HER SILVER SHOWER
Caps for the Autoist in Winter
Fundamental
Principles of
HOW GIRL GAVE FRIEND A LE9
SON IN ECONOMY.
Stopping of the Little Flnanolal Leaks
Accomplished What Seemsd to the
Careless One to Border on
the' Marvelous.
"It Is the finest idea I ever heard
Two FAMOU
CITIES F
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ANCIENT CITADEL OT CRACOtf
BV THE broad Vistula river, on
ancient Poland's soil, lie two
famous age-torn cities, around
which have centered the rise
and (all of one of the mightiest
nations In history. Before their gates
and within their walls have been
(ought the battles of armies unnum
bered and lor a thousand years they
ti&ve known the sorrow of death and
destruction and ofttlmes the glories
of victory. In the valley of the stream
' whose banks they adorn a new con
flict Is raging today. On the outcome
of this struggle may rest their fate
In the years that are yet unborn, says
the Philadelphia Record.
Cracow and Warsaw, the cities are
one the capital of Poland's kings
when the nation was In Its prime;
the second the home of that glorious
hero, Kosciusko, who led the people
In their bloody war for Independence
fter Invaders had seized their
land. Through the centuries of
their country's prosperity and the
dark years of grief the beautiful
old towns have nurtured and cherished
the Ideals of the Polish people, and
today they house the only remaining
relics of that once proud nation which
long since ceased to exist.
One of Them Must Suffer.
Shortly after the beginning of the
present European war the czar of Rus
sia ilsBued a proclamation, promising
elf-government and religious and ra
cial freedom to the Poles within his
domain In return for their support
In ;battle. A similar pledge was made
jy Germany to that part of the an
olent kingdom now ruled by her. Aus
tria called on all her Poles for loyal
ty, pointing to the freedom and kind
ness accorded them In the past. Thus
tt was that Poles were arrayed against
Poles, the followers of Russia striving
to capture Cracow and the Austro
German armies aiming at Warsaw.
No matter who Is victorious It is cer
tain that one of these cities will
suffer. Should the Russians in the
end hold Cracow, Its people will be
made to pay dearly for their defiance
of the czar. If the Austro-Germans
triumph, and Warsaw Is finally theirs,
ehe will give no less a price for her
opposition to the kaiser.
While Warsaw has been the center
of agitation for the restoration of
Poland In late years, Cracow was a
thriving city before Warsaw came Into
being. It Is In the older city that
the most sacred memories of the dead
kingdom are found, for castles, church-
iiiiiiiH inNNsiii)ini -i
K GLIMPSE,
s and fortresses erected by some of
the ancient monarchs are stilt In a
ood state of preservation. Under
the rule of Austria the Inhabitants
have been permitted to elect their
own municipal government, and Po
lish patriotism has run high, the peo
ple taking the greatest possible care
of remaining monuments of their
former greatness. At present Cra
eow Is the center ot the grand duchy
f the same name, within the prov
ince ot Galicla, and Is among the
most notable cities ot Austria-Hungary.
Prehistoric Dwelling Placo.
In prehistoric times the caves In a
range ot hills north of the spot where
Cracow now lies were the oldest dwell
ings for the men ot the Ilmestona
period. Within the precincts cf the
town several hills wia among them
I ." " T:i!fr"'i''!i wfcjMit,,if
the ancient castle hill, called Wawel
Into these the waters have eaten deep
eaves, now valued as the oldest re
positories of remains of human civili
zation In the stone age. A legend
dealing with the mythical founder of
the city tells how the brave Krakus
delivered the people from a haunting
terror by slaying a dragon that dwelt
in a cave of Wawel hill Btlll to be
seen there and exacted a tribute of
human victims for Its food.
As early as the ninth century Chris
tianity was accepted In Cracow, the
seat of a bishopric being established
there. About the middle of the tenth
century the city was a flourishing
commercial town, under the rule of
Bohemia, but in the yea'r 999 Boles
Iaus the brave, one of the earliest
Polish warriors, won a victory over
the Bohemian troops and drove their
garrison from the town. Thus had
Cracow received her first taste of
warfare.
St. Adalbert, before he went to win
the palm of martyrdom at the hands of
the heathen Prussians, Is said to have
preached in' the market place, now
Central Square, where a small church,
erected to his memory, Is still stand
ing. From the time of Boleslaus the
Polish monarchs chose Cracow as
their place of residence, and the town
gained In prosperity and Influence.
Famous Old Buildings,
Among the most famous of the an
cient buildings remaining In Cracow
are St. Andrew's church, the Wawel
castle, St. Florlan's gate and Bar
bican, Wawel cathedral, the Cracow
university and the tomb of Kosciusko.
The university is one of the oldest In
Europe, having been built In the four
teenth century. The cathedral start
ed building almost a hundred years
before, additions and Improvements be
ing added during many ages following.
