0
VOL. XXI II, i(). r?
ASTOltIA, OREGON, SATVUDAY 3IARCII 7, 1885.
PRICE, FIYE CENTS
BU3INESS CARDS.
Phj-sicinusaud Surfcroii..
Will 1 pMinnt tt'ti'ii'MMi nil talN.
iim :-r pair i i!if it .i iu.n
UlUte over Aliens Mori. -onwr ('a-- and
-Mjurmoqua street. AMna. On-KHi.
relcpuoi.r Xo. 41.
rB.FIU.VK lt-tr.
Pliynlclan it-id Auitvuii.
Ofllee, Cor. Main and Ohm- in-f o
office Hon--, 9 toil a m .-:.!.
Kf!dnci, opposite lhe.lolmn-c-ii tuiUm;
im a. uoimi-.. iko ! i
llf..l Jc DOS.KIS.
a rro t:rs ai i..
OlllCC lit Hlllllej - l..-k. .-.-.tU- ( il
lUtl, Astoiia, 0:t'S"i.
' u. pdi.tov :. . n n on.
FIII.TOX MKTSir.lBS.
ATTOKN !.-. AT LAW.
l'wiiu- & and C.Md IVllows liuihtln.
.. u. . iOni.i: . .J. t.ftin.
BOAVI.KY tSL -IM..
Attoi'iiiM nutl toiiiiH'l!oiN tt I.n..,
Onlre on Chnmiiui. Sim I. A-4iita. Oh "ii.
T? V IKH.li'K.,
NOTAKY I'lMlLIC,
ArCIIOM-.Hi, ( O.MMISlION AND IN
SimANCKAt'KNl.
ri Kl. K. PUtUKK.
SURVEYOR OF
Clatsop County. unit City oi'AMoriii
Ofttce : Cheiunius strrr t. Y. 11. '. .. IihI
Kuom No. 8.
1 W. I. KICK.
ARCHITFCT AMI Mii:i:ivn:xir.sn.
Oh t K : KtMini '. h ni!it S lti-,K itto. ,
I AY TlTniE. .11. l.
PHYSICIAN AN D SU KG EON
Ol-kick Knouts i.. :iml.5 IMiiiitn IS.i'Id-
HIJf.
Kksiuknck On fYdat Stn'rt. luck ol
St. Mnrj. 'tHo-.pll.il.
K I. UIl'KS. .. k sii vv.
HICKS X SII IAV.
DENTISTS.
Rooms In Aliens Building, up static. mi
ner Cass and Squeiuoqua fleets. AMoiia
Oregon.
BAHKIHQ AKD INSURANCE !
I. W. CASE,
Broker, Banker, and Insur
ance Agent,
ASTORIA, - OKF.OOrV.
OFFICE HOI US :
From S oVloek A. M. until 'J oVUkK J. M.
Bozorth & Johns,
Ue-1 Ektste nud Intur-nrt- lrt and Brole m
ASTORIA. .... Oregon.
We write policies In the following well
kuowu Fire lnsnrauce Companies
PHENIX OF HARTFORD.
-SCOTTISH UNION AM) MIIONAI. OF
EDIMSL'llG.
UON. OF LONDON
HOME. OFXEW 01tK.
-XNDONANI LANCASHIRE. OF L1YRK-
f POOL.
PBUJXlX. OF BROOKLYN.
"CONNECTICrT. OF H Kill FORD.
OAKLAND HOME. OF OAKLAND. CAI.A.
And also represent tho WESTEIIX. of
California. HAM BURG-BRE3T EX. of Ger
many, and AMERICAN STEAM BOIL
ER INSURANCE CO.
Kfc-l Estate Bought and Sold on Coinnillon.
jr. o, toss.
IJBAIlI.Itt UADEKTAIiKK.
p?S5o
3Ialu 5(. Astorln. Orrs.
THE LATEST STYLES
WALL" PA PER
AT
B. B. FRANKLIN'S,
NEXT DOOKTO ASTORIAN OFFICII
A veiy large stooL from which to ulecl.
Window curtains made to older.
J3"Myp.itent Trimmer to cut Wall 1'apei
Mill be found convenient to my p.ttrons.
