Image provided by: Hood River County Library District; Hood River, OR
About The Maupin times. (Maupin, Or.) 1914-1930 | View Entire Issue (Dec. 17, 1915)
WOMEN'S AND STORY PAGE. i i ImMMCwrnv" - I'll J I ninirn All at once a liking for little boleros Is making itself felt in the specialty shops that deal in waists, and In the departments of the stores that deal In everything women want or Imagine thoy want. And the sup ply of small jackets that has sprung Into evidence Includes those made of lace, of net, of sheer fabrics, of silk and of yarns. A little jacket of batiste is shown In the picture. It Is designed to be worn over a light-colored evening Sown or afternoon gown, but for the purpose of bringing out the pattern It Is photographed over a dark street dress. It flts tbo figure rather snugly, with shaped underarm seams, and has a. high turn-over collar at the back. A very fine pnttorn In eyelet embroid ery trims the bottom, and a narrow odglng of filet laco Is stitched on all tho edges of tho jacket. Silk muslin, crepe de chine, Georg ette o.repo, and chiffon, as well as the tfcstKl gauBos, suggoBt themselves for . v The Goddess of Fashion appears to be taking a vacation, or perhaps she has abdicated; at any rate she Is is suing few edicts. We do not hour "thou shalt" or "thou shalt not," and are left to do as we please, with a world of new designs In hats and gowns to choose from. They Include many beautiful things. In the early season there was a universal vogue for the black velvet hat It Is a becoming ' thing, this black velvet hat, but when ntnety-niue out of ft hundred women wear It it becomes monotonous. The demand has swung away to black hats In plush and velours and to the dark col ors that look so well with the metal trimmings and handsome furs and feathers. Two hats are pictured hero which are so good in shape and in design and In every particular that they may be chosen with the comforting con viction that there Is nothing better. I One Is a moderately wlde-brlmmod model, with lines lifting a little at the front and a little more at the back. Its small, round crown Is concealed by three soft half-plumes mounted over It. They are topped by one of those odd steel ornaments mounted on a tern, which look like nothing on the earth or In the air above It Perhaps this Is a part of their fascination. A iat ot thia kind must be devel oped In naterlala t excellent quality ; N ' w;n i - fv 4 1 Styles Beautiful and Authoritative Jm 1 6 -tv --77- jj THOUGHT WHEW COFFEE. p . . ...... SURVIVALS ,0LD STYLES HOUrl QTIID M more fanciful boleros. Fine laces run with silver or gold threads that out line the pattern, or the metallic laces, will make lovely little jackets and add new finery by way of variety to the evening or afternoon gown or to the dance frock. Even an amateur or a beginner In needlework ought to have no trouble In making one of these fascinating ac cessories of dress. There are only two seams to sew at each side, the shoulder and underarm seam. They are so short that It will not tax the patience to fell them by hand. Hand work Is to be recommended for all these small garments and Is Impera tive when the metal laces are used. If you are considering what to make, as an acceptable holiday gift for some friend, the little bolero presents tew difficulties and many charms. W T"? and will bo beautiful in dark-colored velvet with plumes in shades ot the same color, or In black. A pretty turban of plush Is Bhown with a broad bow ot wide striped rib bon poised at the back. It appears to be tied over an odd extension ot the crown, covered with the plush, which supports It and adds an entirely new feature to the shape. A moire rib bon Is used, having a dark and a light stripe. There are many color combi nations that will be fine for a copy of this model. With all this collection of varied styles and influences Btrlvlng to make themselves felt, the opportunity for the individual who knows what to choose for her own particular style was nover so good. Iu mllllnory tho display ot pleasing hats Is creditable to the many independent designers who have created them. There Is noth ing startling In the two hatsvshowa here, and nothing freakish. They rep resent legitimate types of real mil linery, with novelty In the handling ot trimmings to further commend them. Wall, Me Ciuses a Suspicion. A girl's Idea of a coward Is a man who attaches Importance to the the 017 that there are germs In a klsa. Vour.g Lady, Teitlng Bveraga Mada of Refute, Declared It Unmletak ably tha Right Thing. A grent many pooplo who flattnr thnmsotves that they re Judgna of coffoo or olhor beverages may loam a IcHHon of caution from the export mpnta carried on by Sir H Irani Maxim whan he was trying to find a pala tablo preparation of wheat and coffee, It occurred to me, says Sir Hiram In "My LIfo," that very few people knew much about coffee. One Sunday I brought out from the Maxim Lamp works about thirty young men and women. My stenographer was also present; she was one of those young ladles that know all from whose de cisions there Is no appeal. I had cleared off a long bench anil arranged on It a large number of cups, milk, sugar, cream, much coffee, and plenty of apparatus for making coffee. I got from the army and navy stores various kinds of coffee that were sup posed to be the very best la the world, such as Mocha, Java, and so forth, and I also got from a dealer In coffee some of the sweepings and sittings of his shop