RflfflT MEDTORD (OREGON) MAIL TRIBUNE
Sunday, August 19, 1936
Paris Produces Romantic Styles
Paris Paris has gone roman
tic. Whether hemlines will stay
as they are or slip down. to ankle
length, the one sure thing of the
Paris haute couture collections
this Autumn is that the romatic
lady the lady who half a cen
tury ago was shoved into the
background has made a come
back. Paris... a climate in which
fashion flourishes has brought
back the truly feminine woman
with a luxury and completeness
hard to comprehend in a ready-to-wear
world. Fabrics are most
often soft . . . woolens, chiffons,
patterned satins, jerseys, softly
textured combinations of natural
and man made fibers have in
spired couturiers to a clinging
vine look.
Key Ho
Faster,
Accurate
Customer
Service
Our amazing new National
tells our staff and you how
much money you gave us
and the exact change due
you. What the register
shows you is also printed on
your itemized "Take-Home"
receipt.
GfZ3lona
change
computation
the latest advance in cus
tomer service is another
convenience we have in
stalled for you.
T-M.,fc U.S. . Ofl.
OK
MARKET
1202 North RivanMa
OPEN EVERY
9
L
ft NIGHT TIL A
NISHTI
The over-all look is one of
great elegance, straight but sup
ple. Within this general pattern,
the lines of the individual Paris
houses are jsharply differentiat
ed .. . women will be garbed in
the manner of Dior, Fath, Lan-vin-Castillo
or Patou rather than
just the "The Paris line."
Many Capes
! Collections are chock full of
capes and drapes and literally
smothered in furs. Color catches
the eye . . . making fashion news
when it is a shade of amethyst
or green. Daytime shapes are
bulky, hats are high and the in
fluence of the Russian ballet in
disputable. Evening clothes are
the most undressed in years:
there is hardly an evening strap
left in Paris.
The cape is everywhere, for
daytime, for evening, in every
fabric, and every color. Dior's
cape curves from a drawstring
collar. Fath's are wide and
swinging. Balmain shows them
in velvet, satin and fur for even
ing. Coats have cape-collars,
suits have cape-backs, dresses
have sleeves which give cape ef
fects.
The high rising waistline lit
: erally demands a longer skirt
to complete the silhouette and
Christian Dior points a firm
warning finger to fashion's fu-
' ture with a group of two day
time and six evening dresses
whose skirts are a bare 10 inches
from the floor. Jacques Heim
also prophetically drops the hem
' line of several dresses in his col
lection to B-i inches. Many
I truly chic women will wear this
startingly longer skirt length for
after five this winter. However
it is felt that the average woman
will lengthen her skirt by de
grees and perhaps by Fall) of
1957 will have come to accept
a longer skirt, reminiscent of the
1910 area, but a longer skirt
that is modified and takes into
consideration the active life led
by the woman of today.
Fabrics Softer
In a season where the silhouet
tes are several and controver
sial, fabrics are softer than in the
past. They often give a three
dimensional impression. Most of
these fabrics are lighter in
weight than appearance suggests,
and infinitely more practical for
today's travel-conscious women
than the heavy fabrics of yester
year. Basket weaves, pettipoint
variations, textured ribs, satin
back novelties, rustic textures,
tone-on-tone tweeds and full
bodied crepes, are shown in syn
thetics such as Acrilan as well as
natural fiber materials.
Many late-day Paris clothes
are embroidered. Fabrics for
evening were lush velvets, plain
and warp-printed satins, failles,
reps, chiffons, and lace.
Christian Dior calls his new
silhouette the "magnet." Visual
ize three horseshoe-shaped mag
nets, graduated in size, placed
one above the other with the
smallest on top, and you'll have
an idea of his shape. The smaller
top magnet is for the high, deep
fitting hats . . . the middle one
for rounded shoulders and high
bustiine . . . and the large one
symbolizes skirts that are ever-so-slightly
barrel shaped.
Dior's Dresses Slim
Dior's daytime dresses are all
slim looking but they are no
longer straight sheaths; they zip
up the back, in front are skill
fully draped to a high waistline
with a single button closing
for daytime or a black silk rose
for the cocktail hour. Skirts
move easily ' but appear slim
with softly rounded hips. Ex
cept for the much-talked-of six
ankle length dresses, Dior's hem
line is still short, falling three
to four inches below the knee.
