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About The Maupin times. (Maupin, Or.) 1914-1930 | View Entire Issue (Nov. 26, 1915)
i WOMEN'S AND STORY PAGE Coiffures fop the ' " i , ji Just how the modish girl manages to achieve certain things Is the ques tion that engages the attention of other girls and Inspires the wonder ment and awe of the Bterner sex. How does she get on a tiny turban over the mass of fluffy hair which crowned her head aforetime? Where has said hair disappeared? How does she take on, with the foolish little turban, a "no body home" expression that suits It exactly but makes one look twice to be sure of her Identity? Some of these Questions can be answered and some cannot, because the maid herself hard ly knows how she manages. Just now some of the new hair dressing styles demand that the fore head shall be uncovered and that sim plicity in the coiffure be made a feature of its attraction. Some daring souls have even gone to the extreme of combing the hair straight back from the forehead and twisting the ends Into a plain, high coll at the top of the head. A round, young face with an abundance of hair to frame It may manage a coiffure of distinction by such simple means, but ncurly all people need soft, curving Hues about the forehead. A clever coiffure Is shown In the picture, In which the hair is not waved but laid In pretty curves about No one falls to appreciate the charm of the laco-trlmmed and fluffy night dresses that make up the mass of these garments. Always their pro ducers are presenting new designs that captivate the eye with the dainty combination of ribbons and laces. But there Is another charm which be longs to the hand-embroidered gown It Is the charm of elegance as well as beauty. There is nothing quite equal to find hand embroidery in expressing a refinement of taste, In undergar ments and other lingerie. The needlewoman who can do fine work can provide herself with lingerie fit for a quoen by virtue of her needle craft Or If she wishes to turn her accomplishment to profit she may be sure that an appreciative world Is ready to admire and pay for expert needlework. No one should put a low price cn first-class band embroidery not time plonn, but ability to do and quality of workmanship are to be con sidered In fixing its price. : A flDO hnndembroidcrod gown Is shown In tho picture. AH edges are acallopod and Cnlshod with even but tonhole Hitching. A floral pray and buttcrflos aro portrayed on the sheer batlsto surface by memo of the needle. A graceful pattern, email flowers and ibuttorflles and the us or appropriate Made Elegant by Needlecraft j ( y--7- x!Yi i f i I jr& ; I : V t " ' I ' M . v 4 Ml i L 1 I 1 1 Small Turbans the face by pinning locks of it at each side to form what are called "water waves." One way of doing this Is to dampen the hair and comb it back. A band Is then bound tightly about the head and the hair pulled forward In curves by means of the toilet comb. The waves are then pinned with small wire pins in the position left by the comb. The back hnlr may be arranged in a psyche knot, as shown in the picture, or in three flat coils across the back of the head. Or It may be worn in a high coll at the top of the head. In any case the band is not taken off until the hairdress is finished. Narrow velvet bands about the hair are very fashionable, and they are also very useful In holding the hair In place. JULIA BOTTOMLEY. Stripes Popular, A season of stripes everything; gowns, hats, sunshades, furniture! 'Twould be easier to delineate what is not striped than what is. The modish stripe of black and white, red and white and white with green, has found its way to square-shaped candles, too. Twenty cents each are these, and Just the thing for some room possibly yours. stitches combine to make the success nf tha rinalirn flnVTIl nf tMt, lrtnd nta nutftnal WU..I.U l villa Alllll HIQ lll-lll'ah when cut by the simplest patterns. In the example shown here the sleoves and body are in one; the shape of a flaring sleeve is outlined by scallops embroidered in lines on the body. They merely add graeoful linos and pleasing workmanship, that is, they are a part of the "finish" which makes the hand-embroidered garment elegant above others. Lightwolght, smoothly woven linen or the best of fine cotton fabrics are the materials which it is worth while to choose when handwork is to bi used In decorating lingerie. JULIA BOTTOMLEY. Gold Fringe Trimming. Do you remember the time when the mere mention of fringe as a trim ming for gowns caused you to curl up your Hps and elevate your nose? Do not distort your features when you read of gold fringe trimming an eve ning gown of point d'esprtt, for It ii most effective and really enables the gown to be described at gorgeous The fringe Is used around the bottom of the skirt, In a diagonal line acroBi the front of the bodice and along the ede of the flowing sleeves of tulle. ELDER NOT ALWAYS THE BEST Modern Science Has Thoroughly Dis proved a Belief That Was Held for Many Centuries. There was a time when the eldest son was supposed to be superior in all respects to his younger brothers That time Is past. ' Modern science has proved that when