The town walls and fortified gates
played no little parts In the battles of
Cracow and, as a result, most of them
were destroyed. St, Florlan's gate,
however, Is still fairly well preserved,
and Its barbican, which served as an
outer fortress, Is In excellent condi
tion. It was In 1794 that the mighty
Kosciusko started the fight for Polish
Independence, making his headquar
ters In Warsaw. After a bloody battle
lasting three days, the Russians were
driven out of the city, and a short
time later Wllna, the capital of Lith
uania, was also liberated, but after a
year of terrible warfare Poland's hero
WW-"' jlWvy',;W:
or WARSAW
was defeated and the Russians recap
tured Warsaw. Within the past cen
tury the city has been the storm
center of two serious revolts, in which
the spirit ot Koscluszko flamed forth
anew In the hearts ot the latter War
sovlans. In late years, even under
the more liberal government, many ot
the wealthy Poles have retired from
Warsaw, giving up their business and
friends, to live lives ot seclusion on
little farms a few ml' is from the
city. Here they may live their lives
In peace and quietude, teaching their
children the ideals of old Poland and
the hats for the czar. Many of the
former Polish nobles, the richest fam
ilies and the best educated, may be
found In these farmhouses, raising
such supplies as are necessary to
their dally life and striving to battw
tha hopes of their
By ALBERT S. GRAY, M. D.
(Copyright, 1914, by A S. Gray)
PERSONAL RESISTANCE TO DE
CAY.
Whether the reaction of the saliva Is
acid or alkaline has been under dis
cussion for a century, and men still
differ so widely and so many authori
ties may be found on either side thal(
the subject 1b Involved In confusion
Without doubt the truth is that thd
lallva Is very feebly alkaline and
readily changes either to acid or all
kallne with the establishment of va
rious constitutional conditions. No
two Individuals can possibly be exact
ly alike and the constitution of the
mouth secretions tnust vary according
to time, place and the predominance ot
one or more of the forms of the many
jpecles of micro-organisms known to
be found in the mouth; also It must
vary in accordance with the Individual
state of health and mind, so that a
physiological saliva, with the biochem
ical elements In a state of equilibrium,
Is probably very rare.
If confusion exists concerning so
comparatively simple a matter as the
reaction of the saliva, It is reasonable
to expect difference of opinion In re
gard to so world-wide and vague a dis
ease as caries, or tooth decay, and Its
numerous allied conditions. Because
they are so very closely identified the
same general confusion exists with
reference to the subject of decay of
the teeth as pertains to the reaction of
the saliva. Hence, one authority finds
carles due to acidity and another to
akallnlty; another declares It to be
caused by the absence of a certain
element, and still another flndB It Is
caused by the presence ot that same
element
The idea that some teeth are hard
and resistant to disease and some soft
and easily destroyed was very gener
ally believed by the dental profession
until the investigations of Dr. G. V,
Black a few years ago cleared the sub
ject He demonstrated that there Is
actually no material difference in the
hardness of teeth and that the quality
of hardness or of softness of the
teeth has no specific connection with
their tendency to decay.
When tho teeth of children are seen
to be decaying badly the general Inter
pretation is that they are soft and
poorly calcined. If, on the other hand,
the children happen to grow up to ma
turity without developing decay of the
teeth the Interpretation Is that the
teeth are hard and firm and therefore
resist decay. Then It has been gen
erally observed that during pregnancy
and lactation the teeth of women suf
fer more from caries than during other
periods, and this has been so universal
an experience that It gave birth to an
old saying: "A tooth for every child."
It Is generally held that the teeth
of the mother are robbed of the cal
cium salts to build up the bones of
the unborn Infant, but this is one of
;hose half truths that are so confuS'
ing and misleading.
Carles is essentially a disease of
childhood, and childhood has epigram-
matlcally and most truly been desig
nated as "an extra hazardous occu
pation." Child bearing is an extra
hazardous occupation, too; and so,
measured by its mortality, 1b modern
business hazardous. We have already
noted that typhoid and other fevers
frequently and quickly destroy teeth,
and so does excessive physical work.
It Is only within the last few years
with the dawning understanding of
the action of catalyzers, the enzymes,
and the ductless glands of our bodies,
and more especially since Funk's denv
onstration of the vitamlnes and their
Influence on the hormones of the duct
less glands the governors of our bod
iesthat the matter begins to clear.
We begin to suspect that It 1b not
solely the abstraction of the phosphor
us, the calcium, the magnesium, the
carbon, the Iron and the fluorine from
our food that Is the cause of the
universal prevalence of tooth and gen
eral physical decay. We begin to
suspect that the loss of that part of
the eternal energy by which those ele
ments are normally welded Into and
held In the plants, our ultimate source
ot life, precipitates these troubles
upon us. We know that animals can
be starved on "physiological combina
tions" of the pure salts of these ele
ments, and we know that they thrive
on the natural constituents ot the
same elements.
