roua MEDroitD (Oregon) mail tribuhe
Wednesday. March . 1U3
1952 Bridal
Gowns Have
Heirloom Air
The traditional wedding gown
is an accepted fact, this Spring,
for7 formal and informal brides
alike. And its enchanting heir
loom possibilities are enhanced,
to the utmost, by lavish Princess
and Empire styling, the abun
dant use of rich fabrics that are
luxuriously accented by a wide
variety of embroideries and lace
trims.
Billowy, puffed or soft-crushed
sleeves, exaggerated decollete
necklines, dramatic, lace-emphasized
overskirts with graceful,
sweeping skirts on floor-length
gowns and scalloped hemlines on
bouffant skirted street - length
gowns combine to create an
effect of superlative elegance.
The wide use of luxurious fab
rics and trims includes such lilt
ing and airy types as nylon tulle
combined with nylon ribbon lace
embroidery and iridescent-bead-
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Formal or informal, the Spring
'52 brlda will dress in traditional
finery. Her, her headpieca has
a pearl outlined patal motif. A
singla strand of paarls at her
throat carries out lha theme of
her headpiece. And her nail
polith is a complementary shade
of pink by Cutex.
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Traditional for every trousseau,
is tha nealiaee and gown ensem
ble the bride cherishes and wears
for long to come. Typical choice-
could be this champagne coiorea
nylon net negligee, trimmed and
appliqued with pink satin, and
worn with a simply styled gown
of matching satin. Angel wings
by Juel Park.
ed lace with rows of lace ruffles.
A street-length gown In this light
manner is of white re-embroidered
lace in a princess style,
with gores and a scalloped hem
line serving to accentuate the
smooth -flowing shoulder-to-hem
lines.
Classic satin is also prominent
ly featured for this Spring's wed
ding gowns. Here, it might ap
pear as a full-trained floor
length princess gown with the
gleaming satin combined with a
lace long-sleeved bodice that pre
sents an Empire bolero look.
Sportswear
For Junior
Has New Air
Jackets Will
Be Shorter
Sportswear, for juniors and
their misses' size sisters, has a
dressed-up air, this Spring, cap
tured from fashions popular at
the turn of the century.
Jackets are shorter and snug
ger. They appear as picturesque
basque tops, figure-hugging
spencers, perky bolero and lit
tle capes.
Skirts, although In many in
stances still billowing out with
petticoats beneath for emphasis
of this swirling effect, are slim
mer and more gentle in line, fea
turing fullness in back panels or
all-around pleating.
Sweater blouses, too, are gala
for the new season. Presented in
soft pastel shades, these blouses
often have dramatic boat-shape
or draped surplice necklines,
and make generous use of this
season's favored full-blown
sleeves.
Retaining their popularity for
outdoor living are pedal pushers,
brief shorts, slacks, circle skirts,
back-wrapped skirts and middy
pullovers. But, these too, are of
ten offered in dressed-up ver
sions of hardy sportswear fab
rics.
Typical of the dressed-up fab
rics is denim, that hard-wearing
sportswear favorite. It is dressed
up for a gay entrance into the
Spring '52 fashion season by
touches of embroidery, jet, braid
and quilting.
, One example is a mandarin-
type cardigan jacket and pedal
pusher ensemble of quilted faded
blue denim lined in gold cotton.
Another instance of denim in a
dressed-up mood is a waist
length blue denim jacket with
lantern sleeves that are center-
bordered with white string lace
Adnenne's
high fashion notes for
The straight back fullness with pen
dulum width at the sides,- the new
brushed texture of the fleece, the great
big burton, the interesting slashed
pockets. Glowing Spring colors. Sizes
10-16.
COATS
The new cardigan neckline that steps
short of a gay scarf or smart necklace,
the jewel-tabbed trim, the light-weight
boucle poodle cloth with all of Spring's
texture interest. Light and bright col
ors. Sizes 10 to 16.
SUITS
from $19.98 to $150
: from $14.98 to $125
Sizes 7-15, 10-44
LISTEN TO DR. GEO. CRANE
Monday Through Friday 11:15 A.M.
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Tha tiny waist, tha full swinging skirt these add up to tha pret
tiest coat silhouette of the season. This fitted coat has big side
pockets to accent tha curve of the hip and the flare of the skirt.
Tha double notch collar is designed to stand up perkily. Tha tweed
fabric, of the coat, in a crow s foot pattern, is by rorzsmann. The
coat is Carmel design. Tha hat is a petal-brimmed sailor by Sally
Victor. , .
Influence of Paris
Designs Brought Out
In Spring Fashions
It's a romantic and feminine Spring. Fashions bloom with a
definite aura of the turn of the Century, much Empire feeling and,
over all., the influence of Paris designs. These are to be seen in
sieves puffed out to exaggerated fullness, closely molded midriffs,
elongated torso lines and novel back interest.
There is also an abundance of tiny figure hugging jackets, like
the bolero and the spencer, nipped in waistlines, billowing skirts,
made crisp and puffy by petticoats beneath, and excitingly tex
tured fabrics used for everything from coats to scarfs.
Sleeves puff out in a multitude
of ways. They are layer upon
layer of tiny cape sleeve. They
flare out at the elbow, lantern
out to the elbow or appear leg
of mutton full at the very top of
a long sleeve.
Giant Sleeves
On dresses, sleeves are note
worthy, short and full, some
times layered with self fabrics,
at other times trimmed with a
contrasting print or accordion
pleated airy fabric such as or
gandy. '
Sleeves on coats may be brace
let or elbow length. But in. all in
stances they are full and deep
set with deeper than usual arm
holes. Suit sleeves look newest
in a curved outline crescent
shape with graduated fullness
outside the elbow.
