romen'i""
Women's - Schools
and Churches I
am
vouviil
EUGENE, LANE COUNTY, OREGON, SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 29, 1925
NUMBER 44
rnJSiVE DESIGNERS SHOW NOVEL K1DSK1N SHOES IN NEW YORK
" .... i.!.... I.'ui'il.livtw.u it... I i if ' . .i 1 1 ..
1,1, 'Avenue i'iim""" " V,. "V ' ' hhtii i.,r l ull l-i,twi:ar ; tlic Great I'rqionc trance, of
i'1" ' klllsklll hhllCH till 1 fill it il-l :i II I I f it... M t. IIM. i ... ... 1
"" " .wmr, Hllll yillli: Mtllplc J.IIICS
I
,
p x' , miM
MISS ALICE BRADY
riflh Avenue. New York, during
r.tv wrl of foolwrur (nahton
Ilrr. miilll I lie unlet
taco( fjwu lou s.tlnn, located
!llAMU. IUl Kit' C"Mtlti'M do
katllfi Um Julia Ilov(s and
lnnr flrclr fw Ynrk'H
Tftcbiplv footwear ilMtui)rrii
(t&tld an exhibit of their fejiil
hot modfis fur autumn itn I
Jrnr before linn anything like
bmatlfinplfHl. l lri. htcaimo
rtbikcvn rivalry umongsl tho
m rrt'.on unit their attitude l
wttllv rather than rooperu-
(: But for l)t vai few it
ma hnvfl Inn- the victim of
fhanjrlnc fud ami Jaiii'tei
il one rarccly knew v.hil.er
1 could WftKt'ii in llii' innrniitii
(l wtll ahoil In yi-.cun'uy h
kw. Thli rrungoinen'. nm'efth'-
M th h0 IlivpallllK ill tOittON
lunraoua ami en mm fabric.
fity the well-dressed womun
ffiti one new pair of shoe
each month In order to keep
iltirt'iiil of the inmlf. I
Hlme iftiuttH hao reverted to a
mi. art eliiipllrity. Hit oca muni i
IlkotvlKo; anl I his group of forr
tnoMt tihoe degui-rn are Mibmltilng
their ItfUPNt Mine treat iniiN fur the
approval of I ho Now York woman.
Geographically (tpfjikttiK. Klfth Av-
min Ih tin i-intnr of ul that Ih
miturt anil clili. HlarttttK al Fifty
MPM'iith Mlrt-tM, iho nploun nhopplni;
limit, oiw ptiHiH tlx? ilmp of rut'li
nxhlttltnr, hoto and thoro turning
a rorniT. hut )iwum rfiualnliiK
In 'hi fthiKlDw of I'lftli Avpmiic- un
til l ho l-'iht Nltop Ib paHHfd tit Tlitriy
firth ni.-rot; wlillo rxai-tly mlil-uuy
at laorly.Hlxtti (no( (ho Impim
Inir Hiilnn whlrh honnl the rrt-u-llonn
1 1 rurh i-ra ft sman.
Tin moHt I'niiftptiMiouH foutiiro of
tho tltiiplay mm that kill lc:tttior
wuh tin I fritally UMCil tin tho iiii-dlum
of t'Xiiri'-itnoii. Womrii havo cotnr
to riullxf ih at t lie No(t KlcniiihiK
toxtnro o." kldHkln ItnpartH to the
foot tho HJUiu fluttering kiuco ami
cloitHiicn that a khl k'ovo kIvoh to
tho hand. And then too, kid leath
er 1 tho only material that rcpro-dut-c
(ho rich ttliudus of Kolilen
brown whlrh liiul (or ntitumn and
Inti-r. A for tho Mark fhoo,
hnth the dull and glare finish fihuro
In popularity and JndK'tiK from tho
pronounrcd rwpotiho In purrhat4liiK.
women an finding the Hatixfartlon
and ntylo In tho now smart hlacK
kid kIiock. that ha hen wnntliir,'
fur mo lomt In the loss ervlcoublo
niutrt'lul.