With the single exception of the
tides, the movements of which are
connected with the moon, and the ro
tation of the earth on its axis, every
motion on this earth from the beat
ing of every Individual heart to the
turning of every windmill may be
traced back to one ultimate cause
a sunbeam and every form of life la
a component part of a cycle continu
ally transforming, by means of the
sunbeams, dynamic Into potential
and potential back into dynamic en
ergy. So far is we know man is
the only species with sufficient pre
sumption to break the cycle, and the
price we pay for our arrogance Is loss
of our norm: 1 resistance to decay.
FURS and plushes and other warmth
conserving fabrics help to make It
possible for the devotee of the touring
car to face ordinary winter weather
and keep comfortable. Coats with
broad collars of fur that can be fas
tened up close about the neck, caps
ithat stick to the head and are soft,
shaped to protect the eyes and not to
catch the wind, with veils that cannot
come off all have been planned for
her. Fur-lined gloves for the maid
that likes to drive, and the coziest of
overshoes, encourage her to defy the
weather.
, Here are two caps that are thor
oughly practical and at the same time
'have the compelling virtue of being
good-looking. They are modeled after
the Jaunty jockey-cap type, but have
full, soft crowns and can be pulled
down over the ears.
In each of them the veil Is held In
place by narrow straps made of the
same material as the cap. These
straps are sewed at one end to the
cap and fasten at the other with
snap fasteners. This allows the veil
to be brought down over the face and
wound about the throat, or to be fas
tened up off the face or wholly de
tached. 1 The cap at the left has a stiff visor
'covered with cloth and lined with Bilk.
Dainty Dress
EVERY woman likes to possess pret
ty and dainty accessories of dress,
no matter how fragile and Bhort-lived
their glory and freshness may be.
Here are three of the new things that
have considerable durability to their
credit and are Indisputably attractive,
and therefore popular.
At the left Is a corset cover of pale
pink crepe de chine and shadow lace
with shoulder straps and decorative
flowers of satin ribbon. The same mod
el may be bought in any of the light
shades and in white, at so modest a
price that almost anyone may gratify
a taste for "just pretty things" by
buying it A little can be saved by
making It at home, when the price
will be something less than a dollar
for the material.
In making such small garments
there Is a saving usually in making
two at one time. The width of the
silk and lace is sufficient when the
length required Is purchased to make
two corset covers like that shown
here.
A straight strip of the crepe de
chine Is decorated with three groups
of tiny hand-run tucks and hemmed up
along one edge. The other edge Is
stitched by hand, if possible to a
strip of shadow lace of the same
length as the silk. The upper edge of
the lace Is bound with satin ribbon,
and shoulder straps of the same rib
bon are sewed to place.
Three small ribbon daisies or flat
roses with pale yellow centers are
sewed to the front and baby ribbon
is run through the binding at the top
and the hem at the bottom, in order to
adjust the garment to the figure.
At the right Is a neckband of velvet
ribbon bordered with knife-plaited lace
and faststM with hook and eya un
X AW 4 YM A
Caps of this kind are often made of
the same material aa the coat
The cap at the right Is made of
mottled plush with a narrow, flexible
brim that takes the place of a visor.
In It the crown is not quite so full
as In the cloth cap, because the fabric
Is heavier and looks much like fur.
The floating veil Is long or short,
of more or less heavy chiffon In a
washable quality and color. Caps of
this type are Inexpensive and alto
gether dependable.
JULIA BOTTOM LEY.
A Test for Linen.
Everything that's labeled linen Isn't
linen. It may be part cotton and part
linen, and It may be mercerized cotton
with a very small portion of linen In
It
To test the material you buy for
linen, drop water on the goods. If it
is all linen the moisture spreads rap
Idly and dries quickly. On cotton the
fabric will remain moist for some
time.
Glycerin is considered a better test
than water. . It causes linen to appear
transparent '
Another test for linen is by break
ing the yasp. If cotton the ends will
curl up, If pure linen the ends remain
smooth.
Accessories
der a ribbon rose set In millinery foli
age. This may be worn with the
ruche upstanding and is a very simple
affair to make at home, as the lace
plaiting comes ready made.
The little bow made of wire covered
with narrow velvet ribbon that Is
wound over it, finishes a neckband
of velvet which fastens at the back.
These bows, unattached to the band,
are worn over standing ruches to sup
port the lace or mallne of which they
are made.
JULIA BOTTOMLEY.
Lace Novelties.
