»
number that were seen at a famous
hotel tearoom near Fifth avenue and
the park entrance, oiih was obliged to
acknowledge the prevalence of this
style The big Oelnsborough ehapes
exploited a year ego are no more The
present model» are picturesque to a
certain degree, but cannot compare
with tho lovely ones that have been
placed on can vase» for years anil from
lly JOHN C H A R I.E T O N
these very paintings, nearly all tho
««elusive shapes have been Idealised.
A striking feature with fall mlllluery
"You'll have to give up some of
Is the extensive use of colored facings
for black hats Yellow Is a prime fa those fool Ideas of your« If you expect
vorite. hut tt Is a discouraging color to marry me," said the Widow I-ong
for any but a perfect blond, or a rav emphatically, when her fiance limped
up to the door with a stout cane held
ishing brunette
In each hand. "I heard all about that
Tyrolean Hate.
The coquettish little Tyrolean hate accident of yours and I’m not going
so popular In vivid velours are also be to risk my future peace of mind by
ing offered In soft fells, and among having you go against the scripture
the different models are many »light and go cavorting around Into space!"
variations upon the original theino. • As she spoke the pretty widow skill
The height and six© of the crown, the fully assisted Hartholomew Jepson
width and roll of the brim vary, but Into her sitting room, carried his hat
the general character of the Tyrolean and overcoat Into the next room, prop
shape 1» the »arne. All such hat» are ped his wounded foot upon a comfort
posed low on the head, almost hiding able foot-rest and poured out a great
the hair uud completely eclipsing the tumbler full of sweet cider Hhe did
ear» and eyebrowa. Tho smartest It all an quietly and deftly that It
trimming» are the simplest, consisting, seemed like one continuous action In
aa they do, of a^nnrrow band through stead of a variety of ainall ones.
which Is thrust a long quill of fancy , Hhe sat down opposite him In a low,
feather or perhaps a »tiff cockade comfortable rocking chair and picked
made of »Ilk of f©Hth*-rs and arranged up the long braid of colored rag strips
at the hack or left side of the crown. she was making Into a mat. Hhe
In such case» where the crown 1» low tossed the braided end to Hartholo
er and wider than In regulation Tyro mew Jepson, and he who had often
lean shape» the trimming Is often waited upon her In like manner, held
It obediently while the widow's deft
more pretentious
('hainola and champagne tone» give fingers flew hack and forth. In and
promise of ■ strenuous vogue a little out weaving the bright colored rag
later on
Many of the elaborate Im strips Into a smooth flexible braid.
portations are In these color». Fro- | Hartholomew watched her wttb en
quently the shade» nre shown In com chanted eyes. He admired her small
bination with white, but up to the supple sun browned Angers and when
present time the whim ha» not created he lifted his admiring gaxe to her
any decided Impression Perhaps the dimpled face he expected to see the
most attractive hats In these colors customary crtukly smile about her
have been made In the smalt, high- eyes and lips. Instead of the smile
crowned shapes covered with taffeta, he was confronted with a frown—In a
satin or velvet, and with narow droop plainer person one would have called
ing or close rolling brim* faced with It a scowl.
contrasting material A model which 1 "What Is the matter, I.lbble?” he
was chic In an unusual degree had a asked unenstly.
"Matter with what?” she demanded,
high, »oft white felt crown and a nar-
shortly.
uustlffened brim rolling up close to
"With you? You look—er—out of
sorts "
I.lbble J.ong looked at him scorn
fully. "You heard what 1 said when
| you came In. Hartholomew Jepson—
and you hnve the Impudence to auk
tne what Is the matter?"
Jepson cast his thoughts back to
the moment of his entrance when Lib-
blt had assisted him Into her house.
Surely, she had said something about
, not marrying him because of bis
crazy notion— that meant she disap
proved of his attempts to conquer the
air as other men were doing every
j day all over the country. He felt a
I resentment growing underneath his
MR. JEPSON’S
GLIDE
^
Ig KW YORK Tho ©laguer
CW '-W ni. (I nmlu ear ornaments
■
of velvet that adorn »<>
t\ 7 c 1
many of Itio season's »mart
lint» arn no loaa novel Ilian
are the vartoua big fan
»hiiin'll decoration» that (lure acto»»
the hack of the ateeple crown» Hut
millinery of the present time la eccen
tric In the extreme. and the Kiri who
resolves the areateat number of com
pllmcnt» rcaardlna her tn»tn In tho
matter of drea» I» the |ier»on who run»
to oddltlc», and to thl» end there
eecm* to bo no limitation The cachet
chapeau» with bun» bow» are In tho
prime of their vogue It would »com
that tho effort on the part of the mil
liner I» to have the bow »o large that
tho »hope I» nltno»t lo»t. Much »tun
nina bow» are made of everything that
the d.-alatier find» at hi» hand »trip
od ribbon» and velvet ribbon» In bold
effect» aro amoug tho favored mate
rial».
