lyiM dm tm i ' i ii
c,.rdE'-ening' Ma? 9' 1925
THE EUGENE GTJAKD
Page Seven
jfsUMMER, THE ENSEMBLE TO BE CHOICE
GeMip Will Replace tne Loat ana b3 Popular for Both Morning and Afternoon
Wear, Declares Fashion' Authority
it the left is a summer ensemble of gray crepe romaln. A gray wolf collar, front and border add chic
to this wrap-around coat, made without sleeves. The dress has long sleeves, which serve, a dual purpose.
The magenta wool-kasha ensemble in the center Is a graceful model. Lined with a like color Elizabeth
crepe. The dress has long flowing sleeves of tan with a touch of embroidery. In the sleeve of the coat
in narrow slit through which come two long streamers. At the right Is a creation of taupe chiffon. The
vekeind front panel of the dress are done in pin tucks, which also form a greater part of the tie-front
cut The collar and scarf are In one piece and can be worn in several ways loose, around the neck,
or hanging down the back.
Bj HORTENSE SAUNDERS '
(KEA Service "Writer)
VEW YORK, May 0. "The en
irmbls costume has passed the
tijxrimental stage and has become
lie leading influence in style," Henri
Bodel, New York's famous creator
ef women's styles, says.
Tbecostume idea prevails through-
oat the mode and has regoJed to
Kcoodary importance the separate
(rock and the coat that does general
Jcty.
This is ro line with the genernl
dtfince and harmony women have
tittered. It is likewise distinctly
feminine and consistent with the
mod in costuming which places im-
portance on the completed product.
including the accesories, rather than
do one distinct feature such as the
foirn or wrap.
For Summer Wear
"The summer costume for morning
ud tfternoon is the ensemble. For
aiming there is the frock of printed
liik, or possibly plain crepe do chine
vita a light wool wrap lined with the
naterial of the frock, and for after-
1 there are the ensembles of silk
ind crepe de chine or chiffon."
Typical of the summer ensemble
the taupe chiffon model pictured
with this article. Tho coat ties in
front with a collar that is really a
scarf and may bo worn in a number
of ways. The dress is on simple, but
subtly molded lines with a self yoke
and pin tucks at the side.
"Though of chiffon, the coat is un
lined, but is as carefully tailored as
a heavier material might be." Mr.
Bendel remarked. "This is the type
of garment we may expect to see at
all the smart summer reBorts and it
will bo proper for informal dinner
wear as well as the tea dnnsent and
all social affairs."
Another distinctive model iB the
graceful coat, slightly suggestive of
Japanese lines, made of magenta wool
kasha lined with Crepe Elizabeth of
the same color, which material also
makes the long waisted frock. The
dress has flowing sleeves of tan with
a bit of embroidery.
Though tho other model has much
fur at the collar and hem, it is sleeve
less but the dress has long sleeves
which serve for dress and coat. This
is of gray crepe romain, with gray
wolf.
Fragile but Practical
"At first glance these costumes
seem impractical because of the fra
gility of tho material," Mr. Bendel
said. "It is a distinct innovation to
use chiffon and crepes for coats.
And yet these wraps give just the
protection that is needed in midsum
mer, and they complete the costume
in the most effective manner.
"It has always been a problem to
make smart the sheer frock, which is
necessary for comfort in summer.
The ordinary wrap ruined the effect,
and to the conservative woman, a
wrap is always a necessity. This sea
son one may be both comfortable and
extremely smart.
"The lme of the ensemble is of the
greatest importance. No matter how
much fullness and freedom is allowed
by skillful cutting, the effect is that of
slenderncss and long, elegant lines.
"In colors, beige, in the new pink
ish shades, and grays are probably
the most popular, but the shades of
red, blue nnd brown are also used for
these ensembles.
"If the costume is of decided color,
the hat usually mntches it exactly.
With the neutral-toned costume, the
hat is often of brilliant color accentu
ating the costume.
"While skirts in general are short,
the length of the skirt should be de
termined by the stature of the
wearer.
"The ensemble must achieve har
mony of line, color and design. If it
fails in any of these details, it fails
utterly."
pretending to have a good time when
they were bored to tearal
And they are just as ready to read
with some "bookish" fellow when he
cornea courting. Or to dance till
dawn with the "sheik" type of wooer.