To adoquatrly dp scribe tho doz
MISS JULIA HOYT
eraro to a high curving arch. Ii
Ih in tho trimming that one flndd
individual rxpreHion. The ombre
effect i nor hups the newest on the
golden hrown kid hoe. showing
-four narrow bands of overlapping
km, pnuuing rrom light to dirk,
This banding usually runs acrostt
tho I n i o p and back t o w a rd tho
In el or It may bo unod as a little
wlnjr arrangement on the duter
tfldo of ouch nhoe. A floral motif
uppllqiiod on tie und quarter in u
mi if ithoi'H on display would take contraHtlng nhade of kid Is decldcd-
a volume at Iut. but each dtytlgn
oin hod ion thrjic three Htylo prln
rlploi Uidkln. tho mi'dium; brown
or blark. tho color: nlmpllrlty of
lino and trimming, tho effect. If
you ran Imagine fitting to your
o n foot a piere of thla fft silky
h-athor Juki as you would cut und
fit a dnw, then you may have a
prrfrrt plrluro of till that in ninurt
and fashionable in' footwear. The
natural linen of tho foot are ac
centuated the too is neither point
ed nor rounded, hut Just a natural
modification and tho two Inch heel
lends tho neccHflary support and
ly new and striking. Colored lifc-
ard and Hnake Rkln, particularly In
reda and greens, making an inter
esting heel and piping on tho smart
black kid pump. With the return
of the plain kid pump, cut steel
buckles or every size and descrip
tion are temptingly offered so that
one may dre.ss the shoe up Cor more
formal wear.
Kach. afternoon a formal prom
enade of the models ws held, fol
lowed by a promenade on Fifth
Avenue for the hundreds who wore
unable to find standing room within.
NEWS AND GOSSIP FROM PARIS
Minister Iiriand lias Uscl Same Tup Hat for 20 Years;
Cold Weather Sends People to Rivera
'mimlnr. of Hi, A..c i.lr.l lrva.)
PAHia it i, I,,,,,,, of ..1r.
Jiinuwr ilrlimil Hint ho linn
') the lain. Inn hut r.ir m..i-n
ft !l T.r. Thn vvinran Iiiiiit
p ulll Jolni! iluty u Iiimi tint ro-
f imclf J I'alnlvvv iiitiiinl ry wunt
,J" ui clmmliiT ut iliMiutliiH u
" 4'M l;u.
!t htl i.rviil l t.i .1....1....
"" I'liiimi unlink
p men If nun nx prfttiior. iltir
FWp to Wa.l.ii.Ki.m rr tiui
pnunrm r a n r (. r ( n c mul
to ma nwnt ii(.Kittm t
iu. m '""'""i". Tin tiiioimi
iinaier nun. i..
'ft u little , ,,.,, rfP.
rf. " m' 1"iii.m mtli! "ili.i hv
ii to'l f,"""l f "-
P" M the Fmnrli ,. it.
UtDhini' i
Yiri.. " i.iuiiiii mi nun
rJ win rc-olviMl in ni,Mini
!,, , , l-:Kliinil. 1 1 Ih
tKh! hl ; . " " i:iinuin'iir
Mk.'l.n"1 ,r" "'
Nil m. u '"" "" fUWPU.
fn. Tki. " ""'K 111(0
Il . Ii n rnvni ,.iii. r.
i ,,,,' w"l,llim." nn.l orf
mi Ii . i, r 'fi'vii iik In
r( Vf" l'""l1" iilli-
hM. iii . '"""I'll oiirllrr thnn
h tt,,Uo.rrnn,,,n ''"t
Kh.S,. "r""' i'xt Uir.o
1)11' I'lllllilinl iml.
nvenk.ii,.,. f Kimlliih
ik.
P'tleri,
..""""Ul til.,!,,'
nnlin. ,nr uric
I di.w i. i n Kny tlino
""rlou.iV . ''rlvorn are
iid ih. "'""''"'milMl Hint II
u r. ."'i"tiiiiB niiiiint
P "ley I: ! "w" '""K'i'K, "ml
r n "'"Miliilno,! Hint
IlKllUMl
S Th".".',!1'0 """" eon-
m. .""llllH'. Ih Iiii.i.
win. 'in now i . .
