WOMEN'S AND STORY PAGE
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The crisp days of autumn spur
women up to the consideration o( their
needs, or desires, In furs, and the fur
Tiers' shop is soon caught In Its an
nual whirlwind of business. In order
to anticipate the rush, the stores and
shops show advance models In August
and advertise special values. A good
many sales are made then, but not
enough to relieve the pressure later.
But styles become established, at any
rate, and certain furs become leaders,
quite often making a quick advance In
price.
For the present season all furs are
fashionable. Skunk or martin stands
close to the head, with mink In the
same class. Opoemim fur, especially
as a trimming, has sprung into a sud
den vogue; fox of every variety Is
selling freely and good Hudson seal
brings a higher price than ever.
Martin and mink are among the
"hard" furs. That Is, they will wear
longer than many others, and thoy
bring a higher price than the less
durable, or "soft" furs. Hut this Is not
in invariable rule, for ' certain rare
species of fox fur bring fabulous
prices.
Neckpieces are moderate in width
and length and many of them are de
House Gown of
The little house gown of two ma
terials Is causing a great, deal of at
tention Just now. Every couturlere
seems Intent upon rendering it more
and mora attractive, and fresh essays
ore made every day to add distinctive
touches. The original design which
is our small contribution to the galere,
while following certain accepted de
crees, la yet quite a distinctive little
scheme. The favorite alliance of vol
vot and Georgette Is the selected ex
pression, and one that never falls to
carry conviction. Favor are about
divided ao far as the skirt is con
cerned, the velvet, however, taking a
certain assertive position In front of
the skirt The little sleeveless cor
kage li slightly Indeterminate, a square
lice being taken out beneath the
arm and suggesting that an under
ftodlca of the Georgette la von.
Thf sleeve art clearly of the la
Inn nnl
jiv -
gz t
cidedly short, worn about the neck
like a high choker collar, with a
short end hanging at the back and
one at the Bide. A straight neckpiece
Is worn close up about the neck with
ends crossing and both hanging at
the back.
Muffs are worn In several sizes, but
fashion clings to the larger ones.
Thoy are round or barrel-Bhaped and
a few fancy shapes and patterns have
boon introduced.
A fine set of mink Is shown In the
picture. It is a conservative design,
as It should be in such choice furs,
for fine furs are somewhat independ
ent of the whims of fashion.
When furs are to be selected an
expert Judge of quality will be needed,
since there are so many grades of the
same kind. Their value is consider
ably Influenced by fashion, but the
rarest furs sable, mink, ermine and
rare fox constantly grow more valu
able.
China yearly exports 8,000 leopard
skins.
Two Materials
ter, and noto should be taken of their
fashioning, the cut allowing of a de
cided droop at the back of the wrists,
the fullness bolng subsequently drawn
up on cords, with two ruitles as a fin
ish. Another interesting decorative
detail Is silver or dull gold union, both
of which are very much In fuvor Just
now; while the vest, w4th its pic
turesque roll back collar, delicately
plcot edged, is supported by a high
roll collar of the velvet. And this
Is but one of similar Ideas that run
Into hundreds. As the cold weather
advances, these dresses will be worn
more than ever as a balance to the
weight of a fur coat And thoy have
unquestionably come prepared to sub
side Into a settled acceptance.
'-" - 1 " lirtniffltfltn i i tV
QUEBEC STRUCTURE 6URPA8SE3
ANY EVER ERECTED.
Only the Famous Firth of Forth
Bridge In Scotland, Constructed In
the Same Manner, Approaches
It In Magnitude.
In its general dimensions as well as
In the enormous size and weight of the
structural members composing It, the
Quebec bridge, now In an advanced
stage of construction, surpasses any
other structure of the kind ever erect
ed, says Popular Mechanics. The one
bridge structure in the world that ap
proaches it In magnitude is the fa
mous Firth of Forth bridge In Scot
land, the main channel span of which
Is nearly one hundred feet shorter
than that of the Quebec bridge. Both
structures are of the cantilever type.