Boat Building;
'I HE BESr
STOCK AND WORKMANSHIP
GUARANTEED.
Boats of Every Description Built.
Shop over Arndt & Forehen".
ir. ai. r.niTiir.RK.
VISITORS TO PORTLAND
Slinuld not forget to call at Towne's San
Francisco Gallery, iliere may he
seen photographs of all the leading men and
women oIreon:ind Wa.shlngton Ternton.
Skillful openitors always In attendance. and
the most minute attention n.ud to inctures
of children. Don't font the location, S. W.
earner First and Morrison utreets, up stair.
No trouble to show specimens to bdtoi.
itreet railroads pass the door ever ten
minutes, and this is the nearer gallery to
tHe five principal hotel.
i
i
alalkSi
Fkri-fi ' .i.rrsite
Fl-ffifSl iMI 1
K--. Ill KwV) o
iQjl I I HI ITHE 1
m BEST TONIC. ?!
-THE
ST TQNIC.
Tah medicine, combining Iron with paro
ve'Uble toniN, quickly and completely
( urea DHpetln Indigent lun( Veakni,
I nipure Itlouil, .llularia,!. LUU and Trv er-.
undNeiirulKln.
It Is an unfalhns: remedy for Dieeaseof the
Kidney Hiid IJvrr.
It is Invaluable for flisoa" jn'cullar ty
Women, and all who lead edenUtr live.
Itdoei not injure the teeth, cause headache.or
produce contination othr Iron medicine to.
It enriches ami purifies theblood.stixnulatts
the appetite, aids the Hclnulation of food, re
neves Heartburn and lieklunp, nud strength
fj.fc the muscles and nerv es.
For Intermittent Fevers. Lassitude, Larl: o(
I .eri:y, Ac, It has no equal
2- The cenuine liaioe traue mark ana
rded"retl line 5 on w rapper. Take Jio other
ii.r"H l.j U:M t II tMIl iL I 0 UiLTiaOKK, BH
UHlIMJTOh, WOOIIAKD A CO., Portland, Or
HOI F-.AI.K A(.KNT..
JITTERS
The Fittest Subjects
Foi fever and ague, and remittents, are Hie
debilitated, bilious and nerv oils. To such
persons, Hostetter'.s Stomach Bitters arford
adequate protection by Increasing iital
stamina and the resistant power of the con
stitution, and by checking irregularities of
the liver, stomach and bowels. Moreover.
it eradicates malarial complaints of n ob
stinate xvpe, ana siunas nione tinefUued
amotiK our national remedies.
For sale bj all Druggists and Dealer
generally.
ii,. V . xLllGIl
Wholesale and RetaillDaler in
Gro&eties,
ittlLL FEED.
Glass and Plated Ware,
'IKOl'lt'AI. AND DOMESTIC
FRUITS AND VEGETABLES.
'lllier Willi
Wines, Liquors.Tobacco.Cigars
G. A. STINSON & CO..
BLACKSFdlTHING.
At Cilpt. Kogeis ola tnud. cornr. ! H
:uu t oun Mreeis.
Ship and CUnnery woik. Hort-horiii,!.
Wagons made and rfji.ih.-J. Cv.M nork
guaranteed.
Insurance Office
Geo. P. Wheeler & Co.
Representing the following first -eke-. For
elgii and Home companies
Roval Norwich-Union and
I.a!icashin. asvls. fs;ooo.Oi)o
South Biilish and Kitioual. iUKi0.l00
Firemans Fund, ' tiOO.OOo
Union, Fire and Marine " l.Ooo.fwo
State, (dwellings onlj) 100,000
Aniline om and leltaide imveir! Lire
and Accident Insurant c ('. of H.tttford,
Conn. Deposited in Oregin. 4ii0,tX)j fr the
secuuty oi roiicy noiiters.
Personal Attention given to all btiiness,
and SatNfactloii Guarantee J in ever n-
siance.
OFTtrr In Hume';. New Building, Asto
iu, Oregon.
W. E. DEMENT & CO.
ASTOU!Af - - - OREGON
Carry in Stock,
DRUGS, CHEMICALS, TOILET
and
FAKGY ARTICLES.
l'resrrfptlons rnrerully ('ompnunded
P CELEBRATED i A
HOW TO SEI.WT CLOTH 1N"
A Tailor Advice a- 1o Him to Detect Cut-1
ton Warp and SboJdy la CIotli.
