NAPLES
OUR COMIC SECTION
2
0
D
Our Pet Peeve
Macaroni Factory
Prpnri by tti National Oeocraphl
NArLES, Ituly's largest south
era city, cannot boart the
architectural beauty o( the
northern cities, bat Its peo
ple, whether rich or poor, are strik
ingly beautiful physically. From the
storied heights that sweep In mag
nificent amphltlieater around the bril
liant bay the old city struggles down
ward In a picturesque buildle of densely-packed
houses and other buildings,
tortuous streets full of color and but
bling with the nervous activity of the
South, black canyons of rtone stairs,
often slippery with damp and dirt,
across which the teeming bouses gos
sip and quarrel In neighborly wise.
Nowhere are flsherfolk more pictur
esque In bablt and costume; nowhere
Is there so salty a dialect, spiced with
such quaint and startling phrases and
exclamations. Bore and brown of leg.
dressed in ragged, parti-colored mot
ley, stont canvas band about eacb
sinewy body for hauling Id the net
without cutting the hands to pieces,
they bring ashore their shimmering
silver quarry right along the widest,
finest promenade In the city the
handsome Via Caracciolo. Across that
broad street the charming Villa Na
tional, not house, bat public park,
wholly conventional in dertgn, con
tains an aquarium which may fairly
be considered the most remarkable in
the world for both the variety and In
terest of its finny and monstrous ex
hibits and the thoroughness of Its
scientific work. To it many of the
great universities of the world con
tribute annually for the privilege of
sending special Investigators in (oo
logy. . The commercial activity of this sec
ond reaport of Italy dings close
about the skirts of the enormous royal
palace 800 feet long on the bay side
nd 03 feet high and the naval basin
and dockyard. Every smell and sound
of t thriving seaport may be smellea
and heard, multiplied generously; ev
ery flag seen on the ships that ride
at anchor near the stone wharves.
On the streets men of every race
mingle tongues and costumes and man
nerr; Babel Itself was only, mildly
confused compared with this Jumble of
Kaples; and throughout all the thron
pluy the street musician, the macs
ronl eater that is trade, and a sat
isfying one, apparently the piratic
cabman, the guide, and the baggnge
smasher all seeking whom they may
plunder with a gracious twinkle of
humid bluck eyes.
8trt 8inaer Are Numerous.
Street singing Is an especially Nea
politan Institution, and when fur the
first time one bears beneath bis win
dow the more often than not off-key
versions of the rnappy, lilting. Inex
pressibly Infectious Neapolitan songs.
he Is enchanted, and throws pennies
freely. After week or so of it as
a stesdy diet, day and night, he In
clines much more toward heavy
crockery I
The entire Neapolitan littoral Is vol
cnnlc, from Vesuvius on the east to
the storied tufa heights of Cumae on
the west. Between Cumae's ruins and
Naples lie those famed and mystic
I'hlegraean fields of our school days,
which nobody remembers anything
about. They have always been a the
ater of tremendous volcanic activity,
but the disturbances here have no con
nection, curiously enough, with Vesu
vlus; also, the two areas are wholly
different In geological character and
formation.
The spongy nature of the rock of
the I'hlegraean fields allowed the In
ternal stesm and gases to escape with
relatively little resistance at numer
ous points; so, lnstad of one tre
mendous peak being formed, as in the
case of Vesuvius, many little craters
wart the ground. Thirteen still exist,
among them Solfntara, bellowing oul
a vaporous combination of sulphur
liydrogen, and Ft earn, and producing
startling little special eruptions when
teased with a lighted stick; drled-up
Lake Agnuno, with Its famous, or In
famous, "Dog Grotto," where about 18
Inches of warm, bluish, foetid car
bonic acid gas snuffs out torches even
more quickly than It used to the poor
dogs kept there Tor show purposes;
and number Lake Avernue, In ancient
times surrounded by dense forests and
dark traditions, one of which declared
no bird could fly across It because of
its poisonous exhalations.
The Cumuean Sybil was supposed to
Inhabit gloomy cavern In the south
3.
In Naples.
bank. Her room and others In the
rock are probably part of the remark
able harbor works built by the Em
peror Augustus. In this same region
is the Monte Nuovo, 400 feet high,
thrown up In three days in lo33.
Dominated by Vesuvius.
On the east Vesuvius dominates the
whole splendid region. He Is the
Cyclops standing, blind and massive
and treacherous. In the midst of his
rich vineyards, olive groves, and vege
table gardens; for, though he rpreads
destruction In his blind rages, the fact
Is that this entire plana is the mar
velously fertile soil that disintegrated
lava and volcanic ashes make. It
bears huge crops, far greater anl
Oner than ordinary good soil can pro
duce. Among other things. It yields
the grapes whose spicy juices are so
precious their wine Is termed Lacrima
Crlstl Tears of Christ
After the great eruption of A. D. 79
there were occasional eruptions which
varied In intensity, until 1500, when
the volcano became quiescent The
crater walls grew up thick with trees
and scrub, while cattle and wild boars
roamed the grassy plain Inside all
but an ominous lower level of a-hes
and pools of hot, gaseous water. Then,
in December of 1G31, the whole in
terior was blown violently out, and
1S.00O people are said to have per
ished. Since then Vesuvius has never
been entirely quiet
It was horrible hot mud that over
whelmed fashionable Uerculaneum in
79, belched from the crater as torrents
of steam, boiling water, and scoriae.
Uerculaneum is a rich and tempting
bait to the archeologlsts, for from a
single one of the ruins came most of
those exquisite bronzes In the Naples
museum, and 8.000 rolls of papyrus,
part of the owner's private library.