The channel span of the Quebec
bridge, measured between centers of
towers, Is 1,800 feet. The design and
fabrication of the Iteel for the struc
ture therefore presented engineering
problems for which no precedents ex
isted, and the first attempt to build
the bridge made by a private company,
resulted in a collapse of the structure
in which many lives were lost. Fol
lowing that catastrophe, the Dominion
government took over the work, and
a year later undertook the construc
tion of the bridge. The present bridge
Is on the same site as the original
structure, but owing to an Increase of
twenty-one feet In the width between
trusses and to a considerable Increase
In the weight of the superstructure,
new piers were necessary, and these
were built Immediately south of, and
adjacent to, the original piers. The
two main piers alone contain approxi
mately 60,000 cubic yards of masonry
and cost In tho neighborhood of 11,
600,000. One of these piers goes to
a depth of sixty feet below the bed of
the river, and the other to a depth of
eighty feet. . . .
In the erection of the bridge the an
chor arms, which lie between the main
piers and the shore, were constructed
on steel falsework, while the canti
lever arms are being built out over the
river without falsework by the canti
lever method. The 640-fcot suspended
truss to connect the cantilever arms
will be built on shore, floated Into po
sition on pontoons, and then raised by
powerful Jacks and connected with the
cantilevers. For the erection of the
heavy bridge members two traveling
cranes, one working on each side of
the river, are used. Each traveler
weighs about one thousand tons, and
Is equipped with two hoisting ma
chines each capable of lifting one hun
dred tons. The principal feature of
the travelers is a tower that stands
ZOO feet above the floor of the bridge.
Supported on top of the tower are
cranes through which the lifting lines
are worked. All the machinery on
the travelers Is electrically operated.
To avoid bringing uneven stresses on
the partly completed structure, simi
lar members on the two sides of the
bridge are lifted by the cranes and
erected simultaneously. The total
length of the bridge between abut
ments Is 3,239 feet. As now planned,
it should be possible for trains to cross
the bridge by the end of the year 1918.
Aluminum In War.
Austria and Germany use more
aluminum for war purposes than all
the other warring nations combined.
It has been known, In fact, that Ger
many has for some years been collect
ing and storing the metal for war
uses.
The great majority of the drinking
mugs, cans and cups of the German
soldier are made of the light metal.
The frames for Zeppelins and the
fuses for shells are made from alu
minum. One of the difficulties the Gor
mans have had to face Is the short
age of copper necessary for the rings
around shells. Many of the German
shells are now provided with alumin
um rings.
Although aluminum does make a
substitute, even In cartridges as well
as shells and fuses. It Is not so good
as copper. The French authorities ex
perimented with It some years ago for
artillery purposes, but rejected It
The Germans are using it in such
large quantities becauso they're forced
to do so on account of the shortage
of copper.
Chase's Valuation.
William M. Chase figured amusingly
In a transaction concerning himself
and an unartlstlc congressman who
owns a bad painting.
"Isn't that grand?" the latter re
marked when pointing out his pur
chase. "A great bargain, too. Got it
tor four hundred dollars, and William
M. Chase says It Is worth ten thousand
dollars."
A friend of the painter heard this
statement and took it to Chase, who
smilingly explained:
"He cornered me one day and want
ed me to fix a value on it, but 1 told
htm I couldn't do It He then came at
me with a question I couldn't dodge:
"'Well, Mr. Chase, how much would
you charge to paint a picture like
thatt'
"1 assured blm most earnestly that
I wouldn't paint one like it for teg
thousand dollars. '
Snooping 8plntters.
"Queer how nervous elderly maiden
ladles get."
i "Isn't it? Why, I have an aunt who
It she lived near a river would look un
der the bed of It every night before
Jfolng to sleep." Boelon Transcript
Inventor of the Microphone Telle
How He Came to Think About
the Scheme.
In the Popular Science Monthly and
World's Advance, William Dubilier,
the American electrical engineer who
was called to Europe by one of the
allied governments to devise a system
of harbor defense against hostile sub
marines, describes the experiments
which led to the adoption of a remark
able microphone submarine detector.
Although it Is impossible to see a
deeply submerged submarine, Mr. Du
bilier believed that there was a method
of detecting its exact location In the
water. In describing his experiments,
he says:
"Suppose that a submarine gave
forth a sound of some kind, wculd it
not be possible to devise some form
of apparatus by which it could be
heard? That was the starting idea of
the experiments that I conducted for
the allied government.
