dressed: knowing yourself and being true
to yourself in what you wear.
During the past three years, possibly
half the women in America have in vari
ous ways tried to look like Jacqueline
Kennedy. Some have been successful;
most have not The reason is simple: nei
ther physically nor in personality are they
the Jacqueline Kennedy type.
Mrs. Kennedy knows herself better than
any other woman for whom I have de
signed clothes. As a result of this knowl
edge, plus her superb taste, she has been
able to create and project an intellectual
image of classical womanhood. She does
not live for clothes; she makes clothes
live for her. They are a tool to round out
her personality.
Sophia Loren is far from Mrs. Ken
nedy in physical appearance and in social
background. But she, too, is an intelligent
woman, and her attitude toward clothes is
similar to that of the First Lady.
The sensuous actress has the kind of
figure that ancient Greek statues glorify.
But, unfortunately, modern high-fashion
clothes are designed with slim, boyish
mannequins in mind and they look ter
rible on Sophia (as they would on Venus
de Hilo, for that matter).
I sUDDose she could wear Grecian irowna
and be ravishing. But she is very much
a 20th-century woman; and to be true to
herself, she must reflect the modern idiom
in her dress.
This is a problem that Sophia shares
with a great many American women. As
soon as you leave haute couture's beach
head in New York, you find that the aver
age woman wears dresses at least one
size larger. To look well in modern clothes,
these women must know some secrets.
A basic precept is that such a woman
should eliminate unnecessary yardage in
material. Loose clothing makes a big girl
look bigger. Also, she should be careful
not to wear too straight lines, which con
trast with and therefore overemphasize
her rounded figure.
Every woman needs support in bust,
waist, and hips, but the full-bodied
need it more. Undergarments must be cho
sen judiciously. I am appalled that so
many American women use undergar
ments to suppress the body. They are not
meant for that; their function is to sup
port and enhance the figure. With too
much compression, a woman loses her in
dividuality and looks like a salami.
I wish more American women would
learn the secret of their European sis
ters; that is, that a natural, gently sup
ported bust and derrtere are not vulgar
but chic (And they might also learn
something about the importance of sleep.
The early-afternoon siesta is what gives
European women 10 more years of being
attractive than American women have.)
Being true to yourself means that you
can even wear glasses if you need them
and still be well-dressed. In private life.
Princess Grace of Monaco wears glasses
most of the time, and she doesn't lose her
attractiveness by doing so.
But you can never put them on as an
afterthought; they must be integrated as
part of the over-all effect you wish to
create. For example, when a girl is wear
ing glasses, she cannot wear a glamorous,
full hat The two clash, in their very in
tent. The glasses tend to create a cool, .
proper, career-girl look, while the big hat
is a bid for high drama. And glasses, of
course, virtually rule out jewelry, partic
ularly earrings, necklaces, and other such
hard-surfaced accents near the face.
Princess Grace's pristine beauty (with
or without glasses) is the result of her
taking stock of herself and realizing that
she is, above all else, interested in being
proper. She knows she is not wildly sensu
ous and does not try to be. She once said:
"If I were just a little different here and
there, I would be what everyone thinks
of as the schoolteacher type."
To protect this image of a refined per
son, Princess Grace always selects the
subdued rather than the dramatic. This
means conservatively cut clothes, relative
ly high, small collars, and colors that nev
er shout. When such simplicity is the
theme of a woman's dress, great attention
must be given to details, for the smallest
faux pas stands out glaringly against
such a muted background. Even stockings
of the wrong shade or texture could ruin
the whole effect
I am sure many women say to them
selves: yes, the real me is very much like
this proper, career-girl type but you just
can't dress that way and be physically
attractive.
That is not true. Many men find a par
ticular allure in the nurse, the stewardess,
and other women in uniforms. Knowing
this, I often have incorporated the little
white collars and starched cuffs of wom
en's uniforms into my fashions. In fact,
some are included in the new line which
I have just introduced.
Princess Grace's direct opposite is Mrs.
William S. Paley, who is always listed
among the best-dressed women. Princess
Grace asks : what is the right thing? Mrs.
Paley says : what I do is the right thing.
She seeks out the dramatic and ex
periments with-daring colors and sump
tuous fabrics. Such an approach is fraught
with danger; the slightest mistake can
give the look of an overdressed woman
(and there is no more horrible look). But
she can bring this off, for she has the
long, elegant figure and aristocratic bear
ing and beauty for which modern fash
ions are primarily created.
Mrs. Paleys social and financial posi
tion give her the self-assurance that is
needed to dress dramatically. But while
(Continued on page 14)
rmmUt WrkJv. October 13, 1MJ 11
Like Walking
en Pillows!
PSchoits
AIR-PILLO
INSOLES
Cr Umarisai
Waftia0fm
Ak-Cuhlan pur than
Ssr araatac cstntsftl
TU aaodaro rnirada of walk
ing eeae gratefully pillowa,
eaatflatae yam faot freea tea
to heaL RaUeeaa painful cei
looaee . . . givaa aiild eupport
of bat.
