0 VOL. XXI II, i(). r? ASTOltIA, OREGON, SATVUDAY 3IARCII 7, 1885. PRICE, FIYE CENTS BU3INESS CARDS. Phj-sicinusaud Surfcroii.. Will 1 pMinnt tt'ti'ii'MMi nil talN. iim :-r pair i i!if it .i iu.n UlUte over Aliens Mori. -onwr ('a-- and -Mjurmoqua street. AMna. On-KHi. relcpuoi.r Xo. 41. rB.FIU.VK lt-tr. Pliynlclan it-id Auitvuii. Ofllee, Cor. Main and Ohm- in-f o office Hon--, 9 toil a m .-:.!. Kf!dnci, opposite lhe.lolmn-c-ii tuiUm; im a. uoimi-.. iko ! i llf..l Jc DOS.KIS. a rro t:rs ai i.. OlllCC lit Hlllllej - l..-k. .-.-.tU- ( il lUtl, Astoiia, 0:t'S"i. ' u. pdi.tov :. . n n on. FIII.TOX MKTSir.lBS. ATTOKN !.-. AT LAW. l'wiiu- & and C.Md IVllows liuihtln. .. u. . iOni.i: . .J. t.ftin. BOAVI.KY tSL -IM.. Attoi'iiiM nutl toiiiiH'l!oiN tt I.n.., Onlre on Chnmiiui. Sim I. A-4iita. Oh "ii. T? V IKH.li'K., NOTAKY I'lMlLIC, ArCIIOM-.Hi, ( O.MMISlION AND IN SimANCKAt'KNl. ri Kl. K. PUtUKK. SURVEYOR OF Clatsop County. unit City oi'AMoriii Ofttce : Cheiunius strrr t. Y. 11. '. .. IihI Kuom No. 8. 1 W. I. KICK. ARCHITFCT AMI Mii:i:ivn:xir.sn. Oh t K : KtMini '. h ni!it S lti-,K itto. , I AY TlTniE. .11. l. PHYSICIAN AN D SU KG EON Ol-kick Knouts i.. :iml.5 IMiiiitn IS.i'Id- HIJf. Kksiuknck On fYdat Stn'rt. luck ol St. Mnrj. 'tHo-.pll.il. K I. UIl'KS. .. k sii vv. HICKS X SII IAV. DENTISTS. Rooms In Aliens Building, up static. mi ner Cass and Squeiuoqua fleets. AMoiia Oregon. BAHKIHQ AKD INSURANCE ! I. W. CASE, Broker, Banker, and Insur ance Agent, ASTORIA, - OKF.OOrV. OFFICE HOI US : From S oVloek A. M. until 'J oVUkK J. M. Bozorth & Johns, Ue-1 Ektste nud Intur-nrt- lrt and Brole m ASTORIA. .... Oregon. We write policies In the following well kuowu Fire lnsnrauce Companies PHENIX OF HARTFORD. -SCOTTISH UNION AM) MIIONAI. OF EDIMSL'llG. UON. OF LONDON HOME. OFXEW 01tK. -XNDONANI LANCASHIRE. OF L1YRK- f POOL. PBUJXlX. OF BROOKLYN. "CONNECTICrT. OF H Kill FORD. OAKLAND HOME. OF OAKLAND. CAI.A. And also represent tho WESTEIIX. of California. HAM BURG-BRE3T EX. of Ger many, and AMERICAN STEAM BOIL ER INSURANCE CO. Kfc-l Estate Bought and Sold on Coinnillon. jr. o, toss. IJBAIlI.Itt UADEKTAIiKK. p?S5o 3Ialu 5(. Astorln. Orrs. THE LATEST STYLES WALL" PA PER AT B. B. FRANKLIN'S, NEXT DOOKTO ASTORIAN OFFICII A veiy large stooL from which to ulecl. Window curtains made to older. J3"Myp.itent Trimmer to cut Wall 1'apei Mill be found convenient to my p.ttrons. Boat Building; 'I HE BESr STOCK AND WORKMANSHIP GUARANTEED. Boats of Every Description Built. Shop over Arndt & Forehen". ir. ai. r.niTiir.RK. VISITORS TO PORTLAND Slinuld not forget to call at Towne's San Francisco Gallery, iliere may he seen photographs of all the leading men and women oIreon:ind Wa.shlngton Ternton. Skillful openitors always In attendance. and the most minute attention n.ud to inctures of children. Don't font the location, S. W. earner First and Morrison utreets, up stair. No trouble to show specimens to bdtoi. itreet railroads pass the door ever ten minutes, and this is the nearer gallery to tHe five principal hotel. i i alalkSi Fkri-fi ' .i.rrsite Fl-ffifSl iMI 1 K--. Ill KwV) o iQjl I I HI ITHE 1 m BEST TONIC. ?! -THE ST TQNIC. Tah medicine, combining Iron with paro ve'Uble toniN, quickly and completely ( urea DHpetln Indigent lun( Veakni, I nipure Itlouil, .llularia,!. LUU and Trv