L l lln.nl- . M,ll" Ollloll
rlll
ft
ihi, lT,u' "Hn " ",,k,t
im. I rillmtllinliMl nn
Iftlt
Prlnrlpio.
nllll,l lllllln.ri .
l.. "i rnii,. ., vno R to
K'Snlrt t,mn n,,"t
V Wmm , loft hph'm
Jw,.."1.1"' Arlma m lhn
(l to lli Ti
w Ain.Vi ""'won .Tnim-
liiul: thpy. rncl quickly liy wny (
tl illvorco nnil tho .liiiuiiip.io rlinld
lllnmoir ili'iii'l'toil liml ill. Mi.' mi
Ii'kh Im k"'m bnok to lil own coun
try. "tin Ilio otliir Iniiiil. tlu i"l
porroi't limrrniKi' III tlio wiirlil l
Hint liolwi-on n Mi'Xlinn Kill "'Hi
it .liumlit'iio liny, lli riimn. Nor
wvKlnn. "nil Hwi-illHli miin iiIhh K''t
iili.liK with JnimlioHi'. Mill AiniTlcn
Ih n nun rliiKi- ili'iii'li, unit, NvolrsH
liuniillHo fur t i-l-m it
.
IliirKlniH In I'iiiIb Iiiivp roii'iilly
flKiiri'il out l" ri'iiil"!". "ii woil
iih Kiililimllhri nnil Ji'Wi'li'ia, hiivo
Mnrkii or Kohl. Thoro h" '"
tl him-Ii'H nf. rulihrrli'it or ili'iitlHts
orrtci H till" fall i-iwinhlliiK Uii"
wiirk of tho "rut hlli'Klni" l I'm
html. Siniio of the haiil" l'"l
nmrii thnn nnoo In K"M '' ""''I"
for iIIIIiikk, hul uiiuiilly t Ii" tooth
liiii'lnlni'iH mill ii I'll '"
KIllllH liy IlllHl'ollllllOOUH hlli ol
Jov.olry. mniy fur" '"'I'' "
iniie, Duo InirKliir, iIIhkiihI' iI wim
n Miniill haul, lofi ii nolo for t "
ilonUm miyliiK ho hail taken mo
offloo inaKiiislm'H. havliiK fiimm
nnthliiK morn valuahh-.
Willi oai'll miroooilhiK Kronrll
ovoniiiii-iit iiroi'lnlniiim- it "'"ro
HtrliiKi'iit oiMinoiny in-oKi'i'i". wimry
liirii'iiBi'H for Kovoriiniont oiiiploy
oii ii t'fi lioconilim nu'i-o mul nioro
out ot tin- iiui'Hiion. m 1,"Hi;-
ilu. irovornilionl ilnll '
loalllK II llllllllH'r "f oal'ill'lo boh
iiiiih, who flml Ihoy oanlii'l "l'i"il
tlionmolvoii uml Ihclr fainlllo" "
tholr miIiii'Ioh. ,
Tim fliimii'o nilnlitry I'"" 1""'n
linrlloiilnrly hnrd lilt I" tn' "'
many of IIh hoM no.-,.iiiitniil,
HliillHlli-liiun "tin oxprrt" I" Vl" "
I.....IIIL' I, .I'll lllllll'Oll I"
nil or hlK ImnUliiK-oiilomirliioB nt
immlruiiloil KiilniloK. Th I"'"!" '
nf piihllii work", t'". H ffnl
BOl'IOUH IIIBHOM Ol BIllHi" I"",' ,,,
Whon nn oiiKlnoor tiiilno.l h.v I "
dtnto hiia wrvoil 10 om 1" K'y
oiiinioiil employ lie Ib fro" ln "'
nlKii. Willi row oxeoi't 'o"" 1h
onKlnooiB now flnlBhliiK tli'lr H
cnilo of Kovoililliont wirvlro m
lihiniiliiK to cnlor nrlvato "'"'
Tho four that forolKii InloroBly
mlKhl Bomo ilay K"l o""H"
thn lliink of Kriinoo. BiiKKOHioil hy
rooont I in port ii n I tiiiiiHintloii" Hi
Imnk BluiroH for forolmi ni'ooiii I. "
rtoolmoit hy tlio luiiili t" I'" K'-oui -Iobb.
KorolKiiotB may huy nil ' 0
BlmroB of tho hunk w 1 1 Ii o u I K ' ' ' "
l.,B ronlrol. It l "...Icl. I o ii bo
only Kioiuli cIIIhoiib nro "I'""''''
In vnto t tho moolliiKB iimlcr tho
Blntiitoa of tho Institution.
n.i.- i.,.nk nf Kruno nn
(mvornod tn.lny H In mont ''BpootB
tho Bnnio nn whon It wn w nj
llohori IV Nlllioioon. nun"'
wurklnKB to fit In with chuiiKOil
tiinoH hut tho provision romrlctliiK
conlrol of tho Kronen bank of
Iiihiio lo Kronili ollltoim roinalim
iini'hanKOil. .Sharon aro holiiK
hoiiuhl iihronil. II IB Milil. but as
a Kliuplo Invoiuini'iit lallior thnn
Willi " vlow to olilillll any iiiiiu
onro In tho inanaKoinont of tlio
1 ill nk.