One of the «mart furnishings that
I» new thl» fall I» tho trltoned acarf
which »o attractively trim« tho »Im
ple felt hat» A »overo but v»»tly b©
coining model *een the other dny had
l be hack of the brim turned iky ward,
and extending from either »Ido of the
crown were wring effect» made of lace
The lace aigrette, a» the milliner»
term tho trimming. I» one of tho very
populnr ornament»! It I» employed on
all kind» of hat» and with equally good
result» On the standard next to this
hat wa* a fascinating shape In grass
green »atIn beaver trimmed with huge
wing» In white, tipped with green, and
put on aero»» tho front of the mor
cury shaped model
The »oft French
felt» In two color» and trimmed with
■mart bow arrangements are too ador
able for word» Usually the bow take*
on the coloring of the facing
In All Shad»» of Violet.
A «tunning model being shown by
an Importer of fine millinery I» In
violet trimmed with withered flower*
and foliage In all the violet »hades.
The arrangement of the flower» looked
as If they had b«©f> tossed onto the
•hap© promiscuously. The distinctive
feature of the hat was the band of
brilliant blue velvet rtbbon that cross
ed the front of the crown and finished
In a novel rhou at the loft side Such
color blendings a» we have Just de
scribed go hand In hnnd with other
unusual effects, Including purple and
magenta, green and orange, gruye and
Vermillion and pink and cerise. lie-
signers this season have shown abso
lutely no regard for color combina
tion». and many of the smart hats are
severely trying for this particular rea
son.
Among a group of fashionable hats
In n window up Fifth avenue are half
a doben models covered with a sort
of loose mesh canvas which I» pulled
very plain and tight over the frame
A pretty shape of this typo Is trimmed
with a multitude of miniature ostrich
fenthers arranged around tho high
crown In hedge effect, running quite
high at the bark. Another striking
model similar In shape was fetcblngly
trimmed with marabout, with here and
there little sprigs of slendor grasses to
give tho desired height.
After all Is said and done the shapes
and sires of the smart hats are very
diverse (Ireat models In picturesque
outlines and close bonnet shapes hob
nob. and a woman may please herself
•nd her features without Infringing up
on the edict of Madama la Modo In
the least Small hats have been grow
ing larger and big one» have been
modifying ever since the first modela
for fall were put out. A good many
of tho late model» turn back from the
face, leaving the forehead unprotect
ed. High crowned aha|>es are coming
In higher than ever, and mnny of the
new peaked shape* are positively gro
tesque, reminding one of masquerndn
shape». Home of the models of bl-
»arre style are combination» of velvet,
tagnl and corded silk. One such hat
wna of white tangnl trimmed with felt
pprs and white fox fur.
(Some Odd Effects.
The extensive vogue for oddities
bring« Into piny many unusual effects
Wonderful plumos tundo of delicate
lace nre among the ornnments that
are different. Valenciennes lace frills,
chous and pompons are so much In
evidence that they occupy a realm all
their own. Very heavy lace Is effec
tively put over the crowns and brims
of black hats. With such treatment
the white feather ornament of one
kind or another la the smart embellish
ment On the other hand many prefer
a white foundation with black all-over
lace or galloon and black feather gar
nishments. The ostrich feather a la
mode Is so stripped that It Is a mere
shadow of Its original shape; however,
there are still In use mnny handsome
French tips tin t are as rich In wealth
of fullness ns the feathers worn In the
days of extravagant Marie Antoinette,
whose One plumes cost a small for
tune.
To describe the black hat that Is
considered modish, one would have to
name the various shapes that turn off
the face. At a glance over the great
the crown. An odd treatment tn the
way of trimming was given In the
form of a stitched band of emerald
green suede secured at the front with
a steel studded harness buckle.
Mob Caps Much In Favor.
Mob caps are having a great suc
cess at the present moment. They
are enchanting when worn by young
and pretty women, but they must be
studiously avoided by anyone who has
said farewell to her youth. The mob
cap Is Just one of those noveltloa
which must be dealt with carefully.