er-. undNeiirulKln. It Is an unfalhns: remedy for Dieeaseof the Kidney Hiid IJvrr. It is Invaluable for flisoa" jn'cullar ty Women, and all who lead edenUtr live. Itdoei not injure the teeth, cause headache.or produce contination othr Iron medicine to. It enriches ami purifies theblood.stixnulatts the appetite, aids the Hclnulation of food, re neves Heartburn and lieklunp, nud strength fj.fc the muscles and nerv es. For Intermittent Fevers. Lassitude, Larl: o( I .eri:y, Ac, It has no equal 2- The cenuine liaioe traue mark ana rded"retl line 5 on w rapper. Take Jio other ii.r"H l.j U:M t II tMIl iL I 0 UiLTiaOKK, BH UHlIMJTOh, WOOIIAKD A CO., Portland, Or HOI F-.AI.K A(.KNT.. JITTERS The Fittest Subjects Foi fever and ague, and remittents, are Hie debilitated, bilious and nerv oils. To such persons, Hostetter'.s Stomach Bitters arford adequate protection by Increasing iital stamina and the resistant power of the con stitution, and by checking irregularities of the liver, stomach and bowels. Moreover. it eradicates malarial complaints of n ob stinate xvpe, ana siunas nione tinefUued amotiK our national remedies. For sale bj all Druggists and Dealer generally. ii,. V . xLllGIl Wholesale and RetaillDaler in Gro&eties, ittlLL FEED. Glass and Plated Ware, 'IKOl'lt'AI. AND DOMESTIC FRUITS AND VEGETABLES. 'lllier Willi Wines, Liquors.Tobacco.Cigars G. A. STINSON & CO.. BLACKSFdlTHING. At Cilpt. Kogeis ola tnud. cornr. ! H :uu t oun Mreeis. Ship and CUnnery woik. Hort-horiii,!. Wagons made and rfji.ih.-J. Cv.M nork guaranteed. Insurance Office Geo. P. Wheeler & Co. Representing the following first -eke-. For elgii and Home companies Roval Norwich-Union and I.a!icashin. asvls. fs;ooo.Oi)o South Biilish and Kitioual. iUKi0.l00 Firemans Fund, ' tiOO.OOo Union, Fire and Marine " l.Ooo.fwo State, (dwellings onlj) 100,000 Aniline om and leltaide imveir! Lire and Accident Insurant c ('. of H.tttford, Conn. Deposited in Oregin. 4ii0,tX)j fr the secuuty oi roiicy noiiters. Personal Attention given to all btiiness, and SatNfactloii Guarantee J in ever n- siance. OFTtrr In Hume';. New Building, Asto iu, Oregon. W. E. DEMENT & CO. ASTOU!Af - - - OREGON Carry in Stock, DRUGS, CHEMICALS, TOILET and FAKGY ARTICLES. l'resrrfptlons rnrerully ('ompnunded P CELEBRATED i A HOW TO SEI.WT CLOTH 1N" A Tailor Advice a- 1o Him to Detect Cut-1 ton Warp and SboJdy la CIotli. 'The stuff in this ait of black clothes you made for me t3 not what ' I took it for," said one of an uptown , tailor's customers to him the other j ' day, in a reporter's hearing UI have ' tftaf liorl 4t,am ntaqnatl nn.l nnir foo how thev have whitened at the edges." "That's because of the cotton warp in the material, which the scouring soon makes apparent," said the tailor, genially. 'JJat you assured me particularly that the material waau't shoddy." '"So I did, and I told you the truth. But at the same time I told ou that it was cheap American goods, and that is just what it is a well-appearing American woolen manufacture, with a large percentage of cotton wnrpr If you had wanted shoddy, 1 could have sent jott where you'd have got something still cheaper, for shoddy is a kind of goods 1 won't make up for love or money. But, if you will remember, I showed you much better, but more expensive goods, of both