Image provided by: Hood River County Library District; Hood River, OR
About The Maupin times. (Maupin, Or.) 1914-1930 | View Entire Issue (Dec. 10, 1915)
4 WOMEN'S AND STORY PAGE i ! t As for the Evening Gown 53 llliill 0 szssnzssssaiisaits The winter color card provides a Borles of beautiful pastel tints for evening gowns, among the sedate but rich dark colors that are advancod for the heavier materials and day time wear. These dark colors Include "African brown" which is a very deep Bhade "bottle green," "crow blue" (darker than navy) dark taupe, and "field mouse," which is a warm shade in mouse color. A dark blue with a purple cast Is called "black berry," and a dark purple like that of the grape is called "Concord." The pretty drees shown In the pic ture show chiffon in a one-piece over dress worn over an underdress of net with laca flounces About the bottom. The lace' reappears In the collar and sleeves. Chiffon roses weight the over skirt and three of them are tacked to the front and back near the bottom. A band of wide ribbon la set on the underskirt and the same soft ribbon appears In a folded girdle about the waist of the underdress. It Outfitting Younger People for Fall September ts upon us and the young , people must be outfitted for the fast coming school days and for winter. It is good policy to make selections for them as early in the season as pos sible, because the choicest models in coats and dresses are apt to be those brought on by merchants for their opening displays. It may be Impos sible later to duplicate garment -among the early showings, that Just suits one. An elegant and snappy coat for a little girl is shown (with one of the new close-fitting fabric hats) in the picture glTen here. The checker board pattern, in the 'heavy woolen material, la finished with collar, cuffs, (belt and border at the bottom, of plush. The edges of the collar and telt are bordered with narrow fancy is brought through a slash in the chiffon overdress and tied in a loop with long hanging end. This is fin- lshed with a bead tassel. Satin slip pers and silk hose to match the gown In color, complete a slmpie and refined costume, Thin silk might be used for the un- derdress, and any of the pretty light colors or pastel tints chosen with good effect in this dress if selected with discretion, Stripes were better managed dur ing the past season than ever be foreat least within the memory of women and this is the probable cause for their continuation in favor. In the lovely light colors and tints one can picture them in the evening gowns of the coming season. Inex haustible variety is possible in de signs when we consider them made up with laces or nets or plain sur faces in one of the colors of the striped fabrics. JULIA BOTTOMLEY. braid in silk. The coat shown here ts cut with a double-breasted opening at the front, and large bone buttons make a prac tical fastening and are ornamental, too. An enameled buckle with white markings carries out - the color scheme In the garment The coat fits the figure quite smoothly above the waist line and ha. a flaring skirt which Just reaches to the bottom of the dress. The wooly little hat has a soft crown and rolled-back brim, the lat ter bound with silk braid. At the side a small animal with white fur looks like ermine, but is not. It Is made of J ' ' V :"'1s5';j:KS k V , - with twinkling black bead eyes ani, . hl. ,,,. oM .u Wlu.u ... - wain w FAMOUS OLD FRIGATE CONSTITUTION THE PRIDE THE AMERICAN NAVY. OP Launched In October, 1797, "Old Iron sides" Figured With Glory In the Early Struggles Attending the Republic's Birth. The most famous vessel In the his tory of the United States navy Is the Constitution, popularly called "Old Ironsides," and originally a 44-gun frigate. She was launched October 21, 1797, at Boston, but was not completed until the following year, when she put to sea under command of Captain Nicholson, for service again the French In the West indies. During the war with Tripoli, 1801- 05, the Constitution was Preble's flag ship, and in 1S0S took part in three of the five bombardments of the port of Tripoli. In July, 1812, under command of Isaac Hull, she escaped from a Brit ish squadron off the New Jersey coast after a spirited chase of three days. On August 19,- off Cape Race, she fought her famous battle with the Guerriere, a somewhat weaker English frigate, commanded by Captain Da cres, which she left a total wreck after an engagement of 30 minutes, the English losing 79 of their crew and the Americans 14. On December 29, under command of Captain Bainbridge, the Constitution captured off Bahla, Brazil, the Java (38 guns; Captain Lambert), after an engagement last ing two hours, in which the British lost 300 killed and wounded and the Americans 34. On February 14, 1814, under Captain 3tewart, the Constitution captured the Plcton, 16 guns and a convoy, in the West Indies. On February 20, 1814, she took the Cyane, 34 guns, and the Levant, 18 guns; after a fierce en gagement, remarkable for the seaman ship of the Americans and the gallan try of the English, between the Ma deira islands and the Gibraltar. . The English lost 19 killed and 42 wounded out of 320, and the Americans 6 killed and 9 wounded out of 451. Soon after ward the Constitution was pursued by a strong British squadron, which re captured the Levant. Between 1828 and 1830 the Constitu tion was reported unseaworthy