there is any difference the eldest son averages somewhat behind later-born children in mental strength and ofttimes In physical endurance. Does this, perchance, help to ex plain why hereditary government is so unsatisfactory; why the direct royal line so frequently runs out and the crown shifts to the descendants of some younger brother; why the first prince of a new line is so often superior to any of his successors? Under the royal rule the eldest son of the eldest son takes the crown. If there is even a trifling handicap in being the first born the constant mul tiplication of this handicap would raise it to considerable proportions In a few generations. The Turks avoided whatever evils may lurk In the law of primogeni ture. They allowed the sultan to name his successor, but provided thai this successor must be the son of a slave. In practice he was usually one of the younger sons of the monarch, and always the child of a woman who had wit or beauty enough to make herself the leader of the harem. As a result Turkey had the most wonder- ful succession of able sovereigns known in history, but the palace in- trigues and fratricidal wars to which the custom gave rise proved intoler. able. ERA OF THE SLANG PHRASE Common Speech of Modern Day Has Become a Curiosity, to Old Fogies' Regret, At this time the people call a man a guy," a woman a "skirt," and a dog a "mutt." Other samples of the speech of the people are not essential. The truth is that few can say anything In the old-fashioned direct way, says the New York Sun. All have become so accustomed to the use of slang that the common speech is no longer com mon; it is become a curiosity, rele gated to the obscure haunts of the 'highbrows" and treated with scorn by the workers of the world. While this undoubtedly gives much joy to Prof. Brander Matthews, It saddens some old fogies, who mourn the departure of earlier and more elegant ways of speaking, as they mourn the decadence of earlier and better manners. Per haps the two were unrelated, but they wore at least companions. Is It not probable that if the young ceased to call their elders "old guys" or "geezers," to refer to other people's mothers as "skirts" or "rags," and gen erally began to lift their terminology toward levels of a decorum less figura tive, if more prosaic, they might also improve their manners? At any rate is there any overwhelming reason why the youth of this time should be al most unacquainted with the plain Eng lish tongue and unable to say the sim plest thing except in slang? It is a matter worthy of the consideration of those teachers and professors who may perhaps not agree with the Co lumbia sage that "everything goes." His Business There. Champ Clark once told of a case brought up In Missouri in which one of the lawyers engaged tried to serve his cllont by throwing suspicion on a certain witness during the course of his cross-examination. The first question put was: "You admit that you were at the prisoner's home every evening during this period?" "Yes, sir," replied the witness. "State whether you and he were In terested In any specinl transaction, such as, for instance, business or oth erwise.;' "Yes, sir, we were." "Oh, ho!" exclaimed the wily attor ney. "Then you will, no doubt, be good enough to inform us how and to what extent, also the nature of the business in which you were jointly intorestod." "I haven't the least objection in the world," cheerfully answered the obliging witness. "If you want to know I was courting his daughtor!" Colloquialisms. One of the most common surprises in reading is to come across in old books what we have been accustomed to taking for modern colloquialisms. We have just struck this: "Why, then, do you walk as it you had swallowed a rod?" Where? In Kplctetus. The modern form Is likely to be a poker, but we had always looked upon the whole image as essentially American. It Is in reading the Elizabethans that this experience is most frequent, al though one Is likely to have it in read ing any classic; the best colloquial isms are likely to be the oldest Han per's Weekly. Good Company. Fran. Abt, the song writer, long since passed to the beyond, was sur prising gourmand. "A goose," he used to say, "is a pretty bird, but it has one great fault; it Is a little too much for one and much too little for two." Coming out of a restaurant one day looking supremely happy, "Ilerr KappelmelBter," said a friend to him, "you seem to have dined well." "Yes, I had a fair dinner; it was turksy." "And wa there a good company around the board?" "Yea, good but mall; just two, Indeed, the turkey and myself." & -Taw p PICTURE.SQUE Corner or heran AMONG the many famous health and pleasure resorts smoth ered by the European war, one of the most attractive is Meran. a ravorea garaen Bpot of earth, an ancient Roman out post where legionaries stood guard against northern barbarians and where Caesars sought to regain, their dissipated Jiealth, Meran has main tained through all its checkered history a high reputation as a pleasure and health garden, and as a resort for rank and fashion, says the bulletin of the National Geographic society. This pic turesque Tyrolese oity, banked around by