Dior's jackets are kimono
sleeved and bulky, and often
lined with fur. His coats have
rounded draped shoulders and
wide sleeves and his capes (and
he shows them in abundance),
whether short or long, are cut
close to the body and cup into
the hem.
For evening wear Dior shows
simple, flowing chiffon dresses
with fichus and matching elbow
length gloves. For the more
sophisticated women, Dior has
created daring decollete neck
lines, on gowns with long, tight
sleeves to be worn with velvet
picture hats or sailors made1 of
black tulle.
The Patou sillhouette is pret
ty, feminine and completely
wearable. Designer Marc Bohan
put great emphasis on "little
dresses." These, are mostly with
curving, scooped-away necklines
and wide short sleeves. Skirts
are all short (no hint of longer
skirts to come here). Slim day
dresses usually have matching
jackets often bulky-looking
and fur lined, varying in length
from waist to finger-tip. Great
wide stoles often give added top
width to these ensembles.
"V" Look New
"V" stands for everything in
Castillo's collection for Lavin;
for big V-shaped stoles in bulky
tweeds for daytime and embroi
dered or printed satin for even
ing, for V-shaped belts, for vel
vet capes that come to a V on
coats, and for velvet caps that
come to a V on the forehead.
His suits and coats are hooded
and muffled, fur Jined or fur
trimmed and show a definite
cossack influence.
Pierre Balmain's collection is
more lavish and beautiful than
ever this season with floor
sweeping evening capes, fur hats
and stoles, great tulle scarves
and some of the most magnifi
cent ballgowns in Paris. His em-
broderies, as always, are super
lative. Balmain introduced a
cape-like back for coats and suit
jackets alike, with sleeves that
start low.
Jacques Heim has labeled his
new collection "The sinuous
line." His line is slim and supple,
giving the figure an elegant
slouch. It comes through most
strongly in his small group of
"shades of things to come". . .
day and evening dresses whose
hemlines measure a bare 8V4
inches from the floor. One of the
CAILIEITOAlIi
Sunday:
1 p.m. Moose picnic, Jackson
Hot Springs.
1:30 p.m. Royal Neighbors
and Mistletoe club, Girls Scout
park.
Mondayi
12:30 p.m. Grandmothers
club. Rogue chapter, 113, home
of Mrs. Robert Rucker, 26
Quince St.
8 p.m. Olive Rebekah lodge
Odd Fellows hall, 221 West
Sixth st.
8 p.m. VFW Auxiliary,
dance at Camp White domicil
iary theatre.
Tuesday:
9 a.m.-9 p.m. Chapter C. G
of P.b.O. histerhood, rummage
sale, 110 North Ivy st.
10-12 noon Grace circle of
the First Presbyterian church
and Temple circle, home of Mrs.
Ted Walland, Ross lane.
12:30 p.m. Oak Grove Neigh
borhood club, home of Mrs. V. A.
Turpin, 3533 Jacksonville high
way. 1 p.m. Rogue Valley Navy
Mother's club, home of Mrs.
Ralph Merritt, 2685 Crater Lake
highway.
1:30 p.m. Butte Falls Gard
en clubs, home of Mrs. Clay
Conley.
1:30 p.m. Lady Elks, Elks
dining room.
2 p.m. Voters Service com
mittee of the League of Women
Voters, home of Miss Laura
York, 5087 West Tenth st.
8 p.m. Crater Lake Post and
Auxiliary 1833 VFW, VFW Hall,
42 North Front st.
Wednseday:
12 noon Medford Townsend
club, Carpenters Union hall,
123'.i West Main st.
12 noon Esther circld Zion
Lutheran church, home of Mrs.
Irvin Eitreim, 917 South Ivy.
8 p.m. Women of the Moose,
Moose Hall.
Thursday:
9:30 a.m. Circle 4, Christian
Women's fellowship brunch, Mrs.
M. E. Olson, 111 Newtown.
most outstanding dresses in this
group was an ankle-length ofter
noon dress called "Sinueuse"
modeled in a silk wool and
Acrilan rustic-textured tweed. It
is a high-waisted narrow sheath,
slit at the hemline for walking.