ana or dered to be dismantled, but was re turned in deference to the popular sentiment aroused by Holmes' poem, "Old Ironsides," and in 1833 was re- built. In 1S55 Bhe was laid up at the Portsmouth navy yard, but used at times as a training ship. In 1877 she was again partially rebuilt, and the next year crossed the Atlantic for the last time. In 1897 she was roofed in at the Boston navy yard and has since been used mainly as a barrack ship. Anatomical Test. In recent years many anatomists have given much attention to solving the problem of reproducing from the skulls the faceB of ancient peoples. According to Nature, Prof. C. W. M, Poyntor of the University of Nebraska some time ago gave three skulls to a sculptor, with the request that he re construct the fleshy parts of the face and head according to the data pub lished by Professor von Eggeling of the University of Jena. Professor Poyntor did not tell the artist that the three skulls were all of natives of North America. As a matter of fact one, possibly of the Pleistocene age, was found by Mr. Robert F. Gil dor in a mound of river loam in Ne braska; one belonged to an Indian of pre-Columbian dnto; and one was that of a modern Indian. The photographs of the artist's work show in all three cases the characteristic face of the Amorican Indian. Whatever the age of the Nebraska Bkull may prove to be, Its owner was undoubtedly a man of the Indian typo. For Scientific Research. The British board of education has published particulars of a scheme for a permanent official organization of scientific and industrial research. It is proposed to form a committee of the privy council to be responsible for the expenditure of any new moneys provided by parliament for scientific and Industrial research, and a small advisory council, responsible to the above-mentioned committee, and com posed mainly of eminent scientific men and men actually engaged in in dustries dependent upon sclontiflo re search. The first members of the ad visory council will be: Lord Rayleigh, O. T. Beilby, W. Duddell, Prof. B. Hop- kiuson, Prof. J. A. McClelland, Prof. R. Meldola, R. Threlfall, with Sir William S. McCormlck as administra tive chairman. Trench Routine. Writing from a hospital in England, whore he was sent after a severe en gagement near Ypres, a Canadian says that, "owing to the strain of liv ing in these trenches, the usual rou tine is as follows tor any battalion: Four days in the firing line, four days in reserve, four days in the firing line again, four days In reserve, and then 16 days behind In order to rest." This Is a most definite proof of the tre- StVZlS ?Z T.f" T- this steady regime of relaxation cases of shattered nerves are common in army hospitals. Good Beginning Student Were you successful with your first case, doctoi T Old Doctor Remarkably. I attend- my bill in full I Matched Three 5iaii ::::::::;::: jgpaaC 11 . A pnnmnani Taupe velvet and opossum fur are ased to make this three-piece set, which includes a turban, neckpiece and muff to match. These matched sets are wonderfully chic and elegant when they are well designed. They embody the luxury of fur and the richness of velvet, and admit a greater play of fancy in their designing than is prac tical for the furrier, who works with furs alone. Plush as well as velvet 1b used in combination with furs for making matched sets. It has the richness and suppleness of velvet but not as wide a range of successful colors. In the set shown in the picture the taupe velvet is very much like the warm gray of the fur next the skin. This gray makes a background for the white and very dark markings which appear in the long hairs. The rakish turban is successful because it Is de veloped in sedate colors. It consists of a crown piece made of a small circle of velvet with a puff shirred about It, and a coronet, which is nar row at the right side but so high at the left that it encroaches upon the usual position of the crown. A band of fur and two pendant balls of steel Boudoir Caps for Now that the holidays are within hailing distance, those who anticipate the demand for all the pretty trifles of adornment and apparel that women love are preparing their alluring wares. These are being introduced by mer chants, with a recommendation ot early shopping. Those who are wise enough to save themselves the fatigue of the frantic rush which comes Just before Christ mas will find any number of gifts al ready in the shops. The merchant shows many of them to help the sale of the materials used for making them. Neckwear, ribbon, novelties, and pretty boudoir caps, fancy aprons and nearly all fancy work are dis played, to suggest to the gift-seeker ways of using materials. Here are two pretty boudoir caps among the numbers that have Just emerged from the workroom. They are among those that are easiest to make and are always attractive to Christmas Bhoppers. - The cap made of net has a plaque of tenertffe lace at the center ot the crown. This Is set on the puffed crown and sewed down about the edge ot the wheels. The net may be cut out from under the lace, or 111 wMlmyr - Piece Set beads finish this jaunty but refined bit of headwear. The muff is made by laying the vel vet in irregular plaits over a bed and gathering in the ends to achieve the fashionable barrel shape. At each end a pointed cuff of velvet is lined with satin in the same color. A broad band of the