The closely molded midriffs,
so typical of Empire silhouettes,
are seen everywhere. They are
outlined by very narrow self
belts, decorative contrasting
seams, cummerbunds or tiny
jackets that stop short just be
low the bust.
Placing emphasis on an elon
gated torso line, is the middy top
look first introduced in Paris. It
is most effective when combined
with a full skirt that may be
pleated, gathered or simply a
whirl all around.
Back Bells
Back interest also a reflertinn
of Paris design, is generously
usea on coats and suits. For
COatS. belts. Dlaced hieh acrnsa
the shoulders, hold back fullness
pertly in check. On other coats,
fullness falls from a seam de
signed straight across the shoul
der blades. While suits feature
skirts that hang straight and slim
in front and gathered fullv in
back.
The tiny figure hugging jack
ets, used so much for emphasis
of newly molded midriffs, tishtlv
nipped waistlines and full, full
SKirts, can De made of fur, top a
suit or be independent little top
pers. -Thev are deslsnH a
straight little cardigan jackets.
iney appear as rounded boleros,
bodice accenting spencers, shoul
der wraps and with loose capey
effects. .
Nipped in waists, the perfect
accompanim e n t to billowing
skirts, appear on suits with bod
ice hugging, arch hipped jackets.
They lend a doll-like quality to
crisply fabrie-ed, full -skirted
dresses. And they are featured,
on newly popular princess line
coats, just above a flared skirt.
Skirts Billow
Almost dominating the Spring
fashion silhouette are the skirts
that bell out on suits, dresses and
coats. They offer youthful charm
when fluffed out over petticoats.
Many are all fluttering pleats.
While newest looking are the
SKirts that are definitely nar
rower and smooth hipped,
shaped by gores and linings to
stand away from the figure in a
well-defined roundness.
Hats To Blend
With Ensemble ,
Hats, new for Spring, come
ready to blend with the entire
ensemble.
For the many costumes with
tiny waists and important sleeves,
milliners have emphasized the
Gibson Girl feeling with a won
derful variety of crisp new sail
ors.
There are large sailors and
little sailors in every collection.
Crowns are invariably shallow,
but brims do all kinds of tricks
.so that some hardly look like
sailors at all. Some of these flat
little sailors are meant to be
worn straight on top of the head
and others are angled to a dan
gerous tilt, but made to stay on
by decorative ribbon covered
cups or bright bandeaus.
Spring bonnets are brief and
feminine, with a Directoire feel
ing that makes them perfect for
clothes of the same derivation.
These bonnets sit high on the
head and often curve up at the
back in a little "ducktail" peak.
Som.' bonnets have brims that
are cut off or folded back In a
squared line across the brow,
combined with " abbreviated
crown that is open at the back.
Still other bonnets have deep
visor-like brjms, like a poke bon
net without a crown.
The fashion for pleats is
echoed in intricately pleated
straw hats, hats with pleated
brims and hats trimmed with
pleated silk. Ruffles are repeatti
in rippling brims and the fashion
for patent leather accessories in
spires the use of highly lacquered
"patent leather straws."
Spring hat materials "are excit
ingly interesting. Two tones of
fine milan-type braid are com
bined, row on low, in striped ef
fects. Shiny straws are braided
together in checkerboard and
plaid patterns.
Color and texture contrasts are
combined in hat bodies of nar
row black velvet iibbon and
wide natural straw, chenille cro
cheted with straw yarn and pale
angora yarn sewn on smooth
balibuntals . Monotone straws
pair dull and shiny straws,
smooth and rough braids or cot
ton fringe and net. Elegant straw-
cloths are woven in delicate pas
tels, with a. thread of gold or sil
ver to make them shine.
' Trimmings are important but
unobtrusive. The tiniest flowers
are preferred for clusters and
garlands of accent, although
sometimes a single perfect rose
or a huge silk poppy is used in
such a way that it seems a part of
the hat rather than a trimming,
The soft, airy beauty of curl
ed ostrich feathers makes a sur
prising debut on straw hats of
dramatic size. Fine handwork,
such as a lacy embroidery of tiny
white beads or a frosty overlay
of dewy iridescent sequins, gives
an unmistakable richness to un
assuming little hats of shantung
and balibuntal straws. Veiling,
sheer nylon and chiffon scarves,
too, are always a necessary part
of the hat's design.
- Many new shades of blue team
up with the soft blues of Spring
costumes. Tri-color hats occa
sionally appear, but more often
the red, white and blue costume
gets a hat of red accented white
or navy with white.
The hat that "goes every
where" is as apt to be beige or
natural straw, as it is black,
white or navy. Hats of sunny yel
low are surprisingly versatile
and there are many Spring-like
hats in pale lemon, lime and
Hats, designed for Spring, are
small and right for new shorter
hair-dos. Akjeve, tha wears a
pillbox that combines narrow
yellow and smoke grey straw
braid in a striking pattern. The
shallow edge of tha crown Is
banded with deep grey grot
grain and a platter button. By
Sally V.
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LEON'S THIS WEEK!
2Jv
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A pert, reversible cape tops this city-chic
nyon print . . . designed to do wonderful things
. .. for your figure with its slender skirt and
waist-cinching belt Note the clever contrasting
color tabs adding a spice of color to this versatile
fc-evcrywbere summer sophisticaXc 29 95
21 N. CENTRAL
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