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About The daily morning Astorian. (Astoria, Or.) 1883-1899 | View Entire Issue (Oct. 3, 1897)
t NIK DAILY ASTOKIAN,, -SUN WAT MORNING, OCTOBER 8, 1897. THE HOME S THE POPULAR WINTER COLOR Villi Be Gray is Yarioas Combina tions, According to Caroliic. If all the colon that the season seems likely to rrvikt famous, none stands a bettr chance than gray. It promtsa to be popular not only on Its own account, but as an aider and abettor to other colors; In other words. In combinations. The fundamental fabric of lovely frock recently seen Is a pals (ray cashmere, butt K Is combined with black lao mount d upon ecru satin. The otherwise plstn 'skirt Is topped by a yoke-like piece of the lace over satin. The entire buck of the coraK is of the same, the cashmere tormina- the upper part of tins fronts, the entire length of the slender vest and the (Jeeves. The broad, -corsex -like waist band of the cashmere is fastened In front with buttons and cords of gray; .similar ones fasten the bodice. The lace over satin reappears as a finish to the Mock, and also as a pair of odd little Teren from which are developed epau lets. Distinctly smart Is another gown, with Its novelties both of skirt and bodice. It Is made of a silk and wool fabric; not too dark green lr color.and trimmed with black lace insertion over a paler green satin. Paler green satin Is also employed for the rourh-wrinkled lower portion of the waistcoat, and that part of the sleeve running from elbow to wrist. There is. too, a glimpse of dark green velvet In the stock and for a short distance below. The only variation from the prevailing tone consists in two hesrlly gold braJded bits of white cloth so set as to form a conspicuous detail of the waistcoat The rovers are edged with the lace over satin, as are also the basque and the sleeve puff of wool where k meets the silk at the elbow. The skirt Is orna mented with Ave bands of the lace over satin, so arranged that they meet In points to the front. Either of these gowns would make a woman perfectly content, being all that perfect taste and a puffy purse could secure. ' 't.'T WOMEN AND THE DINGLEY ACT. Philadelphia Times. All over the old world not "any old world" but that particular part which has no geographical relation with the new are hundreds of American women, their eyes turned longingly toward their .own land, but whose return to that land Is Indefinitely postponed. All that the women have to do is to make up their minds to pay down so much money and thus secure an open sesame, but consid ering that many of them really haven't the money and that not one of them Is anxious to so expend It, the situation is really serious. The cause of it all? The new tariff law. Politicians of oppos ing faith may wrangle over the law at large, but there can be but one opinion as to the havoc that Its one particular clause concerning "personal effects" has played1 with feminine peace of mind. Surely the ears of one Mr. Dingley must, in the course of the last few weeks, have burned as no ears have burned before. It would be different If the women had gone abroad since the bill beiame a law. But this Is not the case. Most ofthem have been abroad for months, during which time, and new dreaming that anything so dreadful as the Dingley bill could ever actually come o pass, they have been accumulating every sort of dutiable article they could lay hands on. Now it is a condition, not a theory that confronts them; and the mere sugges tlon of it is frightful. All the pleasure of a voyage home nowadays Is destroyed by the thought of the customs ordeal to which they are doomed upon their arrival. Those happy, care-free days, when smuggling was an easy, not alto gether sinful, matter, when a voyager's prowesi was largely gauged by her abil ity to declare that certain plunder was not declarable, are all gone, never mere to return, unless the prayers and anath emas "f