It appears, on tlio surface, to bo In
tended for tho woman of uncertain
age, but whon the latter appears In
one tho "uncertain” becomes certain,
and sho Is made to realize, by her
friends, that the vagnrlos of fashion
are for youth—only.
A tailored suit of linen and velvet
Is a curious, arid rather exotlo, affair;
the two materials seen) Incongruous
and yet they can be combined with
the best results, when dealt with by
master hands. A heavy make of
guipure, half cotton aiul half silk. Is
freely used on these suits and fringes
of all lengths are Introduced.
The best results are obtained from
a combination of black velvet and
pure white linen, with a Judicious In
troduction of Ivory tinted guipure.
Such a costume, when made by an ar-
tlat, possesses an undoubted cachet of
Its own and tt ran be worn with al
most any kind of hat.
Evening Frock.
The Illustration shows a frock of
hyacinth blue satin, with short tunla
and bodice of flesh pink nlnon trim
ming, powdered with blue crystals
and fringe of same. The underskirt
Is of nlnon with two kilted nlnon
frills at the edge. The roses on the
skirt and bodice are of shaded pink
nlnon
Illue rtbbon and pink roses
are worn In the hair.
admiration for Llbble Long. Uncon
sciously—and unfortunately— he ex
pressed h|s thoughts aloud.
"I ain't been a bachelor for so many
years aa I have, to be dictated to
now,” he said.
"What?"
demnnded
the
pretty
widow, sitting up very straight.
"I was thinking \o myself,” apolo
gized Hartholomew sullenly.
"If that's the kind of thoughts you
harbor, you better----- ” Mrs. Long
paused significantly.
"I better?" naked Jepson excitedly.
"Yea, you better!'
flared Llbble.
"When l engaged myself to marry
you, Hartholomew Je-)son, I thought
you were a sensible man, but I’d
never seen you anywhere except in
that bookstore of yours. I thought
to myself that a mnn who keeps a
bookstore couldn't help but he steady
and quiet—and If anyone had told me
that you'd be the first one In Kedar to
try to fly through the air, I would
have lnughed In his face!"
"I don't see anything funny In It,"
said Jepson, rather sourly. “ That's
the way In Kedar— they despise the
sciences."
"8clence Indeed! I don’t see much
science about carrying a gliding ma
chine to the roof of a house and try
ing to glide off to the ground without
hurting yourself. You've broken three
legs and a collar bone so far, besides
spraining your ankle yesterday."
"It’s in a great cause," protested
Jepson, solemnly.
"Flddle-le-dee!" and Llbble Jerked
the completed braid out of her lover's
grasp and began to roll It Into a big
ball. Her eyes snapped dangerously.
"You can choose between me and the
old gilding machine!’’
A most uncomfortable silence fell
upon the room. Llbble rolled her'ball
vigorously and Hartholomew Jepson
arose unsteadily to his feet while Llb-
ble’s poll parrot on the stand In th#
corner cocked an Inquisitive eye at
his mistress.
"I can't give up the gilding ma
chine,” said Hartholomew with unex
pected spirit In ooe usually so meek,
and during an ominous silence he
hobbled across the room, retrieved his
hat and overcoat, managed to get Into
one and balance the other on bis
head.
"I wish you good day, Llbble," hp
said quietly, and went away.
"F o o l!” shrieked the parrot angri
ly
"Keep still, P o lly!" chided Llbble
I>ong. "I know I'm a fool, but, oh,
dear, I thought he would he easier to
manage!"
"O-o-o-oh! Lawk»” ’ shrieked the
bird disgustedly and turned bla hack
on his despondent inlstrees.
"I don't suppose he will ever come |
hack," mused Llbble Long, as she sat
there alone. "The way he spoke when
I told him to chose between me and
the gliding machine was aa much as to
say there were plenty of women In
the world hut only one gliding ma
chine Perhaps after he breaks a few
more arms und legs he'll come to his i
senses.” she ended plaintively, for she \
was sorry for herself. Hhe spoke of j
Hartholomew Jepson's Injuries much
as If he had been a centipede Instead
of a biped.
Ho their engagement was suspend
ed. so to speak, for the widow did not
return the amethyst ring Hartholo-
mew had placed upon her Anger.
"l.«et him come after it.” she mur
mured to herself every time she
looked at It. and that was very often,
for she continued to wear It on her
engagement Anger.