"At once the beating of the propel
lers of a submarine suggests itself. It
is not characteristic enough. Motor
boats, steamships and other power
driven vessels have propellers, and al
though their period of vibration Is dif
ferent from that of any other engine
driven craft, some other sound must
be sought something as distinctive
as the call of a robin or the neighing
of a horse, something that by no pos
sible chance can be mistaken for an
other sound.
"I found what I sought in the weird,
shrill hum of a submarine. Others had
heard the hum long before I began my
experiments. It was taken for engine
vibration. But It Is much too high in
pitch for that, as I found by actual
tests.
"I soon convinced myself that the
fine, shrill, almost singing note that
can be heard when the Diesel engines
are cut off and the submarine is trav
eling under power derived from her
storage batteries is due entirely to her
electric motors. The sound Is unmis
takable. Step into any central station
where electric power Is generated to
light a city and you will hear the hum
of a submarine. There Is no difference
to the ear. To devise a means of de
tecting this sound at great distances
was the object of my experimenting.
"The microphone at once suggested
Itself as a suitable Instrument, and
with its use, a submarine c'juld be
heard at a distance of fifty miles."
At the Telephone.
The printed injunction: "Don't Jig
gle the hook," Is seen in conspicuous
places all over New York city, having
been placed by the telephone company
in order that its patrons may learn
that the way to get the best telephone
service out of the system is to be sane
and gentle with the apparatus. There
are people who do not know that if
"central" does not respond promptly
and properly the way to attract her at
tention is to move the receiver hook
up and down slowly, very slowly. If
such is the hurried one's conduct a
tiny electric lamp Is flashed before
the face of the operator. It the hook
Is jiggled rapidly there Is no lamp
lighted at all and the operator goes
about her work serenely Indifferent
to the perturbed state of the person at
the other end of the wire. By seeing
a woman at a telephone when Bhe is
In a hurry and at other times, too
one can easily gain an Insight into
her character. The querulous, cranky
woman flying to pieces at the phone is
frequently seen. She should have
"Don't Jiggle the hook" framed over
the telephone stand.
Hats as Peace Tokens.
Here is a beautiful hospital story
recorded by Rev,. William Sellers In
his new book, "With Our Fighting
Men." A colonel's wife was making
the round of a military ward when she
noticed a wounded soldier toying with
a German helmet
"Well," she said to the soldier. "I
suppose that means that you killed
your man?"
"Well, naw," quietly responded the
soldier. "You see it was like this: He
lay on the field pretty near me with
an awfu' bad wound and bleedin'
away somethln' terrible. I was loeln"
a lot of blood, too, fra my leg, but I
managed to crawl up to him and bound
him up as well as I could, and he did
the same for me. Nawthln' of coorse
was said between us. I knew no Ger
man and the lthor man not a word o'
English, so when he'd done, not seeln'
hoo else tae thunk him, I Just smiled,
and by way of token handed him my
Glengarry, and he smiled back and
give me his helmet." Youth's Com
panion. Bees Get 3usy on Train.
Returning from the Oregon hills,
after spondlng several days in the
mountains hunting, Mr. and Mrs. Ed
win Bender brought, In addition to
considerable game, a pasteboard box
with a swarm of bees they captured
In the woods, a Wllllacisport (I'a.)
dispatch to the Philadelphia Inquirer
states.
On account of the cold the bees were
easily bandied, but when they were
taken into the steam-heated passen
ger coach of a Northern Central train
at Trout Run they began to get busy,
and in a few minutes emerged from
numerous punctures that had been
made to give them air.
In less time than It takes to tell, the
passengers had all fled to the next
coach, and the bees held the fort for
some time. Finally the conductor put
on a pair of gloves, made a dash into
the car and, raising the window, tossed
the box of bees out Into the night but
not before he had been caressed on
the nose by a hot-footed one.
GREATEST FREE PORT
DISTINCTION GIVEN TO THE CITY
OF HAMBURG.
Has Historic Background of the High
est Interest, Going Back for Cen
turies Prof. Kennedy Tells
Origin of Scheme.
The most impressive example of
what a free port can be and what Jt
Is apt to promote is Hamburg, Ger
many. It is conspicuously foremost
and this despite the fact that Bremen
is also a free port. These are the
fatherland's biggest shipping centers,
and Germany is a high-tariff country,
and therefore in this economic particu
lar much like the United States. The
free port has a historical background
dating to the days when cities stood
apart from nations and in their inde
pendence held their gates open to the
traffic of the world. Thus, as members
of the Hanseatic league, Hamburg and
Bremen flourished commercially more
than five centuries ago. They man
aged in this, fashion to stimulate trade
otherwise endangered by the imposi
tions levied by petty nobles.