small, Imperfect, ad broken kernels. These I freed from dust and dirt, roasted and ground, and mixed with three times their weight of chic ory. I was ready for the test. My shorthand writer came In, tasted the Mocha, the Java, the Costa Rica, and pronounced them all very bad. She then tried some of my wheat cof foo, which she said, was also bad, but not so bad as the others. But when Bhe reached the mixture- of sittings and chicory she was delighted. "That Is coffee!" she said, with an air of finality. "That's it! That's the right stuff!" In all probability the young lady had never tasted a cup of genuine coffee In her life until that Sunday morning. Youth's Companion. MADE THEM BOTH ASHAMED Frail Newsboy Taught Irritable Busi ness Men the Folly of Giving Way to Temper. Apparently It had been a bad day for the big, pompous business man, and he must have dealt heavily In wheat just before the 2,000,000-bushel contract was canceled, for he slammed his office door shut with a bang and mumbled something profane concern ing the breaks In the market as he shambled out Into the street He might have known that one of us would have to turn out, but he ex pected me to do It, and I wasn't In a pleasant frame of mind myself, what with a trying headache all afternoon and a fuss with the boss. So I didn't propose to get out of somebody's way when I was on the right side and he was wrong. Well, we couldn't walk through each other, so we just naturally came to gether, while the big business man proceeded to cuss me as he had just finished cursing the market, and I tried to make him understand that he couldn't walk over me, regardless of markets. Then Bonny came hobbling along; Benny Paul, who was whistling to beat the band! His small, frail body was bent on crutches and he was lug ging a big bundle of papers that seemed almost too much for him, but he was whistling just the same. Not a worry nor a care, making the best of today and hoping for the best from an uncertain tomorrow. He stopped and smiled. "Papor, mister?" he called cheerily. I exchanged a sheepish glance with the big business man, and he dug down In his trousers pocket and said: "I'll take the whole bundle." Then he paid Benny for them and gave them back, and I bought them and did the same thing, and we all whistled! St Paul Pioneer PreBS. His Precarious Condition. "I overheard someone saying that your nephew, Emmett Uckles, is lying in a critical condition. What Is the nature ot his complaint?" "He isn't making any," replied Uncle Fogy. "It Is his wife who is doing the complaining. You see, Em mett wont to Kansas City not long ago to buy goods, and a few days after his return there came a dainty note Blgned 'Your Little Sunshine.' It fell Into his wife's hands, and he has been lying ever since. I should call his con dition middlln' critical, too, for I don't see how In tunket he Is going to falsify his way out ot It." Kansas City Star. Age of Elephants and Parrots. Eardloy-Wilmot, In his "Life of an Elephant," says that these animals live one hundred years under favor able circumstances. R. Lydokker in his "Great and Small Game of India" says of the Indian elephant that Its age depends upon its teeth. Definite information as to the age of parrots Is hard to find. In a work on "Parrots In Captivity" one black Madagascar specimen iu the London ioo is mentioned, which was present ed to the society full grown in IS 31, and was still alive and well in 1SS4 Several others about twenty years old are mentioned. Cape Cod Canal. An Idea of the value of the Cape Cod canal to shipping is given in the fact that more than two thousand five hundred vessels have passed through this waterway since It wat opened In the summer ot 1914, each of these vessels saving something like seventy mllee of travel and avoldini the dangerous route around Cape Cod Pantalette Undoubtedly Here L 'A 'V e6M.J WWh ft, Diversity of detail la a striking char acteristic in the new models. In the morning blouse to wear with the tail ored suit It Is the brilliant coloring and odd fastening that Is the great style change from the preceding season. Made ot velvet, satin, faille, georgette crepe of taffeta, It matches the petti coat or Its new rival, pantalettes, of the same material, generally a kidlike finished satin. The blouse and panta lettes are now attached to each other. The pantalettes, which are made on masculine trouser line as to width and general shape, are no longer than the short skirt worn over them. The hem of the skirt, undulating or fall ing In points, partially conceals the pantalettes or delusively gives them the appearance of a tight drop skirt. Sometimes the pantalettes are drawn In like bloomers. More frequently Party Frock Party gowns may be fashioned In a froth ot lace and net, In layers of chiffon or net, or both over a silk foundation. Or they are made of the new and beautiful taffetas. And no matter how airy and unsubstantial they may be, bands of fur are very likoly to appear on them. Embroid eries of silver thread, the Introduction of sliver laces, and a use of span gled trimming lends them life and sparkle. When designed for youth ful wearers trimmings are to be spar ingly used. A lovely model appears in the pic ture above, made ot taffeta. This silk Is shown in a new and substantial looking weave, in all the light colors and In fascinating opalescent effects. Any of them will be suited for devel opment Into a gown like that shown here. The bodice Is simplicity Itself, so