WOMEN'S AND STORY PAGE
Meant to Withstand
With little concession to the last
word In fashions these two severely
tailored suits present themselves to
those who know the strength of their
good style. They are suits made to
stand the stress of wear and weather
-and to make their owners look trim
and "well set up," rain or Bhlne.
The first suit la made of cravenetted
dark blue serge. The coat is straight,
with a little extra fullness at the sides
and back In the skirt portion by way
of recognition of the season's demands.
It fastens to one side with bone but
tons, and the revers, cuffs and pockets
are bound with silk braid. . r
The skirt is plain and moderately
wide, sloping outward from hip to hem.
, It is cut ankle length and has lapped
seams. Small bone buttons finish ths
' plain coat sleeves.
Such a suit Is not hurt by the rain
and returns from the cleaners as good
aa new.
In the second model the skirt Is
.widened by the introduction of three
The Brilliance
r
mmm
Those whose allegiance holds to the
small hat have been repaid by Its bril
liance as a millinery achievement this
season. Though dividing honors with
the wide-brimmed styles, the small hat
has been allowed greater latitude In
the matter of trimming, and Intricacy
baa marked Its draping. Even so, Its
trimming may be classed as simple
compared to that which has gone be
fore. But designers have spent their
ingenuity in finding odd poses for the
season'a odd trimmings and in the
management of drapery and lines.
Beautiful velvets In colors that are
an inspiration to the designers have
been used for making many of the
small bats, and velvet turbana may be
aid to predominate. But there are
others. A few handsome onea are en
tirely of feathers. Novelty bands and
fabrics, plush, metallic laces and fur
are all conspicuous in the composition
of the small bat
Two turbana in which velvet la used
re shown here and will serve to illus
trate what baa been said of the small
bat far this season. In the first one
Ingle piece of velvet covers the shape
bad forms a drapery at the left side.
aVbere the velvet is stretched smooth
v :
( Vf
Wear or Weather
plaits at each side, and trimmed with
a row of bone buttons set on the mid
dle plait. The coat Is a box model
with a single small slip pocket at one
side. It Is finished with machine stitch
ing and small bone buttons are used
for decorating it at the sides and on
the sleeves. A double row of larger
ones take care of the fastening of the
double-breasted front. The skirt is
worn shorter than shown In the picture
and is both more sensible and more
up to date when cut to reach a very
little below the shoe tops. .
Sewing Hint.
In darning damask, if threads are
drawn from one end of the material
and used for the purpose, the patched
place will scarcely be noticed. This
Is advisable when one has a very valu
able piece which has accidentally been
torn.
of Small Hats
1
,
iaarr
i
ly over the coronet an ornamental pat
tern in steel beads has been applied,
and where the velvet drapery is gath
ered In at the right a cabochon made
of the velvet finishes it. A similar
cabochon catches the velvet at the
back. These are the handwork of the
milliner.
The crown Is supported by a crino
line foundation and the hat finished
off with two fancy feathers made of os
trich flues.
The second hat is of hatters' plush,
with high straight orown and narrow
rolling brim. Bows of wide velvet rib
bon are daringly mounted at the front
and back of the top crown.
Just how eccentric the shape of a
turban may be, if ita designer under
stands the management of lines, is
shown In the third picture. A round
crown la surrounded on three sides by
a high curving brim, all covered
smoothly with black velvet A shape
so spirited and so simple demanda
trimming of the same aort and flnrl. it
In the graceful spray of paradise that
springs skyward from the crown.
is i
r If
isiif
i v r
ixnuwi vhuuc ur rnton nin. unMnui cn iulu di nuC If f uf MtVtK Lit DOWN TO KtAC
People Resllze Its Importance, and
Also the Necessity for Cultivation
of Proper Breathing.
The open air theory for the benefit
of tuberculosis is a comparatively re
cent thought. The story Is that Doc
tor Trudoau recognized that he had
this dread and common disease, and
grasped at the open air life as his last
and only hope. When be sought the
mountains near Saranao, determined
to live In the open air, his course was
viewed as suicidal. Fellow physicians
thought that excessive fear of death
had robbed him of his medical Judg
ment. All his friends looked for an
early end.