'The stuff in this ait of black
clothes you made for me t3 not what '
I took it for," said one of an uptown
, tailor's customers to him the other j
' day, in a reporter's hearing UI have
' tftaf liorl 4t,am ntaqnatl nn.l nnir foo
how thev have whitened at the
edges."
"That's because of the cotton warp
in the material, which the scouring
soon makes apparent," said the tailor,
genially.
'JJat you assured me particularly
that the material waau't shoddy."
'"So I did, and I told you the truth.
But at the same time I told ou that
it was cheap American goods, and
that is just what it is a well-appearing
American woolen manufacture,
with a large percentage of cotton
wnrpr If you had wanted shoddy,
1 could have sent jott where you'd
have got something still cheaper, for
shoddy is a kind of goods 1 won't
make up for love or money. But, if
you will remember, I showed you
much better, but more expensive
goods, of both foreign and American
manufacture, which I offered to rec
ommend heartily enough. But you
were bent on liayitig tho poorer but
well-appearing goods and so consult
ed your own wishes instead of my
advice."
The customer heemed to have noth
ing to offer against these statements,
.nud presently took Ins departure,
apparently much dissatisfied with
himself, if not with the tailor.
"How," asked the reporter, 'is an
inexperienced buyer to distinguish
between all-wolleu goods and the ma
terial containing cotton warp, of
which that gentleman was complain
ingr' "By merely raveling the rough
edge of the material and inspecting
the threads," said the tailor. Any
one can tell a cotton thread from a
woolen thread. Tho one will break
short in two, on being tested, while
the other will fray and Hoss out, like
yarn and worsted, in this way you
can readily detect a mixture of cot
ton warp in a sham all-woolen fabric."
"How do you detect slioildv m
cloth?"
'In just the same way. and even
more easily. Pray out two or three
threads from the rough edge and uu
twist them. If they contain shoddy
it will drop out of the twist, somo
times like sand, and then again iu an
impalpable dust, that will like enough"
make you Bneeze. It youu inhale
enough of the stuff it would bo apt
to give you both a headache and sore
throat, for most shoddy is rank poi
son. Ever in a shoddv factory?"
"No."
''Well, 1 was, and I know some
thing about it Fact is I worked in a
shoddy factory jtiBt one week when
I was a much younger and more ne
cessitous persou than I am now. Ne
cessitous? Well, I should say so, for
nothing short of starvation could
have driven me to seek employment
in that poison mill. Talk about quicksilver-mining
aud that sort of thing
for turning live workers into galvan
ized corpse 1 "Why, such employ
ment is positively invigorating com
pared with a shoddy mill. I stood it
just one week, and was then laid up
for six months. Lucky I switched
off when I did, or I'd have been
atrophied into kingdom come long
ago. iwen as it was it was a close
shave."
4,How is shoddy made?"
'I can tell you how it was made
twelve or fifteen jears ago, when I
served my week's apprenticeship at
it. They may have made improve
ments in the milling since then,
though, of course, the product itself
is just the same mean, swindling,
poisonous stuff it always was. I was
placed over a sort of machine some
thing like a patent straw cutter, only
in lieu of straw, you fed it with cloth
scraps, remnants, clippings and rags.
These pass through the teeth of the
machine on to revolving knives, just
like - straw cutter, which minced
them up pretty fine. After that they
passed through another and yet an
other machine, getting minced finer
and finer at each operation, until the
stuff was reduced to a coarse powder.
This powder was then bolted, aud the
flue powder or dust that passed
through the last sieve was the beauti
ful stuff called shoddy, or flock. Then
came the dyeing process, and the
dirty job was complete. I never got
any further-than feeder to thepnmarv
machine. Although I kept a wet
sponge tied constantly over my month
and nostrils, the work was almost too
mnch for me at the end of the first
day. "Why, once an hour I would
squeeze out that sponge muzzier, and
the water that came from it would be
blacker than your hat, and smell
worse than any ragpicker's sack. At
the end of the week I pocketed my SC
wages as if I had stolen it, and 'slid
for home like a rocket, where I was
sick abed a long time afterward."