far as shape Is concerned. It Is mere ly a broad band ot the silk wrapped about the figure and fastened at one side. It Is overlaid by an embroid ered band of etitffon In which silver threads and spangles are wrought In 4 mm,, ,u,,.vv ywjHBMW ' O fc ' m " 1 J 2 they are edged by bands of fur. The lacy pantalettes of last season of the old-fashioned kind and longer than the skirt are almost never Been now. In the evening gowns the pantalette is confined to the charmeuse drop skirt, which Is almost lost to view un der the diaphanous outer skirts, long and short, that hang over it. This pan talette drop skirt is pretty because It Indicates the long, slender lines of the limbs more than a mere drop skirt would and gives the same appearance without shackling the wearer's move ments. The only thing some women lay up for a rainy day is silk hosiery, of Taffeta to the pattern. It . Is supported by suspenders of black velvet ribbon over the shoulders, edged with scant ruf fles ot malines In black. The skirt Is moderately wide and finished with a heavy cord at the bot tom which weights it and preserves a little flare. It is cut so that a bit of draping is Introduced at the right side, where a pretty spray ol little chiffon roses, set on a long wire (wound with gray-green ribbon), is tacked to the skirt in several places. These roses are in pastel colorings and add a gay, youthful touch that looks as it it might have sprung from the mind of the young wearer. Slippers or high-laced boots of satin are worn with dancing frocks, to match them In color. Those made ot silver or gold tissue have the ad vantage ot looking well with a frock of any color. Silk hose matching the slippers complete the details of th costume properly. I l ft' 4 in W VV " i i T v""-! SURVIVALS OF OLD STYLES Interesting to Trace the Various Pe riods Denoted by the Clothes of English Servants. By a large number of Interesting survivals, says the London Times in Its report of Mr. Wilfred M. Webb's lecture before the Ethnological so ciety, dross illustrates the Innate con servatism of humanity. Among these survivals Is the hat band, the original purpose ot which was to hold a piece of cloth or linen round the head. A picture exists ot an Egyptian figure dated 3000 B. C, the headgear of which consists ot a piece of linen, with a band tied round it that terminates In two tails at the back. A survival of that Is to be found In the tails of the present-day Scot tish bonnet and of the sailor's cap. Again, the clocks on stockings were originally a species of ornamentation put on to hide the seams where the stuff was joined together. The "points" on the backs ot gloves originally were strips of braid used to cover the seams In the gloves of early times. Men of fashion, when they tired of particular suits of clothes, have al ways given them away to their serv ants, and the practice has resulted In some styles of servants' costume fa miliar to us in modern days. The groom, tor example, represents a gen tleman ot the beginning of the nine teenth century, and he still wears the belt that ladies used to hold on by when riding behind on the pillion. The footman, with plush breeches and pow dered hair, is a gentleman of the time ot George III; the sheriff's coachman, with full-skirted coat and wig, is a gentleman ot the time of George II; and the Lord Mayor's coachman and suite are very fine gentlemen of the time ot George III. In the twentieth century we hand on our evening clothes to the waiters who stand be hind us at the dinner table. RACE MARK IN THE FACE Subtle 8lgn of Clanship That May Have Had Its Origin Numerous Centuries Ago. No eloquence of tongue, nothing that stands written in any book, may sway the heart as does that elusive qual ity the race mark in a face. And this is true less of the obvious physical as pect than of its thousandth secret con notations. All the world knows the Hapsburg lip, the jaw line of the Bona partes; the subtler marks of clanship keep their eloquence for their own. Conspicuously or not, each family group stands before these symbols as the small company of the learned might before some inscription on a desert ruin. Mere strokes and scratches to you and me. To the few who understand here is the key that unlocks the past. So the family look. In the arch ot an eye orbit, the curve of chin, we read the signature of race. Chance Imprints maybe, maybe seal ot some struggle so profound as to have set our lips at this particular angle, or through dimming attentions to per petuate a gesture born a thousands years ago in joy or in some stark agony of body or of soul. The family look. The first we re member; the last we shall forget. Elizabeth Robins in Harper's Maga zine. Salt-Water Cataracts. There are a good many salt-water cataractB in existence. They may be found in Norway, southern Chile and British Columbia, where narrow fiords, or arms of the sea, are ob structed by barriers of rock. The ris ing tide flows over and filters through such reefs into the great natural res ervoirs beyond, but the water is held back at the ebb until it breaks over the obstruction in an irresistible tor rent. Most curious of all is the wa terfall at Canoe Passage, where the island of Vancouver approaches the British Columbia mainland. Here the flood tide from the Gulf of Georgia to the southward is held back at a nar row cleft between two islands until it pours over in a boiling cascade 18 feet high, with perhaps double the volume of the Rhine. At