lessor Alps, has been a favorite wintering place for wealthy Ameri cans, a number of whom have pur chased villas here and some of whom have become permanent residents. Considerably more than 10,000 guests sought Meran each year, many, nomi nally, fot their health, but most for the beauties of climate and surround ings and for the light gayeties of the fall and winter season. The counts of Tyrol, the noble fam ily from which the region took its name, long made Moran their resi dence. The much decayed castle of Tyrol, the original seat of the ramily, overlooks the town, and the mountain shelves and cliffs through the neigh borhood are crowned with many other anclont castles and fine chateaux. Meran Is the first town of the upper Adlge valley. It Is 42 miles south- southwest of Innsbruck and 20 miles northwest of Bozen on the Brenner line. The rugged Kuechelberg lies behind it and ail the hills beside are covered with miles of arcaded vine yards. Delicious grapes and wine are the town's most famed products. A grape cure is one of the attractions of the place, while the climate draws many suffering from lung troubles. Normally, Meran's season begins in early fail and lasts through to the end of spring. Italians Love Aqulleia. Aqullela, one of the first towns cap tured by the Italians in their storm across the Austrian borders at the head of the Adriatic, stands foremost among the Austrian Italian-speaking possessions in the sentimental attach ment of the patriotic sons of Italy. Situated six miles back from the Adri atic sea, at the edge of the lagoons, In the Austrian province of Goerz and Gradisca, it was once a great and flourishing seaport, at one time rank ing as the second city of Italy. It was, in those days, one of the mighti est bulwarks of the Roman empire against the pressing hordes of outside barbarians, a city of "proud walls and wide bespoken splendor." As late as the end of the fourth century Ausonlus placed It ninth on the list of the great cities of the earth. Today Aqulleia is a mean, poverty marked, dwindling fishing village, with a few thousand inhabitants. The wonderful structures of its heyday have served for centuries as stone quarries, and nothing now remains of their fabulous splendor. Aqulleia, re gal city of the empire, and later great seaport and Industrial city, has van ished, in all likelihood for good. There remains from its golden days merely a heterogeneous mass of relics, statues, mosaics, columns, friezes from its parks and buildings; lamps from Us once famous factories, besides many homoly survivals and nlcknacks. Grave of Past Achievement Trieste, the great seaport of today, i3 about tweut, 1 miles distant to the southwest. All the marks of the prosperity and importance of Aqulleia have fled to Trieste, in the east, and to Venice, in the west. The once busy harbor is choked with silt and drifting dunes, while rafts and fishing boats are almost the only craft that now thread the varying channels. The mod ern village, counting 2,300 people, Is unhealthy on account of its rice fields and is neglected and forgotten. Aqullela is a grave of past achieve ment and a much-weathered monument of the world of the Roman age. Its museum is rich in trophies of Roman times and its ancient cathedral and the remains of the patriarch's palace are its most eloquent concrete memo ries. Aqulleia, as is much of the north ern and western coast of the Adriatic, is a rich field for archeologlsts and antiquarians. The city is said to have been colo nized by the Romans as a frontier fortress against the Celts in 183 B. C, In 168 A. D. Marcus Aurelius made It one of the strongest fortified positions in the empire. During Hadrian's reign Its population reached the 600,000 mark. Attila destroyed the city iq 452 A. D., and It never recovered its greatness. Aqullela was great and strong only throughout Its Roman history, when, during its prime, it ranked immediately after the Eternal city itself. Its fortunes were those of the Roman world, and modern Italy, looking back over the gulf of centu ries, feels itself not only the descend ant, but also the heir of Latin Rome. Britain Needs Timber. The demand for timber in Great Britain is so great, owing to the war, that the export of this material from Newfoundland, which haa been prac tically abandoned of late years, is now being revived. Until about ten years ago there was a substantial an nual export of deal and sawn lumber, but about that time the possibilities of the island for pulp and paper-making were emphasized to such an ex tent that large enterprises along these lines were established in Newfound land, with the result that a large quantity of logs that had previously been exported in the form of lumber are now utilized and manufactured Into pulp and paper on the spot. Now, however, the war has brought about new conditions, and the Increased price for lumber has stimulated a re vival of the exporting trade, the vari ous concerns throughout the Island, which hitherto have been operating entirely for the local trade, having de cided this summer to go into the ex port business on an extended scale, as the compensation. If the cargoes are got securely across the water, is very large. No Use for Small Change. "The United States government could almost do away with coins smaller than a dime so far as the towns of the Northwest are con cerned." remarked Col. flenrrn w Drewry of Kentucky at the Raleigh, according to the Washington Post. Colonel Drewry spent several months in Montana and Idaho and has just come East. 