THE GATE CITY JOURNAL VARIETY THE SPICE OF HATS; MATERIALS FOR SCHOOL DRESSES G*AIIEWELL and good-by but not 4 “auf wlederselin" to the all-hots- ook-alike period I Passed into history * th at era of unim aginative hats— aats the monotony and sam eness ot shlch tried wom an’s pntlence. not to mention good looks, alm ost to the joint of despair. Changes now th e scene. T he pendu tom swings from the uneventful to the eventful In the millinery realm. The versatility, the originality, the tuned- (o-lndlvlduallty and to-costume and to- 'w eaaloD of the n e w hats b e s p e a k the development- of—suppose we call It a m illinery complex, since “complex” Is a favorite word with this generation. Not only Is the m odern m odiste In­ spired to style the hat to Individuality, but another element en ters In—th at of relating the hnt to the costume. And •till a nother—th at of tuning the hut to the occasion. So there you have It. a whole w ardrobe of hats necessary to cater to the dem ands of fashion. T his m illinery complex Involves a num ber of things, outstanding among which a re color, contour and the ma­ terial of which the hot Is made. As to color. In view of the fact that all fashion revolves around the ensem ­ ble thenie. It becomes necessary that the hat m atch something, either the dress, the suit ensemble, or the coat. Regarding contour, brims "fearfully and w onderfully” m anipulated com pete with novelty draped turlm ns, and yet the half has not yet been told as to the varying silhouettes which add re st to the m odern chapeau. Concerning m aterials, soft pliant broadcloth Is one of the newest ntedl nms and the elever use of fur trim mlng considers the subject from an o ther angle. T hen there a re lustrous Imported solells. gleaming metal cloths, laces, glistening satins, colorful o r blnck sheer velvets, and Inst hut not least the ubiquitous felt. R a ts pictured above portray charac­ teristic trends of the mode ns follow s: T h e velvet turban with a side bow : woolens Is going strong. T he daintiest, quulniest ehull's ever a re on the list, also very sheer and very lovely all wool georgettes. A m ultiplicity of featherw eight tweeds, to o l And then there a re all so rts of wool crepes, also exquisitely Mm Jersey cloth Is widely In use. Lightw eight broadcloths, too. If you please ond perfectly charm ing novelty wool weaves by the score, some with Interw oven or printed bor deri. C ontrasting pipings and banding» come to the fore as most Im portan' In d iv id u a lity in H a ts. trim m ing details. T he effectiveness of contrastin'! m aterials In this way Is set forth by the school frock In lower picture. T his one-piece model Is fasti loned ot rituna cloth, a lightweight wool m aterial In a reddish rust tone the pipings and bandings being In bright red. 3 untan beige kid shoes a re worn with this costum e for, ac­ cording to fashion’s p'ans, shoes must blend into the color scheme. A notable featu re in the styling of th is comely frock ts Its low-placed c ircular flare, achieving as It does the fashionable widened hemline.^ This adoption of the flare is very general throughout Junior styling, thus em phuslzing the fact that modes for youth tak e th eir cue from adult style trends. One is rem inded of the tendency of youth's fashions to follow In the wake of those of th eir elders. In th at quite a few frocks for growing girls are now cut along princess lines. Either the Mtted princess top Is widened at the hemline with an attach ed flare, plaited, circular or shirred, or a s Is frequently the case, the dress Is cut a la princess, Its flare accented with ¿ m a r t S c h o o l D re ss. to th e right at the top one of the felts, th e decidedly new lines of which ac­ cent elongated sides and h ack ; to the left below, a beige felt shape with a sm artly styled up-turned brim, and finally s felt helmet crowned with n c ircu lar velvet effect Woolens for School Dress. W hat's what In m aterials for the wesson's schoolgirl frocks? Well, for • os thing tbs vogue for lightweight perhaim, godets the hemline Mnlsheo very likely, w ith deep sculbqis. Very practical and ultra modish is the princess dress m ade of wool crept In either navy, bottle green wine ot brown Usually a handsom e lingerie collar and cuff set adds the finishing touch Kid shoes In an exact colot m atch achieve the ’ last word In chl< JULIA MOTT".Ml KY ICL I S I S W e s t e r s S f w i p s i s i H a lo s .» OQooooo(x>DOOO UcX 1SJ29 W w ttrn Nuwspapki ITnlon.) T o o m u c h Id le n e ss. I h a v e o b ­ s e rv e d , Mile u p a w o m a n 's tim e m u c h m o re c o m p le te ly a n d le a v e s h e r le ss h e r o w n m is tr e s s th a n a n y o th e r s o r t o f e m p lo y m e n t w h a t­ e v e r .