Doctor Trudeau not only regained
his health, but be gained a better
measure of health than be had ever
enjoyed before. Then he began to
send back to the cities for working-
men and working women, and cottages
were built out of the trees of the hills,
and an open air colony started. This
was the first In this country, and the
date was 1884. Ten years later be es
tablished the first American laboratory
for the study of consumption. In re
markable propaganda against the1
white plague undertaken in Detroit it
Is written; "So great a change has
come over the country In 80 years
that fresh air Is on the verge of be
coming popular. One of the most
noted of modern medical men, open
ing his comprehensive treatise on the
preservation of human efficiency and
health, begins with fresh air.
"Now, the common form of tubercu
losis Is the pulmonary form the form
which attacks the lungs. Lungs pre
suppose breathing, and breathing pre
supposes air. Tuberculosis belongs to
the class of Impure air diseases. Its
commonest method of infection la
through the breathing, its commonest
point of attack the organ used in
breathing. We don't breathe with the
nose; we breathe through it We
breathe with the lungs. The quality
of our breathing that is, the depth
and strength and fullness of it is
quite as important a factor in the his
tory of health or of tuberculosis
me quality oi me air which we
breathe,"
FAKER KNEW HUMAN NATURE
Btory That Shows the Old Law
Psychology la Still In Full
Operation.
of
Legend tells of a Hindu faker who
teemed to have a working knowledge
of practical psychology and made him
self rich selling plain wicker baskets
In the streets of Calcutta.
The peculiar virtue of the baskets,
he explained to the buyers, lay in the
fact that, if one filled his basket with
ordinary pebbles, placed himself In a
receptive attitude of mind, and stirred
them with a stick for an hour, each
and every pebble would be transmuted
Into a nugget of gold provided the
stirrer did not think of a hippopota
mus while stirring.
The baskets were sold, but the Idea
of a hippopotamus waa so firmly fixed
In the minds of all the purchasers that
uot one of them ever bad legitimate
grounds on which to demand his
money back.
Knew He'd Sean Her Before.
Three women met in a New York
elevated station. "Well, 1 declare,"
they all chorused. The last arrival
waa asked it she, too, was bound for
the shopping district the destination
of the other women. "No, indeed,"
he quickly replied. "I'm going to my
husband's office, tie just telephoned
me be had left an important letter at
home, and asked me to bring It to
him. He's the most absent-minded
man I ever met" "He Isn't any worse
than my husband," chimed in one of
the other women. ' "Doctor is so for
getful at tlmea that he frequently goes
off without his medicine folio." "Well,"
spoke up the third woman, "my bus
band beat's that John, aa you know,
is a traveling man. He has been away
a month this time. He came home the
other day and patted me on the check
and said. '1 believe I have seen you
before, little girl, at some place, at
sometime. What is your name?"
Candle Extinguisher.
It has been found that candles can
be fitted with attachments to extln
gulsh the light at a aet time. To de
termine the length of time it Is neces
sary to mark a candle of the size used
and time how long a certain length of
It will burn.
Then It Is sufficient to suspend a
mall metal dome or cap, to which a
string Is attached, directly over the
flame, and run the opposite end of the
string over nails or through screw
eyes, so that it can be tied around the
candle such a distance from the flame
end that the part between the flame
and the atrlng will be consumed in
the time desired for the light to burn.
When this point is reached the string
clips off the candle and the cap drops
on the flame.
Riddle of Nature.
Because I have stirred a few grains
of sand on the shore, am I in a posi
tion to know the depths of the ocean!
Life ha unfathomable secret Hu
man kuowledge will be erased from
the archives of the world before we
possess the last word that the gnat
has to aay to us. Scientifically, na
ture is a riddle without a definite so
lution to satisfy man's curiosity.
Hypothesis follows hypothesis; the
theoretical rubbish heap accumulates
and truth' ever eludes us. To know
how not to know might well be the
last word of wisdom. Henri Fa bra.