Worn with it is a Svend-designed
feather cossack hat.
Linstiek is Pink
Lipstick is pink. Eye make
up is intensified to counteract
the bulky hats. Beauty spots
have made a comeback; a beauty
spot that is not the patch of
the 18th century but a small
dark circle made with an eye
brow pencil and used to focus
attention on a beautiful feature.
There is a lot of the matched
look in Paris this season. Cos
tumes have a minimum of color
contrasts from tall hats to
pointed toe pumps. ' Earrings
dangle once again.
Biege has turned to taupe.
shades of mauve and green make
the color news in collections that
give an over-all impression . of
fur and spice-brown shades, as
well as black.
W ',Jzrstf - J
New
Fall Catalog
e!
If YOU DO NOT HAVE WARDS NEW FAIL CATA
LOG, STOP IN OUR CATALOG DEPARTMENT AND
ASK TO BORROW A LIBRARY COPY FOR 2 WEEKS.
Fall Fashion
Whole Family!
ou don't need a crystal ball to see
It the fine things in your shopping
future. Now, right now, you can shop
Wards new Fall and Winter Catalog!
Here are the latest styles in chic
clothing . . . fine furnishings for the
home . . . automobile accessories ... al
most everything you need. Remember,
now that it's time to start thinking
about back-to-school wardrobes, think
first of Words Fall Catalog, for ex
cellent selection and easy shopping!
SHOP BY
PHONE Just ca!l 2'8075 or 2-4546
1 p.m. Circle 1, Christian
Women's fellowship, dessert,.
Mrs. C.M. Stiger, 1036 Murray.
1 p.m. Circle 2, Christian
Women's fellowship, dessert,
Mrs. J. T. Davis, 1112 East
Main st.
1 p.m. Circle 3, Christian
Women's fellowship, dessert,
Mabyl Buchanan, Griffin Creek
road.
1 p.m. Circle 5, Christian
Women's fellowship, dessert.
Mrs. Wilmer Robertson, 1517
Wilson place.
1 p.m. Circle 6, Christian
Women's fellowship, dessert,
Mrs. Lee Bailey, 1625 Poplar
drive.
1 p.m. Medford Sojourner's
club, Pythian hall.
1:30 p.m. Ruth circle, Zion
Lutheran church, home of Ruth
Hertager, 47 North Orange.
6:30 p.m. Rotary Garden
party, home of P. E. Brainerd,
226 Valley View drive.
6:30 p.m. Miriam and Mary
circles, Zion Lutheran church.
home of Mrs. James Wicker, 809
Adams lane.
American. Girls
Prettier, Smarter,
Declares Director
New York (U.R) American
girls not only get prettier all
the time, but they're also getting
wiser.
So says attractive Karen Jar-
dane, who estimates she has
talked with 2.500 to 3.000 beau
ty contest hopefuls in the last
10 years.
Miss Jardane, Danish-born
and a former professional
dancer, now is physical director
for a school of models and air
lines stewardesses (Grace
Downs). She does the prelimin
ary screening for the Miss New
York contest, one of the local
preliminaries to the Miss Amer
ica beauty pageant in Atlantic
City, N. J. And for the last
seven years, sne has acted as
chaperone to the New York win
ner. Miss Jardane said the na
tion's girls more and more are
becoming the "long-legged,
wholesome-looking type.
"Nowadays the loveliest ones
don't depend entirely on their
beauty . . . they've developed
their personalities and their talents."
The most common figure
problem?
Too much, at both hipline
and waistline," she said.
CAFE DRESS '
New York (U.R) Enter a new
fashion term . . . the cafe dress.
Manufacturer Herbert Sond-
heim uses it to describe his fall
collection of black silk crepes
for dress-up occasions.
Home Economlsf
Warns Teen-Agers
On Diet Habits
By BETTY JANE SOUTHARD
United Press Correspondent
Washington (U.R) One
nutrition expert warns teen-age
girls to eat properly now for
healthy children in later years.
Dr. Helen A. Hunscher, chair
man of the department of home
economics. Western Reserve
University, said that many ill
nesses affecting new-born in
fants were caused by the faulty
teen-age eating habits of their
mothers.