— B u rk e . H E L PFU L SUGGESTIONS A fter m iddle age when the average person, man or woman, begins to no­ tice the thickening of the w aistline, it Is nec­ essary, If one keeps fit, active and ready for the enjoym ent of all of the good things th a t n atu re provides us, to cut down on sta rch y foods, eat less of m eat and more of the natu ral f r u i t Juices, which a re Invaluable In neu­ tralising the acid asb of heavy foods. Acidosis, rheum atism of various forms, get ns if we don't w atch out. When h eartburn (an acid stom ach) rolls up to choke you. tak e a good glass of fresh orange Juice and see how quickly the discom fort will sub­ side. Drink orange Juice dally as much and a s often as the stom ach dem ands It. W ith a system well nourished dally with citru s fru it Juice, w hether lemon, lime, grap efru it or orange, the dreaded a rth ritis Is routed and the body Is kept In perfect condition— provided the food supply Is reasonable. Young people who w ork off so much steam In exercise may eat m ore freely of hearty foods, but Inactivity and overeating Is the cause of a large pro­ portion of disease and death. N ow adays the wise m other begins with the c itru s fruits. She gives her three-month-old babe a teaspoonful of strain ed orange Juice betw een feed­ ings. T he vitam ines and m ineral m at­ te r found In orange Juice builds up the tissues and bones aDd gives the body resistance to colds . nd Infection. T he sm all glass of orange juice Is part of every well-appointed table for the first meal of the day. As a nation we a re being dieted to death. W ithout a physician's advice It Is not dangerous but often fa ta l to uttem pt any strenuous method of diet­ ing. One may be perfectly safe to cut down on some of the starches, eat less of hearty foods, but th e norm al way to diet is to e at w hat you enjoy and can digest and assim ilate well, and tak e plenty of out-door w alking and exercise. The over-fat person can safely cut down on the food, feel bet­ te r foi It, and w ith plenty of citrus fru its Instead of heavy desserts, will get back to norm al w eight slowly, which Is the only sa fe way to diet. Fresh vegetables, especially the green-leaf vegetables, like lettuce, chard, spinach and brocolll, should be p art of th e menu of every dinner. Uncooked onions If eaten a t night are both wholesome and a good antiseptic. T he? also Insure solitude, which Is a nother necessity for a normal person occasionally. T he best diet then Is plenty of vege­ tables, c itru s fru its and enough starchy nnd protein foods to keep In norm al weight Cold W eather Dishes. Now th a t the season ts here foi h e artie r foods, m ore roasts, pastry and richer puddings, wt need to rem em ber thal we m ust Include In this diet plenty of fresh fru its and vegetables, It we a re to have a well balanced diet and kee[ well. Pot Roast W ith Vege tablss.— Place u two 01 three-pound pot roast It a small iron kettle 01 D utch oven w ith som e suet. Brown well on all sides, then season and add a tablespoonful of boiling w ater. Cov­ e r tightly and cook over a simmer burner for two or th ree hours. An hour before serving add potatoes and onions, placing them around the meat Cover and steam until the vegetables a re tender. T his m akes an easy meal to prepare on a busy day, as one has all the nient nnd v e g e ta b le cooked In one receptacle. Deep Dleh F ruit Pie.— Peel and sllc* enough apples to serve the family, add sugar, orange Juice, the grated peel ol a lemon, and If the apples lack tart- ness sdd some of the lemon Juice Cover with a biscuit dough and baks until the crust Is brown. T here Is no punch or cocktail thal will give a g re ater re st to a meal or leave one with 'ess regret for the In­ dulgence, than tvesh fruit cocktail. D inner Punch.—T ake tw o-thirds ot lemon juice, one cupful of orange Juice, one cupful o f sugar siru p —made by cooking together sugar and water to m ake a heavy stn^o. Combine the fruit and sugar sirup and Just before serving ponr over two bottles of gin ger sle. adding plenty of crushed Ice Lemon M incem eat—T k*e one cupful of raisins, three eupfut* of finely chopi>ed apples, one-half cupful of chopped nuts, one-fourth cupful ot finely minced candled orange peel or (orange m arm alade may be euhstltut ed) one-half cupful of o ra tg e Juice, two cupfuls of sugar, one-Lalf tea spoonful of salt, two teaspno.ifuls ol cinnam on, one teaspoonful a jc h of cloves and ginger Scald, drain and chop the raisins. Mix all the o t,e r In gredlents. Add one-fourth cupful ol m elted butter. T h is m akes two p ies It was on the day th a t the child bad happily confided to ber th at daddy was coming home th at m orning th a t the fire bell rang out—sh arp staccato peals I Silence, and then a second alarm , followed by the sound of con- fust ou In the halls, the cries ol frig h t­ ened children. Sharp orders from teachers. M argaret Rogers assum ed (© by O. J. Welsh. 