fur crosses the front, and narrow band extends part way about one side. A cluster of little fruits, made of satin in bright colors and cov ered with silver trlcotine, adds a little playful touch of brilliance, posed in the middle of the broad fur band. The neckpiece is merely a band of fur finished with a cuff of velvet, like those on the muff, gathered up and sewed to the end of the band. The ends of the neckpiece overlap and fasten with snap fasteners. These are two very strong points to consider in the matched sets. They unify the costume and they are very inexpensive as compared to fur, just as comfortable and. just as elegant looking., Holiday Demand light-colored thin silk may be used in stead of net for the crown. The crown and a frill of net are gathered over a narrow band ot flat elastic. The frill is cut wider at tho back than In front and edged with very , narrow filet lace edging. second row is sewed to the frill about an inch back from the front Two rosettes ot narrow satin rib bon are placed near the front .to add a bit ot color and decoration. This cap may be prettily elaberated by adding a small wreath ot tiny chiffon or ribbon roses about the crown or by using wider ribbon in fuller rosettes than those pictured. A clever bonnet ot crepe de chine consists of a long, straight piece with pointed ends gathered about a small plaque of lace to form the crown. An edging of val lace Is sewed along ono edge and about the pointed ends, and the strip gathered in at tho back vo form the cap. A val insertion is in troduced in the cap portion and a bow ot wide, soft satin ribbon is mounted over the gathering at the back. CHARACTER TOLD BY HAND Expert- Criminologists Have by Direct Tests Proved Their Theories to Be Correct. A French savant contends that the murderer haB a distinctive hand, His face may not be hideous, but the hands always are, and self-condemnatory. Evidence on the latter characteristic is scanty, and rests npon the inves tigations of the French criminolo gists; but as to the former it is a fact that some of the most brutal mur ders on record have been perpetrated by men whose countenances habitu ally wore a very mild expression. Deeming was a pleasant man to Bpeak to until crossed; but some of the authorities who examined his hands declare his broad thumb indicated the born murderer. The true ball-headed thumb gives to the first phalange a round, bulbous appearance. It is short, and the nail is so abbreviated as to suggest that it has been gnawed. It is embedded in the flesh, which rises on either side and beyond it. Dumollard, a wholesale murderer, had hand remarkable for its thickness and length of palm in proportion to the fingers. He had a significant sign, common to most murderers namely, the almost entire absence of lines in the palm, save the three prin cipalthe lines of life, head and heart. These lines were very strong ly defined. The line of the head the center line extending across the palm was violently cut by the line of life running upward from the wrist. Chiro mancy interprets this to foretell violent death. His fingers were knotty and uneven at the nail pha langes. To sum up, the signs of the murderer's hand are: Firstly, the pouce en bille." Secondly, and only less important, the thickness of the Mount of Mars at the edge of the hand, from which flows the blood di rect to the brain at the slightest mo tion, and causes the man to "see red." Thirdly, the scaffold sign in the sev erance of the "line of the head." Fourthly, the presence only in the palm of the three principal lines oc casionally reduced to two, and al most always of a bright scarlet. Fifth ly, crooked fingers with spatulate tips, the nails small and uneven. Ac cording to the rules of art, therefore, a murderer, if a murderer by disposi tion, and not (as in most cases) by accident, ought to have a hand with all, or nearly all, these characteris tics. Alaskan Timber. In accordance with the recent act of congress, the wood needed In build ing the government railway in Alaska, from Seward, on the Pacific, 471 miles to Fairbanks, in the interior, will be taken tree of charge from the Chu- gach national forest. The forest serv ice has issued a permit to the Alas kan engineering commission to cut 85,000,000 feet of timber in designated areas along the right of way of the new railway, which will run for sev eral miles through the Chugach na tional forest. Forest service em ployees are now marking the timber to be cut only mature trees, the re moval of which will Improve the for est. That will be the largest quantity of timber ever felled in the Alaskan forests as a part of one undertaking. It will be nearly twice as large as the total quantity of timber now cut in the national forests and annually put to local uses throughout Alaska, but only a little more than one-tenth of the es timated annual growth ot the Alaskan forests. The two national forests of Alaska contain about 78,000,000,000 feet of merchantable timber, and the forest service estimates that more than 800,000,000 feet could be cut ev ery year forever without lessening their productivity. Youth's Compan ion. Pan-America's Vast Area. The combined area of Pan-America, exclusive of Canada, is 12,000,000 square miles, of which the Latin- American countries occupy approxi mately 9,000,000 and the United States 3,000,000. This physical extent of Pan- America is better realized