Hartholomew Jepson’s house was j
situated on what was known as the
Upper Hay road and Llbble Long's
was on the Lower Hay road. Bar
tholomew's was built on a sort of
plateau that shelved off perhaps 50
feet Into Llbble lyin g» back yard. In
front of the Jepson house there ran
the Upper Hay road and the view of
harbor and surrounding hillsides was
beautiful. Lllible's house was very
old and weather-beaten with wide
chimneys and a mossy roof. After
they were married Hartholomew and <
General William Booth.
bis bride had planned to sell the
widow's old home and live in the Jep-
TH IN the recollection of matter of fact, the Salvation Army has
son house.
thousands there was a time passed through Its earlier trials; It has
Hevcral weeks passed away and the |
when the Salvation Army become an established Institution In
amateur gilder recovered the use of j
w&a held up to ridicule and our midst.
his maimed ankle and once more they |
Apart from his distinctly religious
opprobrium, when the sol
told stories of how "Hatty" Jepson
work.
General Booth Is chiefly Inter
diers
were
stoned
and
imprisoned,
and
was practicing with his gliding ma
chine. Those who watched said that when the drums were smashed to esting as almost the only Briton of
they had seen him make several suc matchwood or cut open and filled with our time who has made any distinct
Impression upon any considerable
cessful flights or glides from the tar.
Mr. Booth Tucker In h(s "L ife of number of foreigners. No doubt Her
ridgepole of his barn to the back
Mrs. Booth" Bays: "One of the most bert Spencer had a great Influence
doory&rd of his house.
Some festivity In the village divert cruel and prolonged persecutions took upon thinkers, and Darwin a still
ed all attention from Mr. Jepson's ef place in 1881 at the little town of greater; but neither Darwin nor Her
forts on the most brilliant moonlight Basingstoke, the mayor of which was bert Spencer Is a personality to any
of those whose whole philosophy of
night of the autumn. He had planned a brewer.
"Alarmed at the rapid decline of life has been more or less colored by
a daring glide. He was going to
start from the roof of his house and their trade, the publicans hired the their teachings.
Mr Gladstone was the last who had
glide gently and swiftly through the roughs with unlimited supplies of
anything
approaching to a personal in
air to the Lower road. There was a liquor to attack the Salvation Army,
broad space between the locust trees the mayor professing to be unable to fluence on the continent, and he was
near Llbble Long's house that would afford them the protection of the to a certain degree an International
man. Lord Rosebery runs over to
admit of his free passage between law.
Italy every now and then, but he
them.
“Time after time the brave little
Bartholomew Jepson's glide was band, beaded by their two girl officer*, neither desires nor seeks to exert an
successful In more ways than one. He faced the drink-maddened mob, from Influence which comes from personal
left the roof of his house, headed whom they received the most cruel contact with the people In foreign
i
straight between the two tail trees, treatment, but at length the repri lands.
Booth’s Continental Labors.
when a bat flew Into his face; he mands of the home secretary, Sir Wil
General Booth stands alone as the
veered suddenly and then losing con liam Harcourt, produced their effect,
one man who addresses publlo meet
trol of himself plunged solidly down and quiet was restored."
ings abroad, and la In active living
ward. crashing through the Widow
The change that has come over pub
lying's frail roof, leaving a tearing lic opinion U not less creditable than contact with at least some depart
hole In the shingles and landing | remarkable, and Its genesis was due ments of the national life of foreign
plumply on a pile of feather beds In to the fact that, true to his character ers. Curiously etuagh, he la Innocent
of any other language but his own, but
the attic.
istics, the "man In the street” had
When the frightened widow came misunderstood the purpose of the he has addressed vast audiences In
nearly every capital on the continent,
Into the attic, candle in hand, she army.
and In this respect General Booth’s po
stared Rt Bartholomew Jepson's pale
Founder of Army.
sition Is unique.
face with consternation mingled with
As a mere boy William Booth was
In all northern Europe, with the ex
Joy In her own.
"converted.” and created a great dis ception of Russia, and not excepting
"You see— I—came— back, Llbble," turbance In the Methodist chapel he
smiled Bartholomew, for he had miss attended by bringing some of the riff Finland, we will find men and women
ed Llbble more than he dared ac- raff of the town to the services. He banded together as organised units of
the organisation of which General
vnowledge.
became a local preacher, then an
“ Oh. you have hurt yourself again evangelist, and finally, with his able Booth Is the founder and chief, but hla
—where Is It now?" bewailed L lb b le1 and devoted wife, cut loose from all Influence la not confined to Europe.