thousands of women are of any avail. There can be no question but that the old regulations were grossly abused. "To declare or not to declare, was the chief conversational topic upon the home ward voyage, decisions being generally in the negative. On one New York bound liner last summer the pawneer lfsi contained the names of thirty clergymen and It was refreshing to witness these gentlemen of the cloth in solemn con verse as to whether they should or should not 'declare" various articles which, Re cording to the tariff law then in opera tion, were obviously dutiable. But the new law leaves no chance for any quip or quibble. "You pay your money," out there Is no suggestion as to your "n Ic ing your choice." "It's hard enough to do 70ur duty," walled one woman on the docks the other day, "but Its nothing like so har as paying your duty." She didn't seem 10 realize that' the two might be synon ymous, to return to the first part of the proposition, however, what Is to be come of all the women In various "furrln parts" who arc literally tofraid to come hornet . . MRS. LUETGERT'S RINGS, Photographs Relied on to Disprove the Charge of Murder. photography will be the means used o convince "live Jury that tbe rings of fered In evidence by the state are coun ierfeir. Between two and three yecrs niro the missing woman had some pic tures taken, and the rings were on her flneers at the time. One of those pho tographs Is In ths possesion of the de fence, rind it Is said to show that the rings of which the state has made so much are not hers. In the photograph two rli'gs are plainly shown, and their FAIR QUEEN slse is plainly Indicated. The Import ant fact brought out by the picture is that both rings worn by Mrs, Leut gert were of the same site. The rings produced by the state are dissimilar In almost every respect, and could not possibly be the ring shown In the pho tograph. On of them a a plain guM band, such as is commonly worn as a wedding ring. The other is what Is known as a guard ring, or a friendship ling, and Is supposed to have been worn by Mrs. Luotgvrt o prevent the wedding ring from coming off the finger. It Is sim ply a small, thin circlet of goM, and orig inally had a milled edge. To rebut this testimony, the state cannot offer any evidence to show that Mrs. Luetgvrt did not wear the same rings the night she disappeared, and at the same time the photograph was taken. Louis Luetgert who was a witness for the state, swor that for three years his mother's flngvr had been so large that it was Impossible to get her rings off. The state felt much satisfaction at the fact that the rings had been, by this testimony, securely fastened on the wo man's linger for a period dating three years bvk. This evidence given by the son of the missing woman, it was said, proved beyond a doubt that the rings could not have been left at home by Mrs. FASHION'S IiflTEST FANCIES Designed Expressly for the ' Rstorian " By the Botterlck Publishing Company AN EQUESTRIAN JACKET. The season for outdoor sports Is now at Its height There Is no doubt tt-at women when engaged In field or other sports experience greater exhlleratlon of spirit when up-to-date In their attire. Fitting- garb Is easily procurable. Jack et-basques for equestrian wear have un dergone some radical changes. A good example is given In this sketch; the basque U shown made of myrtle-green cloth opening over a vest of red-and- green vesting-, machlne-stltchlng grrtnc the tailor finish. The basque may be worn open or cloaed over a vest or shirt waist; the fronts round 1n cutaway fash ion and above the closing- are reversed In pointed lapels. The sleeves show the fulness at the top stamping the newest close shaping and the noticeable lack of jacket basques Intended for equestrian wear. Broadcloth In sombre colorings, ro'xed cheviot and good qualities of rwrge are use1. a garment of this kind and fancy v tinc of some bright hue may appear with 1 chemisette and satin