A girl will do almost anything
preteud almost anything, to gain the
admiration of the particular man she
happens to have sec her heart upon.
But it's one thing for ber to make
herself charming and agreeable to
everyone of ber men friends . . .
and quite another when marrying
time comes 'round.
For a happy marriage cannot be
founded on camouflage. It a girl has
pretended to be interested in books
because she was in love with a liter
ary man, marriage is sure to "show
her up." For it has a way of stripp
ing all of us of our poses and pre
tences. You cannot pretend to be
something you are not oti5 days in
the year.
The cleverest thing a girl can do
is not to try to make herself over to
suit some man or other. What she
wants to do is to look him over to
see if he measures up to what she
desires in a husband.
If two people have a single taste
in common, even if it's only a liking
for cards or movies they have a ,
chance of happiness together.-
But if the husband is a comfortable
"low brow" sort of person with a
hankering for loud ties and Sunday
golf, while his spouse harbors a pas
sion for Friday musicales and Ibsen
drama clubs, what chance have they
of ever being pals? . . . They don't
even talk the same language.
The only fair thing for a woman in
love to do is to be perfectly honest
about herself.
Sh would be dreadfully upset if
her finance falsely told her he had
a million dollars and a country place
on the Hudson. She would think him
deceitful, to say the least.
And it's just as deceitful for her
to give a man the impression that
, she'd not only a beauty, but a wit, a
prire housekeeper and a wonderful
cook, unless she is. But how many
' cirls do it!
Then after marriage, tney rest on
their oars, and their wedded career
goes on the rocks.
llubby finds out that not his Blush
ing Bride, but her Capable Mother
prepared the Sunday night suppers,
to which he was bo often invited in
the Old Home. He discovers that she
cannot cook at all!
He finds out that his wife's culture
is no deeper than the color on her
cheeks, and rubs off quite as readily!
Then comes Disillusion. Ana u s
not a little thing. It sends more
conn lea to the divorco courts every
year than any other ono thing in the
world !
(Conllcurd from pate aii)
WOMEN ARE HELD INDIFFERENT
Femlnlit Leader Declares Suffraae In Many Lands Is Delayed by
Women Themselves
; t.V Vfvr A AkTvSi
I
cause they were willing to be that,
because it was easier to be that.
"Most women just wait for things
to come to them instead of going out
after them. They want men to hand
them what they lack the initiative to
get for themselves.
"If we could organize (he women
of South America for suffrage, wo
could have it easily and we will
have it soon but we are being held
back by tho indifference of women
rather than men.
Though South America has been
slower than United States in granting
political rights, Miss Lutz pointed out
that much progress has been made
there by the women who have wanted
to achieve. All professions in Brazil
are open to women.
"We not only have women doctors
and lawyers, but engineers, chemists
and aviators," she said proudly.
"All our universities have always
been open to women. But in business
women are given only subordinate
positions and the pay in considerably
less than it is for men. Tbero are
many women in industry, mostly in
textiles, but in all the workshops wo
men are underpaid and the general
conditions are very bad. With suf
frage and women's co-operation we
could have protective legislation for
women and much greater industrial
opportunities."
Miss Lutz herself Is prominent
professionally. She is secretary of
the national museum 'of Brazil and
hus drne much medical resesrch
work for the laboratory of the Bra
zilian government.
"All's Fair" no Slogan
for Happiness
Cynthia Grey Writes on Things
That Are "No Fair"
Slip Covers for
The Chairs
If you havo the time and inclina
tion, spend it making slip covers far
the backs nnd seats of your chairs
such as aro shown here. Tho cush
ioned, or tufted, slip covers shown on
the back of tho chair, as well as the
sent, make for comfort and neatness.
ively used for the occasion. During
the afternoou Mrs. I. IJ. Hulin and
Arthur Hendershott gave a violin
duet, accompanied by Mrs. Hender
shott. Mrs. Torrey invited for the
afternoon, Mrs. P. J. Bartle, Madam
Westfall, Mrs. W. B. Neal, Mrs. O.