foreign and American manufacture, which I offered to rec ommend heartily enough. But you were bent on liayitig tho poorer but well-appearing goods and so consult ed your own wishes instead of my advice." The customer heemed to have noth ing to offer against these statements, .nud presently took Ins departure, apparently much dissatisfied with himself, if not with the tailor. "How," asked the reporter, 'is an inexperienced buyer to distinguish between all-wolleu goods and the ma terial containing cotton warp, of which that gentleman was complain ingr' "By merely raveling the rough edge of the material and inspecting the threads," said the tailor. Any one can tell a cotton thread from a woolen thread. Tho one will break short in two, on being tested, while the other will fray and Hoss out, like yarn and worsted, in this way you can readily detect a mixture of cot ton warp in a sham all-woolen fabric." "How do you detect slioildv m cloth?" 'In just the same way. and even more easily. Pray out two or three threads from the rough edge and uu twist them. If they contain shoddy it will drop out of the twist, somo times like sand, and then again iu an impalpable dust, that will like enough" make you Bneeze. It youu inhale enough of the stuff it would bo apt to give you both a headache and sore throat, for most shoddy is rank poi son. Ever in a shoddv factory?" "No." ''Well, 1 was, and I know some thing about it Fact is I worked in a shoddy factory jtiBt one week when I was a much younger and more ne cessitous persou than I am now. Ne cessitous? Well, I should say so, for nothing short of starvation could have driven me to seek employment in that poison mill. Talk about quicksilver-mining aud that sort of thing for turning live workers into galvan ized corpse 1 "Why, such employ ment is positively invigorating com pared with a shoddy mill. I stood it just one week, and was then laid up for six months. Lucky I switched off when I did, or I'd have been atrophied into kingdom come long ago. iwen as it was it was a close shave." 4,How is shoddy made?" 'I can tell you how it was made twelve or fifteen jears ago, when I served my week's apprenticeship at it. They may have made improve ments in the milling since then, though, of course, the product itself is just the same mean, swindling, poisonous stuff it always was. I was placed over a sort of machine some thing like a patent straw cutter, only in lieu of straw, you fed it with cloth scraps, remnants, clippings and rags. These pass through the teeth of the machine on to revolving knives, just like - straw cutter, which minced them up pretty fine. After that they passed through another and yet an other machine, getting minced finer and finer at each operation, until the stuff was reduced to a coarse powder. This powder was then bolted, aud the flue powder or dust that passed through the last sieve was the beauti ful stuff called shoddy, or flock. Then came the dyeing process, and the dirty job was complete. I never got any further-than feeder to thepnmarv machine. Although I kept a wet sponge tied constantly over my month and nostrils, the work was almost too mnch for me at the end of the first day. "Why, once an hour I would squeeze out that sponge muzzier, and the water that came from it would be blacker