"Howdid the other operatives stand
it so much better than youi"
"Some of them didn't, while those
that did had cast-iron throats aud
lungs like bellows, I suppose. Some
men can stand anything."
"How is the shoddy mixed with the
cloth?"
"It is simply twisted up with the
warp before the weaving. This gives
fictitious weight and durability to a
fabric whose native flimsiness would
otherwise betray tho worthlessness of
the woof. Young man beware of
shoddy, whose presence in cloth yon
can always detect iu the manner I
I have told yon."
"But in rcady-tunde clothing;"
"There " on have no meunt of de
tecting it, save bv wearing the gopd-.
You have to trust to the honesty of'
the firm of whom ou pnrchase. '
'1 hough 1 don't deal m re.nly-made 4
goods mvrel . it is no more than just '
for me to snv that mauv firms that
deal in nothing else are perfectly hon
est and trustworthy, and whose guar
antee of what they warrant is as good
as gold. Only, in ndditiou to tiu
precautions J have given you, lie
very careful iu choosing goods.
whether made up or not, to know '
that the matenu! has been properly
fulled. Without a perfect course of
fulling, woolen cloth will always
3hriukupotj becoming damp."
"What is the exact meaniug of full-
iQSr . . "
"Fnllint' is the last or finishinc
process through which cloth passes,
or should pass before it is ready for
the wearer's use. It is u process by
which cloth is scoured, cleaused aud
thickened. It consists of a series of
pestlesor stampers, which alternate
ly fall into and rise out of a trough,
through which the cloth is being
passed, along with fuller's earth or
some other cleansing material. The
process, besides ridding the cloth of
the grease and oil used in preparing
wool, prevents it from shrinking
thereafter in coming in contact with
the wet You often see trousers for
instance, that looked large euough,
aud even overlarge, when first put on,
but which, nevertheless, shrink up
too small, or all out of shape, after
encountering a single hoar of wet
weather. That is because the, mate
rial was not thoroughly fulled. Iu
selecting clothing material, always
make sure that it has been nroperlv
fulled."
But how can an "inexperienced
person tell whether it has been prop
erly fulled or not?"
"He can't There 1- no way by
which he can. His only safeguard in
this respect is to take his tailor's
word for it. Heuce how" important it
is for every man to have an honest
toilor. Let me repeat my warning,
young man. in selecting clothing
material, beware of shoddy, and put
vour faith in an honest tailor."
Souieortlis fautet
Giving rise to dyspepsia are over
work, badly cooked food, hurry in
eating, too much grease, disagreeable
companions, too little sleep, too much
worry. Dyspepsia is a curse: but
Brown's It on Bitters is a blessing; be
cause it casts out dyspepsia, and
makes suffering people well. Mrs. E.
Patton, 2G20 Franklin street, St.
Louis, sas: "I used Brown's Iron
Bitters for dyspepsia, and it did me
good...
It is now claimed that petroleum
in tiu cases exerts an influence on
the compasses of a vessel equal to
the same amount of iron or steel.
Mrntl'M KbiuIhIoii of Pure Cod Liver
OH, with KypophofcphltfH.
Its Use In Lviuj Trouble. Dr. Hi
ram Cadokbtto, of .larksomille, Fla.,
sajs: "1 hae for the last ten months
prescribed your Emulsion, to patients
suffering inuu lung troubles, and thev
seem to he ;reatlj benefited by it- use?'
A Virginia walnut tree was recent
ly sold for SG00. It was so big the
purchasers made money.
"I was suffering from a severe
cough and irritation of the throat,"
writes Mr. S. T. G. Morsell, 921 N. St.
N. W., Washington, D. 0., "and Eel
Star Cough Cure completely relieved
me.
Sol Gold Jewelry,
Scarf Pins, data, Watches,
Piuiiot uiul Ormis ol (be Ocst
make ut Hie Lowest PrI'-.
The dnest stock of Jewelry 1m Astoria.
tarAll goods warranted as represented
GUSTAV HANSEN, JEWELER.
Astoria Bakery
AM)
Columbia Candy Factory.
Kit. .laekHou, Proprietor.
Candies. - 20Ctaperlb.