...
Kornn r Piomlor rnlfllovo'B ship
of mate ooulil not nvolil "11 tho
ilaiiKorH In Its ooilrHO. im was
nhnwii when 11 ora.shoil on ine
lo. liB or nalloiml rinnnoo. Hill II
.11,1 avohl ono tronionilous nhoal
whlih mlKhl havo cau.ioil aorl
ouh I'liiliniTaNstnent.
Thin ooourri'il ilurlliK tho Pnlu
lovo onliliiol'B Iiihi ilayn. AnloiiK
I ho orlKliml prnpiiBiiiB lor ino ro-
Hloratloll of the Kronen troil'-ov
was ono for an exceptional mi
nima! oonlrlhlllloll In ho levloil on
nil BiilnrloB of nioro than LTlIIOO
iraneB. When the propoHiil went
l...f.,ri tho eahlllel. luiwover, nn
Influential nieniher reninrkoil Im
moillatoly: "Why, ilon't oven
think of BUih n flKiire, my ilenr
premier! You fnlKi't that tho
Hillary ot a ilopmy 1 27,000
Irniii'H." , ,
Whereupon tlio onhlnot linnnl
mouHly ruined tho limit to 80,000
fnuicB. ( t t
MiiiHhnl .Tnffro hns nilmlttoil
that ho has written hl niomoiiB
of tho wnrlil war hut nalil that tho
tlino Iiiib not yet como to ihiIiIIbIi
llieni.
"1 am mill In notlvo norvlco, ho
oxnllllli". nlluillliK t" Hi" f""1
that Ihoro Is no retlrlnit nKo for
nmi'BhnlB of Krillieo who nro siili
leet toehlllenlly, illlliiiK their lllo
tlmo to roKiilntloiis which for
1,1,1 nrinv oflieors III notlvo servleo
to piihllHh niiylhliiK I" connection
wllh mniy iiintlors.
Aiiiwine:h ilieir mothora ro
Bhlimloil nnil Blinrii, ImililB nnil
tlllllKOOH " ... llln." nf
i. .ini.nen leiinen ,,i,vn
Kails. Tho nlKht of limit hnlroil
,,.., i,ia leil lv short hnlroil
,.,n,or In ono of the pnriuloxoB
of I ho Hue ilo In Pnlx t""Bt "";
monloit on hy visnorn uu i""".
Tho roiiBon, Kronen wnii.e.
.....l.. I lhn rinnlnOSB "f fllBllloH
The pollcv of short to.lny. lonR to
........ ;,..i. no such mennoo
l tho future of mninliiil "f It d"
" Vi. in- iinuirhtor who lins
! .nil in mnko, Tn
lnml of ih'wry "ml il"inotlclly
vl.llllK Kill" cnnllot nffiud trt out
l,ff hnlr Hint i"".v " T0""
. .. orown nr Klory.
it' is plnln enflo of n hnlr on tho
ho,," hol'iK worth two In tho hopo
'"Kronoh Rlrl" ronnril with nmniso
mont I ho prohlRilto short eroppoil
Amorl '.in Rlr'B on tho l.oulovnr.ls.
M nv of Hi" ll'll" AmorlonnB hnvo
never known tho fool of l.inK hnlr
except on tholr mothers drosshiB
''"'ilnnv French Rlrl rolehrnte
.. . " .i....i .rnvn nco hy l"h-
oioir iii":" ", "; , ,,,,. onco
K'i. . in li. S or Hni "
the locks aro off however, they
regard fanhion with suspicion,
watch each fluctuation toward
lone halt styles.
Spanish fhawls have come sud
denly hark into favor with the
I'iirlnleuno iui Indirect result of
iho "bloodless bullfights" held In
the Koman arena In Paris re
cently for the benefit of wounded
so Id it rs in Morocco and Syria, All
the Spanish American colony in
Paris attended ho bull fights and
many of tho women went In cos
tume, hnnglng tholr shawls over
the box fronts. Tho vogue has
now spread to tho theatres on the
boulevards which are beginnins
to reaomhlo bull rings themselves.
with gorgeously colored Spanish I
shawls suspended from tho dross I
circle almost every evening.