Wide flouncing, with a very narrow
design along the edge, is one of the
peculiarities of this year's laces. This
is new and can be used in the gowns
where the skirt is a series of over
lapping silk and lace flounces. Among
such designs is the "Boule de neige.
j The narrow border which outlines the
deep scallop is a vine dotted by little
round balls of the thread. Another
novelty, fur lace, has so thick a che
nille design that it looks like fur. A
deep flouncing with a double row of
scallops with this extremely narrow
border is for the foundation skirt, that
Is unlined and covered to just about
the ankles with satin or velvet over-
tunic. The ankles show through this
lace flouncing.
Mats for the Table.
Very useful. Inexpensive table mats
may be made from thick brown cor
rugated packing paper. Cut out size
and shape required, and use two
thicknesses, placing the smooth sur
faces back to back. Sew them firmly
together at the edges, and cover them
with muslin or any other washing
fabric. The covers may be removed
and washed when they become solltd.
of," said Luclnda Grey, as she looked
compassionately at her pale little
friend just out of the hospital. "I'm
tired to death of restaurant fare, and
I haven't forgotten your cooking, Alice
Benton I But are you sure you are
strong enough to do It?"
"For two of us In this place?" The
pale girl laughed derisively. "It will
be like play, and the best possible
occupation for me."
"Very well, It Is settled, If you are
certain It's not too much for you.
You'll find my purse In the bottom bu
reau drawer in a little tin box; use
what you need for supplies and
things."
"All right, but I am going to bear
my half of the expense, remember."
"And do the work besides? I call
that an unequal arrangement" pro
tested Luclnda. She knew what must
be the condltlou of her friend's purse
after her long Illness.
"My month In the hospital made
quite a hole In my savings," Alice ad
mitted, "but I need not be a burden
to my friends.'
"You mean you have money saved
from your salary?" asked Luclnda, in
astonishment. "Will you kindly tell
me how you have done It, O wise
young person? I've never been able
to save a cent, and It worries me
more than I can tell. I'm sure I try
hard enough to be economical."
"Perhaps we shall find some of the
little leaks later," said her friend, with
a smile.
Two weeks had passed when, as
Luclnda was dressing one morning, she
palled across to the little kitchen,
Now, Alice, you've mended this old
corset cover. I told you It was not
worth" I
Her voice died away Into astonished
silence. From the folded garment
Something fell with a thud to the floor.
It was a silver half-dollar wrapped In
a piece of paper, on which were writ
ten the two words, "Five Minutes."
Luclnda slipped the silver into an
empty box In her bureau drawer, and
put on the mended garment thought
fully. As she was leaving for the
bffice she paused to call back, "Do
rou mind telling me what 'Five Min
utes' meaps?"
"That was the time it took to mend
It," said Alice quietly.
Almost dally after that something
was added to the contents of the box;
silver half-dollars for each pair of
neatly mended stockings that Alice
had found discarded in a rag bag In
the bathroom, and varying amounts
for the undergarments and waists and
neckpieces that she freshened and re
stored to usefulness.
"I'd like to know what she will do
with a pinned-out collar," said Lu
clnda, a little vindictively, one day,
as she put three of them into the rag
bag. When the laundry was returned
Luclnda found the three collars on her
dressing table. A jaunty bow pinned
on the front of each completely coll
cealcd the devastation the heavy
brooch had made.
"You are certainly hard to circum
vent, Alice," she said, with a laugh.
"You needn't do any more, if you
please. I've counted the money In
my box, and I've learned my lesson.
I'll never again see a partly worn gar
ment without seeing also the money It
would cost to replace it, thanks to
your 'silver shower.' " Youth's Com
panion.
Activities of Women.
Women cooks In Norway are paid
from $6 to $13 per month, while house
maids get only $5 per month.
A regiment of girl scouts are now
being drilled in military tactics in a
New York armory.
Woman carpet weavers In the Firth,
Eng., carpet mills earn an average of
$5.47 a week.
The ' former Anna Gould, now a
French countess, has opened a work
shop In Paris to give employment to
needy women who have been made
destltnte on account of their husbands
going to war.
Miss Ruth Clair of Philadelphia is
an authority on football and secretary
to the ruleB committee.
When the women of Pasadena, Cal.,
go to the polls to vote they push baby
carriages before (hem.
When Arabian women go into
mourning they stain their hands and
feet with Indigo for eight days, and
during that time they will drink no
milk on the ground that its white hue
does not harmonize with the mental
gloom.
Look Ahead!
There are some persons who ride
all through the journey of life with
their backs to the horses' head. They
are always looking Into the past They
are forever talking about the good
old times, and how different things
were when they were young. There
Is no romance In the world now, and
no heroism. The very winters and
summers are nothing to what they
used to be; In fact life Is altogether
on a small, commonplace scale. Now,
that Is a miserable sort of thing. It
brings a kind of paralyzing chill over
life, and petrifies the natural spring
of joy that should be forever leaping
np to meet the fresh new mercies that
tho day kaopa krinfla& (