BEDFORD MAIL TRIBUNE. fEDFORD. OREO OX. WEDNESDAY, JULY 2S, 1937.
PAGE FIVE
SOUTHERN PACIFIC
TO CONSTRUCT NEW
depot mm
Work to Start Within Next
Two Weeks Is Word to
. Chamber of Commerce
Plan One-Story Building
ASHLAND. July 38. (Spl.) Con
struction will be urtsd within the
next two weeks on a new Southern
Pacific railroad passenger station, ac
cording to J. A. Ormandy, general
passenger agent of the Southern Pa
cific compsny, who accompanied A.
S. Rosenbaum In a visit to Ashland
Tuesday.
Mr. Ormandy received a telegram
Monday night while at Crater Lake
Informing him that the company had
decided to make this Improvement.
Plans for this structure have been In
the company's flies for five years, ac
cording to Mr. Ormandy, but con
struction was delayed because of
other major Improvement expendi
tures by the company.
The present station bunoing. which
Is a relic of busier former days In
railroading bere, will be completely
torn down, to be replaced by an at
tractive one-story building that will
be devoted entirely to passenger and
baggage service, according to Mr.
Ormandy. The new building will be
on approximately the same alte as
the present structure, Mr. Ormandy
stated, and will contain the best
possible facilities for handling the
Increasing pstronage from this area,
which the company anticipates will
materially Increase In the future.
A modern ticket office, baggage
room, rest rooms and other facilltlea
for the expeditious handling of pas
senger service will be lnoluded In the
structure, blueprint of which Is ex
pected to be received within the next
week.
Plenty of parking space will be
available and the station grounds
will be greatly beautified. The pres
ent freight station, which has been
recently Improved and repaired, will
be retained and continue to handle
the freight business of the company
Recently the local chamber of
commerce corresponded with the
Southern Pacific company, request
ing that they replace the antiquated
present structure with a more mod
ern building and Mr. Ormandy said
that It had been a pleasure to Inform
Attorney Frank Van Dyke, president
of the chamber of 'commerce, that
this was to be done Immediately.
BARTLEffYlELD
CUT BY BLIGHT
Interest in the approaching fruit
season la running high, but Informa
tion regarding the pears was sparse
today, except (or two or three scat
tered Items gleaned from various of
ficials.
Assistant County Agent Cordy an
nounced that the only new develop
ment In his department concerning
pears was that an estimate of blight
damage was now possible and that
the valley's B&rtlett crop has been
reduced twenty per cent by this
scourge. However, the blight which
waa caused by & heavy second bloom,
la now almost completely under con
trol. This year's blight, the worst in re
cent years, is of such a type that not
even the "blight proof pear produced
by Dr. Relmer of the Southern Ore
gon Experiment Station, would be
Immune from Its ravages.
On the commercial side of the pear
Industry P. Kramer Deuel of the traf
ftc association predicted that there
would be little labor trouble In the
valley this year. Mr. Deuel also said
that the traffice association's at
tempts to exempt packing house em
ployes from the minimum wage terms
set by congress had thus far met
with no success.
4
Bar Communist Vote.
ALBANY, N. Y., July 28. P) New
York's court of appeals today barred
the Communist party from the of
ficial state ballot as a recognized po
litical organization.
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State Bankers President
Strictly Oregon Product
(By The Associated Press.)
The word "Oregon" is written
through - the business career of Clyde
Williamson. . Albany, new president
of the Oregon State Bankers' Associ
ation. He is a native of this sUte. received
his elementary education in Its pub
lic schools and then took a degree at
Oregon State College in 1B08.
He has been associated with the
First National Bank of Albany for
more than eight years and served as
cashier and director of the Albany
State bank and the Bank of Albany
for 18 years.
Williamson Is not a newcomer to
the official affairs of the bank or
ganization. Ha was chairman of the
agricultural committee from 1934 to
1836 and served as vice president
through the 1938-37 term.
Governor Charles Martin appointed
him to the executive committee of
the Willamette valley project last
yesr.
Williamson devoted considerable
time to civic affairs in Albany and
Lynn county and went to the state
senate in 1933. He was Oregon's dele
gate to the west bus and truck con
ference at Salt Lake In 1934 and was
a member of the senate interim com
mittee on appointments to the state
board of higher education from 1933
to 1935.
. .
ITU HEAD UUDS
SALEM, July 38, (AP) Praise of
the Oregon liquor commission's new
regulations governing liquor advertls-!
lng came today .from Mrs. Esther A. j
F. May, Pendleton, state W. C. T. U.!
director, In a letter to Arthur K. Mc
Mahan, chairman of the commission.