Hread, l'lt-s and Oak delivered rvery
dav.
T. G. RAWLINGS,'
Wholesale and I'etuH Ue:uVr in
Tropical, Domestic, Green and Dried
M'TS. CANDIK3,l)i:iKD .MEATS, KTf".
Fine Cigars nml Tobacco.
Next diKtr to I. .1. Arvnld's. Squeinnqnn St.
T.OTEO.
D ju.uij.ui ois-uieb.
Latest and Best. Tension by Spiral
Spring. New adjustment. Used bylarge.t
Kinks. Send for circular to
E. T. ALLEX.
410 Market St., San Francisco.
150 (
1 m fcj-
IUDOTAR
TRADE XI MARK.
rfiiinii simp
9M IINHH IK
t5& ja L. v
5. .& Bl. JK
Atmoiltitcltj
Free from OptateJ. Emetics and l'olsans.
A PROMPT, SAFE, SURE CURE j
tor Cough. Soro Throat, liourscaeu, CoMj,
lnautnin, Uroucfcltlf, Aitfcsia, Croup, YFL009-
iuk vuuju, muumj, l'ain la c&Mt, aa oiaer
alectfcm oXtha Throat "i Lane.
Price SO cents a bottle. Sold by Druggists and
lk-alew. ixirtlts unable to iniavt their dealer to
'tntmjjtl! ttt it fur them via recelet Vso Uo'.tlti,
Zsjirtu charga paid, Ig tending ore dollar lo
tUE ClUIOCS X. TOCELKR COSPinT,
diiiOirnrnul UiauC-tarf w,
Ktltlaaarr. SirjUaii, C. S. -1.
MItS. FVA WAI.LMAN. - Proprietor.
A.VrOMA, UKKttOX.
Firt Class in I'very ICcsprct.
NEW HOUSE.
NEW FURNITURE.
Fitted up -with ercrj- Conven
ience lor flie Comlorf ol
Transient and Permanent Guests.
Corner Sqiieinoiiu.i audVot ClSi Streets.
The Telephone Saloon
Tht- Finest KstjiblislmuMit of
tho Kind in Astoria.
Kj..pi.illy iittiM up for Hie Comfoit and
(ViiivpiiIpupi of Jliox who eiijnv :i
Social CI.i-s.
The ltst r Wines ami Liqunm,
The Choicest Ciurnrs.
Everything New and First-Class.
If. I..JEFFEIy. Prop'r.
PARKER HOUSE.
II. It. PAItKI'R, Proir.
lint Class in Every Respect.
Free Coach fo flic House.
Old Castle, Yspitti, and other
brands of Coke Tin Plates, for
sale in lota to snit purchasers,
now in warehouse at Astoria or
to arrive per Jowfa, or hrcher,
also Liverpool fine and coarse
salt. For further particulars
apply to
HHyor. Wilson & Co.,
Portland, Oregon.
MA
HOTEL
Caie
Smlies
Colnmma TransBortation GoiianT.
FOR PORTLAND!
Fast Time !
THE SEW
TELEPHONE
Which has hein Mieclally limit for the comfort of pawners will leave
Wilson & Fuller's Dock every
Monday. Wednesday and Friday at 6 A.M. arriving at Portland at 1 P.M.
Hemming leaves Portland, every
Tuesday and Thursday at 6 A. M. arriving at Astoria at 1 P. M.
ES An additional trip will be made on Hnnday of Each. J'eec.leaung Portland
at O O'clock inHnay rHurnlBsr. Paner h thU route connect at Kalama
fnr Sound pnrf. u. B. SCOTT, President
Wilson & Fisher1
Ship Chandlers, I
HEAVY AND SHELF
HARDWARE
' Parnts, Oils, and Varnish.
LOGGERS1 SUPPLIES.
PROVISIONS
AND
MILL FEED
AGEXTS FOll
Salem Plouring Mills,
Portland. Roller Mills,
Capital Tlotir and
FAIRBANKS' SCALES.
ASTORIA, OREGON.
Mertata anS CaHiet Maker,
SQUENIOQUA STREET,
XKvr to TtiK toi:ian f.rif.tnsfi.