Shape of the Most Prominent Feature
of the Faoe Will Reveal Much
to Observer,
Nasography reveals the character,
habits and inclinations of people by I
simple inspection of noses. Accord-
Ing to the system, the nose should be
as long aa possible, as this Is sign
or merit, power and genius. Exam
plesNapoleon and Caesar, both of
whom had large noses. A straight
nose denotes a Just, serious and ener
getic mind; the Roman nose a pro
pensity for adventure, and a wide
nose with open nostrils is mark of
great sensuality. A cleft nose shows
benevolence It was the nose of St
Vincent de PauL
The curved fleshy nose is a mark
of domination and cruelty. Catharine
de Medici and Elizabeth of England
had noses of this kind. The curved
thin nose, on the contrary, Is a mark
of a brilliant mind, but vain and dis
posed to be ironical; It is the nose of
a dreamer, a poet, or a critic, if ths
line of the nose is re-entrant that Is,
If the nose Is turned up It denotes
that its owner has a weak mind, some
times coarse, and generally playful,
pleasant and frolicsome. A pale nose
denotes egotism, envy, heartlessness;
the quick, passionate, sanguine man
has a strongly-colored nose of uniform
shade.
GREAT FIELD FOR NOVELISTS
Industrial Life In America Should In
spire the Best Work of the
Best Novelists.
No strong hand has yet been laid
(In a literary sense) upon our indus
trial life. It haa-been pecked at and
trifled with, but never treated with
breadth of fullness. .
Here we fcave probably the most
striking social contrasts the world has
ever seen; racial mixtures of bewil
dering complexity, the whole flung
against impressive backgrounds and
lighted from a thousand angles. Penn
sylvania Is only slightly "spotted" on
the literary map, and yet between
Philadelphia and Pittsburgh nearly
every possible phase and condition of
life is represented.
Great passions are at work in the
fiery aisles of the steel mills that
would have kindled Doatoyefsky's
Imagination. A pillar of cloud by day
and of lire by night marks a limitless
field for the earnest flctionist A Bal
zac would find a thousand subjects
awaiting him in the streets of Wilkes-
Barrel Meredith Nicholson in the At
lantic Monthly.
Sensitive Measurement
Minute bendings of a steel bar three
feet long and three and one-half feet
in diameter are accurately measured
by a curious but very sensitive device
of the United States bureau of stand
ards. The bar, supported at each end,
has a small mirror fixed in the cen
ter, and above this is a frame holding
another mirror partially silvered. As
the light of a sodium burner la reflect
ed in each mirror the lower mirror
shows a Beries of black and yellow
concentric rings. A very small weight
even that of a pin, deflects the bar and
causes the circles to expand outward.
Each circle indicates a movement of
one hundred-thousandth of an inch,
the pressure of a finger, forming five
or more new circles, showing a bend
ing of one twenty-thousandth of an
inch.
Second Girl Wina Out
Wouldn't it Jar you it a man bor
rowed a hundred from you to get a
marriage license and buy some furni
ture for a flat and then went and
spent the hundred on his wedding
with another girl? It did a New York
girl, and her Intended husband, who
has a monicker as bad as a Russian
city, and who came near missing his
marriage to her rival. She had him
Jugged. But once behind the bars
the husband-to-be gave vent to a wild
outburst of passion. His plight
reached the stxond girl of his choice
and she made a house-to-house can
vass until she had raised the cold
cash to liberate him. And then they
were married. What's a little thing
like jail when it stands between a
determined matrlmoniallst and her in
tended? Looking on Both 8ldes.
Ths progress ot humanity depends
on two movements which must go on
side by side.
One Is the impulse toward change;
the other is the steady drag toward
stability.
To prevent a given social state from
petrification there must be constant
revolts, a continuous series of fresh
and 11 rely efforts to strike out new
paths.
But In order that a social state may
exist at all, the newer impulses must
be harmonized with the older struc
ture. Order is as necessary tor the world
as progress.
Dont Spill the Milk.
