COTTAGE GROVE SENTINEL • DECEMBER 12, 2018 • 9A Off beat Oregon: Range-wars veteran put Oregon on map as sheep country By Finn J.D. John For The sentinel T he notorious cattle- man-sheepman wars of the 1880s had not been good to John G. Ed- wards — known to friend and enemy alike as Jack. But then, they hadn’t been good to anybody. Edwards had been on the sheep side. On his Wyoming ranch and covering the nearby hills of public range- land, Jack had owned the largest fl ock of sheep in the country: over 100,000 of the wooly critters. Journalists called him the “Sheep King of America.” Th en had come the wars. Th e range wars were squabbles over public lands. Th ose lands were theoreti- cally open to everyone, but the people using it had a ten- dency to assume they had a right to keep others out. Most of the time this took the form of cattlemen and sheepmen fi ghting like Bloods and Crips, and the squabbling continued in deadly earnest until the fed- eral government changed its grazing-permit practices in the early 1900s. In those battles, Edwards and his employees gave as good as they got, and a number of cowboys as well as more than a few sheep- herders found their way into lonely graves on the wind- swept prairie as a result. But, winning or losing, it was not a life one could set- tle into. Th en one day in July of 1896, a gang of heavily armed cattlemen bent on convincing Edwards to yield the range to them got the drop on him, tied him up, and put a noose around his neck. When he refused to prom- ise to move his sheep, they lift ed him off the ground with the noose and let him dangle until he blacked out. He surely must have thought he was being lynched. Although he refused to give the cattlemen the assur- ance they demanded from him, this episode seems to have convinced Edwards that something had to change. So he started looking around for a place he could move to where he could raise his sheep and mind his own without having to deal with range-war drama — a nice big spread with lots of land that was good for little else but running sheep, with good access to public range- land and international ports. He found it in a spread 25 miles north of Prineville, in a place called the Hay Creek Ranch. T he Hay Creek had start- ed out as a 160-acre homestead, which a Bos- ton physician named David Baldwin bought in 1873 to try his hand as a sheep rancher. Although I haven’t been able to confi rm why Dr. Baldwin decided to leave the medical profession, usually when an urban professional did this sort of thing it was because he had contracted tuberculosis and had been advised to move to a cleaner, drier climate to recover. If so, Dr. Baldwin didn’t exactly rest in bed. On his new ranch he founded the Baldwin Sheep and Land Co. and stocked it with registered, purebred Span- ish Merino sheep hauled in from the East Coast; then Worship Directory First Baptist Church 301 S. 6th st • 541-942-8242 Interim Pastor: Reed Webster Sunday School 9:30am Worship Service 11:00am Youth Wednesday 6:30pm cgfi rstbaptist.com DRAIN: HOPE U.M.C. 131 W “A” St. Drain, OR 541-315-1617 Pastor: Lura Kidner-Miesen Fellowship & Song: 11:30am Potluck Lunch: 12:00pm Worship: 12:30pm First Presbyterian Church 3rd and Adams St 541-942-4479 Rev.: Karen Hill Worship: 10:00am Sunday School: 10:00am fpcgrove.com COTTAGE GROVE: 6th & Gibbs Church of Christ 195 N. 6th St. • 541-942-3822 10:00am Christian Education: Pre-K through 5th www.6thandgibbs.com Calvary Baptist Church 77873 S 6th St • 541-942-4290 Pastor: Riley Hendricks Sunday School: 9:45am Worship: 11:00am The Journey: Sunday 5:00pm Praying Thru Life: Wednesday 6:00pm Calvary Chapel Cottage Grove 1447 Hwy 99 (Village Plaza) 541-942-6842 Pastor: Jeff Smith Two Services on Sun: 9am & 10:45am Youth Group Bible Study Child Care 10:45am Service Only www.cgcalvary.org Church of Christ 420 Monroe St • 541-942-8565 Sunday Service: 10:30am Cottage Grove Bible Church 1200 East Quincy Avenue 541-942-4771 Pastor:Bob Singer Worship 11am Sunday School:9:45am AWANA age 3-8th Grade, Wednesdays Sept-May, 6:30pm www.cgbible.org Cottage Grove Faith Center 33761 Row River Rd. 541-942-4851 Lead Pastor: Kevin Pruett www.cg4.tv Full Childrenʼs Ministry available Services: 9:00am & 10:45am Delight Valley Church of Christ 33087 Saginaw Rd. East 541-942-7711 • Pastor: Bob Friend Two Services: 9am - Classic in the Chapel 10:30am - Contemporary in the Auditorium Hope Fellowship United Pentecostal Church 100 S. Gateway Blvd. 541-942-2061 Pastor: Dave Bragg Worship: 11:00am Sunday Bible Study: 7:00pm Wednesday www.hopefellowshipupc.com “FINDING HOPE IN YOUR LIFE” Living Faith Assembly 467 S. 10th St. • 541-942-2612 Worship Services Sundays: 9a & 11a Youth Worship Sundays: 11a (all ages welcome) Mondays: 5:30p (6th-12th grades) St. Andrews Episcopal Church 1301 W. Main • 541-767-9050 Rev. Lawrence Crumb “Church with the fl ags.” Worship: Sunday 10:30am All Welcome Seventh-day Adventist Church 820 South 10th Street 541-942-5213 Pastor: Kevin Miller Bible Study: Saturday, 9:15 am Worship Service: Saturday, 10:40 Mid-week Service: Wednesday, 1:00 Trinity Lutheran Church 6th & Quincy • 541-942-2373 Pastor: James L. Markus Sunday School & Adult Education 9:15am Sunday Worship 10:30 am Comm. Kitchen Free Meal Tue & Thur 5:00pm TLC Groups tlccg.com United Methodist Church 334 Washington • 541-942-3033 Pastor:Lura Kidner-Miesen Worship: 10:30am umcgrove.org “VICTORY” Country Church 913 S. 6th Street • 541-942-5913 Pastor: Barbara Dockery Worship Service: 10:00am Message: “WE BELIEVE IN MIRACLES” Non-Denominational Church of Christ 1041 Pennoyer Ave 541-942-8928 Preacher: Tony Martin Sunday Bible Study:10:00am CRESWELL: Sunday Worship:10:50am & 5:30pm Creswell Presbyterian Church www.pennoyeravecoc.com 75 S 4th S • 541-895-3419 Rev. Seth Wheeler Old Time Gospel Fellowship Adult Sunday School 9:15am 103 S. 5th St. • 541-942-4999 Sunday Worship Service 10:30 am Pastor: Jim Edwards website www.creswellpres.org Sunday Service: 10:00am Join in Traditional Christian Worship Our Lady of Perpetual Help and St. Philip Benizi Catholic Churches 1025 N. 19th St. 541-942-3420 Father: Joseph Hung Nguyen Holy Mass: Tue-Thu: 8:30am; Sat:5:30pm Sun: 10:30am Confession: After daily mass, Sat. 4-5pm or by appointment St. Philip Benizi, Creswell 552 Holbrock Lane 541-895-8686, Sunday: 8:30am he bought as many adjacent homesteads and acreages as he could and started irrigat- ing and planting alfalfa on them. Th e alfalfa would be the key to his success. But be- fore that could happen, his health failed. By the time Jack Edwards started looking into it, Dr. Baldwin had been out of the picture for some time, and the Baldwin Sheep & Land Co. was owned by a group of businessmen out of Port- land. He bought in in 1898, and by 1901 he’d arranged to buy his partners out and take over. Edwards had learned a thing or two from the range wars in Wyoming. Th e number-one thing he’d learned was that the key to not getting involved with range wars was not his fel- low sheepmen, nor the cat- tlemen who opposed them — it was the sodbusters, the homesteaders, who lived in the neighborhood. Back in the Wyoming wars, the sodbusters had been cordially hated by both sides, and vice-versa. But what Edwards had come to understand was that the homesteaders were there to make a home and a com- munity, not a buck. Th ey would rally and defend that community against anyone who was just there to make a buck; and if Edwards settled down and made his outfi t part of that community, they’d rally and defend him too. So the Hay Creek Ranch became the center of a sprawling rural frontier community of homestead- ers working 160- and 320- acre claims; and at the ranch, Edwards provided a general store and post offi ce for their convenience, and a school for their children. He also provided jobs for homesteaders who found themselves pinched for cash. And, of course, every time a sodbuster gave up and started looking to sell out, Edwards would be right there, in a perfect position to make an off er. Without range wars to worry about, Edwards could concentrate on what he re- ally wanted to do, which was develop the Hay Creek Ranch into the world’s pre- eminent sheep facility. Over the next ten years — a sur- prisingly short period of time, really — Jack Edwards did just that. In the process, he put northern Central Or- egon on the map. Th ese were the boom years for places like Shaniko — which, although it’s an