tfc. TAILOR-MADE COSTUME. Although certain writers bemoan the close adherence to tailor style, these modes continue to thrive and apparently gain by condemnation. Adaptations of the Ruslan blouse, reduoed sleeves, nar row lapels, large reveri and perfect ad justment throughout characterize cos tumes having the tailor stamp and tbe materials of which they are made are rich In color and quality. A good style for the promenade and calling Is plc- turc-d ir, the llustratlom. A seven-gored iklrt having the fashionable fan back and slight ripples- below the hips, ac companies the stylish basque perfect In 1 . . 1 1 . . . U . tu.nl, ananA In rtfM- tlllr.n, the fronts square or pointed as preferred and sides arched gracefully. Box-phits collect the fulnesB at the top of the two-seam sleeves and a high stand nig collar finishes the neck. Plaid chev iots, serges, tweeds and the lovely broad cloths that come in a long: list of colors will be chosen to make this toilette and braid will form the most appropriate decoration. CLAUDE DUVAL OVERCOAT. Some new tyle for the little men aie f VAV Luetgert and put In the vat by some enemy of hr husband. had Iwn sug gested. AccoiMlnr to the defense, there fore, the rtg Mrs. Luetgert wore st the time ths disappeared must have been those she had on her hand at the time the photograph was taken. WOMEN IN THE POSTOFF1CB, The appolntmoM of. women to place In the New York post office Is of compara tively, recent date. The first woman was appointed by Postmaster Pearson, and she was supremely alone until the ad vent of Postmaster Van Cott, who evi dently believes In woman's work, for during- Irts first term of office. In 1W1, he appointed eighteen other women. These applicants are obliged to pass the civil service examination even those who sell the nosing stamps and the result If saM to be remarkably good showing as to thetr mental qualification. They are distributed throughout the different departments. There are eight In the money order department, four In the Inquiry department, two in the mall inspection and rating department, who examine, and classify the malls; one In the office of the second assistant post master, one a-ho acts as record clerk, two as stamp clerks and one In the civil service department. The work of these women Is declared by the officers to excellent In every re speet. comt wring favorably with that of the men. The average salary I year. " now creeping In, for the cool days arc at hand and, like their elders, the young folks find the soft wool weave and mixed suitings more acceptable than the pique and gingham dresses, and even the top coat must be donned In the mountains lend at the seashore. The overcoat J shown In the sketch Is decidedly up-to-date and Is fashionably known as the Claude Duval or highwayman top-coat. tit fronts are closed In double-breasted style and above the closing are reversed In pointed lapels by a rolling collar which meets the lapels In notchi-s. The triple cape Is a feature of the mode; It Is attached underneath the collar with hooks and eyes. Fancy coatings and ths plain weaves as well are used for this jstyle of overcoat and braid may be se lected for decoration, or machine stitch ing will answer for a neat tailor finish. The cap and leggings may match or contrast with the coat. A TWO-PIECE COSTUME. The value of the practical ami service able two-piece costume cannot be over ' estimated ; for travelling, riding, this I promenade and driving It Is always ap 'proprate, and if a shirt- waist of be- coming hue Is worn under the Jacket the effect Is youthful and generally be- ccmlng. Such a costume Is Illustrated made of serge and trimmed with braid; It accompanies a shlrt-walHt of rhnnge ' able taffeta silk, in ;i green tint sh"t with blue. The fronts of the Eton Jacket are apart all it he way and the ends of the rolling collar taper to points Just below the bust A five-gored skirt and protty trlr die compete the mode, whloh