"An infant is nine months old
at birth from a nutrition stand
point." the expert said at a re
cent home economics convention
here. "And wether the child is
healthy or not depends on his
mother's nutritional status be
fore conception."
Since one fourth of the wo
men bearing children today are
under 20-year of age, teen-age
eating habits are particularly
important.
The nutritionist said that a
recent study showed that "al
most six percent of the deaths i
among 18 and 19-year-old girls !
was due to pregnancy and child-
birth."
Dr. Hunscher said that re
search has proved that a poorly- j
nourished mother is more prone
to have stillborn or premature j
infants. And even if the babies I
survive, they contract more ill-1
nesses during the first years of
life. . i
"On the other hand," she '
said, "babies born to women on
adequate diets are about 11-
ounces larger, have a better j
chance of survival, and contract
less illness during infancy." ,
And there are fewer stillborn or j
premature babies born to these
mothers.
The expert emphasized the im
oortance of pre-natal nutrition
by pointing out the rapidity of
growth during pregnancy.
"If a new born child continued
to grow at the same rate," she
said, "at the age of ten, he'd be
20-feet tall."
1
New York (U.R) Another
gadget for woman's purse, al
ready overflowing: a purse-size
stapler, in black with gold-plated
base and just the thing for a
hasty repair of broken slip strap
or sagging hemline. Also handy
for stapling together such purse
miscellany as bills, sales silps,
and memos.
Chilled Soup Good
For Hot Day Menu
New York (U.R) Chilled
soup for a hot day a sure way
to perk up appetites which tend
to lag in the summer. Make
cooking the soups easy by pre
paring them in the cool of the
morning and letting them chill
until serving time.
Here's one cool combination
asparagus and cucumber. You
will need 1 can (No. 300) of
white asparagus; 2 cups chopped
cucumber; V cup finely chopped
onion; 1 teaspoon of salt; 1 cup
of milk; and 1 pup light cream.
Combine the undrained as
paragus, cucumber, onion and
salt. Cook over low heat 20
LONG HAIR HATS
New York (U.R) Now -hit
threaten to go "long-hair." Long
hair felts dominated in a recent
fashion show by one millinery
importer and distributor (Henry
Uollak Co.). Hats f-om 50 Amer
ican and European designers
featured fluffed-up naps fully
an inch thick.
minutes, put through a sieve or
food mill. Add milk and cream
and chill thoroughly. Garnish
with parsley when ready to
One-fourth of the Army'i civil
ian employees are in supply and
maintenance depots.
Air travel has shown its great
est Increase in most countries
since World War II. One-third
of all passengers between Paris
and London and seven" out of
10 between the United States
(and Canada) and South Amer
ica travel by air.
Lovely New China from San Juan
in the Caribbean .. .the wannthand
romance of tropic islands captured in fascinating
new colors and patterns . . . light, shimmering
beauty, gracefully designed for everyday "luxury
in dining" . . . gleaming and translucent ... so
durable, it's fully guaranteed-replaced free if at
all damaged in home use within a year.
s
CASUAL CHINA
1-
st- r.
a
M
- w
r v
MARDI GRAS
A vivid interpretation v.
of the colorful, roman- ; Starter Set
tic festival of Trinidad. ' P only $14.95
- i ... , - ,
in mveiy mnjuoise ana ,
off cKba. t .
white body.
ONITA
$16.95
(4 dinner plates, 4 bread butUra.
cupa, 4 saucer)
PINK FANCY
$14.9$
Hubbard Bros., Inc.
Main and Riverside
Phone 2-6119
WATCH
WARDS
for
Extras!
"match" tha.t'Sparks
, the fall scene!
Wards dyed -to -match sweaters,
skirts in Matador red, nassau
blue and soft mink brown
CT3
lhew
TV 1
0 Fin gauge Orion cardigan)
matching paarl buttons. 34-40. 5.9f
fH Matching lip-on, trimly fitted
with snug ribbed collar. 34-40. 3.9.
(c) Skirt. of Milliken wool tweed
With fashion-right button trim. 10-18. 6.9t
Mock-turtle Orion fitted sweater
with push-up sleeves. 34-40. 3.9t
(D Skirt of Milliken wool flannel,
convenient back zip. 10-1 8. 5.tl