than your hat, and smell worse than any ragpicker's sack. At the end of the week I pocketed my SC wages as if I had stolen it, and 'slid for home like a rocket, where I was sick abed a long time afterward." "Howdid the other operatives stand it so much better than youi" "Some of them didn't, while those that did had cast-iron throats aud lungs like bellows, I suppose. Some men can stand anything." "How is the shoddy mixed with the cloth?" "It is simply twisted up with the warp before the weaving. This gives fictitious weight and durability to a fabric whose native flimsiness would otherwise betray tho worthlessness of the woof. Young man beware of shoddy, whose presence in cloth yon can always detect iu the manner I I have told yon." "But in rcady-tunde clothing;" "There " on have no meunt of de tecting it, save bv wearing the gopd-. You have to trust to the honesty of' the firm of whom ou pnrchase. ' '1 hough 1 don't deal m re.nly-made 4 goods mvrel . it is no more than just ' for me to snv that mauv firms that deal in nothing else are perfectly hon est and trustworthy, and whose guar antee of what they warrant is as good as gold. Only, in ndditiou to tiu precautions J have given you, lie very careful iu choosing goods. whether made up or not, to know ' that the matenu! has been properly fulled. Without a perfect course of fulling, woolen cloth will always 3hriukupotj becoming damp." "What is the exact meaniug of full- iQSr . . " "Fnllint' is the last or finishinc process through which cloth passes, or should pass before it is ready for the wearer's use. It is u process by which cloth is scoured, cleaused aud thickened. It consists of a series of pestlesor stampers, which alternate ly fall into and rise out of a trough, through which the cloth is being passed, along with fuller's earth or some other cleansing material. The process, besides ridding the cloth of the grease and oil used in preparing wool, prevents it from shrinking thereafter in coming in contact with the wet You often see trousers for instance, that looked large euough, aud even overlarge, when first put on, but which, nevertheless, shrink up too small, or all out of shape, after encountering a single hoar of wet weather. That is because the, mate rial was not thoroughly fulled. Iu selecting clothing material, always make sure that it has been nroperlv fulled." But how can an "inexperienced person tell whether it has been prop erly fulled or not?" "He can't There 1- no way by which he can. His only safeguard in this respect is to take his tailor's word for it. Heuce how" important it is for every man to have an honest toilor. Let me repeat my warning, young man. in selecting clothing material, beware of shoddy, and put vour faith in an honest tailor." Souieortlis fautet Giving rise to dyspepsia are over work, badly cooked food, hurry in eating, too much grease, disagreeable companions, too little sleep, too much worry. Dyspepsia is a curse: but Brown's It on Bitters is a blessing; be cause it casts out dyspepsia, and makes suffering people well. Mrs. E. Patton, 2G20 Franklin street, St. Louis, sas: "I used Brown's Iron Bitters for dyspepsia, and it did me good... It is now claimed that petroleum in tiu cases exerts an influence on the compasses of a vessel equal to the same