"Your kaiser Isn't worth as
much as my broom!'1 This taunt
In 1 U 1 S cost Mmo Justlno Hoffman
six months in jail nt Mctz for "les
niajoste" hut brought her a war
modal from tho French govern
ment in 11)5, Mmo Hoffman, who
Is GO years old, was ordered by
Gorman officers to sweep a street
of the capital of Lorraine.
then German territory. down
which tho kaiser was to drive. Her
rofusnl sont her before a court
martial.
Tho "Charleston," tho most dis
cussed dance in Kurope these days,
has surmounted alt opposition
hero and despite contrary predic
tions seems likely to become the
most popular dance in France.
Unqualified approval of the
American jnfcz step was voted re
cently hy tho association of French
dancing maulers.
A special exhibition of tho
"Charleston" ns It was orlglnnlly
and all Its variations was pre
sented by tho association, to the
music of nn American negro
orchestra. Meanwhile, tho pub
lic has not waiter for the dancluff
mnsters but hns gone ahead with
Its own variety of "Ciiaflcnton"
In tho ParlH cnbarets and danco
hulls.
Houth ' Americans hero have
taken up the step with enthusiasm
und Keep tho orchestras, pro t dr
ably negro, plnylng away long
after normnl closing times. At
the Mlehodlcro cabnret. one of
tho newest and smartest In Purls,
nn.rtlos of Argentines appear al
most evry night, bringing their
guitars and supplementing the
negro Jnzx hand.
The vlllnge of Hoppstatten, nonr
Frankfort, hns Just missed having
tho nt'st puro petticoat govorn
meat in Germnnv.
Disgusted with pnrty squabbles
in the little town, a group of male
voters ns a Jokn mimed UP
ticket containing only women's
names. Tho electorate foiiowen
th'n lend and Inlned In tho fun
electing the women's ticket by an
overwhelming majority. Tho suc
cessful candidates, however, were
ho frightened by being thrust bo
suddenly into tho limelight and
hy tlm governmoutul burdens fac
lm; them that they roulgned tholr
now off iron be r ore they wero In
augurated. Porting In garments they aro
now too poor to buy, hundreds of
wjrloty girls are earning a living
by working nine and ton hours
a day an iiiunneuliiH In the more
exclusive lierlln fuHhlon shops.
JJaughters of army officers, gov
ernment officials, physicians and
business men. Impoverished by the
world war and pout war Inflation
frankly admit that they are forced
to supplement the family income
to maliitain a semblance of their
former station in life.
Of tho 4000 mannequins In
iJerlln It is estimated that 25 per
con I aro listed In social registers.
They nro paid from $62 to $100
a month, though many whose
names are imperially well known
and are looked upon hy the mod
iste as drawing cards get twice as
murh iih the average. There Is no
one in IJerlln however, whose sal
ary approaches the $10,000 a year
paid by a Madrid shop for the
service:! of the Spanish countess
Vlilalbu.
Asked why iihe chose to he a
mannquin rather than do some-
Jn the- steeply lit )c town of Polzlnt
manufacturer on the verge of
bankmptry said that as n manne
quin she was given an importunity
or wearing for a few hours a day
at least the gowns which formerly
adorned her own wardrobe "by
education end training' Khe said,
"wo are probnhly more fitted for
this line of work than anything
else."
There Is a model's school In
Berlin's fashionable west end
where prospective mannequin
muy learn the fine points of the
trade In two weeks or a month.
The school Is supported by a num
ber or largo style shops but Is
open to all on payment of a small
fee.
In the sleepy Htle town of Polzln
a woman living In room 28 of tho
only hotel around suspicion by
taking all her meals In her room
and declining to mingle with other
guests.
it was whispered about that she
was n man In disguise. ' Others
started the rumor that the "lady
In room 28" was a secret agent
of another Kuropean power.
A detective was called into In
vestigate. The mysterious air in
whlrh he enveloped himself added
to the general curiosity. He was
nearly mobbed, however, for fail
ing to produce a sensation. After
several days he blandly announced
that the lady In room 28 "merely
had her hair dyed faultily." ' She
Is neither blonde nor brunnette,
neither blackhalred nor gray, and
of courso she does not care to
meet people" he said.