is simply but tastefully trimmed. For the autumn this would be a good choice and the mode Is adaptable to all the soft wool weaves novr In vogue. A stylish suit recently made was of brown serge; the Jacket opened over a shirt waist of tan silk and an Alpine hat of brown feh trimmed with feathers and velvet completed the toilette. v 7 I FREE SUGjt Teas, Coffees, Spices, Baking Powder, and Extracts Over and above our regular presents, consisting f Chins, Crockery, lilusswsre, Tinware ami Nov elties. Our 50-ceul Ten equals any T.'i-ivut T soM. Teas at 'Ate, 2.V, :i5o, 40c . ami. Mo per pound. Our Moelm and Java lllci d make a cup of Colli lo rfifeliu. Cnfliva at 15c, ic, 2.V, 30c, abd Sflc per pound. Spices al 11, lie. '.IV', iV, :V, S5o, and 40o r can. Importing for and operating 100 stores enables as to undersell all oilier ami save you all middlemen's profit. Wlijr nut buy from first bands? Get the best and save money. 1 571... Commercial Street Astoria TOILET SUGGESTIONS. Hints. Which Followed, will Result In Improved Complexion. Fruit for the Complexion One of the best remedies for a sallow or muddy complexion Is a generous diet of fruit. Many kinds of fruit possess wonderful POWerOI cieuruiK i"e niun uimj , iiih j It a transparent appearance. A fcle I bra ted skin specialist once said that sv j eral sound, ripe njipies eaten dally would . beautify the skin when local applications had proved useless. As a matter of f.uit, a torpid liver I frequently the Imme diate cause of skin troubles, ami the Julie of apples, containing a valuahlb arid, acts upon the liver and helps the dlgeslve orgnn to work properly. Among the most valuable fruits, the dally use of which help to Improve the complexion, may be mentioned nrangt-a, tamarinds, nectarines, p aches, plums, black berries, penrs, medlars, bUuk currants, strawber ries, gooM:lerTl, red and white cur rants, lemons limes ami most valuable of all apple. A QI.'KKN'S FAORVITE DISH The Way lilaek Game Is Cooked for the Royal Table. Here Is her majesty's favorlt way of having black game rooked for the royal table. : Truhs the birds as for roasting, lard the breasts closely with well-furnlshcd rows of larding, set them to braise In the oval stew-pan moistened with a mlre- polx made with two parts of good stock and one-third of French vlncgtir, baste the birds frequently while they are being braised, when done set them upon a bak ing-sheet In the oven for two minutes to dry the larding, then glaze and dish ' them up, garnish with a border of stewed re,j cabbage dresed In the same way as French sauerkraut, and round this place u lorier of Kmall sausage prnpiired as follows: Chop one pound of oalf's liver with ten onuces of fat bacon and six nunce.i of brown in nail crumbs, season wiih blink pepper, "aR, grated nutmeg and lemon peel, some parsley, thyme, one bayleuf and some sweet UlhII, all chopped fine; -I'M the yolks of three egs, mix thor oughly and then form Into small flat, round or oval' s.iusnijes, which must be wrapped tn a pig's caul. Fry these to a browa color, and use them as directed above. S.ui'e the. remove with a poly rade mixed with half of the liquor In which the hi ids have been braised, pre viously chared of all grease and boiled down to htilf glaze; glaze the larding and serve. The birds may also be serevd with a puree of celery and Richelieu sauce. CUT LOAF SUGAR GIVEN AWAY TO EACH PURCHASER OF OUR CELEBRATED The Great imerican Importing Tea Company J. Me THE SISTERS OF THE Convent of the . . . Holy Names ASTORIA, OREGON. Will reopen their Boarding and Day School September 0. For rate, etc., udUres the Superioress PUPILS I RECEIVED IN THE PRIMARY. GRAMMAR AND ACADEMIC GRADES QQaQDUD JsiJi A Our Royal Cream Flour FOARD & Sole, ASTORIA Largest Tr and I'olTec lVnlera on the l'scltlo Coast. leader of Iow Price. Ono Hundred Stores in Successful Operation. INSTRU MENTAL MUSIC, PAINTINO AND VOICE CULTURE FORM A SPECIAL DEPARTMENT Mount Angel