As Professor Kennedy expresses It:
"When Hamburg, Bremen and Lubeck
Joined the German empire in 1871 they
retained their status as free cities.
They belonged politically to the em
pire, hut they were outside the Ger
man Customs union. In order to bring
these cities into the German customs
confederation Bismarck proposed a
plan which gave origin to what we
now know as free ports. The cities
were taken into the customs union but
the harbors were left free.
"When Hamburg entered the German
Customs union in 1888 she Inaugurated
the administration of her free port,
which for five years previous had been
in process of construction. The free
port Is situated on the River Elbe, di
rectly abutting the city, which is 65
miles from the sea, and takes in the
entire river for a stretch of five miles
from Altona to Elbe bridge. The land
area comprised within this zone was
in 1883 occupied by 16,000 inhabitants,
who were evicted when the land was
condemned by the state. There is in
the free port a land area of 1,325 acres,
in addition to 1,370 acreB of water
area, all of which Is shut off from the
inland by means of a canal on the city
side of the harbor and by means of
floating palisades on the other side.
The entrances to the city and to the
upper and lower Elbe are guarded by
customs stations."
It Is therefore manifest that the free
port of Hamburg is an isolated area
capable of separate administration,
and the existence of floating palisades
and guarded entrances to the city
makes It clear that the free port Is
purposely Isolated so that dutiable
goods cannot be smuggled Into the mu
nicipality, while yet admitting every
facility of access, ease of handling and
preparation for reshlpment abroad
with minimum of red tape. In other
words, a free port Is primarily a halt
ing place in transit, and is an elabo
rated development of the bonded ware
house as we understand it here. i
New York Sun.
Facts About Furs.
Although a great number of popular
priced furs masquerade under names
that no actual animal claims as its
own, there is no particular secrecy
about it. One of the fur concerns, for
Instance, publishes a catalogue to In
form customers Just what they are
actually buying. Alaska bear, for ex
ample, is the best Minnesota raccoon,
colored a dark brown. Adelaide chin
chilla is the fur of a selected, soft
haired and delicately-colored Austra
lian opossum; French ermine is the
fur of the white hare of France; Bal
tlo fox Is the fur of a large hare of
northern Europe; Iceland white fox is
white Tibet lamb, combed until the
hair Is straight; Kamchatka fox is
the fur of the northern timber wolf;
Manchurlan fox Is the fur of a variety
of half-wild dog from Manchuria; Bal
tic lynx Is the large Belgian hare; Fin
land lynx Is a species of Australian
kangaroo; Siberian pony is seleoted
Russian calf skin; Hudson seal is
muskrat skins of selected quality; and
Inland seal is the skin of selected
French white bare.
Framing a Children's Code.
, The Missouri children's code com
mission appointed by Governor Major
has organized its work of codifying all
children's laws in the state, and of
drafting needed new laws to be intro
duced in the legislature of 1917. Most
of the work will be done at the state
university through the departments
of law, sociology and political science.
The entire commission of 21 members
has been divided into subcommittees
to handle various sections of the com
prehensive outline of work, modeled
on the general outline sent out by the
federal children's bureau. Consider
able help is expected from the data
the latter Is collecting on children's
laws throughout the United States.
The expenses of the commission will
be mot by voluntary contributions.
Rhodes E. Cave, Judge of the St Louis
Juvenile court. Is chairman, and Prof.
Manley O. Hudson, of the state nnl.
veralty, secretary.
Let Her Alone.
"I wish my wife understood baseball
bo that she could talk to me Intelli
gently on the subject I propose to
keep after ber until she learns."
"I think you are on tho wrong tack.
She doesn't expect you to understand
millinery." Louisville Courler-Jour
naL
HER POOR, PETTED HUSBAND
Wife's Solicitude for His Health, and
Her Own, Was Very Touch
ing, Indeed Yes.
The petted husband and his wife
were amiably discussing the advisa
bility of a trip to Palm Beach, In or
der that the wife of the petted hus
band could get back some of the
strength that, with her, wasn't so
latent as the distinguished physician
who called upon her some time dur
ing the petted husband's office hours
thought It ought to be.