amount of iron or steel. Mrntl'M KbiuIhIoii of Pure Cod Liver OH, with KypophofcphltfH. Its Use In Lviuj Trouble. Dr. Hi ram Cadokbtto, of .larksomille, Fla., sajs: "1 hae for the last ten months prescribed your Emulsion, to patients suffering inuu lung troubles, and thev seem to he ;reatlj benefited by it- use?' A Virginia walnut tree was recent ly sold for SG00. It was so big the purchasers made money. "I was suffering from a severe cough and irritation of the throat," writes Mr. S. T. G. Morsell, 921 N. St. N. W., Washington, D. 0., "and Eel Star Cough Cure completely relieved me. Sol Gold Jewelry, Scarf Pins, data, Watches, Piuiiot uiul Ormis ol (be Ocst make ut Hie Lowest PrI'-. The dnest stock of Jewelry 1m Astoria. tarAll goods warranted as represented GUSTAV HANSEN, JEWELER. Astoria Bakery AM) Columbia Candy Factory. Kit. .laekHou, Proprietor. Candies. - 20Ctaperlb. Hread, l'lt-s and Oak delivered rvery dav. T. G. RAWLINGS,' Wholesale and I'etuH Ue:uVr in Tropical, Domestic, Green and Dried M'TS. CANDIK3,l)i:iKD .MEATS, KTf". Fine Cigars nml Tobacco. Next diKtr to I. .1. Arvnld's. Squeinnqnn St. T.OTEO. D ju.uij.ui ois-uieb. Latest and Best. Tension by Spiral Spring. New adjustment. Used bylarge.t Kinks. Send for circular to E. T. ALLEX. 410 Market St., San Francisco. 150 ( 1 m fcj- IUDOTAR TRADE XI MARK. rfiiinii simp 9M IINHH IK t5& ja L. v 5. .& Bl. JK Atmoiltitcltj Free from OptateJ. Emetics and l'olsans. A PROMPT, SAFE, SURE CURE j tor Cough. Soro Throat, liourscaeu, CoMj, lnautnin, Uroucfcltlf, Aitfcsia, Croup, YFL009- iuk vuuju, muumj, l'ain la c&Mt, aa oiaer alectfcm oXtha Throat "i Lane. Price SO cents a bottle. Sold by Druggists and lk-alew. ixirtlts unable to iniavt their dealer to 'tntmjjtl! ttt it fur them via recelet Vso Uo'.tlti, Zsjirtu charga paid, Ig tending ore dollar lo tUE ClUIOCS X. TOCELKR COSPinT, diiiOirnrnul UiauC-tarf w, Ktltlaaarr. SirjUaii, C. S. -1. MItS. FVA WAI.LMAN. - Proprietor. A.VrOMA, UKKttOX. Firt Class in I'very ICcsprct. NEW HOUSE. NEW FURNITURE. Fitted up -with ercrj- Conven ience lor flie Comlorf ol Transient and Permanent Guests. Corner Sqiieinoiiu.i audVot ClSi Streets. The Telephone Saloon Tht- Finest KstjiblislmuMit of tho Kind in Astoria. Kj..pi.illy iittiM up for Hie Comfoit and (ViiivpiiIpupi of Jliox who eiijnv :i Social CI.i-s. The ltst r Wines ami Liqunm, The Choicest Ciurnrs. Everything New and First-Class. If. I..JEFFEIy. Prop'r. PARKER HOUSE. II. It. PAItKI'R, Proir. lint Class in Every Respect. Free Coach fo flic House. Old Castle, Yspitti, and other brands of Coke Tin Plates, for sale in lota to snit purchasers, now in warehouse at Astoria or to arrive per Jowfa, or hrcher, also Liverpool fine and coarse salt. For further particulars apply to HHyor. Wilson & Co., Portland, Oregon. MA HOTEL Caie Smlies Colnmma TransBortation GoiianT. FOR PORTLAND! Fast Time ! THE SEW TELEPHONE Which has hein Mieclally limit for the comfort of pawners will leave Wilson & Fuller's Dock every Monday. Wednesday and Friday at 6 A.M. arriving at Portland at 1 P.M. Hemming leaves Portland, every Tuesday and Thursday at 6 A. M. arriving at Astoria at 1 P. M. ES An additional trip will be made on Hnnday of Each. J'eec.leaung Portland at O O'clock inHnay rHurnlBsr. Paner h thU route connect at Kalama fnr Sound pnrf. u. B. SCOTT, President Wilson & Fisher1 Ship Chandlers, I HEAVY AND SHELF HARDWARE ' Parnts, Oils, and Varnish. LOGGERS1 SUPPLIES. PROVISIONS AND MILL FEED AGEXTS FOll Salem Plouring Mills, Portland. Roller Mills, Capital Tlotir and FAIRBANKS' SCALES. ASTORIA, OREGON. Mertata anS CaHiet Maker, SQUENIOQUA STREET, XKvr to TtiK toi:ian f.rif.tnsfi. 