when it is compared wjth that of Europe, which has 3,750,000 square miles; with Af rica, which has 11.500,000, and with Asia, which has 17,000,000, a writer in the North American Review says. Remembering that commerce is of ten described as "the life blood of na tions," the Pan-American family cer tainly can be classed as lusty and full blooded, for in the last normal year before the war 1913 Pan-America's foreign trade, including both imports and exports, was valued at $7,000,000,- 000, of which the share of the United States was about $4,200,000,000 and of the Latin-American countries $ 800,000,000. , Reconstructed Man Costs $500. With exhibitions and catalogues of artificial limbs brought to notice one gets to calculating the cost of a re constructed man. Seemingly a little more than $500 would suffice. A pair of articulated legs cost about $150, and a pair of arms about $100. Ears, with drums, etc., cost $75 each; eyes $30 a pair, and so on. Without heart and brain a man is worth about $500. With them the price might change. Kills Two at a Shot. Since Howard Beech shot a deer In his garden in Lee, Mass., a few days ago, it has been found that he killed two deer with one bullet. There was a herd into which he fired and all ran into the woods. He followed and dis covered the body of one 'through which the bullet had passed. Next day Isaac Vreeland found the mains ot the other, a fawn, in which was the bullet Beech had fired. OLD BATTLE GROUND Since Earliest History Men Have Fought in the Alps. Two Thousand Years Ago Armies Traversed the Region That is .Now the Scene of Austrian Italian Struggle. If the rugged peaks of the Alps could tell their story, there would be many a thrilling and warlike incident to relate; but none so strange as the scenes which are being enacted today between the Austrians and the Ital ians in these mountainous regions. The Italians are absolutely at home in the mountains, and the Austrians are using every Invention of science to counteract this advantage. All the parapets on the steep roads, where summer tourists were wont to motor, have been demolished, and beautiful pine forests have been swept away so that nothing shall obstruct the artil lery. Large areas have been mined, and, by pressing a button, the Aus trians can hurl an avalanche of rocks and bowlders on to the heads of the advancing Italians or blow up the roads beneath their feet. From the Cottian chain, marking the boundary of France in the west, to tho Carnic and Julian Alps, north and east of the Adriatic in Austria, there are literally a thousand .passes and routes of more or less note, near ly all traversed by practicable roads, and some shortened by railway tun nels. Over these roads armies marched to battle over 2,000 years ago. Mont Cenis pass may have been Hannibal's route when, in the year 218 B. C, the Carthaginian conqueror invaded Italy with a large army, half of which he lost amidst the Alpine snows. " The conquest of some Alpine tribes by Augustus; the desultory warfare of Teutonic and Frankish hordes in the fifth and sixth centuries; and the un ceasing, sanguinary strife of Swiss "confederates" and Austrians, which lasted from the breaking up of the Carolinian empire in the tenth and eleventh centuries until the crystalli zation of the Helvetic republic by Na poleon Bonaparte's act of mediation in 1803 all these fill the chronicles and make nearly every practicable foot ot Swiss territory heroic ground. When Napoleon entered Italy, he crossed the Alps with an army of 30,000 by the Great St Bernard pass, May 15-21, 1800. Later, he construct ed the great military road over the Simplon pass, from Brieg, in Switzer land, to Domodossola, in Italy, and thence to Milan. MEANT TO FOIL PICKPOCKET Novel Device Gives an Alarm When One's Purse or Pocketbook Is Tampered With. This device is designed to sound an alarm when the purse or pocketbook is withdrawn from the pocket. When the purse is in position in the pocket it bears against a tongue snrine. When the purse is removed the result ing movement of the spring actuates a mechanism that causes a sort of hammer to strike a sounding plate. Scientific American. May Be Valuable Discovery. It has been ascertained that remov ing the spleen from mice makes them much less susceptible to tuberculosis. Though the explanation is not yet clear, a theory has been put forward that this is due to a substance called tuberculo-splenatin, which possibly has some affinity for the tuberculosis germ. Such Is the substance of a pa per In the Journal of Experimental Medicine, issued by the Rockefeller institute for medical research, and the Implication in the findings of Dr. Paul A Lewis and Dr. Arthur Georges Margot of the Henry Phipps institute of the University of Pennsylvania. The two investigators suggest the name tuberculo-splenatin for the new substance as "suggesting merely Us origin and Its apparent relationship to tuberculosis." Hardly anything is yet known of the properties of tuberculo-splenatin. Change In Farming Methods. The most characteristic feature of the Swiss agricultural industry since the outbreak of the war, is the inclina tion in all parts of the country to a more diversified cultivation ot the land, and the raising of more grains and vegetables Instead ot the one-sided systems obtaining heretofore -ot hay, live stock, dairying and cheese making or of grapes and other fruits.