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MAflAZINK SUCTION'.
LAKEVIEW. OREGON, THURSDAY JULY 12, i.
TAGES 1 TO 4
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9
7!
1
1
BERNHARDT'S ART IN DRESS
VUBAT Sl'LESDOR OF WARDROISE
OF TUB WON I. It'S C RE A JEST
ACTRESS.
Much Study Clvcn to Make ch
Gown Adaptable to the t'mrt 'rc
acntcd.-ArtUt'a I ante and (cnluf
Vary tvldcnt.
What iloi'H Madame llernhnrdl wear?
During ll'T engagement III llllH I'Ollll-
try, tliU question about tlio famous
actress wits asked by every woman
unable to Judge y seeing for herself,
and tlx' reply In the mi ghtcii ex
clamation: "Her gowns lire simply gorgeous
they urn a art of her."
In thn ninny lu m pichcntcd. llern-
(limit llill II I .MI lltllly Of display lug
a great viirlfly of dresses, mnl t h n
sands of women who have packed the
lnrK theatre lit every performance
wliorccvcr mIii iipiM-iircd, have Mln red
nt llicin 111 wonder, ri-fognllng not
only tlii-lr perfect adaptation to tho
part presented, hut also how iiiiicIi of
lie rtilmrdr own liiNle mnl nctilm
there wiim In them.
1 1 Kit tiKM I'M loll "SUS.V
What U II? Thi girt displayed in
this pnrllciilur. In ax h:iraiirlft l- of
the woman ait any oilier of the count
less del a I In which o lo make her the
pllhlle Idol of all lands. Kvcli those
who did not understand the spoKcn
language of the play, were full well
able lo comprehend Hint of the Mill,
hal In and 1 11 re facing Ihem over the
flaming fool lights. This 11 r 1 1 nt h.iu
demonstrated to ( housa mis, that a gou n
may he superior In linen and construe
tlon to the flimsy modelH sent ner
each year from I'nrU for our slavish
following. Street riot hex, of course,
demand a certain amount of enliven
tlonallty, In order not to malm the
wearer coiiNplcuoiiH, hut since the
Ilernliiinlt engagement In their respec
tive faHhlon centerM, not it few devisers
of costumes have declared their Inten
tion of taking Indoor styles more ser
iously. IIKIt KXA.MI'KK IOI.I.uW r,i.
For those women whose incomes ad
mit of certain ami cxtravaKant expend
iture for clothes, It Ik Jut-t now consid
ered wonderfully 'smart" to furnish
their own dressmakers and tailors with
water-color sketches of moilelx, spi" I
ally drawn for them hy famoiix artlHix,
these Mketchex helliK lined solely for
their own particular gowns. With t ho
stage for n precedent, thie fashionable
dames have found It convenient to
adopt Itx method. Tor (hone who can
not Indulge In this fad, theatergoing
a V- vu. x?Z!yH 4 v
MADAMR HAWAII llKItNII AHI' T.
In Continue Worn In Her l'tiiuoim VhiiiIIIi" MiiII iimiiii Scene.
. .aumen an added plume of enjoyment
to womankind. -Sara Hernhardt's crea
tions are rurloiiHly interextlnt? from the
point of view that they xerve bh nn ad
vance courier of what may he accom
plished by women who effect the hour
Klasa figure as that demanded hy fash
ion purveyors. Her carrlape Is lofty,
her chest Is hleb. her waixt line ample,
and her head well poised qui'e the
reverse, you will olmerve from the
figure usually attributed to French
women. But how unfettered Is Tlern
hardt'a every action, and how splendid
her movements! In other words, she
has mastered so absolutely the art of
dressing well, that once clothed, she Is
utterly oblivions of her adornments,
A UNIQUE INNOVATION.
Novel indeed is the hip swathing of
all Mme. Dernhardt's gowns and all
her frocks are set up on classical lines.
The Ixidlres show waist lines either
below her natural bust or well down
on her abdomen, prefernbly the latter
style, as It gives her body that hygi
enic poise which every woman's better
tint urn known to h Ha proper setting
for prolonged activity.