K. Hunt, Mrs. J. I. Fisher, Mrs. C.
1. l.ee. Mrs. E. h. Packard, Miss
Elisabeth Hay, Mrs. M. K. Cameron,
Mrs. L. li. Hulin, Miss Lottie Loomis,
Mrs. Ralph Kliot, Mrs. U L. Baker,
Mrs. Price Speer, Mrs. K. X. lrew.
Mrs. G. E. Iehman entertained
Suirs Us club member at her home
Tuesday with an attractive luncheon.
Delta Gamma Alumnae association
members were guests of Mrs. Hawley
(J. lteymer at her home Monday eve
ning for a combined social and busi
ness meeting.
Mrs. Harry Dunbar was hostess for
a delightful affair at her homo Mon
day nfternoon. entertaining members
of Itide-A-Wee club. Mrs. Dunbar
invited as special guests, Mrs. 1. D.
N. Wade, Mrs. John Holms and Mrs.
Hoy Booth. lu two weeks Mrs.
Charles Hardy U to entertain tho club.
On Thursday nfternoon Mrs. Harry
iMinuar aim iliva Amy Dunn were
hostesses for the meeting of Thurs
day Sewing club, entertaining with a
luncheon at the Osuurn hotel and
going later to Mrs. Dunbar's home.
The Little Club Around the Corner
is to meet the .ciming Thursday eve
ning at the home of Mr. and Mrs,
CI. W. Davis.
Mrs. Fred Chess is to entertain
Kill Karo Klub nt her home the com
ing Thursday afternoon.
V
Mrs. IT. W. Thompson of San Frnn-
cisco left yesterday noon for her
home after a visit of two weeks with
her parents, Mr. and Mrs. J. S. Mag-
ladry of this city.
Mr. nnd Mrs. Wilson B. Coffey
entertained very informally at their
home Thursday evening at a buffet
supper, the party later going to the
opening of the Lowell theater. The
guests were Mr. and Mrs. Keith Rig
ging, Mr. nnd Mrs. Lugene S. Kelt;
and Mr. and Mrs. Arthur Morris.
The Monday Book club is to be
entertained Monday nt the home of
Mrs. A. L. Ingnlls with Mrs. lngalls i
and Mrs. John B. Bell as hostesses, j
Mrs. L. J. Temple is to lead the after- ;
noon's study of Oregon birds.
An interesting meeting of next
1 week will be that of the Ladies' aux
iliary of the F.ugcne chamber of com
merce on Wednesday evening nt seven-thirty
o'clock. Mrs. C. J. Daniel
is chairman of the committee of hos
tesses for tho evening and Is to be
assisted by Mrs. Fred Chess, Mrs.
Karl Curtis, Mrs. Hurry Cherry, Mrs,
llr.rris Cnrr, Mrs. Dan Clnrk, Mrs. K.
A. Doste, Miss Grace Dunn. This
meeting will bo next to the Inst one
which is lo hp held tho fonrth Wed
nesday of May at which time officers
will he elected and (he nnnual'li
(pict of the group given.
Home Menus
Breakfast Shredded fresh pine
apple, poached eggs on graham toast,
MA FERGUSON ON CHILD REARING
Texaa Governor Declares she Favors all Sorts of New Fangled
Methods
Dona Bertha Lutz
A rvi.-e Writer) - f edged lesd"r of the woman's suffrage
hoi Ia' 0 Impossible? movement in Stmth America.
, . She has come to this country to
M&,. n?"t P'nvnent fr min- i try to find out why so many womn
' ru suffrage workers in ' of this country are not using the
j . ! ballot, after they gsined it. Depute
, nt nt tuff rare and her criticism of women, olie it seek-
v., 'hf:n 'n many lands is ing suffrnge fr them becauM she
!trl - f f tir indiffertnce ! thinks they might to have it and not
' :t
r tfc
weaker tex, be-
U m lT " be that.
heflii theT wint it. lb tart.
"Our problem in Sowh America ii ,
not to covince men that women ought !
'iri3l irV i,rriaa l.utx. a Teryito be granted suttrsge, sne hj .
Uj l , - "J Ilraxilinn. who "The leading ones already acsnow.
V,, I . . fmst of South jelge it. But we teed to convince
mu .1 ! ! President r,f tK. i -AniM tht lhr nhntild ha it. Wo:
i "r the Kmsncipa-j men r not the weaker set because.