I laaaan strain
. bain laa
of atandin. waUdac.
Caat againat heat, cold. Siaaa for
mao. woman. At urac, aboe, Dept., E..1U4
Storm AlwayelawMaiilA.Sohott'eliieoleat
.. SIHUOIinl leeeeleeee.
tnirKtiftfMiinil
HELPS HEART ACTION
GIVES MORE STRENGTH
STAMINA VIGOR
PROVH) 1 0 years-600 persons
University Experiments
REFUSE SUBSTITUTES
only VioSift Oil PROVED helpful
Send WOW for mt book ,11
IftOMSIOt (to I vigor lector I fft
uaiLoHnHe Vlotki OH. Soanl I H
baaafMi NOhrtcolorlat. ItJJt
awZflewawawetatatatatamwZfetatalcoaMfaa
VIOBMf MONTICEUO. IUINCHS
CLEANEST, EASIEST, SAFEST
Way To Rid Your Place Of
d-CON MOUSE-PR UFE it so dean, to
easy to we. You just pull tab, and bail feeds
aiMomatkaJty. You never touch a meuy,
"aeri-ty" trap. Beit of all, MOUSEUP. UFE,
used as directed, rs safe to use around children
and honehoid pets, yet is guaranteed lo keep
your place tnotne-tiee
or your money back!
Mice hungrily eat
MOUSE-PR U F E-can't
resist the special, pat-cnicd-praceis
formula,
cat themselves to death
painlessly. Get d-CON
MOUSE-PRUFE!
DOES Getting
(Up HlGIITS
MAKE YOU FEEL OLD
After 3Y common Kidney or Bladder Ir
ritations often occur and mar make rou
tense and nervous from too frequent
passages both dsr and nltbt. Second
arllr. fob mar lose sleep and suffer from
Headaches, Backache and feel old. tired,
depressed. In such Irritation. CYSTEX
ususllr brines fast, reUslna comfort by
curbing: trrltatlns terms la stroos. acid
urine and br anaJsaaic patn relief. Oet
CYSTEX at drtinlsta. Peel better fast.
i era
BtMNB M I I
J
awaaj am MO.IU fUOTJ etlaU Kg
2.
tup H M i Cnnri. mmmn, D , (Of iMm
Are you using
the most modern
way to relieve
hemorrhoids?
Tncube rare with The PAZO
Forawla in eoareaieat saasoailorr
farm ... moat modern way to
shriBk awmwrhoid time without
artery. Here's why . . .
MODERN
IN FORM.
PAZO suppositories arw
people. Handy to carry in
pocket or purse, simple to
use wherever you go.
Stainless, pure-white . . .
no messy applicator, no
measy stains.
MODERN IN FORMULA. Some
products daim all-purpose ingre
dients which are expected to do
many jobs. PAZO suppositories,
however, are a scientifically de
veloped combination of tested in
gredients . . . each chosen for its
ability to do one primary job with
full-strength effectiveness.
htaay rawew Hail HoNk -
baa Hit Mi. tea '""
NraSwl area
Hemorrhoid
Title.
Skrialun X X
leartcaoaa XXX
Actaa X X
Nil MM X
inasew X
Use the most modern way to soothe
and shrink hemorrhoid tissue with
out surgery. ..PAZO suppositories.
Woman Tortured
byAgonizmglTCH
7 nrfj atbdfdttb
Th re-m. Thru 1 ftrndm
new wnderemmt. Near A
I'm bmppf," uritn Mrs.
P. Zmmmyft-A. CmJiJ
Here's biased relief frooiV
tortures of itch m women,
rhvafina- ratt-tal iirSL. rash
and ac aeau with so smuioa new Kientiac
loraali called IANACAN E.Th..fm-runa
mAcMn4cnmtkitthanmtl s-cariiatf-M
while ft soothes raw, irritated and mflsmed
tisaae. Stops tvmcsuna so speeds heslitta.
Doe t ssterl Oet lainas-aink at an
NOW FAST RELIEF
PROM MODIRaTI
ARTHRITIC
RHEUMATIC
MUSCULAR
PAINS
WHBMBVaN TMIV OCCUR
DOLCIN
TABL-ST
Monery-tMck Quarmntve
DRIVE
S-L-O-W-L-Y
How To Hold
FALSE TEETH
More Firmly in Place
Do your false tMth annoy and em
barraaa by slipping, dropping or wob
bling when you eat, laugh or talk?
Just sprinkle a little PABTEKTH an
your plates. Thlsmlkaltne (non-acid)
powder holds falae teeth more firmly
and more comfortably. No gummy,
gooey, pasty taste or feeling. Does not
aour. Check "plate odorr (denture
breath I. Oet PASTKKTH today at
drug counters everywhere.