To demonstrate how Minn. Dern
hardl manages to make this nuducl
ouh (levlullon from fashion dlclales
atlnullve, It Ix well lo Hay that sue
hud specially designed a culraxx over
which she him her maid wind yards ol
xoft rlhlMin which Ik finally Med In front
with nn ornamental how and long
streamer end. Thin style Is especially
adapted Ui her. nx It inaken her appear
taller, a point, well worthy of Imitation!
tin Ihlx particular kowii Die hip Hwntli
IliK etidx In pallletted Hlolu cii.Im, dllp
pltiK ,lth Kohl frliiK". Her tiny feet
ari) encaxed In marveloiixly lilting hllp
perx of cloth of i-'.oiil.
WO.MiKIM Th IlltKAKI'AST ttOHK.
The rohe worn In llio hrrakfaxt
xcuiih In Manda" in worthy of Btudy.
It In a Mllver enerilMleil lace creation
over Jiahlel Idue, net up with Wide
Mhoiildeix and a xwathltiK of pale hlue
1II1I1011, endliiK In hi rue roxctiex with
Ntole eudx III front, A uuli. hut char
acter lending touch Ix a miniature Kin
jdre Htoli! merely a patted line of
ptlcclcHH xahle, which ;lveH thn frock.
In It i Kinplrt) (IrapinK, the much tieed
ci lonu MtriilKht IIiich from neck to
hem. The hleevex, too, which are lace
puffx, with foiearnix of tranxparent
hue, kIiow pale hlue hraceletx at their
dlvlxlon, maile virilhle only hy the art
IkI'h Kesturex, a hiihile touch, hut very
phaHlliK.
I'liSTI'MI'S WtlKN IN "fAMIKKK."
KavlidiiiiK. Indii'd, are her "Carnllle"
driHHCM! The llrxl myxtery lx In nil
ver Htiewn Kall.e, wroilKht with It lat
tice work of pink rlhln emhroldery
mar the Hare at the foot, thlx outer
work of art helliK fashioned over let
luce preen xal In Miiiple. The hip
MwaltiliiK ami xtoli) rndx are In the
xame tone, and xhe wearx with extra
ordlnary rracu a froxty pelerine of pale
preen chiffon, decorated with fetching
1 liiflerx of Idiixh roxex.
Another of the "Camllle" frockx re
vealx tin- Krench drexHniakcr'H xiwer
of ilfi nil. The material Ix luxtroux
while xatlu, with ralxed emhrolilery In
varlcpated pink flowerx with preen
follape the corHapo rexplendent with
well xet perns.
Another chatipe to which xhe treats
her audience In "Camllle" Ix it porpe
oux half (lttiiip rohe of white lace
xcml llttlnp prlncexx Ix thlx model, the
lace flecked with reddlxh cold flpiirex.
xi-emlnply woven Into the texture. 1'nle
pink ix the foundation, ax Ix also the
hip llnlnp.
1 1 Kit "A N'fi Kl.t " CtlSTI'Mi:.
In "Anpelo," Mine, llernhardt'x
ilrexx, an Italian prlncexx coMtume, Ix
fashioned fifim porpeoux pohl liroeade.
It Ix set ill) on Hliort waixted, half lilted
bodice lines, with the long sweeping
folds of the skirt attached. The mater
ial Is so draped as to present an unbro
ken straight front, from the tucker
decorated corsage to the foot line.
Beautifully adjusted leg-of-mutton
sleeves of gold lirocado inert fitted fore
arm coverings of cloth of gold, the lat
ter extending In shaped circular flares,
well drawn down over the knuckles,
ending Just n touch of ucblng to
soften the effect.
A classic drapery of gobelin Mne
crepe, deftly touched with embroidery
of deeper tone, accentuates the beaufv
of the ensemble. This rloHk hangs In
long straight HneB over the gown, be
ing but loosely ennpht together at the
sides with tapestry blue cords and tas
sels. With this Is worn a dog collar of
pearls.
Other feminine accessories, nnlte out
of the ordinary, are the Jewel-studded
cloth of gold chatelaine bag, sm-nend" !
on a long, dangling gold chain, and
several plain linked gold chains worn
In festoons over the corsage.
JULY SECOND THE DAY
bOYENSMENT HISTORIAN SAYS
REAL ISDEl'EMlESCE IS AOT
TUB tOLRTU.