The old fashioned doll with the
Innocent baby blue eyes, gingham
dress and long golden locks hns
come back in style. Doll fashion
experts hnve decreed with the
approbation of shopkeepers that
the sophisticated looking play
things of tho last few years aro
a menace to childrens' morals.
The edict has gone out for the
Christmas season that children
must be given playthings they can
understand. They fail to realize
why a doll face should bo rouged,
tho eye lashes and eyebrows
painted and the dresses cut like
evening gowns. ' Instead of fondl
ing a baby, doll modistes say. a
child cannot, help but realize that
It is nursing a miniature of Its
mother.
ano time, too. Jf baby Is a year!
'old. he Is comparatively nare.
A very significant finding in that
four Union as many artlflcally-fod
babies died us breajt-fed babies.
That mother who nurses her banc
hns Tour time the chance of keep
ing It.
August Is the time to look out
Tor stomuch and Intestinal trouble.
It Is not a good month in which
to wean the baby. Best to nurse
him through tho hot months, If
you can.
Jn February, when the ventila
tion In the house is poor, there is
the greatest trouble with lung di
seases. Jn August, when fresh air
.Is everywhere, the least.
Five boy babies die to every fouf
girl babies. Delft neglect the care
of tho boy.
Sleep, fresh air, mother's milk
these are the trio which will make
the baby safe and sound.
Vogue of the Twill Frock
Almost Kvery "Wardrobe of
MaJd and Matron Boasts a
Simple Dress in Wool for the
Autumn Season.
SMARTEST FROCKS TIE IN FRONT
The Fall Collection of Gowns Boast New and Distinctive
Lines Both in Silks and Twills
-S
Fifth Ave. Feature
White Felt Hats
"White felt hats wero recently
featured on Fifth Avenue, wun
so much ermine and white furs be
ing employed for coat trimmings,
white hats might very well be
chosen as successful complements.
They are alsu stressing the impor
tance of t,he white hat for eany
Soft, new woolens are smart for
daytime wear. And almost every
wardrobe boasts a simply cut frock
of twill or tweed to be worn be
neath the warm topcoat.
The cut in the newest models Is
decidedly complicated, and yet
there Is evident a simplicity which
is charming. The flare, which la
inevitable in even the severest
dresses. Is becoming In the woolen
materials for street. Short skirts.
which are decidedly the vogue, are
accompanied by sleeves which are
long and usunlly effectively trim
med on tho lower part.
The bolero type of frock, which
is decidedly new. is most success-
The fabric, though important, is
by no means the guiding spirit ol
chic in the fall mode. The gown
may appear In almost any fabric
and flaunt a 1925 banner If it pos
sesses the new silhouette.
At present Paris divides the
mode into several types of silhou
ettes mainly the flare, the fitted,
and the bustle. Of course, these
tendencies are often, combined in
one frock and so create a gown of
real distinction.
A smart note In the mode is the
gown which ties in the front. The
tied-ln-the-front effect is not ex
clusive to frocks, but also -lends an
air of chic to many of the newest
coats and wraps.
The bolero frock, the newest ex
ample of feminine chic, often com
bines with the tie-in-the-front and
achieves original lines.
In the evening frock of chiffon,
where graceful lines are enhanced
by godets, flounces and flares, the
bolero is also seen in combination
with a smartly tied bow in the
front. !"
For the daytime, both in severe
lines or In a softened silhouette,
the frocks which tie in front are
among the favorites. In twills, vel
vets and velveteens, for the heav
ier materials, and in chirrons.
Bilks and crepes for the more,
formal frock, or In some occasions,
combined materials, offer a note -of
distinction In this type of gown..
In a scene from her newest film.
Dolores Casslnelll wears a smart
afternoon frock which ties smartly
tn front.
.s The dress is ot chiffon, ( banded
smartly In lace insertions! drawn
up In front, and girdled ln velvet
which also ties into an effective
bow in front. The sleeves are
long, and,- while new In line, do
not puff, but open ln wide length
at the wrist. A cape of lace is a
graceful addition to the somewhat
straight lines of the back.
Miss Casslnelll wears her frock
fairly short, and this will be found
a popular length throughout tho
winter despite the efforts in Parla
to lengthen the skirts.