By CYNTHIA GREY
' LI8 fair in love and war.
1 A fine sounding old phrase, that
. . . but does it mean anything?
Does it fll the truth?
The late war taught os that such
things s dumdum bullets and the
willful murder of women and children
is "no fair" in war.
And there are jmt as many things
that are "no fair" in the all-abtorb-ing
business of love.
K'r instance there are girls who
will deliberately pretend to be inter
ested in a man's bobbies, simply be
cause they think that it is a good way
to interest the man, bime!f.
The strongest instinct that young
woman has is ber deire to please the
niatir.g male. It is part of ber sex
appeal Jut as the peacock's plum
age it pnrt of hit !
And she uses that appeal, of court.
I have seen girls (arid you probably
have, to) who would drng them
rfrn long weary mil nn an alt-day
bike to please some athletic man . .
By Mini AM A. FKBWSON
Governor of Texas
T AM an old-fashioned grsndmother
except when it cornea to child
health. I believe in all the new
fangled methods of rearing boys tnd
gins, in so far as they relate to physi-
cal well-being.
j 1 believe in the child's Bill of
; Rights that everv child should have
a fair chance to grow up healthy and
happy.
j I believe that every boms should
ibe a health center. I wish it were
possible for me as grandmother
; governor of Texas to map out and
! enforce certain home laws. I would
have a daily mom; tig in -potion of
every child fr evidence of acute dis
orders and for chronic conditions.
I would arrange for all children to
go to the dentist every six months,
(for babies tct have medif-sl examina
tion at birth, twu wteks, cos my nib,
three months, and every three months
thereafter until two years of sge,
then yearly, or even oftener If un
favorable symptoms arioe.
There should be a check np on the
condition of the mother's health, wi'h
provisnm for medial conMiitsiiiin
annrislly, and a pirnilar check-up on
the father's henlth.
I would have a rher-k tip on the
Military condition of the home, not
ing as filiation and possibilities for
unliiht.
I would rheck-up on the children's
diet to see that etch one ia getting
the kmd of food he tifedt for hit par
ticular age, and that he ia 1'sriting
o eat what he vhould and ia develop
ing regular babiia of rext, sleep and
elimination.
These are the rules which as gover
nor and grandmother 1 should like to
tee carried out in Texas and in every
stats in the union.
il "
f r j
j 1
"Ms" Ferguson '
I
t
With vacation and its ncoompanyin travel
days drawing nearer ami nearer, one's
thoughts turn occasionally to t ho luggage
question. "What luggage will I need how
does my present equipment look rather
ragged and forlorn? AVill L havo to borrow
a traveling bag or week-end case every time
I wish to take a jauntf
Now Is a BpU'iidid time to check up on this
important phase of your travol plana and
above all NOW Is a most uxcoUont time to
soled luKRRge. For tho M. & W. stocks aro
larger nnd more varied than ever;
Horo It la your pleasure to choose from Kiigeno's
finest stocks of luggapti Iukkurq combining depend
ability, utility nnd beauty to tho utmost) LugKnge
that you will bo proud to carry and display for it can
not help but attract admiring glancea wherever it
may bo station, hotel lobby, train, boat or Rtroet.
ARMY LOCKI3HS STEAM Kit TRUNKS ROX
TRUNKS WAnnilOlUC TRUNKS SUIT
CASKS FITTKD OVER-NIGHT CASKS HAT
ROXKS IN FACT, EVERYTHING.
All priced with moderation,
faau.iaas.iu.iiwjiSfl,H I.TyiTaT'
rice waffles, maple syrup, milk, cof-1
fee.
Luncheon Baked limn beans, let
tuce sandwiches, sponge cake pudding,
milk, ten.
Dinner Broiled herring, horserad
ish butter, srnllopd potatoes, but
tered spinach, rhubarb nnd strnw
borry pie, whole whwit bread, milk,
coffee.
The hutrer served with the fish
should not be given to children of
four years, of age nor should tlmy
hnvo the crust of the pie Hiiggeate'd
for the dinner dissert. Hut ns these
two dishes aro uti addition to the
menu for adults the recipes follow.
Rhubarb and Strawhorry Plo
Two cups rhubarb, I cup diced
strawberries, cup sugar, j cup
fine dried bread crumbs, 1 tablespoon
flour.