Colonics Made Declaration AgainM
Lngland l'rvlou to Llrawii.g His
torical I'apcr r loal Sign.ntf ol
Document on August Second.
According to the opinions of the
latest historical authorities both the
school children of by gone days ami
those of the present time have been
taught Incorrectly as to the projier In
dependence day of the nation. No one
dale see 111 x to devtdop such excltahh;
emotions ox does the mention of the
Fourth of July, but how unattractive
would It. xeern If we were to slate that
tho second of July Ix the day of fire
crackers, bombs and Kornan candles.
And yet. according to Mr. William 11.
Michael. Chief Clerk and Historian of
the Department of Ktate,, "The real In
dependence Day ix the second of July."
Since we bent over our childhood
histories we have always had an idea
that our fathers severed the ties with
t:reat Britain on the Fourth of July,
1 7TB, and we have had word of no less
an authority than Thomas Jefferson,
author of that hallowed Instrument,
that the Declaration was signed on
that dat. on whose anniversary the
great father of democracy died. But
Mr. Michael says no, and for years he
has tolled for bis country beneath the
same roof which shelters the sacred
document; has had tho nation's arch
ives at his Angers' ends.
I NDKI'KXDKXt'K ON JULY 2.
"The Independence of the United
States wax declared by resolution on
the 2d of July, and the adoption of the
form of Declaration on the 4th of July
wax a secondary matter," says Mr.
Michael. "It Ix a little strange that
more importance was not attached to
the 2d of July in connection with the
Declaration of Independence. The res
olution Introduced by Richard Henry
Iee, was passed on that day (July 2.
1770). Thlx was really the vital point
the crucial Juncture."
The real act of lndeendence, which
Mr. Michael has had reproduced In fac
simile, was then the Iec resolution
declaring:
"That these United colonies are. and
of right ought to lie. free and Inde
pendent states; that they are absolved
from all allegiance to the British
Crown, nnd that nil political connection
between them anil the State of Creat
Britain Is. and ought to lie, totally
dissolved."
SKi.XKD AUJUST 2.
Concerning the actual date of the
Declaration's signing, Mr. Michael
says: "Mr. Jefferson in his account
states that all the members present
except Mr. Dickinson, signed the Dec
laration In the evening of the Fourth
of July. The Journal shows that no
one signed It that evening except Mr.
Hancock and Mr. Thomson. Tho
Journal entry Is: 'Signed. John Han
cock, President. Attest. Charles Thorn
son. Secretary. On August
2. the Declaration, as engrossed under
the order of Congress, was sicned bv
all of the members of Congress
present."
What really did happen on July 4
of that year of years was the final
adoption of a draft of the "form of
announcing the fact to the world
that independence had been decreed
two davs before. Jefferson had writ
ten this draft In his Philadelphia
apartnMnts. consisting of a ready-fur
nlshcd parlor and bedroom in the new
brick house of Hynian Gratz. at the
soul h west corner of 7th and Market
streets, "on the outskirts of the city."
The Penn National Bank now occupy
ing the site of this dwelling. Is In the
very business heart of Philadelphia.
WKITTKN LATK IN JULY.
But the ' original Declaration," which
all pilgrims to Washington formerly
gazed upon in awe and reverence, was
not ordered written for more than two
weeks after that long but unjustly
hallowed July 4. On July 19. Con
gress ordered that the Declaration be
"fairly engrossed on parchment," and
that "the same, when engrossed, be
signed by every member of Congress."
Some time within the next two weeks
the beautiful pen work which thous
ands of Americans have since mar
veled at and admired was executed
uiion the great strip of sheepskin now
locked away In the Department of
State at Washington.
On August 2. 1770, just a month
after the real stroke of independence
this great sheepskin was unrolled in
the presence of the Continental Con
gress, in Independence Hall, with the
wording of the corrected draft it was
carefully "compared at the table."
This formality gone through with,
it whb spread out upon a desk and
signed by all of the members of Con
gress present. Fifty of these fathers
of the republic signed on that day.
Six of the revered "signers,, did not
affix their signatures until later dates
Oeorge Wythe of Virginia signed
about August 27. Richard TTenrv T.ee.