1 command of her room. “S tand I” and they obeyed to a child. T WAS the first day of school and the first grade wus unusually re st­ T he line sta rte d tow ard the door, the le ss M urgaret Rogers, teacher, children taking th eir places naturally rapped ber desk repeatedly for or­ and easily, but the confusion In the der. T here was a rustle of bodies, hall broke up the orderly arrangem ent scraping of feet, an undertone of whis­ and pandem onium reigned. T he fa­ pers, and from one corner of the room m iliar little fuces of the first-graders cam e the sound of so b s Some newly w ere soon lost in the mad sw irl of launched trav eler on the long road to moving bodies. A red head appeared education w as weeping unrestrainedly In the m idst of the crowd nnd w as lost again. Davie boyl Dave's baby for home and m other. “ Now we m ust be q u iet!” sternly . . . the one whose w elfare and rem arked Miss Rogers, and for a sec­ happiness m eant so much to Dave M argaret reached over ond the noise subsided only to be brok­ W eatherby. en by the shrill shriek of a sm all, the heads of the children. “Dnvie boy ! Davie boy I He turned pink-frocked girl In the second row who, half turned In her seat, was tow ard Iter. She held out her arm s and pulled hltn from the crowd. He pointing a chubby finger a t a red-head wound his legs about her body, his ed hoy behind ber. “He did It . . .“ sobbed the vic­ arm s tight about her shoulders. “Gee, Mltb R ogerth,” he lisped, tim , “ he did It . . . he snapped my neck with a wuhber band and It breathing rapidly, “when you said Davie boy,' you said It—Just like—iny hurr-L ” daddy.” Miss Rogers approached the tormen And so It was th a t l,ls Dave W eath tor. “Stand up I” ordered the teacher erby found them as he cam e up the steps, two at a time, white-faced, sternly. “S tan d —in the aisle.” T he boy looked up at ber and frightened. And as the word rang grinned, displaying a wide gap w here through the halls (hat the danger was over he burled his face In his son’s th ree front teeth w ere missing. “Do you mean me, Miss liogerth ?'' red head while the child clung to him “1 do I” and Miss Rogers' eyes came w ith one arm, the o th er close about M argaret's neck. Big Dave sm iled at to rest on a narrow rubber band about her—w ith little Dave’s eyes. his list. “1 know now. Peggy.” he whispered. “ No, m a'am , ' d ldn’th . . . thith “1 know you love me . . . you eluttilth band did though. I’m thorry.” picked him—out of all those helpless “ W hat Is your nam e?” babies . . . my boy . . .” “ My nam e Is David W eatherby “1 w anted to keep him safe to put Ju n io r.” him In your arm s, Dave d ear . . . •Wha-a-t?” dem anded M a rg are t hut I hope there—th ere Is room for He nodded affably, bis gray eyes me there, too.” frankly disconcerting. David W eatherby Ju n io r! T he son of the man she had met and learned Big Fortunes Traced to to love this sum m er, with a love thal Days of Privateering had m ade vacation a long period of T he American m illionaire Is a th riv ­ golden happiness: the son of the man ing Institution todny, however you may who had asked her to m nrry him and tak e him. T here a re estim ated to he th en —a fte r she had promised hud told 14,000 of his kind In the country. He her of this boy. T he Irony of having has greatly m ultiplied In the last two th is boy In her room. The eyes amll decades. Ing np at her with big Dave’s eyes Delving back beyond 1014 we find She turned slowly and walked back to him In fewer and fewer num bers until her desk and David Junior scraped we arriv e—a fte r tracking him back his shoes noisily on the floor as he over a surprisingly brlet spnn of sat down. years—at the lair of the first Amerl “ It hur-r-rt,” walled the sm all vic­ can m illionaires. American million tim, disappointedly. alres. In fact, a re of such compnra “ Now, everyone will fold his hands tlvely recent origin th at the present nnd we will sing. W hat song do you Incum bents of even our oldest for­ ! choose?” tunes full within the category of the “ ‘T hnnkth for the Buggy Ride,” oouvenu riche. cam e prom ptly from D avid’s desk and Many of the wenlthy fam ilies of to­ ' a snicker went over the room. day can trace the sta rt of their for­ M argaret was glad when the day tu n es to the daring nnd enterprise of was over and the last sm all person p riv ateers who operated during the [ had filed nut. She sat at her desk a W ar for Independence. ! long lim e thinking . . . of those T he ( ’ulHit. the Thorndike, the T racy splendid horseback rides over moun and Peabody fortunes were founded tain trails, Dave beside her. The on the deadly guns and keen steel of w hite moonlight nights when they had the Am erican privateers. sat with a targe group around a blaz­ George (’nhot and hlg brother went ing CRmp fire and lost them selves In Into the privateering business on a th e pine branches overhead. She large scule. They equipped 2(1 ships, smiled grimly when she recalled that eneh enrrylng Ifl to 20 gnus, nnd h a r­ Dave had been particularly fond ol vested Inrge retu rn s from their con- the song, “T hanks for the Buggy Hleis with B ritish ships. Ride.” T here had been brenkfnsts ai N athaniel Tracy, son of a wealthy sunrise and long days together, retu rn m erchant, took to the ndventurous life Ing to the Wyoming ranch ns the sun of a privateer with zest. At tw enty- w as losing Itself In the golden glory five he commanded a great Heel of behind the m ountain peaks. How hap war vessel*, und for ninny yenrs was py she had been when he hnd said he possessed ot enorm ous wealth. T hen was leaving the city nnd w as to live the B ritish frigates began to gatliei In the towD she called home . . In his ships one hy one until Tracy w here his sister lived: and then, he lost practically all of Ills fortune. had told her of his love for her, and Joseph Peabody, foundei of the Pea In a voice Infinitely tender he had la body fortune, trod the deck of one of te r spoken of his previous m nrrlnge and of his sm all son left m otherless at C al.ot's p rivateers until he gained enough prize money to equip a ship birth. of his own. More prize money laiured Why hnd he not told her all this at in and he acquired nnd equipped other the beginning? It was not fa lrl He ships. B) 17!'l lie wus so wenlthy had deceived ber I And he had a n ­ th at he gave up life at sea and e stab ­ sw ered : lished lilmself a s a great m erchant. “ It was because I loved you so He continued, however, to add new much. I'eggy . . . I w auled to he ships to his fleet until nt one tim e he su re you loved me enough to . . hnd 83 vessels flying his Itag. Oo his to . . . You would love Davie pay roll* were 7.000 sailors and his boy.” ships were bringing rich cargoes from When she hnd left the ranch to Asia, Europe and the West Indies. Ills come home, a day or so before Dave annual tuze* am ounted to $200,000. had planned to leave, he held her hand tightly In his nnd said he would wait M arvelous A rch David Ju n io r proved to tie a disrupt A rchitects have been known to mnke lug factor In the first-grade room. He continued to hnrnss the small girls the Journey to Colon in file Canal Zone who sat near him ; he dropped hi* for the sole purpose of exnmlnlng the hooks nnd whispered continuously, his ancient fiat arch which enlered Into w hisper unusually penetrating because Hie construction ot St. Dom inic's of his missing teeth lie continued to church, a Seventeenth century relic, now a ruin, exrept Hie m arvelous arch. grin at her and request fhnt th e morn T he latter Is a single span of about Ing song be “T hanks for the Buggy Ride,” although M argaret hnd nevet (to feel with only the term inal colum ns for supisirt and I d addition to this, asked him for his choice. He was at the arch has so little curve to It that w ays eager to talk of his father, who it seem s to he nlmost fiat. T radition he told her. was away on a long trip but would come bnck soon. She pun­ has ll th at It tell three tim es In the ished him oo several occasions hy course of conslruction, hul on the fourth occasion It Is said thal the making him aland In the com er, hul he alw ays smiled al her sw eetly— monk who designed ll stood under It In prayer as ll was Mulshed Its fall with hlg Dtive'a eyes. T here had been a long letter from al that tim e would have killed him The surrounding stru c tu re Is In ruins, Dave. He was hoping to retu rn soon hui the arch rem ains. Its existence hut business was good and his trip was threatened recently when a real had been longer than he anticipated His sister, who cared for David, wrote e state operator secured possession of the pnqierty hill to save If the muni th at the boy was getting along nicely In school and enjoyed It. Big Dave cipul council m ade sn appropriation to purchase the land from him. was anxious to gel hark to the little tike . . . Davie hoy's w elfare amt A n t* s i M ush room G ro w srs happiness was shout the biggest thing In Brazil selenlist* have observed In the world to him. Mar garet tore up the letter snd dropiietl m ultitudes of s n ls which rllm b trees, place thetnielves on the su rface of a It Into the w aste basket, only to res cue It a fte r school hours and piece ll leaf, nexi ru ttin g with flielr d a w s s nearby sem icircular Incision oo the back together again. T he next afternoon when David up|ier side, nnd Isle t detaching the Junior deliberately coaxed sn ugly piece |1> In k in g the edge between the Ja n s snd giving t sh arp |erk The soiled dog into the room sl.e made leaves are taken Into su b terran ean him come up snd sit beside oer all the cham bers, where they ferm ent and de afternoon sn d It snnoyed he extrem e cay forming a leaf mold. In which the ly because he grinned st her affably every lim e she looked In ols direction I a n ts grow mushrooms. AT THE SOUND OF THE GONG I JVeed le s s P a in f o People are often too patient with pain. Suffering when there is no need to suf­ fer. Shopping with a head that throbs. Working though they ache all over. And Bayer Aspirin would bring im­ mediate relief! The best time to take Bayer Aspirin b the moment you first feel the pain. Why postpone relief until the pain has reached its height? Why hesitate to take anything so harmless? Read the proven directions for check­ ing colds, easing a sore throat; relieving headaches and the pains of neuralgia, neuritis, rheumatism, eta. You can always count on its quick comfort. B u t if pain is of frequent recurrence see a doctor as to its cause. B A T E R A S P I R I N Aspirin la the trade mark of Bayer Manufacture of Monoaceti cad Jester of SalieylicadA f o r »4 I t m ay be the little stom ach; it may be the bowels are sluggish. N o m atter w hat coats a child's tongue, its a sa fe and sensible precaution to give a few drops o f C astoria. T h is gentle regulation o f the little system soon sets things to rights. A pure vegetable preparation that ca n 't harm a wee infant, but brings quick com fort — even when it ia colic, diarrhea, o r sim ilar disturbance. A nd don’t forsake C astoria as th e child grows older. I f yoO w ant to raise boys and girls with strong system s that will ward off constipation, stick to good old C a s t o r i a ; and give nothing stronger when there’s any irregu­ larity except on the advice o f a doctor. C astoria is sold in every drugstore, and the genuine always bears Chas. H . F le tch e r’s signs* ture on the wrapper. Wins Wife as First Prize! I F you don’t think your whole life can be changed by chance, read thia. I t is the story of a young man who was pretty well down and but, bu t he figured he might win a prize i f he took some advice. “ As far back aa I can remember I had been a weakling,” says Mr. Calvin L . Floyd of Orlando, Florida. “ A headache, it seemed, was to be m y life companion. I was always dizzy in the mornings. Nothing I a te seemed good for me. Then I attended a health lecture in a sana­ torium and the physician talked on ‘faulty elimination.' T h a t was cer­ tainly my trouble. One of the patients asked him about Nujol. He recom­ mended i t highly. 1 decided t o try one bottle to see if there was any­ thing in what he said about natural lubrication for the human body. “ Long before I had finished the first bottle my ‘companion-headache’ was gone. No more tired out feeling. I get a real lack out of life now. B y the way, I almost forgot to tell you I found a new life companion, too!” Perfectly simple, wasn’t It? Mr. Floyd Just learned the normal nat­ ural way to get rid of bodily poisons (we all have them ) and nature did the rest. W hy shouldn’t you be well? Nujol is not a medicine. I t con- tains no drugs. I t is effective, so you will be “regular aa clock-work.’’ You can buy it a t all good drug stores in sealed packages for leas than the price of a couple of good cigars. Many a life changed by a message like this one. Begin today. Millions have found th a t Nujol makes all the difference in th e world. Nujol will make you feel fine and you can prove it. D o e s y o u r m irro r reflect ro u gh ,p im p ly s k in ? T H E N EWE C’n t i c u r a .1 >■ it H a re a c le a r » H i n t A N O IN T the affected pert* with C uticura O intm ent. W ish off in a few minutes with C uticnra Soap snd hot w uer snd continue bathing. Pimples, rubes snd all o f skin troubles quickly yield to this treatment. O intm ent 2Sc.. 90c. S o ip lt e . T ilc it n 2 V . Sim ple exch free. A d J n u : " C 'u firu n ,“ D ep t. BT. M ild e a . M e ee e ch eie tti.