al- most-ghost town today, was the largest wool shipping town in the Pacifi c North- west during this time. Edwards experimented with breeding, developing a colossal breed of sheep, weighing 200 pounds and covered with wool, that he named the Baldwin. He put in a mechanical shearing facility to speed the process of harvesting wool. And he bought or leased all the adja- cent land he possibly could, at every opportunity. His ranch got bigger and bigger, eventually covering 30,000 acres. Meanwhile, a little farther south in the state, the range wars were breaking out again. Th is time it was the Crook County Sheepshoot- ers — masked cattlemen try- ing to force the sheep herds off “their” public rangelands. Th eir technique was to creep up on sheepherders, tie them up or hold them at gunpoint, and just massacre their fl ocks. Th ey never moved against Jack Edwards, though. Th ey never dared. All the north- ern central Oregon sod- busters would have risen up to defend him. But the Sheepshooters were part of the reason Jack lost his empire. Th e federal government, tired of the an- archy and waste of the inces- sant range wars, tasked the U.S. Forest Service with set- ting grazing allotments on a per-rancher basis. Th is took the wind out of the sails of the Sheepshoot- ers. Th ere was no point in massacring herds of sheep if everyone’s grazing allotment was set in advance. But it also gave the For- est Service a suite of man- agement tools that it really didn’t yet understand how to eff ectively use. And in 1906, the forest service used one of those tools when it an- nounced it was cutting Ed- wards’ grazing allotment by 40 percent. Edwards negotiated the cut to 25 percent — a total of 30,000 sheep. He reduced his fl ock accordingly, and made his plans on that basis. But then, in 1909, they hit him with another 30 percent cut. At that point, no doubt concluding that he was too old to have to deal with get- ting his business thrown into chaos aft er every elec- tion year by a fresh crop of well-meaning Forest Service bureaucrats, Jack rode into Portland and made arrange- ments to sell everything off . “I mean no criticism of the government,” he told an Oregon Journal reporter, af- ter explaining the situation. “But the facts are as I have stated. Twelve months from the present date we expect to have our entire sheep hold- ings sold out.” And so he did. T hat wasn’t the end of Hay Creek Ranch, though. Not by a long stretch. Its new owners were able to contin- ue operating profi tably in spite of the grazing-alloca- tion cuts — in no small part because of the new Baldwin breed of sheep Jack had de- veloped. In fact, in 1927 the ranch sold 10,000 purebred Bald- wins to the Soviet Union as breeding stock — the largest single sale of large livestock to an overseas buyer in his- tory at the time. Unfortunately for the Rus- sians, most of these expen- sive “designer sheep” were eaten within a year of their arrival — and that surely was the most expensive mut- ton to ever pass human lips. Although the boom years of sending 500,000 tons of wool a year down the Co- lumbia are long past, the Hay Creek Ranch remains a going concern to this day. As for Jack Edwards, aft er he sold out he settled into a long and happy retirement in Portland, and took up painting. He died in 1945. (Sources: “Th e Sheep King of America,” an arti- cle by David Braly in Little Known Tales from Oregon History, a book edited by Geoff Hill and published in 1988 by Sun Publishing of Bend; “Hay Creek Ranch,” an article by Jarold Ramsey published March 17, 2018, on Th e Oregon Encyclope- dia at oregonencyclopedia. org; “Confl ict on the Range,” an article by Candy Moulton published Aug. 29, 2011, in True West magazine; and Th e Wooly West: Colorado’s Hidden History of Sheep- scapes, a book by Andrew Gulliford published in 2013 by Texas A&M University Press) Finn J.D. John teaches at Oregon State University and writes about odd tidbits of Oregon history. For details, see http://fi nnjohn.com. To contact him or suggest a top- ic: fi nn2@offb eatoregon.com or 541-357-2222. Worship With Us! Living Christmas Trees Our Worship Directory is a weekly feature in the newspaper. 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