Virginia; Eldrldge Oerry. Massachu
setts, and Oliver Wolcott, Connecticut
did not sign until some time In Sep
tember Mntthy Thornton, of New
Hampshire, did not add his name until
November, and Thomas McKesn of
Delaware, probably did not affix his.
the Anal signature, until Ave years
later, or 1781. Matthew Thornton,
bv the wsv, was not appointed to Con
cress until September n1 did not
take his seat until November four
months after the adoption of the Dec
laration. Other signers who ere
not members of Congress on July 2
or 4, were allowed to sign on August
2, the general signing day. These
were Benjamin Rush, James Wilson,
George iCoss, George Clymer and
Georye Taylor,
JVLY FOURTH.
The Day of Days Among: Uncle Sam's
sailor bu)t,
Lnc.le Ram makes the Fourth of
July a greater day among his sailors
than even Christmas. Indeed. It Is
the greatest day for relaxation and
pleasure for Jackie In the whole year.
The early Secretaries of the navy
established the custom and It has been
almost, religiously maintained invio
late through the long line of officials
who have succeeded them.
Independence day belongs to the
Jackie. Jiix superiors recognize that
his life Is In some respects a bard
one. To Mm Is denied the ties of
family, the friendships and all the
other Interests and diversions of life
that make up the landsman's existence,
so for this reason Uncle Sam believes
that hlx sailors should have as many
holidays as possible.
To make Independence Day the big
gest day of all is to give the day a
special significance which cannot fall
In some desrrec at least to carry its
lesson of patriotic duty to thoo who
serve the republic on the seas.
Hence commodores and captains
always plan to remain In port on
July 4. Then, after dressing ship, fir
ing the national salute, and brief patri
otic services, the day is given to the
men to enjoy ax they see fit. discipline
being almost entirely relaxed. The
sports that attend the sailors on thelA., unrf a skin like a eirl. I can
Fourth of July are or a varied
IXDr.PKMiKXCK II ALL
acter.
Our
naval service has, of
,.rc' l.0,.n,a nftWtPd to ft consider -
iv.rr::.:.:: w vo.
able extent by the great outdoor move
ment that has converted Independence
Day Into the greatest sporting carni
val of the year.
The Navy Department has wisely
encouraged this tendency,, and where
ever an open field is available, the
piece de resistance is a baseball game,
sometimes between rival nines picked
from members of the same ship,
oftener between teams representing
different ships and in some extreme
cases between nines from separate
squadrons who happen to be in ren
dezvous near each other.
Then there are track and field
events. The fleet-footed wearers of
the blue show how fast they can
sprint. Now just what good this does
them In their developments as fighters
Is not clear, for even lnul they the
instinct to flee and get over ground
faster than a Duffy It would do them
no good at the moment when the prow
of the ship was heading for a moist
trip to Davy Jones' Ixicker. However,
they run and throw weights, Jump and
pole vault.
If no athletic field U available, then
the rivalry must be confined to aquatic
events, swimming a".d rowing races.
In extreme cases where it is not pos
sible to get ashore or the water con
ditions preclude rowing or swimming,
the .Tackles test their prowess at box
ing, wrestling, fencing, dancing and
singing.
Then the ship's larder is drawn on
for such extra delicacies as trans
forms the regtila- neal into a banquet,
and Mr. Jackie crawls into his ham
mock with the comfortable feeling
that July Fourth Is pretty big day
after all, and that he Is glad to be
able to pass It In Uncle Sam's service.
Ittnek Ualr the Strongest.
Black hair Is stronger than golden
tresses, and will sustain almost double
the weleht. Recently a scientist found,
by experiment, that it Is possible to
suspend a weight of four ounces hy a
single halr.-provlded the hair he black,
niond hair will give wav at weights
varying according to the tint. A yel
low hair will scarce support two ounces.
a brown will hold up three without
break In e while one of a verv dark
brown will sustain an additional half
ounce, ,
it cjm
tan
V,CopyriihTd 189 By HArprr -iTrTucTa . 'V '"
Bjnopnln of piwlln chptr
At early dawn the country Inn was
all alive. Thf archer was as merry ax
a grig, and having klss'd the matron
and chased the maid up the ladder
once mor. he went out to the brook
and came back with the water dripping
frcm hlx face and hair.
"ilola! my man of peace." he cried
to Alleyne, "whither are you bent this
mornlnp?"