Long, absently permitting the glider church organisations, founded his own He has on several occasions traveled
through the United States and Can
to kiss her plump cheek.
East London Revival mission, which
"I expect— It’s my hetirt this time," i ultimately developed Into the Salva ada, and everywhere vast crowds gath
ered together to bear the words of life
grinned Bartholomew with recovered
tion Army.
from his Ups.
spirits as he emerged from his feath
The crisis of William Booth's life
He has visited Australis and India;
ery nest.
came tn the late 'SO's and the manner tn fact, he has become one of the
In which he grappled with It shows shuttles In the loom of the empire,
His Pride Aroused.
the genius of the man— rather he and he Is probably the only British re
The tramp leaned against the door would call tt the inspiration of the
ligious teacher who Is equally popular
Jamb, while Miss Annabel Sheldon Ho Spirit Indeed, there was a mo-
at home and tn Engllsh-apeaking lands.
peered out at him through the screen, men when the drum beating had done
If all mankind are brothers, as we are
and he gated past her at the kitchen Its work, when the crude phrases and
supposed to believe. General Booth de
table. "You look strong," said Miss hysterical shriektngs had found their
serves credit for being probably one
Annabel. "Are you equal to the task level, when. In short the Salvation
who knows more members of the fam
of sawing and splitting half a cord of Army’s work seemed done. Wltheat
ily to speak to than any other Uvlng
wood?" “ Equal to It, madam?" said William Booth at that moment the
man.
the tramp. "The word Is Inadequate army would have faded away Into the
The "man in the street," who for
I am superior to It," and a moment dim procession of religious ripples on
some time past has been more or less
later the sunshine played on the door the surface of life. But here came In
glorying In the extent of the Influence
Jamb where his figure had so lately the genius of the general.
of Britain and the might and majesty
leaned and down In the road drifted
Undoubtedly, General Booth has suc of the British name, may at least re
a cloud of dust raised by his patient, ceeded tn making a deep Impression
flect profitably upon the fact that Gen
plodding fe e t
upon men of his own generation. Be eral Booth has done more to familiar*
ing a man always on the alert for lie the nations of the world with Brit
The Trouble.
Ideas, he saw that the man who Is ish Ideas and British energy than any
"It seems King George and Queen "saved” In a hysterical moment Is not other living person.
Mary are in an aerobatic fix about safe; that whatever may be the driv
Notwithstanding all his limitations.
their dread of the native way of rid ing power of the Gospel there Is the General Booth Is a great and good
ing In India."
stomach and even the surroundings to man and will go down to posterity as
"How so?”
consider; that If you set s man's foot a great organiser of social reform,
“ If they ride the native steed, they on the lowest step of the “ ladder to rather than as the leader of a new re
will have an elephant on their bands.” God” he wants a shove to aid him up ligious movement
He has always
the next step. Ws can easily Imagine caught the changing situation on the
the searchings of heart of that wily change and he has grown with grow
Hit Time Off
tactician when he saw that the drums ing demands.
"Is your husband workln?” *
and the shrieking led only to the first
"Sure he has a folne new Job.”
The young man who wandered about
step.
” Phat is he doin' V
Mile End waste wondering what oould
An English Institution.
’’Workln’ on a merry go-round."
be done for this perverse generation—
Moreover, the general earned his the tall, spare form of the head of th »
"Kin he get off often?”
title by the splendid flank movement army, with hie hooked nose and h i»
“ Whlnever It stops.”
upon humanity when he determined hair snowed by many winters— the old>
that the sinner with his foot on the man with an army of thousands be
Another Matter,
"He believes In calling a spade a bottom rung must be helped up the hind him; commissariat medical serv
ladder to God, and to have seen at the ice, all arrayed, the accounts In or
spade."
"I don’t object to that, but does he crucial moment the danger, to have der; prophet philanthropist, organ-
believe In calling a shed a hangar?" written and published "In Darkest Ixer of victory— we can scarcely sum.
England and the Way Out,” was the np that fiery old man In a phrase.
real triumph of the general, for he Not only do people recognise the gen
Contrary Corroboration.
"Is your friend really a live wire?" saved the army and. Incidentally, be eral. but accord him the tribute of Iov«|
has saved many other people. A s a and respect
‘Dead sure thing.’’
P ersonality or
G eneral B ooth
w