The Bulletin. (Bend, OR) 1963-current, April 22, 2021, Page 55, Image 55

Below is the OCR text representation for this newspapers page. It is also available as plain text as well as XML.

    Thursday, april 22, 2021 • ThE BullETiN
GO! MAGAZINE • PAGE 13
FOOD
TRUCKS
& CARTS
p.14
bendbulletin.com/goeat
Continued from previous page
Blissful Spoon is a passion project for Miki
Bekkari and her husband, Kamal. As Kamal
is from Morocco and Miki worked in Beirut,
the two have a deep appreciation for food
from the Mediterranean — Italian, French,
Spanish, Moroccan regions and more. They
lived in Australia for a number of years with
corporate jobs but returned to the Northwest
three years ago to be near family.
I would never have guessed that this is the
first restaurant the Bekkaris have owned.
The service was attentive, friendly and pro-
fessional. The modern space is clean and
welcoming. Food was delivered at a good
pace, delays (at breakfast) were expressed
before I ordered. There was no need for any
apologies.
Blissful Spoon is open until 9 p.m. Thurs-
day through Saturday. It was the perfect
time to meet a friend for the Tapas small
plates. Everything on the menu was appeal-
ing. They recommend three Tapas plates
for every two people, but we opted to try a
wider variety.
The menu described the Seta Ajillo as “su-
per addictive.” These “garlic mushrooms”
were mushrooms satuéed in olive oil, garlic
and Spanish sherry vinegar. They were very
good, but my dining companion felt that
they would taste better “on something” like
a steak or chicken rather than on their own.
We then had the Shishito Peppers sautéed
in olive oil and tossed with coarse salt and
spices. It came with red pepper aioli. The
peppers had a hint of heat, but it was not too
spicy. A squeeze of lime cut through the oily
coating, and the salt mixture brought out
the smokiness of the peppers.
After the nibbles, we opted for more en-
tree-type tapas, starting with the Gambas
Pil Pil. A favorite Spanish tapa, gambas is
Spanish for shrimp. Pil Pil’s name comes
from the sizzling sound the shrimp and gar-
lic make when they hit the hot oil. Like the
Gambas I had in Spain, the shrimp were
tender and sweet, served in the lightest
sauce of tomato and garlic. Smoked paprika
and a hint of cumin added complexity and a
Mediterranean flavor. We were glad to have
fresh housemade bread for dipping to con-
tinue enjoying the sauce.
The night we dined, they substituted a ro-
tini puttanesca for the bolognese ragu. This
was not the typical tomato-based puttanesca
sauce. Instead, the tender spirals were coated
in olive oil with several olive varieties, ca-
pers, and blistered tomatoes. It was topped
with finely grated fresh parmesan. This
pasta was the kind of light Italian dish that
doesn’t weigh you down. It reminds me of
Gambas Pil Pil tapas are tender garlic shrimp with a hint of cumin and smoked paprika.
the pasta I had in Italy. Mikki later told me
that this was a “deconstructed puttanesca,”
and it was a recipe from an Italian friend.
The Galette du Chevre was my favorite.
Puff, flaky pastry squares were topped with
chevre. Caramelized onion, bacon jam and
a light balsamic glaze added savory and
sweetness that was lightened by the creamy
chevre cheese. It was served atop arugula
that enhanced the little pastries with a hint
of pepper. I ate all three little galettes.
We finished the meal by picking a couple
of dessert pastries from the case—a flourless
chocolate cake and a Friand. Both were glu-
ten-free, but you would never know it from
the flavor. Flourless chocolate cakes can
be chalky, dry, or like a ganache. This was
moist with a brownie-like flavor that main-
tained its cake texture.
The Friand was a cake in the shape of a
muffin. It’s made with blueberries and al-
mond flour for a sweet, nutty base. The
edges were slightly crunchy, the interior
moist and crumbly. My friend and I couldn’t
decide which dessert was our favorite.
On Sunday morning, I went back for
the weekend brunch. You can build an egg
breakfast plate or choose from breakfast or
lunch items. I was excited to try the Chak-
chouka. As I arrived when the restaurant
first opened (be sure to call to check hours
Details
Blissful Spoon
65 NW Newport Ave., Bend
blissfulspoon.com
541-241-8181
as it may not be correct on the internet), the
server informed me I would have to wait
for the Chakchouka to be ready. I got a glu-
ten-free cinnamon roll and French press
coffee while I waited. The cinnamon roll
was a little heavier and not as sticky as its
typical floured counterparts. I didn’t finish
it and warmed it the next day. I liked it bet-
ter when I reheated it as it brought out the
stickiness of the cinnamon and sweetness
from the glaze.
Chakchouka varies widely in preparation
and flavor depending on where the recipe
originates. The Blissful Spoon’s Chakchouka
comes from Kamal’s Moroccan family rec-
ipe. This is my favorite preparation. Two
free-range baked eggs are cradled in a base of
roasted red peppers and tomatoes. Chunky
tomatoes were chewy, giving it a good
mouthfeel. This version was harissa-forward.
That is, the sweet, smoky harissa spice was
detectable but not overpowering.
To get a complete picture of the brunch
food, I also offered a Jambon au Buerre
(buttered ham sandwich). This sandwich
was truly a blissful experience. The im-
ported French ham was delicately sweet
and savory. Warmed Brie cheese added rich
creaminess. All of the richness was balanced
with halved cornichons (small sweet pick-
les) and a hint of honey mustard on soft
house ciabatta. I savored every bite. All of
the bread choices can be substituted with
housemade gluten-free bread.
As I spoke with Mikki, Kamal brought
out a new dish to try. Sformata di Ricotta is
a small baked ricotta cheese dome served
with Italian parsley and arugula mix that is
topped with olive oil, preserved lemons, and
various olives. Alone the custardy ricotta
isn’t much, but when combined with the
lemon, peppery greens and variety of olives,
it becomes a harmony of flavors that play off
each other in a happy dance on your tongue.
Whether you go to Blissful Spoon to en-
joy their gluten-free offerings or to enjoy the
French and Mediterranean tapas, it’s likely
that your tastebuds will experience the bliss.
As COVID restrictions end, the Bekkaris
plan to build out the wine bar in the restau-
rant’s cellar. They expect to have it open by
next winter.
e e
Reporter: barb@barbgonzalezphotography.com