0
VSTXW woik done in :i skillful manner on
short Jiotke at na.niu!ile rate-.
ASTORIA IRON WORKS.
Huston Strket, Neau Pakkkk Mousf,
ASTOKIA. - OKKUOX.
GENERAL MACHINISTS AND
BOILER MAKERS.
LAM MARINE ENGINES
BoilerWork, Steamboat Work
and Cannery Work a spe
cialty. Ofall Descriptions xaade to Order
at Short Notice.
A. 1). TVass, President.
J. O. Hustler, Secretary,
I. VT. Case, Treasurer.
Joux Forc.Supeiintendent.
S. ARNDT & FERCHEN,
ASIORIA. - OKEGOIs.
The Pioneer Machine Shop
eT
BIACKSMITH
c tpt r i
OUVJ - 'fVl-rJjUb-
w:.
and P-aKT&(7
Boiler Shop
All kinds of
ENGINE, CANNERY,
AND
STEAMBOAT W0EK
Promptly attended to.
A specialty made of repairing
CANNERY DIES,
FOOT OF I FAYETTE STREET.
Fast Time
STEAMER
B. B. Franklin,
'f?wjRrii fcir
Jx-BBSMiVf
'ifityFl"-
-
41:-iiMBRnLL
THE BEST
IS THE
t
j Royal Brand Flour
I Manufactured by the
OREGON MILLING COMPANY
! is of Superior Quality, and w Endorsed
by all who use It.
THE HOUSEKEEPER'S FAVORITE
Of Superior Kbin Quality.
Guaranteed io Give Satisfaction.
WYATT & -THOMPSON
Sole Agenfg lor Astoria.
Painting: and Paper ffinpt
KALS0M1NING ETC.
Paint SJiop in rear of premises form
erly occupied by C. II. Stockton, oppo
site the Court Ilouse.
All orders prompt!, ami sntisfaetnrly
executt d.
J. K. JD. GKAY.
Wholesale and retail dealer In.
GROCERIES, FLOUR, AND FEED
Hay, Oats, Straw, Wood, Etc.
LIME, SAND AND CEMENT.
Genei a! Storage and Wharfat-e on reason
able terms. Foot of Benton street, Astoria.
Oregon.
.WM. EDGAR,
Dealer in
Cigars, Tobacco and Cigarettes
Meerschaum and Brier Pipes,
GENUINE ENGLISH CUTLERY
Revolvers and Cartridges.
COKN'ER MAIN AND CHENAMUS STs.
The Gem Saloon.
The Popular Resort for Astorians.
For the
Finest of Wines and Liquors
Co to THE GEM SALOON.
ALEX. CAMPBELL. - - PROPRIETOR,
ASTORIA LIQUOR STORE,
AUG. DAMELSOX, - - Proprietor.
Rebuilt and. Refitted Throughout..
The Best of
WIXKS. LIQUOR, AND CIGARS.
For a Good Cigar, call for one of
"Danielson's Best."
Comer West 9th and Water Streets, Astoria.
n9-6m
Magnus C. Crosby
Dealer in
HARDWARE, IRON, STEEL;
Iron Pipe and Fittings,
STOVES, TINWARE
AND
HOUSE FURNISHING GOODS
SHEET LEAD STRIP LEAD
SHEET IRON,
Tim and Oc-ppa?.
Astoria Sail Loft.
Best of Work at Bottom Figures
J. HESS,
The well-known Sailinaker now occupies
ThAstnru Sail Loft, formerly occupied
by A.M. Johnson.
Boat Sails a Specialty.
ALL WORK WARRANTED
Come and see me at The Astoria Sail Loft :
nexttoPithian Riiildin'-.
Address P. O. Box 312.
j. Hess.
Floats! Floats! Floats!
CANNERYMEN who are In netM of
Floats. Copper Handles aud Mallets
should end their orders to
B. IF. BLOOIK
Clatskanie, Oregon, who has a qnintilv on
hand which will be sold at reasonable rates.
'SECURE THE SHADOW'
Ere the substance fade, and when jon -.Kit
Portland, make it a part of your business to
call on w. H. TowjfE, at the San Fran
cisco Gallery, S. W. corner First and
Morrison streets, and have your photograph
taken In the highest style of the art.