OBEDIENT MOTHERS VERY UNWISE
Matrons Who Seemingly Are so" Independent Often Permit
Their Children to Order Them About Arbitrarily
souu ern wear, i no nuw yro ! ul in the twUl frock Itg simpiCi
with cut-out sections of tho felt
on the crowns to reveal underlays
of silver cloth. Dry Goods Economist.
Metal Kid vtHi
The vogue for metallized kid Is
expressed In the new collar and
cuff flets which the important shops
along Fifth Avenuo aro showing.
rhey come In gold aixl stiver Kid
with all-over cut-out motifs. Some
what newer than these are those
sets made of colored velvets with
edges bound with tho gold or silver
kid.
Hnlr Is Cut hhortcr
Hair is cut even shorter than
la lit year and pushed straight back
trom tho forehead. No curls. Tho
very smartest women wear their
hair absolutely without undulation,
slicked buck to the head with one
twist right down over tho forehead
or into tho cheeks.
Black Velvet Revived
as Bap; Material
ty and dash are appealing to
youth and are also most becoming.
The complicated cut is seen.
even In the simplest frocks. No ;
longer Is tho tubular type of frock
worn. In its place bus come a
frock which is so subtly cut as to
suggest the curves of the body.
Drupery appears again, frequently,
to give the uneven hem line.
Twills are smart when used to
fashion the tunic frock, where an
Inverted pleat is frequently used
to break lines that are too straight
for the season's mode.
Beige which is always smart. Is
used In many of the new one-piece
frock, either ns a flat color or In
hurmony with some deeper shade.
Long, tight sleeves, a suggestion
of a flare, und the up-ln-front line.
are all particularly smart in the
twill or woolen fabric. They are
lines which are easily adapted to
heavy materials and are in acuord
with the feeling of mode.
Anna Q. Nllsson, who appears in
a romantic film, wears a smart lit
tle daytime frock of beige twill
that is very new aim vory cnic.
Black velvet as a smart material
for bags has Just boon revived by
two or throe of the lending manu
facturers within the past, few weeks,
says tho Dry ' Goods Economist.
iicse men have foreseen tnnt uio
great popularity of velvets and
velveteens In the present mode wilt
undoubtedly create a demand for
smart handbags in the same ma
teria 1.
Bags for formal wear cannot be
too elaborately decorated. Motifs
of colored leather, or allover em
broidery, ln the Art Decoratlf man
ner, trim those lovoiy ungs. ior
ovenlng wear tho Midas touch of
trold 1. almost do riguour. These
golden bags may be of metallic kid
or of gold net and lame.
Baby Care and Statistics
The causes of hnby deaths havo
been widely Investigated by exports
and many facts discovered wnicn
frro eloquent In tholr lessons on
baby cars. For example, the first
month Is a vory tender ago. Nenrly
half tho bablea who die. die then.
Ioa than ton per cont of baby
.dea tlm occur during the second
month and nt the ago of one year
only four per cent.
The mother should hnve expert
help In caring for the delicate baby
during the first month the great
est care should bo then exerted.
Tho second month la oil lmport-
Rayon Taking- Silk's
Place in Corsets
One of tho loading corset mnnu
facturers made tho statement re
cently that npproxlnmtely 80 per
cont of what looked like silk in hhs
line was actually rayon, according
to the Dry Goods Economist. To
such nn extent has rayon estab
lished itself in the corset field. Its
luster. Its washing properties. Its
suppleness, nnd Us price have been
largely responsible for us groat
popularity. When the boneless
garment and tho new molded sil
houette became so Important ln the
mode a material softer and more
clinging than n brocade had to bd
found to achieve the proper result,
ltnyon has proved tho material par
excellence for this type of garment.
Black Hatfl
There ts a marked activity In the
millinery market says the Pry
Goods Economist, duo to tho Inrgo
number of reorders that are com
ing ln from stores which bought
rather lightly nt the beginning of
tho season. There Is a notlceablo
demand for black hats of every de
scription and size. Off-the-fnce
models in a combination of velvet
and satin nre extremely popular
sellers. Matrons' hats of Hatters
plush with rlbhod and metalllo
.trims aro wanted.
MRS. W. B. BAILEY
"Oh, Dr. Parks, how glad I am
to see you!' exclaimed Mrs.