In almost every accident someone is
to blame. Let us then learn from our
own accidents Just where we might
have done better. Let us acknowledge
that the fault waa ours, and aet about
trying to make good in the future.
There is no use in blaming luck or
misfortune for our faults ot commis
sion or omission; and instead of cry
ing over the milk which was spilt let us
leant wherein we were wrong, so that
when next we carry milk it will not be
ipl.
Mr 1 v. r i
PROUD MOMENT FOR SPEEDER
Man Under Arrest Wanted Hla Friends
to Listen to Testimony of Police
man In Court.
"You are charged with speeding."
"Impossible, your honor!"
"The policeman whe arrested vou
says you were traveling at the rate
of 60 miles an hour."
"Indeed? I wish some of mv friends
were here.
"Haven't you money enough to nav
your fine?"
"Oh, yes. your honor. Thev have
made so many uncomplimentary re
marks about my car that it would be
a source of much satisfaction to me it
they could hear this policeman's tes
timony." . .
Too Painful.
"Did you visit Vesuvius the last time
you were in Italy?"
"No," replied the traveled man.
"Not Interested, eh?"
"That wasn't the reason. I knew
that if I saw so much steam entn?
to waste in Vesuvius the memory of
tne trouble i have every winter in ner
suading the janitor to heat my apart
ments suniclently would make me bit
ter."
Vexatioua.
'I Dresume every man has a llttla
Ananias club of bis own."
'No doubt. Still. I find it rath or
difficult to keep tab on the members
in mine."
"Yes?"
"Every now and then soma fnllnw
who has been a member of my Ana
nias club for years puts over a hard
luck story on me and I lend him
money."
The Right Ratio.
I suppose the world has need of
pessimists."
"No doubt. They are the leaven of
life, so to speak."
"I don't quite agree with your defi
nition, but by striking a happy me
dium between the snarls of pessimists
and the cheerful idiocy of optimists
one is enabled to appraise life at its
true value."
Dense Ignorance.
"If there la anything that makes
me tired it Is an egregious landlubber
finding fault with the United States
navy."
"I know the type. He's the sort of
fellow who thinks the captain's bridge
Is a private gangplank."
COLD-BLOODED.
Artist Say, I've got some of the
funniest pictures you ever saw.
Magazine Editor Really! Where
did you have them taken?
Perquisites.
"Will you leave office poorer than
When you entered It?"
"No," replied Senator Sorghum. "It
Is a mistake to say that a republic
Is ungrateful to its servants. A repub
Ho will loosen up all right If you
know how to convey a gentle remind
er when a tip is due."
But It Didnt
"That will do, Henry," said Mrs.
Twobble, coldly: "The yarn you are
telling me won't hold water."
"I wasn't trying to make It hold wa
ter, my love," replied Mr. Twobble,
somewhat peevishly. "I hoped It
would hold you for a while."
Valued Seclusion.
"Do you enjoy your magnificent new
library?" -
'Yes, replied Mr. Cumrox; "for a
while I didn't get much good out ot
it But you dont know what a nice,
quiet place It la to try out the latest
records on the phonograph." -
Easy to 8ee Why ths Practice Is In
jurious How Proper Breathing ;
Promotea Health.
I" i k
"1 never read without using a book
rest," said one well-known literary
woman. "I think It easier to adjust
a book to ths sight by its use. A book
rest can be raised higher than ths
level of the lap and the hands and
the wrists will not be wearied by the
strain of holding it higher than ths
knees.
"I never read in bed. I am thankful
to those, older and wiser than I, who
taught me that to read while reclining
was to overfill the blood vessels ot ths
eye and so cause a degree ot conges
tion in ths eye. If one is too tired to
sit straight I am convinced she is too
tired to read. She should rest in
the silence and darkness of her room."
In the very way a girl carries her
body when walking or sitting shs can
do good or harm to the prettlneas of
the neck and throat The chest must
always be held high, and this instinct
ively raises the head mora prettily.
The abdomen must be held in, and
since some lntaklng ot the breath is
required for this last muscular effort
the muscles ot the throat and chest
are at once benefited.