McMahan forwarded the letter to
Governor Martin asserting It is "typi
cal" of letters he has received.
"We wish to commena you for
starting a, blacklist; for finding fur
ther cause for liquor suspensions;
for placing more restrictions upon
applicant for beer and wine licenses;
restricting radio liquor ads; for stern
rules on liquor advertising In ' news
papers and eliminating women's pic
tures in ads," Mrs. May wrote.
She charges that 75 per cent of all
Crimea are caused by liquor, and
commended the state parent-teachers
association for urging enforcement
of liquor laws.
E
The billowing big top of Russell
Bros, circus pitched here yesterday
brought to Medford residents the
never-falling excitement of circus en
tertainments. .
Outstanding among the stars was
Buddy, the highly -educated sea-Uon,
who not only received vociferous ap
plause but consistently led the cheer
ing himself with much barking and
flapping of fins as he successfully
completed each maneuver.
Numerous and varied aerial and
trapeze performances, climaxed by the
presentation of Bob Fisher and his
Five Fearless Flyers, provided enough
gasps to satisfy the most Jaded thrill
seeker. All traditional trappings of the glit
tering circus were Included, from tow
ering elephants to trained poodles
with a number of extra . flourishes
thrown in. Dancing horses enlivened
the arena as part of the colorful
show.
Adding a sentimental touch were
two tiny lion cubs whose freckled
heads peering between bars of their
mother's cage attracted a large crowd.
Represents Farmers
SALEM, July 28. (JP) Governor
Martin designated today George W.
Potts, Jefferson flax grower and pres
ident of the Farmers' Union, as the
state's representative to the seven
state department of agriculture . re
gional conference at Salt Lake City
August 3.
4
Closing time for Too Late to Clas
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Use Mail Tribune want ads.
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STATE BUILDINGS
PORTLAND. July 28. () White -house
and Church, Portland archi
tects, held the assignment to design
proposed additions to the state capl
tol buildings today.
The Portland firm waa designated
over four other Portland firms by the
c a p 1 1 o 1. construction commission,
which 'voted to retain the designers
of the main capltol building to as
sure uniformity.
The firm must complete' plans by
November 1 for a single NEA building
at a cost of from $800,000 to $700,000,
to house the state library and addi
tional office space, which, will be re
dlverted to library uses when addi
tional buildings are erected.
The commission authorised a fee of
8 per cent of the total cost, less about
$900 already paid the 'firm for plana
already submitted.
The Portland firm was picked after
Trowbridge and Livingstone and Fran
cis Kelly of New York, declined the
assignment. The award provided that
the New York architects serve as con
sultants. The alte for the new building was
not definitely selected. T. Harry Ban
field of Portland was authorized to
purchase the Kay property and other
sections of a block adjoining the new
state house.
Ralph Moody, assistant attorney
general and commission counsel, as
sured the group that prospects of ob
taining a PWA grant covering 45 per
cent of the construction costs were
still favorable.
,
Deny Judge Long
Has Capital Call
WASHINGTON, July 28. (jP) Of
ficials of the department of Justice
denied reports current here that Don
ald E. Long, Judge of the Multnomah
county, Oregon, court of domestic re
lations, had been summoned to Wash
ington regarding his possible appoint
ment as federal Judge in Oregon.
Others recently mentioned for the
post Include Robert Rankin, Port
land, law partner of Eraklne Wood,
brother of Representative Nan Honey
man; Vern Dusenberry, Portland; Mi&a
Cella Gavin, The Dalles, and Carl
Donaugh, United States attorney for
Oregon.
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IKUiTUCKY ST ft A 10 MT BOURBON WHISKtY I
Mad Elizabethan Styles
Faithfully Resurrected
For Shakespeare Fiesta
(By Frances E. Hardy.)
"Oh. Mercy God) What masqulng
stuff 1 here? What's thlsf A
sleeve? Tis like a deml-cannon.
What! Up and down, carv'd like an
apple-tart? Here's snip and nip and
cut and sltsh and slash . . ." says
Petruchlo in The Taming of the
Shrew, upon being shown Kate's new
dress. Well, men have been saying
Just that sort of thing for centuries
concerning the clothing of women,
but at no time In history have their
words been more Justified, Judging
by the gowns of the time; or more
unjustified, Judging by their own ap
parel, than In the Elizabethan period.
For during that most lavish perl"d
styles for both men and women ran
riot. Experimentation waa encour
aged, and, of course, many of these
experiments wore unsuccessful from
the point of view of beauty, but the
grotesque became Just as fashionable
aa the graceful, so there la an odd
combination of the sublime and the
ridiculous in the costumes of the
neriod.