"To Mlnstead. My brother Simon
Edrlcson Is socman ithere, and I go to
bide w Ith him for a while."
The archer and Hordle John placed a
hand upon either shoulder and led the
bov off to the board, where some
rmoklng fish, a dish of spinach, and a
Jup of milk were laid out for their
breakfast.
I should not be surprise to learn.
mon camarade." said the soldier, as he
heaped a slice of the fish upon
Alleyne'x tranchoir
or nreao. inai
Irt ri-nit written thlnes.
,,'iou pno.-j i ji n-nnni jo JrfU.loio,
u .r:q jriil JOJHs,, -p-u- wnuw
"It would be shame to the good
their clerk this ten years."
Th bowman locked at him with
Kr-at respect. "Think of that!" said
i n ....ii ,,-ith n r.t a hair to vour
char-juhoot three hundred ana mty pacts
AT PHILADELPHIA.
m my lime popper there, and four
' hundred and twenty with the great
w-ih.w; yet i
can make nothing of
this, nor read my own name.
"Why, It Is written in the French
tongue." said Allevne, "and in a right
clerkly hand. This is how it runs in
our speech: 'To the very powerful
and very honorable knight. Sir Nigel
Loring of Christchurch, from his very
faithful friend Sir Claude Latour,
captain of the White Company, chate
lain of Buscar, grand lord of Mont
chateau, and vassal to the renowned
Gaston, Count of Folx, who holds the
rights of the high Justice, the middle,
and the low."
"Look at that, now!" cried the bow
man in triumph. "That is Just what
he would have said. You come with
me, mon gros Jean, and as to you,
little one, where did you say that you
Journeyed?"'
"To Minstead."
"Ah, yes! I know this forest-country
well. We shall travel round with you
tc Minstead. lad, seeing that it is little
out of our way."
As they passed the old church,
which stood upon a mound at the left
hand sido of the village street, the door
was flung open, and a stream of wor
shippers wound down the sloping path,
coming from the morning mass.
Alleyne bent knee and doffed hat at
the sight of the open door; but ere he
had finished an Ave, his comrades were
out of sight round the curve of the
path, and he had to run to overtake
them.
"What!" he said, "not one word of
nraver before God's own onen house?
How can ye hope for his blessing upon
the day?'
"My friend." said Hordle Jhw. "I
have prayed so much during the .ast
two months, not only during the day,
but at matins, lauds, and the like,
when I could scarce keep my head
upon my shoulders for nodding, that I
feel that I have somewhat ovrprayed
myself."
"How can n man have too much re
ligion?" cried Alleyne earnestly. "It
Is the one thing that avalleth. A man
day, eating and drlnklnsr, breathing
and sleeping. It is only when be
raises himself, and co. ems himself
with the immortal spirit within him,
that he becomes In very truth a man
Bethink ye how gnd a tMng it "-ou'd
he that the blood of the Tledeemer
should be spilled to no purnose "
Bless the lad. If he doth not bhiuh
like anv Rlrl. and vet preach '"" tie
whole College of Cardinals!" cried the
archer
"Tn truth I blushed that aev one o
weak end so unworthy as T "ho'ild tev
to teach snother that which he flns
It so passing hard to follow himself."
I
It 2
1
11 E?rva V
t end of thl InMallmrM.
"Prettily said, mon garcon! Touch
ing that same slaying of the Redeemer,
It was a bad business. A good padre
In France read to us from a scroll the
whole truth of the matter. The
soldiers came upon Him In the Garden.
In truth. these Apontlesof Hliwiay have
been holy men, but they were of no
great account as men-at-armx. There
was one. Indeed. Fir Peter, who snv.te
out like a true man; but, unles he is
belled, he did but clip a varlet's car,
which was no very knlphtly .iced.
By these ten finger-bones! had I bet n
there, with Black Simon of Norwich,
and but one score of picked men of the
Company, we had held them in play.
Could we do no more, we had at least
filed the false knight. Sir Judas, s
full of KnRllsh arrows that he would
curse the day that ever he came on
such an errand."
The young clerk smiled at his
companion's earnestness. "Had He
wished help." he said, "He could have
niiiiiiiiuiiru i nrenan?ien irom
heaven, so what need had He of yo.r
poor Ihiw and arrow? Besldex, bethink
you of His own words that those who
live by the sword shall perish by the
sword."
