Marrying on Expectations Brings Woe to Many Thoughtless Couples By LAURA (Copyright, 1916.) "Oft expectation tails, and most oft there Where most It promises, and oft it hits Where hope Is coldest and despair most sits." , It seems strange to me how many young men and women of good sense are utterly lack ing in judgment when It comes to marrying. A man meets an attrac tive young woman, courts her as many weeka as his father gave years to his court ship, and off they go to get the holy knot tied which admits of no un tying. The young man may have but a meager Balary, but the bride Is sanguine that be cause Harry Is so mart he cannot help but succeed. Harry knows that his salary is hardly adequate to support two comfortably, but he has sanguine hopes that dad-tn-law will come to their rescue, provid ing his own father proves a bit stub born about helping out. Another weds on the haphazard be lief that his rich bachelor uncle is to A Few Smiles. Dad's Inquiry, Dad came to the city to visit his son a young man of fashion and stylo, whose coat was a very elaborate one, and so were his collar and tile. Said he: "Dad, you plainly can see It 1b true, how well 1 now prosper and t h r 1 v e." "Yes," aid the old man, I see that you do. But where Is the hack that you drive?1 Easy. "I see where a firm advertises BO as sorted hotel labelB for $1. You stick them on your suitcase and pose as a widely traveled man." "What If people ask you questions about the places you pretend to have TlBlted?" "Oh, you simply memorize the name of the principal hotel In each city and thoro Is nothing 'more you need to know." Hoplnj AgalnBt Hope. "Your wife is troubled with a pe culiar throat ailment," Bald the phy sician. "She must talk as little as possible." "Say, doctor," queried the anxious husband, "la there any possible chance cf its becoming chronic?" No Wonder. ' "Wow!" exclaimed the victim In the Chair, "that razor puIIb!" " 'Sense me, boss," snld the ton orinl artist as he paused to examine the piece of hardware, "Ah ows yoh all a pology. Dis am de razzer Ah wore f de ball las' night." Like Cures Like, "My heart Is filled with bitter ness," said the fair but ftckle maid. "What you neod: rejoined the young physician of the homeopathic school, "1b a big dose of quinine." An Honest Dealer. "Is that marble?" asked a customer, pointing to a small bust of Kentucky's famous Btatobjian. "No. sir," repllod the conscien tious dealer, "that's Clay." The Masculine View. Singleton Women seem to bo born with the bargain Instinct. Wederly That's right. My wife has Just reduced her age from thirty- Ave to twenty-nine. Collars Remain Low. In any well-thought-out scheme of dresB the collar Is of paramount Im portance. Last year It rose to unpre cedented eminence, threatening even to hide the face of the wearer from the gaze of an admiring world. But there are limits even to fashion, and this year s compromise has been ar rived at. While It points an upward way at the back and at either side the collar remains open in front, the intervening space across the neck be ing frequently bridged by a couple of narrow bands of silk or velvet fas tened by fancy studs. A novelty In neckwear Is the stole-end collar. Made of tulle or ribbon, or chiffon, or lace, tt fastens close and high round the throat and Is provided with long, flut tering ends reaching to the waist or below tt. I JEAN LIBBEY make him bis heir and that he can struggle along somehow until Uncle John's fortune comes to hand. Expec tancy gets a crashing blow when Uncle John brings home a wife himself. But there's his wife's Aunt Sally. She will not play them such a trick. Her fortune will come to aid them when they will be in the most need of it. Who can account for the whims of ancient aunts? Spinster Sally takes on a noV lease of life when a well-to-do widower commences to call upon her and bids fair to outlive the bride and groom and their children after them. In her case, expectations tremble in the balance. A woman who is not a man-hater can usually be induced to wed under the right ausplceB. Those who wed In the expectation of getting support from outside sources more often than not are forced to "sup sorrow with the spoon of grief," as an old philosopher has tersely sized up the situation and expressed himself thereupon, Rich old fathers-in-law may become bankrupt or, if widowers, wed again, which is quite as heavy a blow to an expectant son-in-law. Aunts and uncles have hobbles and pet charities. Brothers and Bisters prove that they are only Interested In looking out for No. 1. There's only one way to succeed and that is to roll up one's sleeves and hoe his own row paddle his own canoe vigorously against the tide and, as T. R. has knowingly phrased it, "Trust to Providence, but at the same time depend on yourself." Mother's Cook Book. Custards. There are no more wholesome des serts for both the young and old than various custards. The flavor and man ner of serving may be varied so that they seem at each appearance like Bomethlng new. Some like chocolate flavor, others are fond of caramel, while nutmeg, cinnamon and flavoring extracts make a variety of flavors. If a molded custard Is desired it must be rich in eggs, if a simple steamed or baked cup custard, two eggs with a pint of milk gives a smooth, nice consistency. One of the secrets of a smooth velvety custard is to cook It Just enough, and always over water or the cups set In water. A coarse cus tard that has separated into curds and whey la neither attractive nor whole some as the egg and albumen of the milk are both overcooked. Set the cups