What a contrast is Pompeii, de
stroyed at the same time, but by
ashes 1 Though these gradually hard
ened Into something like cement, they
are much more easily removed than
the stone at Uerculaneum. and most of
what we know of the details of snclent
Latin life we have learned from the
stark, scarred, roofless lower stories
spread out before us In deathly pan
orama within the old city walls.
Stabis and Capri.
Where the pretty little modern wa
tering place of Castellammare dl Sta
bla, with its cooling sea baths and
strong mineral waters, lies snugly In a
little bight on the neck of the Sor
rentlne peninsula, Stablae once stood.
It Is ont of the very loveliest parts
of Italy, region of tumbled bills
clothed with luxuriant groves of orange
and lemon, whose golden fruit adds
luster to the gleaming foliage. Entic
ing roads of milky white wind and
wind, now between hlgh-wslled grove
snd vineyard; now along open, akyey
heights, with the blue sea as back
ground hundreds of feet below, and
the beetling cliff rising straight ne-
hlnd ; now beside villa gardens, where
every brilliant color on natures
palette items to have been poured out
with prodigal fullness. The air Is
perfumed, the skies are sort ana
balmy, the roads superb.
Capri, great, twin-humped camel
of an Island, kneels In the blue just
off the tip of the peninsula. From the
sway-backed huddle of white, pluk.
blue, cream, and drub houses along the
large harbor, up the breakneck road
to the fascinating town nestling among
the hills, white-roofed and Moorish,
and on, atlll higher, by the winding
road or up the neorly perpendicular
flights of rock stairs, which furrow
th frowning crag with their sharp
zigzag outlines, to Aoacapri, SOU feet
or so above, every step of the way
breathes the pride and splendor and
degradation of the Island's greater
days.
Here a cyclopean mass of shattered
masonry In the warm emerald water
tells of a Roman emperor's bath ; yon
dr on a chlmneyllke cliff the sinister
ruins of a stout cartle keep whispers
of ancient garrisons and pirates, not
armed with automatic rifles or high
powered artillery; end here, overlook
Ing the rea, the vast ruins of vllls
recull "that hulry old gout" Tlberlui
and his wastrel voluptuousness thai
turned fair Cuprl Into siityrdom.
Capri today Is richly dowered foi
sightseer, artist hlrtorlun, antiquary
and geologist On every hand ar
shaded walks and sequestered bower
In the thick groves of orange am
lemon, laurel and myrtle; wild hack
grounds of tumbled rock; titanic rlf
In the crest, Into which the sea ha
thrust long. Insidious blue fingers.
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FORCE
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Those Poor Freshmen!
Proving Figure Aren't Fool-proof
No more Heartburn
Forcorrectlnaover-ocUUty.nor
mulblng dlneatlon and quickly
relieving bulchlns.gm.aoumess,
heartburn, nousea nnd other dl
gestivedisordcra.Sufo. Pleasant
Hormallf Di$-tto a4 (
SuHtttn (As Dnalh
BCLIrAN
Hot water
Sure Relief
Bell-ans
FOR INDIGESTION
t3 AND 73i WCKAGES EVERYWHERE
Ot'll I.INIIV" CM. I.ln.lb.tih'1 llMUllful
Oalo l'hulu llh lll.lHli'l Hls'llr, ltl
III II nll It dllrJ. Iln oulir tii
SulUhl fi.r (rnilu. W. K.IT. IIS l'r
Kaw,NwurS. Antnll. SiMWiUlprI
EndaCold
r In 1 Dayl n
Actqukkly In a cold. It may lead to
grippe or no. llreakunaoiM wIthlr
twenty-lour hours, mix a wuiaoii
Combines tlte four great rtuuln-
menta, Stops tlie cold in a f
mm lh tiwl, mm ih Hill S
ntir nMfin. Ort rd tw V lAn
HILL'S Cold
U- XI PAKKKK'S
itVjSAJ HAIR BALSAM
noamoN snAMrK-i.uj tnt m m
cmnvtiua nli iukft llir Hum. kUj
kri.iriaii4aiir. onubirmil M
auu, UlKul ClvmkW W uf La, l'Ucbu(M, M. I.
Have Burbank Topi
lli-ard on the strwt:
"Who's that girl over there nest
that automobile with a red bat on 7"
"I don't see do automobile with a
red bst on."
rvinvermflon la the mind's Imar
The BABY
Why do so many, many bablea of to
day escape all the little fretful Slls
and Infantile ailments that used to
worry mothers through the duy, and
keep them up half tire nlghtt
If you don't know the answer, yoo
haven't discovered pure, harmless Caa.
torla. It Is sweet to the taste, and
sweet in the little stomach. And Its
gr-ntle Influence arems felt all through
the tiny system. Not even a distaste
ful dose ot castor oil does so much
good.
Fletcher's Cantoris Is purely vegv
table, so yon may glra It freely, at
first sign of colic ; or constipation ; or
diarrhea. Or those many times when
yoo Just don't know what is the mat
tor. For real sickness, call the doe
tor, always. At other times, a few
drops of Fletcher's Csstorls.
The doctor often tells you to do Just
that; and always says Fletcher's.
Other preparations may be Just as
jure, Just as fret from dungerous
drugs, but Why experiment? Ilnsldes,
the book on care and fending of babies
that comes with Fletcher's Castorla Is
worth Its weight In gold I
Children Cry for
1
dr. Stafford's.
J rr TAD
A I VP
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