"Now. youngster, let things be plat
nu joam wiw u. i
am a man
his mark.
Yeu saw the things I had with me at
yonder hostel; name which you will,
save the box or rose-colored sugar
which I take to the Lady Loring, and
you shall have them if you will but
come with me to France."
"Nay," said Alleyne, "I would gladly
ct.me with ye to France or where else
ye will. Just to list to your talk, and
I l cause ye are the only two friends
! that I have in the whole wide world
I outside of the cloisters; but indeed it
I may not be. for my duty is toward my
i brother, seeing that father and mother
ere dead, and he my elder. Besides,
when ye talk of taking me to France,
ye do not conceive how uselew I
should be to you, seeing that neither
by training nor by nature am I fitted
for the wars, and there seems to be
noueht but Btrife In those parts."
"Bethink you again, mon ami,"
quoth Aylward, "that you might do
much good yonder, since there are
three hundred men in the Company,
and none who has ever a word of
grace for them, and yet the Virgin
knows that there was never a set of
men who were in more need of it.
Sickerly the one duty may balance the
other. Your brother hath done with
out you this many a year, and, as I
gather, he hath never walked as far
as Beaulleu to see you during all that
time, so he cannot be in any great need
of you."
"Besides," said John, "the Socman ol
Minstead is a byword through the
forest, from BramBhaw Hill to Holmes
ley Walk. He is a drunken, brawling,
r rilous churl, as you may find to your
cost."
"The more reason that I should
strive to mend him," quoth Alleyne.
"There is no need to urge me, friends,
for my own wishes would draw me to
France, and it would be a Joy to me
could I go with you. But indeed and
indeed it cannot be. so here I take my
have of you, for yonder square tower
amongst the trees upon the right must
surely be the church of Minstead. and
I may reach it by this path through
the woods."
"Well, God be with thee, lad!" cried
the archer, pressing Alleyne to his
heart. "I am quick to love, and quick
to hate, and 'fore God I am loath to
part. Yet it may be as well that you
thould know whither we go. We shall
now Journey south through the woods
until we come out upon the Christ
churoh road, and so onward, hoping
to-night to reach the castle of Sir
William Montacute, Earl of Salisbury,
of which Sir Nigel Loring Is constable.
There we shall bide, and it is like
enough that for a month or more you
may find us there, ere we are ready
for our voyage back to France."
'It was hard indeed for Alleyne to
break away from these two new but
hearty friends, and so strong was the
ccmbat between his conscience and his
inclinations that he dared not look
round, lest his resolution should slip
away from him.
The path which the young clerk hau
now to follow lay through a magnifi
cent forest of the very heaviest timber,
where the giant boles of oak and of
beech formed long aisles in every di
rection, shooting up their huge
branches to build the majestic arches
of Nature's own cathedral. It was
very still there in the heart of the
woodlands. The gentle rustle of the
branches and the distant cooing of
pigeons were the only sounds which
broke in upon the silence, save that
once Alleyne heard afar off a merry
call upon a hunting bugle and the
shrill yapping of the hounds. He
pushed on the quicker, twirling his
staff merrily, and look'nsr out at every
i rn tne pain tor some sign or tne
l old Saxon residence. He was xudttenly
irrest' 1, however, by the appearance
of y w, Id-looking fellow armed with a
ch ' who sprang out from behind a
tree and barred his passage. He was
a rouKh, powerful peasant, with cap
and tunic of untanned sheepskin,
leather breeches. and galligaskins
round his legs and feet.
"Stand!" he shouted, rnltfng his
heavy cudgel to enforce the order.
"Who are you who welk so freely
yon o, snd what Is vour errar.d?"
"Whv should T answer vour ques
tions, mv friend" said Alleyne, stand
In? on his guard.
"Because vour tongue may save
yew pate. What hnst In the scrip?
"Vought of anv price."
"How can I tell that, clerk? lt me
se
"Wot T."
"ffonl! I could pn'1 vnu Vtnb from
llmh like a pullet. Wouldst lose sortp
and life tooT"
"I will part with neither without a
fif lit."
"A fight, quotha? A fight betwixt