Into water and put into a moder ate oven, and when they are firm near ly to the center remove, for the heat in the custard will usually be sufficient to finish cooking It, after it has been removed If It is not taken from the water. Many fall In cooking custard because they forget that the egg and milk still cooks if left in the water bath even after taking from the oven. When making caramel it la well to re member that the custard needs sweet ening besides the caramel, as brown ing sugar destroys some of its sweet ness. Round Steak en Casserole. Place two pounds of round steak on a board, Beason with salt and pepper and pound a cupful of flour or more into it turning on each side and using a meat pounder or the edge of a sau cer. Whon the flour Is all used cut Into serving Blzed pieces, put Into the casserole, adding Just enough water to cover the bottom, cover finely chopped onion, place the cover over and bake three hours. Add water occasionally. If nocessary. By browning the meat In a little hot fat the flavor of the dish is changed and adds variety. The meat will be tender and there will be a delicious gravy. Lamb Broth With Barley and Vege tables. Soak a third of a cupful of barley In a cupful or more of water over night; set to cook early the next morning, pouring over the barloy and water a quart of boiling water; let cook on an asbestos mat and add wa ter as neoded. Half an hour before dinner, add one-fourth of a cupful each of carrots cut In cubes, onion in shreds, celery In bits, and a table- spoonful of finely minced parsley. Let cook until the vegetables are done add two quarts of lnmb broth with salt and pepper to season. Add a half a cupful of ripe olives to fricasseed chicken and note the im provement In flavor. Hit or Miss. The goodness of some people Is ex ceedlngly tiresome. Analogy Is merely a mothod of con vincing without proof. A man's shoes may get tight from taking water, but he doesnt. If the donkey were king of the brute creation more men might truthfully boast of royal blood. One writer says that Satan's fall was probably due to his having accident ally slipped on a peal of thunder. It takes the wasp to make a lazy man get a move on himself. All it has to do Is back up against him and push, The average man does Just as many queer things when he isn't In love as when he is, but they are not Quite so conspicuous. GAY COLORS BANNED UNIFORMS OF SOLDIERS ARE NO LONGER CON8PICUOU8. Elaborate Costumes That Were Worn by Combatants of the Last Two Centuries Are No Longer Seen on the Battlefield. The soldier's dress has been simpli fied to bare necessities. It was other wise in the old times. The military regulations of the eighteenth and the greater part of the nineteenth centu ries furnish one long record of altera tions of costume, of solemn injunc tions as to laces, loops, frogs, buttons, facings, epaulets, "wings," and what not. The dressing cf the soldier's hair was a special object of concern. Un til the end of the eighteenth century the hair was an elaborate arrange ment of grease and powder. Three shillings per man was the allowance in 1794 for these two toilet adjuncts, and the cost to the country four shil lings four 1 pence for pipe-clay and whiting with which to furbish up his white breeches and leather appur tenances. To make up for this out lay he was expected to make shift with the renewal of only half of his waistcoat the fore part the hind part having to be made out of that of the preceding yearl So ran the regulations of 1783. In 1795 powder was discontinued by the non-coms and the rank and file, but it was still the regulation for officers. When the Twenty-ninth now the Worcestershire one of the trim mest regiments In the army, was sta tioned at Weymouth In 1797 an order was Issued directing that the hair was to bo dressed "with one curl on each side; the toupee turned and not too long; the club to be tied high and to be more broad at the top than at the bottom; the rosette to be all ribband and not more than eight inches in di ameter, the ribband and rosette to be perfectly black and put on after pow dering.'' The Grenadiers and light infantry officers were to have their hair dressed 'the same as the men, excepting their side locks, which may come down bo as to cover the open part of the ear, but never lower, and must be frizzed so as not to blow about." Queues were worn until 1808. The soldier's hat has been the sub ject of continual experiment and change, from the picturesque hat of 1686, with its broad brim turned up on one Bide and ornamented with white ribbon, to the mean looking Brodertck cap. In 1751 the 'three cornered cocked hat was in favor; then came the imposing miter cap, converting the wearer into a sort of miniature pope; and this was fol lowed by a bearskin of a similar shape. In 1778 light infantry wore leather caps almost as small as skull caps, with a large round peak. The officer's hat of 1798 was a most elabo rate and expensive affair, ornamented with the finest black ostrich feathers, with a standup feather of red and black. The shako, the most hideous hat ever contrived, .commenced its long reign In 1800, when it supplanted the cocked hat. Originally it was of lacquered felt, with a peak, a large brass plate in front and a red and black tuft on the crown rising from a small black cockade; and after many variations It disappeared In 1878, when the cork helmet became the regulation hat, In Its turn to be su perseded by the khaki cap, which, all things considered, Is about the best headgear yet dovlsed. London Globe. Opportunity for Americans. It is reported to