0 VSTXW woik done in :i skillful manner on short Jiotke at na.niu!ile rate-. ASTORIA IRON WORKS. Huston Strket, Neau Pakkkk Mousf, ASTOKIA. - OKKUOX. GENERAL MACHINISTS AND BOILER MAKERS. LAM MARINE ENGINES BoilerWork, Steamboat Work and Cannery Work a spe cialty. Ofall Descriptions xaade to Order at Short Notice. A. 1). TVass, President. J. O. Hustler, Secretary, I. VT. Case, Treasurer. Joux Forc.Supeiintendent. S. ARNDT & FERCHEN, ASIORIA. - OKEGOIs. The Pioneer Machine Shop eT BIACKSMITH c tpt r i OUVJ - 'fVl-rJjUb- w:. and P-aKT&(7 Boiler Shop All kinds of ENGINE, CANNERY, AND STEAMBOAT W0EK Promptly attended to. A specialty made of repairing CANNERY DIES, FOOT OF I FAYETTE STREET. Fast Time STEAMER B. B. Franklin, 'f?wjRrii fcir Jx-BBSMiVf 'ifityFl"- - 41:-iiMBRnLL THE BEST IS THE t j Royal Brand Flour I Manufactured by the OREGON MILLING COMPANY ! is of Superior Quality, and w Endorsed by all who use It. THE HOUSEKEEPER'S FAVORITE Of Superior Kbin Quality. Guaranteed io Give Satisfaction. WYATT & -THOMPSON Sole Agenfg lor Astoria. Painting: and Paper ffinpt KALS0M1NING ETC. Paint SJiop in rear of premises form erly occupied by C. II. Stockton, oppo site the Court Ilouse. All orders prompt!, ami sntisfaetnrly executt d. J. K. JD. GKAY. Wholesale and retail dealer In. GROCERIES, FLOUR, AND FEED Hay, Oats, Straw, Wood, Etc. LIME, SAND AND CEMENT. Genei a! Storage and Wharfat-e on reason able terms. Foot of Benton street, Astoria. Oregon. .WM. EDGAR, Dealer in Cigars, Tobacco and Cigarettes Meerschaum and Brier Pipes, GENUINE ENGLISH CUTLERY Revolvers and Cartridges. COKN'ER MAIN AND CHENAMUS STs. The Gem Saloon. The Popular Resort for Astorians. For the Finest of Wines and Liquors Co to THE GEM SALOON. ALEX. CAMPBELL. - - PROPRIETOR, ASTORIA LIQUOR STORE, AUG. DAMELSOX, - - Proprietor. Rebuilt and. Refitted Throughout.. The Best of WIXKS. LIQUOR, AND CIGARS. For a Good Cigar, call for one of "Danielson's Best." Comer West 9th and Water Streets, Astoria. n9-6m Magnus C. Crosby Dealer in HARDWARE, IRON, STEEL; Iron Pipe and Fittings, STOVES, TINWARE AND HOUSE FURNISHING GOODS SHEET LEAD STRIP LEAD SHEET IRON, Tim and Oc-ppa?. Astoria Sail Loft. Best of Work at Bottom Figures J. HESS, The well-known Sailinaker now occupies ThAstnru Sail Loft, formerly occupied by A.M. Johnson. Boat Sails a Specialty. ALL WORK WARRANTED Come and see me at The Astoria Sail Loft : nexttoPithian Riiildin'-. Address P. O. Box 312. j. Hess. Floats! Floats! Floats! CANNERYMEN who are In netM of Floats. Copper Handles aud Mallets should end their orders to B. IF. BLOOIK Clatskanie, Oregon, who has a qnintilv on hand which will be sold at reasonable rates. 'SECURE THE SHADOW' Ere the substance fade, and when jon -.Kit Portland, make it a part of your business to call on w. H. TowjfE, at the San Fran cisco Gallery, S. W. corner First and Morrison streets, and have your photograph taken In the highest style of the art.