the turn of the tide, however, the waters from the north rush back into the gulf, producing a cascade of equal height and volume. The waterfall actually' flows both ways. The Cheerful Japanese Ad. Japanese advertisers, according to "The Cosmopolitan," in the Boston Evening Transcript, believe in a lavish use of superlatives. "The paper we sell," runs the announcement in a To kyo stationer's window, "is as solid as the hide ot an elephant." "Step in side!" is the call of a big shop In the same city. "You will be welcomed as fondly as a ray of sunshine after a rainy day. . Our assistants are as amiable as a father seeking a husband for a dowerless daughter. Goods are dispatched to customers' houses with the rapidity ot a Bhot from the can non's mouth." Remarkable Birth Record. What is believed to be a record in childbirth was established recently by a Mahratta woman in Bhor state, East India. This woman, at the age of thirty-three, gave birth to quintuplets, two males and three females. All were born alive, but it was not ex pected they would live, "owing to the want ot nursing." The same mother gave birth to three children last year, but all died within three months. A record of bearing eight chi!dr"n In a year is believed to be unequaled In medical annals. Designed for Use Where Space Is Limited. Should Be Especially Valuable In City Tenement Houses and on Pas sage Ways Leading to Basements, It often happens in planning a house that the architect Is confronted with the impossibility ot accommodating a staircase In a narrow space. It Is easy enough to lead the narrow stairs down from one floor to the next, but when the landing can be no wider than the stairway he Is at a loss to carry the stairs any further. No such dllilcultles present themselves where there Is plenty of room and stairs can be made to turn around a cen tral opening or can be placed one lllght over another with a landing alongside of each floor. To solve the difficulty of narrow space for the staircase William F. Rodgers ot St. Louis conceived the Idea of making a door right In the stairs, these to lift on a hinge so as to open a way to the flight below. He worked out his idea and has just received a patent thereon. He calls his device an automatic stair-door. The landing Is only the width of the stairs that come down to It. On press- Diagram of the Rising Stairs. ing a catch on the lowest step a kick with the toe will do it four of the stairs rise, swinging on a binge in the uppermost of the four and moved by a weight hanging from an arm underneath. This leaves an en trance to the flight below, and one can close the stair-door on going down by simply giving the weight a push up ward. Coming up from below, the person who wants to open the stair-door finds a chain hanging underneath it; a pull on this chain releases the catch and the stairs move upward. The utility of such a device will be found principally on stairs leading to cellars and basements. r? Poisonous Metals. It is well known that Buch metals as lead, mercury) arsenic, antimony, zinc, etc., as well as substances con taining them, have a greater or less poisonous effect upon the human sys tem. Workers in various industries where poisonous metals are used have to take every precaution for removing particles from the skin, as otherwise slow poisoning is inevitable. It is im- portant to observe that washing with, ordinary soap does not completely remove such particles, because the soap tends to form with most metals ' insoluble compounds which still can produce poisonouB effects Ordinary bleaching powder (chloride of lime) is much better than soap for remov ing poisonous particles. It loosens them by both mechanical and chem ical action. It is also a strong but harmless disinfectant, and is practi cally as cheap as soap. C. E. Vail, Colorado Agricultural College, Fort Collins, Colo. Girl Swam Twenty-one Miles, Miss Eileen Lee, a young English woman ot Teddington, swam 21 miles in 6 hours and 38 minutes in the Thames the other day, one of the most remarkable swimming feats ever ac complished by a woman. It was the grace and ease of her style bf swim ming that enabled Miss Lee to accom plish her record. This Is not the only exceptional per formance that Miss Lee has accom plished, for a few days earlier she swam 16 miles in record time. Those who have had experience of long swimming in the Thames pronounce Miss Lee's more recent feat the more difficult because she swam both on the ebb and flood tide. The most at tempts at records in the river have been made on the ebb tide alone. It was calculated that the young woman maintained an average rate ot 2$ strokes to the minute. x Relio of Sun-Worshlp, That the ancient practice of em balming the dead Is a religious rite connected with sun-wOrship is the the ory advanced by Prof. G. Elliot Smith In a study of the migrations of peo ples, published in the memoirs and proceedings of the Manchester (Eng land) Philosophical society, a theory that the editor ot the Lancet Bays Prof. Smith appears to have proved beyond dispute. Professor Smith has traced the prac tice of mummifying into the remotest corners of the earth. In a hot. dry country like Egypt it was easy to pre serve a body, but In hot, damp cli mates it was. in the words of the Lancet "a very beastly and never very successful business," that could have persisted only as a religious rite. It probably had Its origin in Egypt and was spread througho-U the world by early missionaries