Washington from Pekh.g by Commercial Attache Julian H. Arnold that an American bank Is needed in China if American trade is to be extended. He declares that there are splendid chances in China today for Amcricen capital, and that never In the history of China have the Chinese been better disposed to Amer ica and things American. Mr. Arnold says that there are numerous chances for Americans to establish industrial plantB, "China offering the best field In the world for cotton manufac turing." There are tens of thousands of niiloa of railroads to be built; there are tramways, telephone Hues, elec tric plants, glassmaking establish ments, oil mills, and flour mills to be erected, while there are rich mineral deposits to be mined and native prod ucts to bo exported. Costa Rlcan Industry. The decline' of the banana Industry in Costa Rica for several yeara past has becomo very noticeable and its effects are Btrongly felt in the busi ness life of the country, for Costa Rica formerly led In the production of bananas. Plantations have become af fected by an incurable disease, and as a result the largest growing and ship ping company has found It more prof itable to cultivate new plantations in other countries, building new wharves and constructing new railways, than to attempt to stamp out the disease, Tho banana business is therefore gradually leaving Costa Rica. How Double Windows Save Coal, Experiments show that when fitted with doublo windows an equable tem perature of 70 degrees can be main tained with tho samo amount of coal formerly required to maintain a tem perature of 60 degrees. It is estimated that the cost of fitting the lower story of a house with double windows can bo paid for in five winters by the sar in e in onaL PUTS THE INTELLECT FIRST Educator Asserts That Its Training Is of More Importance Than It That of the Body. Commenting on the theory, now bo popular, that educators should concen trate on the training of hands rather than the training of minds, if the young persons of our land are to grow Into useful men and women, Mary Leal HarkneBS, writing in the Atlan tic, gives it as her opinion that "it is a tremendous fallacy that the pos sessor of only the trained hand can hope with any well-fcunded confidence to be included in that desirable com pany which Is both interesting and in terested. 'If you could persuade every wom an to sweep a floor properly, I doubt much if she could still be guaranteed an agreeable companion for a rainy Sunday," continues the writer. "If you could teach every 'white wing' in any city to remove the dirt of the streets in the most dustless and sani tary manner known to science, I still question whether you would wish him to come to your library for an eve ning of uplifting conversation. And he would be equally lacking in re sources for self-entertainment in his unemployed hours. "If there Is anything beneath the stars more pitiable than the elderly man or woman with no intellec tual resources from which to draw occupation and interest, I have not yet seen it. On the other hand, there is nothing which so effectively robs the prospect of old age of its terrors as the Bight of the scholarly wearer of whitened hair which crowns a head still vigorous and young through the happy preservative agency of a trained and much-used intellect "No mechanical process can guar antee to us an interesting life, or Insure us against boredom. But Just because it ia something more than a mechanical process a college educa tion of the right sort comes nearer doing this than any other agency we know certainly nearer than any drill in cow-milking or scientific cooking. Its value to us and to the future of our country is beyond estimation. If the time ever comes when 'vital' is taken to be synonymous with 'lucra tive;' when the life of the mind and the training of the mind are set be low those of the body; when intelli gence, as a means to a full and sat isfying life, is superseded by prophy laxis and hygiene then we may well wish that we had listened to a wiser teacher." Servant Problem Solved. Just to show how lucky are those parts of France which the Germans have overrun with fire and sword, an Ingenious German press agent has in vented the following story, the scene of which Is laid in what is left of a once smiling village in the north of France. A worthy dame whose house has survived the gunnery practice of the kaiser's artillerymen possibly be cause of Its remoteness irom me quaint old village church, now a heap of ruins Is talking to another of her species, presumably equally fortunate in having a roof over her graying head. "You've no notion," says the first dame, "how clean and In what perfect order everything is In our house. I never in all my born days saw the Dlace so sole and span." The Becond dame nods to show her natural and proper Interest In this bit of housewifely gossip. "I'm so glad, my dear!" says she, "that at last you've got a really good servant." "Servant!" exclaims the first dame with Gallic vivacity. "Who said serv ant? It's the dear German soldiers that's billeted in the house. They done the cleaning!" New York Eve ning Post. Guncotton as Bait. A part of the equipment of some cavalrymen Just returned to France from a few days' furlough In England Is a fishing-rod and Beveral varieties of floats. But there are others who prefer to fish for the pot In more sud den and ruthless manner. Their meth od is very different They operate in those parts of the canals where roach and dace are thought not always with reason to be numerous. The final attack, as in all modern aggres sive operations, is