Mnscles, by the way, depend tre
mendously upon good breathing tor
health and firmness, so it a girl never
did anything more violent than pick
ing a rose, it she simply gives the
windmills of her lungs all ths good air
they need, ths blood will be fresh
ened and the muscles nourished air
most as well as if she played golf ev
ery day. The value of outdoor sports.
however playful, is in their action up
on the mind. ' : ,
PUT UP STRONG ARGUMENT
Kentucky Statesman's Unique Appeal
Tor Retention ef the Bounty on
. Faxes' Scalps.
A new angle is given the old yarns
about the parson and the chickens
and the necessity ot having the lat
ter on the table when the former ap
pears In the homes ot his parlshion
ers by the story, related In Case and
Comment ot the speech made by a
member ot the Kentucky legislature
agalnBt the repeal of the law for the
payment of a bounty on foxes' scalps.
The member came from the moun
tainous section ot the stats and bs
put his arguments this way:
"Do the gentlemen want to deprive
my constituents and ma ot the bene
fits of bearing the gospel preached?
We all are Methodists up my way.
and our preachers won't corns with
out wo can glvs 'em chickens.- We
can't raise chickens unless the foxes
are killed by somebody, that's sure;
and there ain't anybody that can af
ford to spend their time huntln' foxes
and get nothln' to pay for It
So, gentlemen, it yon repeal this
law yonll be depriving my constitu
ents of the benefits of hearin' the
gospel preached. That's the way it
looka to me. And we need the gos
pel."
The vote was againat the repeaL
Turkish School Children.
"Turkish children recite their les
sons all together in the old-fashioned
schools, and if you could hear them,
you wonld think that you had gone
into Wonderland with Alice, where
things wouldn't come straight' The
little girls go to school in groups, and
with them Is always an old servant
who carries all their books on what
looks for -all the world like a small
'clothes-tree. The boys go and come
in two long lines attended by their
teacher. They carry their own books
and wear long trousers and fezzes ex
actly like their fathers. Some of the
tiny girls carry their own little tables
and drawing-boards. In the gypsy vil
lage in Scutari the children learn their
lessons by songs in the street They
stand in a circle with a big girl in the
middle, and they get noisier and
holsier the more interested they
grow. Lindamlra Harbeson, in St
Nicholas.
Only a Collection.
Usually the holdup man's way ot
getting the coin from the belated
citizen is to put him to sleep with a
crack on the bean. But the other
night a New York Journeyman high
wayman adopted a different method.
He held up a preacher in a Harlem
Street and with the aid of repartee
and a gun made him come across with
Is roll. After the preacher had dug
down in his jeans and given his money
the highwayman he rebuked the
man tor adopting that way ot earning
living. "Can t help it brother," aald
the strong-arm man; "1 need the coin.
am only taking up a collection; you
can do the same, you know, and get
away with it twice as easy as I can,
Thanks for ths favor."
Judging a Man Properly.
When yon esteem a man why should
you survey him all wrapped and en
veloped? He then but ahoweth aa
those parts which are no whit his
own, and hideth those from ns by
which alone his worth is to be Judged.
It is the goodness of the sword you
seek after and not the worth of the
scabbard; for which peradveoturs
you would not glvs a farthing if it
want its lining. A man should be
Judged by himself and not by his
complements. What mind bath be?
Is it fair, capable and on polluted, and
happily provided with all her neces
sary parte? Is shs rich of her own
or of others' goods? Hath fortune
nothing ot hers to survey therein?