College MOUNT ANGEL Minon Count-. OREGON This Is Just the place for your boys. Delightful location, large buildings and grounds, good meals, plenty of healthy exercise, excellent teachers and careful training- this I what they all say of MT. ANGEL COLLEGE. Send for Cat alogue and special term. School will open September I. P. F. PLACIDUS. Director. NONE BETTER STOKES CO. Agcrtts; OREGON "The Louvre" ASTORIA'S G0KGC0U9 ENTERTAINMENT HALL 8 FtOOIt" Flu Music. Uames of All Kinds. Two Magnificent liars, EVERTTW.NG riftST-CLASS Good Order and Everybody's Right! STRICTLY OBSERVED. l97 L.UUKICATINO OILS A 5ITXIAI.TV Fisher Brothers ASTORIA..,! ShlpChnnillcry Hardware Iron anil Steel Conl (iroccrlcHtintl Provisions I'ltiur ind Mill feed I'alntii, OH and Yarolnhc I.o(icrs' Supplies I'nlrtiank'a Scales Doors and Window Agricultural Implements atons natl Vehicles. SEASIDE SflWfflllili A complete stoca of lumber on ban! In (he rough ur drU. looiln, rua ilo, cslllng and all hind of finish; mold ing and shlngls. Terms rwaaouabte and price at bedrock. All order promptly attended, to, Offl and yard at mill. II r U LOGAN, HeasU. Oregon. Proprietor. Antorln IronWorlcB Front Billet, tiot of rourth. Astoria. GENERAL UACIILNIflTS AND ttOlLICR MAKER Land and Marin KogtiK, toiler Work. 8 loam boat and Canoary Work sp. clalty, Co SI lugs of ill description mad lo order on short naileo, John Fox. .President and Bupsrlntsndsat A. U Fug Vlo. PrMfcUat O. D. PhmI Bswrstary Astoria Bavt.sn Hank Treasurer ..TI10 I'ttMt lniincli.. "HERCULfiS" Is open lo special charter for iruralon partis or rivsr freighting. Dock at Ross, lllgglns A Co.' slip. TIIOS PALGITr. Lmvi orders at 111 Pond atrsst. Holds ths world's record for long-distance fast running. A flap of the United States Th now anil map la surd by the liutluiatin Koulu Is thrsc frt tour ir.irs wid-i by four feet long; Is prints 1 In all colors , :s niountrd on roll ers, shows vrry state, county, lmtritii! town, and railroad In U t'nlon. and Is a very dealraM and tisftil ml) uiic t to any household or liuslnosa es tablishment. 1'urchased In lots of tXO the maps cost iho 11 ur- llngtou ItouUj nearly 19 cant aploc. but on r colt of It cants In stamp or oortl the uikfcrstgned will bo pleased ot send you on. Write Immediately, as ths supply Is limited. A. C. BHKI.DON, (Ivneral Agent, Portland. Oregon. roit TILLAMOOK. NEIIALEM AND TILLAMOOK, NEIIALEM AND TILLAMOOK, NEIIALEM AND TILLAMOOK, NEIIALEM AND TILLAMOOK, NEIIALEM AND OTHICK COABT 1'OIN'TS OTHER COAST POINTS OTHER COAHT rOINTi OTHER COAHT POINTS OTHER COAST POINTS Rtsamer R. P. ELMORE, K. '. ELM OR, R. P. ELMORE, W. 11. HARRISON W. H. HARRISON W. II. HARRISON AND AUGUSTA AND AUGUSTA AND AUOUSTA ALL OPEN FOR SPECIAL CHARTER Balling dates to and from Tillamook and Nehalom depend upon the weather. For freight and pasnger rats apply to ELMORE, 8ANDORN Sk CO., Agent. O. R. N. "'o, Agents, Portland. NOTICE OF FILING Afl3IC88.MF.NT. For tlie Improvement of Thlrty-tlilrd Harrison avenue find Thirty-fifth street In Adair's Astoria. Notice Is hereby given thiut tho assess ment roll containing the special assess ment for the Improvement of Thirty third, Harrison avenue and Thirty-fifth atrnets, In Adnlr's Astoria, tins been filed In the office of (lie Auditor and Polh Judge, and is now open for Inspection, and will so remain open until tho (Jlh day of October, 1W7, prior to which tlmo all objections to such asscasment roll must be fll-1 In writing with the Audi tor and Police Judga. Tho CominHtoc on fll reels and Public, Ways, together with tho Hoard of As sessors of the City of Astoria, will meet In the Council rhamler In the city hall, In the City of Astoria, on Wednesday October 6, M7. nt the hour of id o'clock a. m to review and equalize such as sessment, and thereafter report thslr ao tlons to the Common Council. Ry order of the Common Council. Attest: H. E. NELSON, Auditor and Police Judge. Astoria, Or., Sept. 24, 1837. 1871