opened by the ex penditure of explosives. But In this case the expenditure is not great. A small wad of guncotton neatly ex ploded under water is enough to ac count for all the fish within a consid erable radius; and a few moments after the discharge the undersides of the roach and dace appear on the surface. The Idea was suggested by the accidental havoc wrought among the fish by a certain Jack Johnson. The Lion of St. Mark's. The famous winged Lion of St. Mark, symbol cf the old Venetian re public, which was endangered by the Austrian air attack on the city of the lagoens, is one of the most composite monuments in existence. It is of bronze with eyes of white agates though Venetians tell you they are diamonds and it is believed to have ornamented some ancient Assyrian palace before It came to Venice and was raised on the top of a column in the Square of St. Mark. The whole figure, as it now stands, belongs to many epochs, renovated again and again, and the only portion of the original animal remaining is the head except the crown and part of the body. When last renovated in 1S91 the whole lion was found to be a mass of disconnected fragments bound together with iron bands. Afternoon Gown 1 1 A photograph sometimes fails to picture that which makes a pleasing Impression in a gown. This occurs when blending of colors, or contrasts In the texture of materials used, pro duce effects which the lens cannot re produce. Blue and white striped silk Is made up with blue chiffon in the frock pictured. The particular shade of blue used makes a fine contrast with white, and' the two seem blended in ornaments of silver braid and silver tassels used for trimming the bodice. The photograph does not convey the value of the colors. The skirt consists of two flounces of the striped silk, corded at their lower edges, set on to a full skirt of chiffon which terminates at the upper edge of the lower flounce. There la in underbodice with full sleeves, of the chiffon. Shaped pieces of silk are corded at their edges with a small cord covered with bias strips of silk and set on to the underbodice. The bodice is given a Jacket effect by pieces at each side set on at the waist line under the ornaments of silver braid. They form, with the back and Favorites on the In the moving picture show of fash Ions the small hat continues to be pro jected upon the screen for a public that shows no sign of lessening al legiance to It. It has been a star in the world of millinery, made of every Known millinery material and trimmed with every sort of trimming. Now there is nothing further to do but to begin all over again at the beginning, and the beginning is a small shape of Btraw or silk braid trimmed with rib bon. Three smart models in which ribbon amounts to more than an adornment are shown here. In the first one a shape of milan hemp has a narrow brim that droops over the brow and rolls up at the sides and back. It is wide enough to shade the eyes. A handsome faille ribbon lies in a cas cade over the crown. At the front little apples made of straw are set In varnished leaves. From the same position at the back three loops are posed. One long and two short loops are held upright by a small wire run in a tuck, which is sewed In length wise along the center of the ribbon. A narrow braid Is sewed along the tuck on the outside of each loop. In the second hat a wide satin sash rtbbon is folded about a wire frame to form the side crown. The top of the shape is covered with a small plaque of straw braid. Narrow braid forms a binding for the edgewire and xtsnds in rows all about the hat to Mil I Si V 1 ""iffiJiP , ' " 3 of Two Materials front, a Bhort peplum. The collar and cuffs are of white chiffon edged with bias bands of the striped silk. There is an odd and orig inal feature in the shaped ruffle of Bilk set on at the elbows. This gown suggests a practical way for remodeling a silk dress that is too antiquated in style to be worn without altering. Four yards of chiffon or georgette crepe will make the under bodice and short skirt that serve as the foundation. Where the amount of silk is not sufficient to make two flounces one flounce may be set on to the short chiffon skirt without gather ing. In this case the upper edge of the silk flounce is cut into shallow tabs, or battlement pattern, bound with silk-covered cord and stitched to the chiffon. The skirt of the old gown is converted into a flounce for the new one. Out of the bodice and sleeves the silk for draping the new bodice of chiffon is supplied. Screen of Fashion the top crown. It outlines the brim where it Joins the crown. Two long loops are supported by wire and mounted at the back. They are fin ished with a knot and short ends which rest on the hair. In the third hat, as in that Just de scribed, ribbon forms a part of the hape and makes the trimming. It Is made, over a wire frame, of moire rib bon and silk braid. Strips of ribbon overlap to cover the top part of the shape, and the lower half Is covered with rows of braid. Loops of ribbon spring from the crown, and a small straw ornament is applied at the left side. Leather Baskets. Morocco leather in a heavy grade la used to make collapsible baskets. The sides should be about two inches deep, and when placed to form the basket are fastened at the corners with metal clasps. The handle Is run through two leather slides on the Inside, and falls flat when the basket la closed. It can be made of covered cardboard as well as of leather. Patent Leather Motifs. Patent leather motifs form a decora tive scheme on some ot the gabardine suit. , . . jV II