Barker, welcoming a former col
lege teacher who had been an in
spiration to her in her work. "I've
been so anxious for you to see my 1
home and chlldreit ever since I
learned you were in town."
The home was indeed cosy with
all of the touches which Indicate a
real home in which children may
live a happy life. The children.
LeRoy and Elnora, both splendid
looking little tots, were shown and
complimented. Then the mothor
and the teacher began a conversa
tion on topics of common interest.
"Mother, como an' get me some
thing to eat!" interrupted Elnora.
Not now, please. Idon t want
you to eat yet."
Mother, l m nungry, wnineu
the little girl.
That's all right, won t you
please run and play?"
"No, I won t. I'm hungry, and I
want something to eat."
"Dear me!" And the exasperated
mother went to get the child what
she wanted.
Soon she returned and the con
versation was resumed to be
broken In a few seconds.
"Mother, come here," demanded
Le Roy from without.
"Mother Is busy, dear what do
you want 7"
"Mother-r-r, come here!" a more
urgent command.
Mother went. She had scarcely
resumed, tho talk when both chil
dren rushed wildly into the room.
MOh,i. mother, give mo a nickel, '
they demanded in concort.
"What for?"
"Wo want something."
"You don't need a thing, and I've
no nickel for you." ,
"Yes, we do; we want an Ice
cream cone. Hurry, mother! The
Ice cream man is coming now."
"You are not hungry. You have
Just finished eating."
"We are hungry. We want Ice
cream!" The whines were becom
ing roars.
"Pteaso go play with your toys,
children, mother wants to talk to
Professor Parks"
"Give us-a nickel!" Both yelled
louder nnd louder as they stamped
and kicked.
"Dear, dear! Do for goodness
sake, stop that noise! Any one
fould think you were being killed.
Here, take this nickel and. do not
nsk mo for another for a week."
The howls censed nt once, and
the children scampered away.
The professor however was dis
couraged, and making his excuses
he left, wondering how one of his
most brilliant pupils, one who had
always seemed so Independent,
could allow children to order her
about In such a manner. Then he
felt pity for the children. Finally
he shrugged his shoulders and
with a whimsical smile said to
himself, "So often in public ad
dresses I have bemoaned the fact
that we are a nation lacking dis
cipline, a land of disobedience.
Perhaps I had better recant and
say we are a nation of strict dis
cipline, a land noted for obedience
on the part of the mothers, Who
go promptly at tne can ot emi- .
dren whom they permit to order
them about day atter day a land
of obedient mothers, a land where
mothers make the requests and
children command."
And what of the children' so
reared? How can mothers expect
teachers to deal successfully with
them ln tho schoolroom after such
lack of discipline ln the home?
"If wars are to cease and-democracy
Is permanently to hold
the field, It will be democracy with
sufficient wisdom to confide this,
Its most responsible task (teach
ing) to its most competent citizens,
and to prepare them thoroughly
for Us safe discharge."
In the kindergarten, the little
child gets his first lessons In de
mocracy, They are gently taught,
happily learned and never to be
forgotten.
Is there a kindergarten to which
the children of your community
may go? If not, It would be worth
your while to try to get one opened.
The National Kindergarten asso
ciation, 8 West Fortieth street.
New York, will gladly aid you.
Write for advice and leaflets.
For God and Country Day
In "Tho Relation of tho Kinder
gnrten to Social Reform," Kate
Douglas Wiggins says, "Ah to
specifically religious culture,
everything fosters the spirit out of
which true religion grows.
"In the morning talks, when tho
children are most susceptible and
ready to be good,' as thoy say,
their thoughts are led to the beau
ty of the world about them, the
pleasure of right doing, the sweet
ness of kind thoughts and actions,
the loveliness of truth, patience,
and helpfulness, and the goodness
of tho Creator to all created things.
No parent, of what ever creed or
lack of creed, whether a bigot or
unbeliever, could object to the
kind of religious Instruction given
In the kindergarten; and yet In
every possible way the child-soul
and the chlldheart are directed
towards everything thnt Is pure
and holy, true and steadfast." -
Are the chlldron of your com
munity receiving kindergarten
training? If not, a letter to the
national kindergarten association,
8 West Fortloth street, New York,
will bring you advice and helpful
literature.. ;
The folding comb now comes in
only the very expensive hags, but
If the demand for It grows, many
will' see how essential It has be
come to the bobbed haired woman,
flcntluiia