of the firm ofF. J. Cheney &
Co, doing business in the City of Toledo,
County and State aforesaid, and that said firm
will pay the sum of ONE HUNDRED DOL
LARS for each and every case f Catarrh that
cannot be cured by the use of HalPt Catarrh
Cure.
FRANR J. ClIFSEY
nnd subscribed in my
Sworn to before me
pressnee, this 6th day
of December, A. D
A.W. Cleaso.v,
Notary I'ubllc
1 Brio.
j SEAL J
Hill'c Catarrh Cure is taken internally and
act directly on the blood and muoun surfaces
or the s stem. iena lor testimonials, irec.
F. J. Cheney & Co.,Tolcdo, ()
Q"Sold by Druggists, 75c.
WMkmfM fS
THE BEST
PIPE
TOBACCO.
Opera House.
Wednesday, Jan. 1.
f
m
BY THE
COIVI PANY
OF N- Y-
Fourth entertainment of the V, M, C. A.
course,
Mroc. Julia Aramentl. soprno.
Mlsi Cclia Schiller, phinist.
Mr. ChM. F. Iliugins, Violinist.
ADMISSION So CENTS.,
i
ID!
a
Prices no object. Many attractive
nnd uselul Holiday Goods still in
stock. Silk Handkerchiefs, silk
mufflers, silk mittens, linen handker
chiefs plain and embroideried, um
brellas, hosiery, underwear, Kx.
Kemembcr, prices no object,
PALACE !
307 COMMERCIAL STREET.
COMBINATION OIL CURE CO., foi
cancer and all malignant diseases. Wc cure
cancer, old ulcers, piles, tumors, Cstul
sciatic rhcumatism,catarrh and minor disease.
We have a combination oil which is working
wonder. Address, II. HfcCKMAN,
Box 169. Traveling Agent, Eugene, Or.
FOUND On the Silverton Salem stage
route, a ladies' purse, containing a sum of
money Owner can have same by proving
property. Inquire of Silverton stage driver,
12 313'
VETERINARY
Condition powders, liniments, heal
Ing lotions and ointments, blisteiing oint
ments, purgative pills and colic medicines al
ways on hand as cheap as elsewhere
CONSULTATION FREE.
W. C. MITCHELL.
Graduate of Ont. Vet. College, Toronto,
Canda. .....
Office and Dcspensary at Red Front Livery
Stable, Salem, Oregcn.
FOUND. On Trade street a key. Owner
call at Journal office. 12-26.31
A FARM To rent on easy
terms, enquire
nnr hlock west of North Salem school
R, U.
Crayton. i2.29.3t tf
LOST. A heavy ivory headed hickory can
bearing the inscription of the owners name
A. 1. Taylor Oakland, Cal Finder
please leave at Journal office. l2-2b"-3t
Ieirve
BioocH
Tonic
Builder
bn4fbt
(Cucrtotlv
pacifrtJM
. VILLttftS'
lot.
MfcDICINE CO.,
jerto.
Schenectady, ;(.Y.
ifcrfWo.
MtUrPClcTlUcQtt,
GRAND
1
Mill
mm
ST B
Tl
MrtBte
ji?.jtr$h.-
VSVKKa VVlSatV
jMBw
VSfeR27 Br
DR. CONTRIS,
GOLD FILLINGS A. SPECIALTY. -
All Kinds of Plate, Crown and
All work conscientiously performed and guaranteed first-class
and fully abreast of the tfmes, No "cheap" work done, but
all work done upon honor and with the latest appliances,
"Cheap" Dentistry is dear at any price,
Dental Work is what I guarantee, Fees
attention and care given to children's teeth and all
ations and consultations free,
COR STATE and
The Salem
Woolen Mills Store,
The Clothing Busb
ness in Salem during
the past year, has, in
a general way, had its
rough sailing, But the
Woolen Mills Store
has stood like Gibral
ter and sold the most
and best goods, Its
home-made and alk
wool goods, coupled
with square dealing,
has done that busb
ness, and the intention
of the managers is to
put in a large stock the
coming season at
prices that will corres
pond with small in'
comes, and at the
same time thestand
ard of these popular
goods will be full
kept up, and its many
friends and patrons
can rely in the future
on getting reliable
goods, the same as in
the past,
NOTICE.
There will be a meeting of the stockholders
of the Thomas Kay Woolen Mill Company
hld in their offlce in Salem, Or., Friday
fanuarv 1 1806. at the hour of? o'clock p. m.
for the purpose of considering the quest-on of
iucreaslng the Capital Mock ol Ihe Company
to S100.ooo-.by order of ihe president,
' RHCOSHOW
la.aS-td. SecRETAity.
DENTIST
PARLORS OVER GRAY BROS.
LIBERTY STREETS,
- A FEW -
D01jLS-
which we will close out,
ONBTHIRD OFF.
Also several dressing cases at same reduce
tion, We want to close them
entirely out,
TI If
ir
ANOTHER PISH AltltlM OF SHOES.
GREAT MONEY SAVERS-WHY?
Because we sell cheaper tha,n any
other house and because the Shoea
aee the best
In the store,
cost.
UNION BARGAIN STORE.
re
-EXCELSIOR, - STABLE-
J. C, HANSEN, MASAOJSre-
Only Cood horses used. Satisfaction 8uarantced. tftabia''of SiUts lfW Mock
zz&cxi u."!S
Bridge Work.
First-class, Scientific
reasonable, Special
examine
SALEM
II
BIGHT.
make, No shoddy stutf
All holiday goods left at
i a-xiwiim ""
v
- r -,ii r'lSiifflHlWIWsltW 0y
" ""! " ,