"The only trouble, darling," said the
petted husband, "is this: that if you
should want me to go with you I
should have to leave my business Just
at the period when I am most needed
to make our profits large enough for
me to maintain you in the proud posi
tion to which you have been accus
tomed. "On the other hand, should I remain
behind, the first of the month will
come without your being here, and
the thought of opening all the bills
for things you have ordered but for
gotten to mention, without your moral
support, Is rather disconcerting."
"And I suppose," said the wife of
tho petted husband, "you have not
considered that if I should go alone
there would be no one, absolutely no
one, to see about my baggage, arrange
about the sleeping compartments and
hotel rooms and protect rr.e from be
ing Insulted by total strangers. I
should think, after our being married
all these years, you ought to feel pret
ty good about ny vtanting you to go,
anyway, and you would If you had a
spark of human feeling In you."
Thereupon the petted husband In
terviewed the tourist agencies, saw
the hotel representatives, made ar
rangements to stave off his creditors
and close up his business for six
weeks.
At Palm Beach the wife of the pet
ted husband remarked to a friend:
"Yes, I brought my petted husband
along. The poor man absolutely need
ed a change of scene." Life.
Unstable Moon.
The celebrated observatory at
Greenwich, the place from which we
reckon longitude, was founded by
Charles II In 1675, mainly for the pur
pose of Investigating the movements
of the moon In the Interests of naviga
tion. Although in the intervening two
and a half centuries astronomers have
worked at the problem, the moon has
not yet become entirely amenable
to their mathematics. The astronomer-royal
of Great Britain, In his re
port of the work at Greenwich during
the past year, calls attention to the In
creasing deviation between the cal
culated position of the moon in the
sky and its real position as shown by
the Greenwich observations. The de
viation has lately been growing in a
serious manner. The error last year
was more than twelve times as large
as the error twenty years ago, and the
average annual Increase during the
two decades has amounted to half a
second of arc in longitude. The rea
son that astronomers have failed in
getting exact results from calculations
based on dynamical laws of gravita
tion is possibly the existence of some
attractive force that they have not
yet discovered, although the result
may also be affected by the true shape
of the earth, which still awaits accu
rate determination. Youth's Compan
ion. Fumed Oak.
A good method of producing the pe
culiar dark brown of old oak is by
fumigation with liquid ammonia. The
wood Bhould be placed In a dark and
air-tight room, and half a pint or so of
ammonia poured into an open dish
placed upon the ground. The gas that
comes from the ammonia acts in a
wonderful manner upon the tannic
acid In the wood, and browns it so
deeply that a shaving or two may be
taken off without removing the color.
The depth of shade will depend upon
the quantity of ammonia used and the
time allowed for the operation. Other
methods may be used to obtain a sim
ilar result. Liquid ammonia may be
laid on the wood with a brush or rag,
and the color will deepen immediately.
Potash bichromate, dissolved in cold
water, will produce a similar effect
In Germany, the cabinet makers use
very strorg coffee for darkening oak.
To make It very dark, use iron filings
with a little sulphuric acid and water,
put on with a sponge, and allow it to
dry between each application, until the
right hue is reached.
Begin to See Daylight
The doctors may disagree over the
origin of pellagra (they disagree about
most things), but the theory of the
publio health service is reasonable
enough. We are largely what we eat
says the Boston Dally Advertiser. Dis
eases that once were fatal are now
treated absolutely by diet and treated
successfully, as all physicians agree.
Perhaps, In another generation, the
drug store will be a fcod shep. In
stead of paregoric cr castor oil, the
family doctor will prescribe orange
Juice or lettuce. Every child will know
the relative Importance of fats, pro
telds and carbohydrates. A new gen
eration will circulate pledges against
sugar acd pie crust Bvth have slain
their thousands and tens ct thousands,
and sugar has killed more Americans
than rattlesnakes ever did. Mxny a
man takes far more worry over the
lubricating oil be uses on his motor
car than on the fuel he shovels into
his dlgestlvo motor. - We call this a
clvillied age, but In the matter of food
and food frauds, we have Just beguq
emerging from the stone age.
MAKES HOME IN JAIL
ECCENTRIC CHARACTER IN WICH.
