Medford Woman Finds Monaco
Has Musical Comedy Setting
Sunday. April 1, 1956
MEDFORD (OREGON) MAIL TRIBUNE SEVEN
fEditor'i nou: Mrs. I. E. St-hulrr.
Medfurd woman spending several
months in Europe, is now in Monaco
and has written n account of life in
this little principality for The Med
ford Mail Tribune)
By MARGARET SCHULER
Monte Carlo, Monaco In an
ticipation of the big event here
on April 19, a little prodding
nd suggestion from your socie
ty editor that Medford readers
might be interested in all that
Is necessary for me to write my
impressions of the Prince Rai
nier bailiwick.
Actually, to an outsider, there
is little to indicate on the sur
face that the great celebration is
about to happen. Picture post
cards of Miss Kelly disappoint
ing ones are for sale in the
magazine and book shops; an
enlarged facsimile of the stamp
(about which philatelists are in
a fever) to be released on the
day of the wedding is displayed
in the travel bureau window;
workmen are busily polishing
the already highly polished lit
tle place, and in the gardens ex
tending from the casino up to
the main street, are spreading
on the wide paths a rich red
topping startlingly theatrical
against the bright green of the
new grass and the pink of the
large round flower beds.
Things like that new flood
lights, new trims on hotels.
It is under the smooth surface
that there are rufflings, like who
is invited, who is coming (it is
rumored that no royalty will be
here, only representatives)
where will they seat and how
the many guests in the cathe
dral, which holds only about
500.
Grumbling Heard
There is grumbling too, that
the press and photographers will
occupy coveted space when, as
an astute English woman re
marked, "One or two could write
all that is necessary."
In the hotel lobby, and from
men's clubs, one hears many
things. The prince has ordered
4.000 champagne glasses, with
his crest of red and white en
graved on them. Ke will give a
party for the Monagesque peo
ple in the gardens at the palace
before the wedding. There will
be a luncheon for the family. He
is in Paris shopping for the wed
ding. He has bought jeweled
brooches rubies and diamonds
for the eight bridesmaids.
The civil wedding is to be on
the 18th. After the wedding on
the 19th, there is a ballet with
Margot Fonteyn and an English
company, at 9 o'clock, after
which the happy couple will
leave on the Prince's yacht for
their honeymoon.
Hotels Full
Miss Kelly has reserved the
top floor of the Hotel de Paris
for her guests about 100. Ho
tels are booked full not only
here, but at Cannes, Nice, and all
along the Riviera. Even the har
bor master has troubles park
ing problems. So many yacht
owners have applied for moor
ing that "there isn't a cupful of
water space left."
Invitations to one function or
another, I understand, are great
ly to be desired and devious
methods are resorted to, to ob
tain them. Yesterday, the Eng
lish colony a great crowd of
them met here to view a solid
gold table clock they are pre
senting. The Dutch, the Ameri
can . colony, and I don't know
how many others, have collected
money for gifts.
Surely the prince will have
to do something about that. At
any rate, there will be much to
see decorations, flowers, fire
works and illumination on the
water. And the wedding gifts
which will be on display.
No one will be permitted on
La Roc,' excepting the people
who live there, and guests with
invitations. A gate is to be put
up at the entrance. All this may
well be in American papers al
ready. What I write is purely
alleged.
It is really about La Roc, and
the palace, that I wish to write.
Yesterday, I went with a wom
an, well steeped in Monacan
lore, up to La Roc, hich is a
spur of rockbound land, jutting
into the Mediterranean. To
reach it, you climb high up a
winding, smooth road, beside
which are old, overhanging
trees, gardens, paths and strate
gic viewpoint parapets. .
From the top you look over
Monte Carlo, Monaco, the innu
merable villas along the Riviera
and the sea. From the paths
along the edge protected by an
old stone wall, you may peer
down the dizzying precipices to
the water, smashing and foam
ing against the rocks and coves
at the bottom.
Besides the palace, govern
ment buildings, villas and cathe
dral here is Monacoville sure
ly the most adorable storybook
village in all Europe. Its paved
streets are narrow and crooked;
its buildings are all painted
some sort of rich cream, and the
ubiquitous shutters and wrought
iron balconies trimmed in pale
green; its shops and markets are
small, clean and attractive; sing
ing birds are in open windows
and flower pots and lamps
adorn the outside walls.
It is the essence of old world
quaintness without the poverty
and dirt which so often mars an
effect over here.
Palace Small
The palace is small compared
with for instance Windsor,
Schunbrunn or Pitti. In front of
it, two delightful guards like
toy soldiers march sturdily
back and forth in their red and
black uniforms, white spats, blue
helmets and gay epaulets, car
rying guns with fierce bayonets
sticking up the top.
On either side of the big open
doors ' leading into the Inner
courtyard, is a tiny guard house
striped red and white, like stick
candy. Six bronze cannon
(charming little cannon with
elaborately decorated seahorse
handles and the whole overlaid
with a patina of rich greens) neat
rusty cannon balls beside them,
point seriously out onto the
piazza.