93 Authentic Costumes.
Under the direction of Art Di
rector Lots M. Bowmer, the Eliza
bethan wardrobe used for the annual
Oregon Shakespearean Festivals now
numbers 93 costumes, authentic to
the period. Mrs. Bowmer is assisted
In making them by the theater work
shop class at ' the Normal school.
Whta they are trying to do with coe
tumlng Is to suggest the Elizabethan
pageantry and pomp of the clothing
and Jewelry, using aa much variety
of costume detail as possible and
still conforming to the play In which
they are worn. When you attend
the plays this year, between the dates
of August 2 and 7. you will no doubt
notice many of the fashions explain
ed In this article.
Perhaps the strangest character-
iatlo of the dress of the period was
international! ty. Early In Elizabeth's
reign Insularity In costume was lost
to such an extent that there were
mixed nationalities In the various
parts of one costume. Shakespeare
makes allusion to this in Portia's
speech In The Merchant of Venice:
"How oddly he la suited 1 I think
be bought bis doublet In Italy, his
round hose in France, hta bonnet in
Germany and his behavior every
where. Exaggeration Keynote.
The keynote of fashion seems to
have been exaggeration In line. Ruffs
were popular in this period, ranging
from the very small to those that
stood out 18 Inches from the neck
and were supported on wire frames
called ptckadlla. These ruffs, how
ever, were worn mostly by men of the
court who led comfortably Inactive
lives. The men who rode to the
hounds and made duelling a pastime
wore collars which turned back.,
, At this time starch was introduced
Into England by a lady from the
continent. But the practice was held
in 111 repute and it was called the
"Devil's mixture.' Nevertheless, v-
eager were they to keep the Import- j
ed . cambric ruffs fine and stiff and i
their own heavily embroidered bod
ices welt stiffened, that great court
ladles paid as much as four or five
pounds for the seoret of starching.
Exaggeration of line by use of puff
ings and farthingales wss a necessity
in the time of Elizabeth.
Farthingale Trouble.
At one time the farthingales In the
skirts of some court ladles were so
large that a group of these ladles
became stuck In a door and so were
late to certain court festivities. After
this, by order of the court, farthin
gales were cut down to a less awk
ward size.
There were many types of theso
contrivances designed to accentuate
the size of the hips. There was the
side type, like two round baskets
upside down and tied one at each
aide. There waa the bolster type, a
sausage-like padding which tied low
about the waist. , The cart-whdl
type, a peplum-ltke metal contrivance
which fastened around the waist, and
over the edge of which the skirt fell
like a lampshade, And then the
Spanish farthingale which consisted
of a hoop at the bottom of the skirt.
AU these were designed to distort the
figure In some way. and It was the
practice to try varying these styles
Just enough to get a distortion Just
mue aurerent from that of any
other lady.
Men Followed Styles.
Puffing which occurred In women's
clothes as well as the men's weie
stuffed with rags and bran. The
men's trunks, round hose and sleeves
were puffed to exaggerate round front
line, called a peoscod doublet, which
was designed to make their stomachs
appear huge, it la an historic fact
that at one time tvats In parliament
had to bo enlarged to accommodate
the puffs.
Another strange distortion of shape
sought by the women, was the flat
line in front from the neck-line to
well below the waist. This effect wna
created by the use of an Instrument
of fashionable torture called the
stomacher a heavy steel frame which
flattened out the bust and atoms'-li
and ended In a low point. These
were covered with lovely materials
and were fashionable in the extreme.
At one time four velvet stomachers,
trimmed In bands of gold, were pre
sented as a gift to Queen Elizabeth.
Epaulets Favored.
' Aa If these things were not enough,
both men and women wore huge ep
aulets: the queen approved heartllj
of the high -backed lace collars
brought to England from the con
tinent, for ladiea of the court; wom
en'a sleeves were puffed out like
"demt -cannons," and some of theee
were worn with an extra sleeve of
lovely material, which fell clear to
the floor and was purely for decora
tive purposes. It became fashionable
for unmarried women to wear a low-
cut bodice and the married women
a high neckline.
The "sllsh and slash" that Petru
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BOURBON
BLENDED STRAIGHT WHISKIES
STRAIGHT B OURHON! WHISKEY
iuknitm-tm
chlo speaks of above are explained by
twq theories which may be legendary
or may be true. The first of these is
that the men took great pride In
sword fighting, and during the course
of several duels would get many
slashes In the rich materials of their
costumes. Proud of these evidences
of their gallantry and bravery, they
preserved these slashes in the cos
tume which eventually became well
cut up. In order that they might
show, silk of contrasting color wa
worn underneath and was puffed out
through the slashings. Eventually this
effect became a fed and clothing was
designed with these curious cuts.