The rhubarb should be cut inlo
one-inch pieces before measuring.
Line a deep pie plate with a plain
paste. Sprinkle evenly over the crust
two tablespoons sugar and the flour
well mixed. Add one cup rhubarb
and one-half cup strawberries. Mix
remaining sugnr and bread crumbs
and sprinkle half of it over the layer
of fruit. Add remaining fruit and
sprinkle with remaining sugar and
crumbs. Cover with top crust and
bake, from 'to to 40 minutes In a
moderate oven.
Re sure the upper crust Is pressed
firmly over tho lower one to prevent.
Uie escape of juice. Moisten the
under edge well before fit t ing over
tho top.
An indigestible but "nummy" des
sert is made if this pie Is served
with whipped cream. 1 lowever, if
the main part of thn menl is planned
to be lacking in fut caloriea a rich
dessert nf thin Mort can be served
very comfortably,
4
London Gossip
0
lty MILTON ltUONNKU
(NKA Servico Writer)
J ONOON, May 8. Kurupeans, and
J especially Rritons, novcr lire of
poking fun at some tut bur place
names. For Instance, years ngo, when
Cleveland named his enhiunt, Mux -lidimcn
found it exquisitely funny
that ouu of tho ciildnetei'rs was Iloko
Smith.
Hut tho n vera go American, if ho
In looking for it, can find names over
hero and well-known names too
that sound juxt as funny to our ears.
For iiistnm-c, junI as a mere cample,
(hero nru two singers over hero who
aro very good and who aro fnvorilir
on tho concert stage and have a largo
following.
Their unities are:
Carrie Tubb.
Toots l'otiiids.
There is fl Count HechatcM, a mas
ter of tho fencing foil, who 1m known
in all tho Italian circles of Paris as
the "maestro. Not long iio ho gave
a marvelous exhibition of his skill
when pitted agniiiHt. n French fencer.
And before beginning tho contest,
ho in reported to have mode n very
remarkable peech:
"You should consider fencing ns rite
most nohle of sports, ns thn in out
apt to develop the psycho-physical fac
ulties of man and even of woman.
"Hut it is a sport which, while
strengthening tho muscles and invig
orating the nerves, ought also to ele
vate the spirit. So it does not bring
about duels.
"I Hay, to my pupils, 'Your mastery
of the steel ought to impose upon you
the lovo of your fellow man and re
spect for human life.' You ought lo
say to your weapon: 'Thou shalt not
kill."
A firm, which owns a big chain
of restaurants all over London and
which also sells pantry and candies,
has adopted a system of advertising
which strikes tho average visitor
from our wido of tho water as sheer
waste of space nnd money.
Ono of their proceedings la tn tnkn
a full page in a paper. One-half will
be giveu over to boosting, sny, their
chocolates at one dollar a pound. Tho
other part of the page will bo given
over to iwo columns of closely set
reading matter. It will bo "The Art
of Dining," by A, a well-known pore
or novelist, or "Cooking as One nt i
the Fine Arts," by H, a well-known
politician who has been In the cabinet.
The names of the writers are, of
course, carefully given. Ami each of
tbene t wo-coiuiin essays has some
where in it a brief mentbin of the
firm which is doing tho advertising, j
Hut to an American thero are nlwnvit
two wonder:
First- Thn t anybody will rend it.
SecondThat men of such eminence
will write it.
Just "Made for You"
THE BEST THERE IS
THERE ISN'T ANY BETTER
ClotlifH that have etylo, fit nnd runlity just inadi! to Miit your own
personality not only expressed your own individuality, but reflects
credit on your judgment ami dihcriininniion.
And it is nice to have your friends say: "Tlmt'a a nice suit, where
did you get it?"
You can reply with some pride that it came from an institution that
in an asset to the community because it ranks with tho best of de
signers and builders of clot.hi'S for particular people in the entire
northwest.
The fabrics are of the very best, the patterns the latest nnd tho
workmanship of the highest rpiality, and when designed by an expert
it gives a satisfaction that oomes from knowing that you are "just
right."
The nice weather is here and we are ready to do our part any day.
Eugene Clothing Co.
TAILORS
1033 Willmnctto Street Upstairs
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me ackiwwi-j men forced mem 10 (