Across from this courtyard,
which I think at one time was a
parade ground, are shops, where
you may buy souvenirs and
stamps, or sit on the terrace of
the tea house, drink something
and watch the gentle picture
which, taken altogether, is quite
like a musical comedy setting
and onto which a chorus might
suddenly dance or Grace, her
self, in white robe, pointed hat
and flowing veils might ride in
on a richly caparisoned charger
her prince behind her.
Palace Delightful
Inside, too, the palace is a de
light to see, and it is '-here, I
imagine, that much refurbishing,
polishing and cleaning has tak
en place. The large chandeliers
sparkle and glitter with fresh
washing, the marble floors shine,
and much of the furniture and
window hangings look newly
upholstered, although the wall
tapestries show little splits at
testing to age.
The throne room, really quite
small, is all in red. Other salons
are in blue, green. or gold. Love
ly bric-a-brac not too much
pleasant portraits and paintings
not too many and not too
warlike or religious adorn the
rooms. Big door windows open
onto balconies with panoramic
views. From inside, doors open
onto an arcade, extending all
around the inner courtyard.
Here, workmen were painting
and scrubbing the great, grace
ful marble stairway, which goes
into the court.
I should have liked to ask
about a richly colored frescoe
on the walls in the inner court,
but our guide spoke no English,
no one, anywhere, speaks Eng
lish. The most satisfactory thing
I saw, which makes the palace
unique in my estimation, are the
large, usable looking fireplaces
in- every room complete with
andirons and fenders.
After the palace, we went to
the cathedral, which is, by cathe
dral standards, small. It is all
greystone, dark, and typical of
European churches. As we came
down from the altar, we saw a
startling effect, the large doors
were open, and the only thing
visible was the blue Mediterra
nean, framed like a picture. It
was almost as though you would
walk out, and down into water.
Everything considered, I would
say Miss Kelly has decided well
all this, and the Prince, too
He is much beloved and respect
ed in Monaco. I would write
stories I have heard about the
family, but that had better be
person to person.
The history of Monaco is in
teresting. Its beginnings are lost
in. obscurity of antiquity. Since
earliest times the rock has serv
ed as a refuge. In addition to its
impregnable position, it has the
advantage of a harbor. During
jts long history, Monaco has
passed back and forth, through
many wars, from one country to
another.- In 1861, France, with
land on both sides, bought part
of the little country, guaranteed
its independence and paid the
then prince, Charles III, indem
nity for the loss.
History of Gaming
As it was necessary to find
revenue other than taxes, it was
this Charles, and his mother,
who conceived the idea of aug
menting their income with a,
gaming house. A man who had
made a success of such a venture
in Munich was called in to man
age it. Later he was called the
Magician of Monaco, because of
the incredible success from the
beginning of the now opulent
and fabulous casino.
The Monagesque people seem
to have plenty no one here
pays taxes. At any rate every
thing seems easy, dignified,
charming and deceptively
smooth. Fortunes dropped here
by kindly people the world over
take care of minor details. Oc
casionally a relic of a tragic end
ing is seen wandering about the
streets and it is said that in the
hotels, charitable managements
and more fortunate friends look
after many a well known person
through long years.
At the moment . Monte Carlo
opera season is on and many big
names in the music world are
here from LaScala, Vienna and
Paris. The theater is in the Casi
no, and between acts, one may
wander from the foyer into the
gaming rooms and watch the
roulette play.
' Evening, with full dress, be
gins at 10 o'clock. All day and
every day there is playing, and
unless you know (which just
now I am learning) you might
think, in the day time,a crowd
of Iowa farmers had come in for
a country fair.
One afternoon, a couple of
really oldsters staggered in, each
with a cane, and my friend said,
"Oh, that is Lord and Lady
somebody (I don't remember)
they come every afternoon."
Milord had to sit down to rest
a few minutes before he could
venture farther into the room
to the table.
I walked up to a table last
evening just as, what gave every
appearance of being a small
town customer, collected 260,
000 francs in one play. Not one
eyelid flickered (but mine) the
croupier pushed over the big
chips,- the man threw down 10,
000 more, on to the same num
bers, gave a 5,000 franc tip, and
walked casually away to another
table where he had a play going.
This time he lost, he lost
again, twice more, and then I left.
My hands were perspiring and I
couldn't take it, even vicarious
ly. It is said that Monte Carlo is
the most legitimate casino in
Europe, and my friends here,
who play, speak with high
praise regarding it.
Certainly, it isn't as glamorous
as our moving pictures would
indicate nor as sinister.
No particular cognizance is
made of English or Americans,
which surprises me because
there are plenty of them living
here. French is the language,
French the clothes, French the
food, and French the books. I
cannot find an English' diction
ary in any store. I couldn't find
a history of Monaco in English.
At the Hotel de Paris one may
buy Time, Life, Vogue and the
Paris edition of the New York
times that is all. I see a few
Cadillacs, but for the most part
cars are European. Many things
here are puzzling and frustrat
ing to this small town girl. M.S.
n nun u
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