The Bulletin. (Bend, OR) 1963-current, June 24, 2021, Page 55, Image 55

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    Th u r s day, Ju n e 24, 2021 • Th e Bu LLeTIn
GO! MAGAZINE • PAGE 13
FOOD
TRUCKS
& CARTS
p.14
bendbulletin.com/goeat
Continued from previous page
Devan and Kate Dunn took over the re-
sort in 2015 as they were looking to leave
the Willamette Valley and start a business
in Bend. With over a dozen cabins, 20-plus
RV sites and nearby camping at South Twin
Lake and other campgrounds, you can make
it a weekend getaway. It’s one of the first
lakes you encounter driving from the south
on South Century Drive, and one of the first
to open at the start of the fishing season in
April. The two small lakes are perfect for
fishing, kayaking and paddleboarding.
Seasonal Chef David Anderson has con-
tinued with offerings popular with locals,
including prime rib dinner on Saturday
nights. The food is focused on basic home-
made meals — from spaghetti and meatballs
to barbecue ribs or fish and chips. Diners
can enjoy eating outside on the paver patio
or under the trees accompanied by opportu-
nistic barn swallows and chipmunks. While
the lovely view of the lake through the trees
is best outdoors, the wood-paneled simple
restaurant has large windows for those who
prefer to sit indoors. This year, a bar has
been added indoors and will have seating as
soon as restaurants are fully open.
A friend and I drove down late one after-
noon. We arrived at 3:45 and were informed
by our friendly server that we could look at
the menu but couldn’t order food until af-
ter 4 p.m. We chose a few lunch items and a
dinner entree.
Since it was Thursday and I couldn’t order
the prime rib, the shaved prime rib sandwich
seemed like the next best thing. This is one of
those sandwiches that I wanted to savor each
bite. Each was filled with a generous portion
of thinly shaved, impossibly tender meat cov-
ered in melted cheese. The flavor was height-
ened by creamy horseradish that was spread
thick enough to taste, but not overwhelm, on
a soft hoagie bun. It was all balanced by a pile
of sweet caramelized onions. If the sandwich
is this good, I’m going to have to go back and
try the prime rib dinner.
We shared a half house salad. It was very
fresh, with a base of cut dark green leafy
lettuce and romaine. Thinly sliced radishes
yellow and red grape tomatoes sat atop the
greens mixed with raw white onions, juli-
enned carrot strips, and large croutons. It
was complete and satisfying.
The fish and chips basket was a bit of a
disappointment. Instead of chips, we opted
for onion rings. The tempura-type bread-
ing on the onion rings was a good fit, as
the sweet onion flavor balanced the fried
coating. The same breading on the halibut
fish didn’t work as well. The fish had been
Outdoor dining is offered at Twin Lakes Resort.
frozen as I would expect. When cooked, it
lost most of its moisture, and the breading
added to its dryness. It was served with a
choice of tartar or cocktail sauce (we opted
for both). Perhaps some vinegar might have
created an illusion of juiciness. As it was, we
didn’t finish the fish.
Although I grabbed the spaghetti and
meatballs dinner entree to go, I made sure to
taste it as soon as it was served. It comes with
two thick pieces of garlic bread. While there
wasn’t anything extraordinary about the pasta
or marinara sauce, it was nonetheless very sat-
isfying. It tasted homemade, like something
my mother might have cooked for me. The
meatballs were light and loaded with flavor
from Italian spices and had a good amount
of pepper to add punch. This would be the
perfect meal after a long hike or hours of pad-
dling on the lake. It was good on its own, but
I bet if I were hungry after a lot of activity, it
would boost the satisfaction level tenfold.
I returned on the weekend to try breakfast
that turned out to be one of the better break-
fasts I’ve had in quite a while. The restau-
rant serves breakfast from 8 to 10:30 a.m. on
Saturday and Sunday. Owner Devan Dunn
told me that they might open during the
week if there is a demand. I arrived before
9 a.m., with the added benefit of finding a
good parking spot that would make it easy
to launch my paddleboard after I ate. The
Twin Lakes Resort Restaurant
The restaurant hours are 11 a.m. to 7 p.m.
Monday-Friday and 8 a.m. to 7 p.m. Saturday
and Sunday.
Twin Lakes Resort is about 45 minutes
southwest of Bend, and 25 minutes west of
La Pine. The main resort is located on the
shores of South Twin Lake. The physical ad-
dress is 11200 S. Century Drive in La Pine,
but don’t trust Google Maps.
For more information: 541-382-6432 or
twinlakesresort.net
menu runs the gambit from a classic break-
fast and chicken fried steak and eggs to cre-
ative recipes that include a veggie scramble,
avocado toast, a breakfast croissant and a
breakfast burrito.
Because I wasn’t able to decide between
the Eggs Benedict and the Marionberry
Griddlecakes, I tried both, and was im-
pressed. The Signature Eggs Benedict starts
with two eggs perfectly poached (their shape
suggested that they were cooked in a poach-
ing pan). A generous serving of thick-sliced
ham sat on a large Big Ed’s sourdough En-
glish muffin. It was all smothered in chipo-
tle hollandaise. The hollandaise was smooth
and an expert balance of butter and lemon.
The chipotle added some zest without being
too spicy. I chose the country potatoes with
grilled onions but asked to hold the green
pepper. Small squares of red-skinned po-
tatoes were crunchy on the edges and per-
fectly cooked and creamy inside.
The menu describes the Marionberry
Griddlecakes as three “fluffy buttermilk
pancakes served with our house-made mar-
ionberry syrup.” This is the perfect descrip-
tion, as the buttermilk griddlecakes were
very light, fluffy and lightly sweet. I was dis-
appointed that there were no Marionberries
cooked into the pancakes, nor bites of the
fruit in the syrup. Still, the light striping of
syrup added the fruit flavor. They were de-
lightful, and perfect fuel for my after break-
fast paddle.
Any breakfast menu item would likely live
up to its description. Even the fresh brewed
decaf coffee was excellent with no hint of
bitterness. A tourist at a neighboring ta-
ble had the prime rib hash and was raving
about how good it was.
If you are thinking of a beautiful spot to
enjoy a prime rib dinner, Twin Lakes resort
would be a great way to spend a warm Sum-
mer Saturday night with a lovely view. I’ve
found my place and expect to be a regular
this summer for an early morning Saturday
breakfast and a paddle with my pup before
the crowds arrive.
e
Reporter: barb@barbgonzalezphotography.com