MoAtalga
HORSES THAT WERE JUMPERS
8oms Really Remarkable Feats on
Record That Are Without Doubt
Authentic
What distance and what height can
a horse Jump is a curious inquiry. It
the reader will carefully measure out
39 feet, an idea ot the horse's capao
Ity in this direction will be gathered,
remarks the London Times. Such a
distance a steeplechase borss called
Old Chandler is reported to have cov
ered at Warwick some years ago, and 1
there is mors than one apparently au
thentic record of a horse clearing
seven feet in height
Ths scene of one such exploit waa
at the Phoenix park. and the horse
was an animal descended from a fa
mous winner named Potsos, himself
called Turnip. The animal belonged
to Sir E. Crofton, and the duke ot
Richmond, then lord lieutenant of Ire
land, wagered 500 that seven feet
in height could not be cleared. A wall
of the requisite dimensions was built
and Turnip was ridden at it He did
what was asked of him in perfect
style, but it happened that his grace,
not knowing that the feat was ready
for performance, was not looking
when the Jump was made, but Turnip
was therefore ridden over it again,
not only successfully but easily.
The wall of Hyde park, opposite
Orosvenor place, six and a half feet
on the Inside, with a drop of eight
feet into the road beyond, has also .
been cleared.
HARD TO DEFINE VULGARITY
What One Generation Condemns An
other May Have Considered
Distinctly Proper.
There is nothing more difficult to
define than Vulgarity. It is often mere
ly something one dislikes in some
body's manner "of speech or behavior.
Webster's dictionary defines "vul
gar" in the modern sense as "lacking
cultivation or refinement; rustic, boor
lsh; also, offensive to good taste or
refined feelings; low, coarse, mean,
base."
And "vulgarity" it defines as "gross-
ness or clownlshness of manners or
language; , absence of refinement;
coarseness.
The half of these definitions might
safely be cast aside. It is absurd to
define ."vulgar" in the present sense
i "rustic; low, . . . mean, base."
When we say that anyone ia vulgar
we mean chiefly that he is, in Web
ster's words, "offensive to good taste,"
and that is about as near an explana
tion as ws can go.
As to what good taste is. who can
inform us? To say that it la the taste
ot the best people does not get us
much farther, tor we have then to dis
cover who are the best people. And
la it the best people who have ever
lived that we must follow, or the best
people who are living now? The best
people nowadays would consider it
vulgar to get drunk at table; but the
nest people of bygone tlmea were of
a different opinion.
Aid to Sleep.
There are two very simple but ef
fective remedies for that kind of sleep
lessness that comes from overwork or
nervous exhaustion. One is to have
the feet very warm. Put them against
a rubber bag filled with hot water. A
rubber bag is better than an earthen
bottle, as it will retain the heat for
hours. The second method is much
more simple. Discard the pillow, turn
over and He on the stomach with
hands clasped under the forehead to
lift the head a trifle. This will often
send one to sleep.
When you are tired and nervous a
good rubbing all over the body with
the lotion here given will be very rest
ful Lie quietly in bed after the rub
bing for half an hour and you will then
feel quite equal to taking up the daily
tasks again. Here is the lotion: Di
luted alcohol, six ounces; cologne wa
ter, six ounces; tannin, ten grains.
Nothing Too Hot
Chabert, the fire king, who was a
popular favorite in London many years
ago, claimed to be able to swallow
arsenio and other poisons with im
punity. Visitors to his entertainment
were requested to come provided with
phosphorus, prussic acid, arsenic and
oxalic acid, which, he proceeded to
consume before their eyes, taking an
antidote afterward which was sup
posed to neutralize -their effects.
Then, to show that he was as im
pervious to heat as to poison, he would
take a raw leg ot lamb Into an oven
heated to 220 degrees and remain in
side until the Joint was cooked, when
it was carved and handed around to
the audience. The performance con
cluded by Chabert rubbing a red-hot
shovel on his head and face and allow
ing anyone who wished to drop molten
sealing wax on his tongue and hands.
Professional Pot Boiling.
When a historian or biologist
spends part ot his time in coaching
or extension lecturing is order that
the rest ot it may be devoted to his
researches, these subsidiary functions
must obviously be classified under the
heading of potboiling.
He teaches In order that be may
have time and money for study.
The educational enthusiast on the
other hand, studies that he may teach;
be regards teaching as ths one thing
in the world which it is a privilege to
oe auowea to do, and therefore re
joices it he is permitted to give bis
didactic Impulses full play without
having to divert any of bis energies
into soma less fascinating pursuit,