ITA, KANSAS.
In Return for His Board and Lodging
He Keeps the City Hall and Its
Environments Clean as
a Whistle.
Pat is an Irishman. Even Watson,
the dull-witted friend . of the great
Sherlock, wculd know that without
being Wd. Also he Is short, wearing
chin whiskers and stepping lively. He
is sixty-five, and industrious. And he
keeps the city hall and Its neighbor
hood In Wichita, Kan., clean as a
whistle without having any stipulated
salary, relates the New York Sun. All
Pat asks Is a chance to sleep inside
the city jail, and a bite to eat and a
bit of smoking tobacco.
From early morn until dewy eve,
with shovel, brush and broom, he op
erates upon the pavements. The al
leys about the neighboring buildings
are always spic and span. Nobody
told Pat to do the jab ani nobody can
prevent him from doing it. He Just
annexed it, and for this reason:
Pat Ryan used to live on a sand
boat on the Arkansas river. It was
the only hone he had. But someone
thought it his duty to object to Pat's
presence there and soon he was out
of a domicile. He looked about and
then his Irish wit came to the rescue.
He hit upon a scheme that worked out
all right. He simply walked Into the
city hall and took up his residence in
the jail adjoining.
He was not put under arrest. He
merely began to stay nights at the
jail and days he worked about the
building and the streets and alley
ways In the vicinity. The work he
does voluntarily for the city more
than pays for the food he consumes
and the bed under shelter which he
seems glad to get. His hobby is keep
ing things clean. No one has more
pride in a shining brass rail than
Pat. If he were a shoe artist he would
give so much time to a single pair
that he would prevent customers from
catching trains. "Why, he's more
corisclentir us by far than the chaps
who spend the money the citizens pay
in in taxes," say observers who have
watched Pat. At first they made Jokes
about the hobo; now they rather ad
mire him.
One day the rain was coning down
In sheets. Fat grabbed a shovel and
hustled for the door.
"Here," someone yelled, "you don't
want to get Into that tornado. You'll
catch your death."
"I'm going to let the water out ot
that alley," Pat called back, and out
he went
He came back soaked, but there
wasn't any overflow bothering mer
chants whose back doors opened
on the allay after that storm was
over.
After some weeks Pat has become
a sort of exhibit A in the city's coV
lection of curiosities.
Building Great Warship.
The new dreadnaught California, ta
be completed In February, will meas
ure 642 feet in length and for a few
months will be the largest craft In the
world. England is building one 800
feet long, which will probably be
launched next summer.
The California Is the first American
naval vessel to be built with its bow
curved aft below the water. The bows
of the older boats curved forward be
low the water, so that they formed
rams, which were formidable weapons.
They are obsolete now because the
high power of the modern naval guns
makes It impossible for war vessels to
come close enough together to ram
each other.
The armature of the California la
thicker than that of any other boat in
the world. She will have a speed of 21
knots an hour and can carry 1,058
men. The cost of the boat alone is
$7,000,000, but her equipment of guns
and ammunition will increase thf
value to tl5,000,000.
Game-Raising Farm.
Prom the first game farm in Minne
sota tables of epicures will h min.
.plied with pheasants and mallard
oucks within two years and possibly
within one year, if present hopes are
realized.
"We will raise ruffed grouse, prai
rie chickens, pheasants and ducks on
the farm," said superintendent of the
Game Protective league. "This Is only
a starter on the 'more game move
ment' More than a hundred citizens,
most of them farmers, will begin game
breeding next spring both for sporting
purposes and for the market.
"Every game bird raised and aold
In captivity helps to protect the
state's supply of wild game, and if
my plans work out Minnesota will
within a few years be the greatest
game-producing state in the Union."
Upside Down and Back Again.
A singular case of salvage has come
to light at Queenstown, Ireland, where
the Russian vessel Baltzar arrived In
tow, laden with timber from Gulf
Port, bound to Cork.
It appears that on September 27 the
Baltzar was damaged and turned tur
tle In the Atlantic, but, thanks to her
cargo ot tluber, still remained afloat.
She was towed bottom upwards Into
Berebaven, where a salvage contrac
tor (ot the vessel to float again In
ber original position, with her decka
upwards.
She was then towed to Queenstown,
whence she will preceed to Cork to
discharge ber cargo.