The other theory Is that the upper
classes were so lavish in their cos
tuming, and spent such sums of mon
ey on clothing that the courtiers and
court ladles were severely criticised
by the lower classes, and in order to
mollify the latter they cut c lashings
into their garments.
Capes for Gentlemen
Capea of various fullnesses, mostly
knee length wore worn by the gentle
men of the period, some with false
sleeves for ornamentation.
Silk stockings were introduced into
England In 1561 when Elizabeth was
presented with a pair of black silk
knitted ones. She never afterward
wore cotton or cloth hose. And In 1599
the first knitting machine was per
fected so that knit hose became more
practical.
Men's hate were of the wildest de
signs. There were hats pointed and
conical, flat beret types, tall stove
pipe effects, hats with accordion
crowns, all lavishly feathered The
hat band was very significant at this
time. If a high official of the court
wore a gold hat band, immediately
others of less station wore a gold hat
band too.
The ladles' hats caused lota of talk
for they were amusing and purely
decorative little things that sat high
on the huge hair-dresses worn by the
ladiea of the time.
Hair Dress Important
Elaborate hair dress and the use
of false hair, and colored wigs (an
burn being the favorite) character
ized the women of the period.
Jewelry waa an important item of
dress, with pearls the favorite adorn
ment. Pearls were worn In the hair,
on the gowns, in earrings, and they
ranged from the tiniest of pearls to
the largest obtainable. The men wore
a single pearl earring In one ear. .
Dieted for Pallor
Evidence that cosmetics were In use
In that era Is found In the records
of condemnation for the use of make
up, especially Hp paint that came off.
The ladles were so Intent on a beau
teous pallor that they would eat
things that would upset their diges
tive systems and so create pallor, the
BRAND
mm
yellowish tones being the most pop
ular.
A man who could not grow a beard,
during the Elizabethan period, was a
tragic character indeed. For beards
were a necessity. There were spade ;
beards, pointed beards, thick beards,
and thin beards, together with a
small, well-trimmed mustache. Early
in the period the beards were worn
up to the sideburns, but later were
shaved down so thst only chin whis
kers and mustache remained.
Cotton Choice Material
At the time cotton was considered
a very choice material. It is Interesting
to note that calico, imported from In
dia, was very expensive end waa used
for trimming detail in sleeves.
Because cottons dye more beauti
fully and appear lovelier under tights,
they are used by Mrs. Bowmer and
her staff In creating the costumes.
They are dyed and painted to repre
sent the rich old materials, and have
the advantage of being more durable.
It Is also true that a better synchron
ization of color is possible by use of
cotton materials, which are dyed Just
before they are made up. ,
(This Information was obtained
from an Interview with Lois M. Bow
mer, art director of the Oregon Shake
spearean Festival.)
Co-op Dairies Hike
Union Drivers Pay
PORTLAND. July 28. P Agree
ments between the Dairy and Ice
Cream Drivers union and ten dairy
co-operatives provide for higher wages
and other concessions for 300 em
ployes, W. M. Balsam, secretary of the
Portland union local, said.
The cooperatives, said to represent
about 6,000 farmer producers, include
the Central Oregon Cooperative
creamery, Redmond: the Eugene
Farmers' creamery, Eugene: the Mon
mouth Cooperative creamery, Mon
mouth; Wallowa County Creamery as
sociation, Wallowa; Umatilla Cooper-
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Governor Ponders
Protection Plea
SALEM, July 38. (JF) Governor
Martin said today he would make no
decision until next week as to wheth
er he would provide police protection
for American Federation of Labor
workers who Intend to return to work
next week at the Stlmaon Lumber
Co. at Oaston, near Forest Grove.
He said the F.FL workers, who
charged Committee for Industrial Or
ganization workers threatened ft
"bloody affair" if the A.F.L. members
return to work, have not yet receiv
ed their union charter.
The plant has been closed nine
weeks.
BIRTHS
Born to Mr. and Mrs. Herman
Dressier of 331 Edwards street a girl
weighing seven pounds and four
ounces In Sacred Heart hospital this
morning, Wednesday, July 28. Mother
and baby were progressing splendidly
this afternoon, hospital attendant
said.
ARMSTRONG FLATTENS
BENNY BASS IN FOURTH
PHILADELPHIA, July 28. (UP)
Henry Armstrong, hard-punching Hoi
lywood negro, put an end to the come
back of Philadelphia's Benny Bass last
night when be knocked out the for
mer featherweight champion In the)
fourth round of a scheduled 10-round
bout at Baker bowl.
Closing time for Too Late to Cl
slfy Ads Is 1:30 p. m.
Use Mall Tribune want ads.
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