'The price Is two bits' for most anything a man wants, ' con tinued Colonel Drewry. "It you want a shave It's two bits,' or if you want a refreshing drink of some kind it's the same. The bootblacks will con sent to uhlne your shoea a little cheap er, but they warn 15 cent for polish ing your 'kicks, and they appear to think that Ii too cheap." CURING ASTHMA WITH EGGS Simple Remedy That Is Well Worth Remembering by the Mother of Small Children. There are many children and worn en who need the nourishing element of eggs yet cannot eat them without distress and unpleasant effort. Some times even the sight of cooked eggs Is repulsive to these people. The real food value in eggs Is the proteid substance. Proteld substances are the main fuel for work and growth A person to be in good health must have a certain amount in their dally food. There is a chemical condition in most persons at times which causes a repugnance to certain foods. It is a body reaction. The doctors call it anaphylaxis. It is really a suscepti bility to poisoning by certain foodB, or in a psychologic sense, a reaction of normal Instincts. For example, some women cannot eat underdone meat or well-cooked fish any albuminous food. Others cannot bear the association of men, while others desire to have all the rights and privileges of the male with none of the responsibilities of women, Dr. Fritz Talbot of Boston has dis covered that asthma in children Is generally due to "egg poisoning," as mothers say. That is, in these chil dren the proteld substance irritates the nervous system and asthma re sults. As In most conditions of body poi soning so In this, the body can be Im munized by the cause itself. To im munize the body so no reaction will take place from egg eating, you can vaccinate the child with the white of an egg. After the skin has been washed with soap and alcohol the white of an egg 1b rubbed into a slight scratch. One application will gener ally cure the asthma. First Catch Your Rat. In many places of the country rats nave been far greater pests than usual and this has led a Scranton man to write as follows to the New York Times: "Before comlne to Scranton I was' located in a mill, situated on a river bank, and in the fall of the year we were always troubled with rats In large- numbers, which caused great damage and annoyance and we, there fore, were very much interested in eliminating the pest. The thing that we found most efficient in this line was a bacteria called azoa, which will not affect dogs or cats or poultry, or pets of that nature, but will inoculate the rats and, as the bacteria develops, it destroys the animal. Rats being cannibalistic in their nature, feed on one another, and in this way they dis tribute this disease among themselves and work their own destruction. In the experiments that were made with this bacteria in its early stages, Borne of it was used on isolated farms, and later rats were found to be destroyed by this material three to five miles from the original place in which It was fed." Russia's Dogs of Mercy. A further proof of the patriotism of the noncombatant classes in Russia is offered by the assiduity and enthu siasm with which the proprietors of kennels in the capital, in Moscow, and in other large cities have devoted themselves to the trainine of dne-R In. tended to be sent to the front as dumb but noble "brothers and sisters of mercy." It has become a favorite occupation of the upper classes to indiile-n in th highly serviceable and humanitarian work. The does are beine trained not only to search for the wounded on the aesertea Dattlenelds and to deliver bandage material and first-aid medica ments, but also to warm them and r- vlve them in case of unconsciousness. Tho conditions of modern warfare are such as to make it freauentlv ue. essary for the soldier to advance to wards the enemy's position under fire, hiding as he advances in bushes, marshes and glens. In these circum stances the tracing of the wounded would be extremely difficult without the aid of the canine instinct and in telligence. Insect Warriors. Talking of insects as w&rrinrfl. bti .amazing proposition was once sub mitted to the French minister of war by a professor at one of the lenrflno colleges in Paris. It was that large oiow-niea should be bred and kept in cages, where they should be fed on blood blaced between thn arflflpfnl skin of dummy figures dressed up in tne enemy's uniform. When war had been declared, the insects were to be fed on the sap of certain tropical nlants In order tn make them venomous. Then, con veyed to the front, thev could he rn. leased from their cages to make short work of the enemy. Country of Lakes. Finland haa an area of 144,249 square miles, of which one-seventh is water on account of the innumerable lakes In the interior. At the end of 1914 its population amounted to 3, 196,700, divided among eight lans, or governments. Of the population of the grand duchy, less than one-sixth live in the cities, of which there are only fifteen having more than 5,000 inhabitants. Helsingfors, the largest city, has a population of 154,000. Teachers Granted Privilege. School teacher who serve in the British navy or army during the war may reckon the period of such service a equivalent to service in a public elementary school for pension jiur. poses. ONLY BIRTH COUNTS IN AUSTRIA ONE MUST BE "BORN TO THE PURPLE." Nowhere on Earth I the Prestige of Caste So Marked as In the Do main Ruled Over by Francl Joseph. The Austrian nobility usually marry those of their own rank, with the re sult that nearly all the families of the aristocacy are related. Princess Karl, whose mother and father to gether had 15 brothers and nine Bis ters, told a correspondent of Cham bers' Journal that at the last court ball there were more than a hundred of her first cousins and that one win ter at Abbazla she had not spoken dur ing a whole week of balls and parties to anyone who was not connected either directly or remotely with her own or Prince Karl's family. It was thought that the barriers of caste would be broken down if the Archduke Franz Ferdinand should sue-, ceed his uncle, the emperor; for it his morganatic wife. Countess Chotek (created duchess of Hohenberg by the emperor), became empress, despite his solemn oath to the contrary, the pres ent rules as to birth could hardly be enforced. If they were so relaxed as to permit a lady not of royal birth to become empress of Austria they would be relaxed for all those who now suf fer exclusion from court for lack of princely blood. Princess Karl, al though she is very broad-minded, could admit no variation of this rule. "In Austria," she said, "it is what you are born that counts, not what you be come." When I ventured to point out that this sentiment belonged to the middle ages, says the writer, her reply Bhowed me the unchangeable point of view of the Austrian aristocrats. It is not mere vulgar glorying in pride of birth; it is the acceptance of a fact that to them is as necessary and as natural as the coming of night and day. "I was born Durchlaucht" (that is, Serene Highness) ; "I have married a Durchlaucht; my children are Durch- lauchts. How can I possibly recognize Countess Chotek as empress? Durch- lauchts do not make obeisance to countesses no matter whom they may marry. Countesses cannot be made empresses in Austria." 'But they can be made queens in Hungary," I ventured, "and tho arch duke would be king of Hungary as well as emperor of Austria." "It is different in Hungary." tho princess replied quickly. "The wife of the king of Hungary, is his queen, even if she were a beggar girl." Then if the duchess of Hohenberar had been queen of Hungary you would have made obeisance to her a queen?' "Certainly," was the immediate an swer. "Then why not as empress?" I asked. "In Hungary the Countess Chotek would be queen. It is only in Hungary that I would make obeisance to her. In Austria she could never be any thing save the Countess Chotek, be cause she was born Countess Chotek. One does not make obeisance to coun tesses, even if they marry archdukes who become emjterors," she repeated. J. ne murder at Sarajevo made it im possible to put this question to the test, but the Princess Karl gave the point of view of the Austrian nobility in a nutshell. Germans Short of Beer. Owing to the malt and harW ply to brewers being officially limited to 60 per cent of their normal require ments, and owing to the vast demand lor beer for the armv in thn flBM o decided shortage of beer is noted in Germany. In order to alleviate con ditions, the authorities have permit- ted brewers having sufficient supplies to UBe their allotted quantity of raw material of the last quarter of 1915 ror earlier consumption. Brewers who have not snflnlBnt supplies may purchase avallahle raw material from other breweries, in or der not to interrupt work. furthermore, brewers are nhl1?l to pool one-half of their supplies of raw material allotted for the fourth quarter of 1915, which will be dis tributed amone brewers hv the bined interests. Birds of a Feather. John Drew, at a luncheon in Bar Harbor, was condemning war. "Man is but little different from the lower animals," he said. "It isn't only in fighting and scrapping that man shows his resemblance to the beasts of the field. "I know, for instance, a fool bull that chased a red parasol all over a cornfield one hot afternoon. "And I also know a fool man who chased another red parasol all over New York one hot morning. ' Wash Ington Star. California' An expert fruit that the dried fruit Fruit Crop, packer estimates yield of California for 1915 will reach 000. He estimates produce 70,000.000 a value of $22,500, that the state will pounds of dried pounds of apricots, of prunes, and 30, raisins. peaches, 40,000,000 130,000,000 pounds 000,000 pounds of Off Guard. ' "How did it happen that your friend got the best of yon?" queried -the person with the question habit "They got busy while I was watch ing my enemies," explained the man who had got the short end of it