V
SCENES IN NAPLES.
The Metropolis of Italy a Great
City that Seems Far Back
in the Past
Borne Dooidcdly Uncomplimentary Com
ments Upon the Character of
Its People,
Outdoor Iodftcrs.
The thrco cities in Italy which Iho
traveler finds most interesting aro
Rome, Venice and Naples, writes a cor
respondent from tho last-named city to
The San Francisco Chronicle, and tho
interest they excito stands In tho order
in which they are placed. Considering
tho number of pages it filled in tho
world's history Genoa should oiler more
enticements to tho tourist. So also
should l'isa, Lucca, and other cities
in tho north, whoso deeds aro recorded
nt length in Slsmondi's "Italian Rain
blcs." Hut though every part of Italy
has its legends, its queer customs, and
its quaint rural modes of existence it
is only tho great cities or tho places of
fashionablo winter resort that present
Biifilclent alluremonts to retain tho
ewlft and unresting seeker after tho
world's novelties. As to Milan, it is
handsome, but too enterprising and
too modern to suit tho tasto of tho mi
gratory American, who sees at homo
quite as much of lifo in tho active form
as ho desires. Naples is still ancient
.and dreamy enough in spito of Iho ef
forts of modern cntcrpriso to infuso
somo of tho spirit of progress into its
inhabitants. What medicine is thero
drastic enough to euro tho malady of
traditional idleness? What invigoraU
ing remedies can enable tho system to
successfully resist tho languors of a
climate whoso soft airs scorn to invito
to everlasting repose? So it is half
awake, yot dreaming, whilo reprcsonta
tives of tho northern nations, Germans
principally, though tho English colony
aro numorous, try to infuso tho energy
of tho cooler regions into its veins,
whoso stagnant blood is tilled with a
latent fire. Tho passion of its peoplo
is, llko that of its volcanoes, ready to
burst out nt any moment.
Thero aro symptoms of progress, ed
ucational, industrial ovon, but tlioy aro
slight, and thoy do not seem as yet to
touch tho soat of tho disorder. To the
American visitor who comes hero full
of tho life and movement of his owa
country tho groat and not uuboautiful
oltv seems far bnek in tho past. It is
moro modern than Pompoli, but has it
really made any advances on that
memorable city of tho dead? It curves
tho grcon sioklo of ita quiot shores
about tho blue waters of its tranquil
bay. Vesuvius lifts forovor its un
quonchablo torch bosido it, and its peo
ple, idle or laborious, according to their
social station, their necessities, or their
inherited customs, labor, dream,
drowso, sleep, lounge, saunter, or in
dulgo in characteristic amusement's
much as thoy did a century ago, or
long boforo tho railroad startled tho
quiet of tho valleys and disturbed tho
murmur of tho sleoping sen.
Thero aro among tho Neapolitans
Bomo very admirable persons, but as a
whole tho manners of tho peoplo are in
marked contrast to thosu of tho citizens
of Homo. At Naples tho lower classes
nro vicious and disagreeable. J'liu
boatman who takes you on shore from
tho steamer, and tho coachman, whoso
draft animal is neither a horse nor a
pony, but somewhere between tho two,
will endoavor to collect a fabulous
amount of money from you if you do
not stand constantly on tho defensive.
Tho conductor of tho street-ear is often
out of humor, and scowls upon you.
Tho guard of tho omnibus, will qunrrol
with you on slight provocation, and it
is by no means impossible, that ho will
threaten you with a knife should you
bocomo a little too earnest in your re
monstrances. Tho entire population of
tho city, as at Suez or in Alglora, ex
pect youtotako them Into your service
If you ask a person in the street about
Bomo distant loonlity lie insists on ac
companying you to tho spot, and then
demands to bo liberally paid. If ho
even lifts his linger to indicate a place
not fifty feet distant ho expects at least
2 soldi. If you wish to make a pur
chase somo pretended interpreter in
tervenes and asks payment for the use
less tiud unasked service. Efforts to ex
ploit you aro constant at tho hotels
though in this respect honorable excep
tions may bo noted wnilo at tho cafes
everyone scorns to bo looking for
nn extia copper, and is ill-natured if it
is not forthcoming.
Although among certain classes at
Homo tho stranger finds himself im
posed on, It is not general. Thero is
an amiability that pervades all classes
of tho people, not nlouo thu aristocrat
ic and middle classes, who are utmost
universally kind and polito, but tho
coachmen and conductors of street-cars
and omnibuses, poUy merchants, and
ovon laborers scum to partake of tho
genoral good will. And though crime
is not always proportionate to tho
amount of politeness in any given com
munity, yot in respect to Homo and
Naples it may bo said that one may bo
taken as a gaugo of tho other, Tho
rudeness and coarseness of tho com
mon classes nt Naples is in direct ratio
to thu coarseness and rudeness of tholr
character and manners. Tho peasantry
about Naples nru hardworking. Somo
foreigners who have observed them for
venrs may somctimos be heard to dc
clarc that they aro tho most industri
ous people in tho world. It is truo
that in traversing tho country ono sees
them forever in their fields and vine
yards hard at work aiid seemingly full
of vigor in spito of tho enervating cli
mate. In tho city itself thero is also n
certain amount of activity to bo scon
everywncre. The lifo of a great city
could not movo on withont it. Shop
keepers nro busy. Shoemakers aro car
rying on their trade in tho streets, not
only in tho daytime, but far into tho
night Tho lemonade sellers, who
have thicr queer apparatus on tho
street corners, and who vend a glass
of lemonace and water for 1 cent, car
ry on a brisk trade.
Tho largo class of traders who mako
and disposo of ornaments in lava and
coral as souvenirs seek custom with un
tiring assiduity, though fashion no
longer decorates itselt with cither of
these specialities. As a class thoy havo
a keenness bordering dishonest', for
thero can bo nothing precious about
lava so near such a source of supply as
Vesuvius, and tho coral fisheries furnish
far moro of that pretty material than
tho world wants. Then their gold is
almost always pinchbeck and their
work bad. A branch of the coral trado
is carried on by n class of itinerant
venders with tho steamers that visit
tho port. No sooner is tho steamer
fairly at hor anchorage than tho deck is
nlive with them, and covered with their
pink wares, spread out in every availa
ble spot. Thoy have a sliding scalo of
prices, tho minimum of which repays
them amply. Thero are, besides these
classes, the laborers of tho manufactur
ing establishments belonging to indi
viduals or tho government. Hut all
this individual activity and industry
falls to remove tho slumberous impres
sion made by Naples on tho traveler
accustomed to tho quicker and moro
energetic movonients of tho chillier
north. A vast proportion of tho popu
lation is still unemployed, still sleep
ing, lounging, and convoying tho dolec
far nicnla idea which scorns to bo in
separable from southern Italy.
In 'books of travels written thirty or
forty years ago ono roads much of tho
Naples lazzaroni, who subsisted entire
ly on macaroni, which they devoured
in strings several yards in length, and
fairly incumbered tho pavemouts with
their presence. Thoy aro said to havo
disappeared, and this fact is given as
an ovldenco of tho industrial progress
of tho city. It is possible that thoy
havo disappeared, but (lie number of
those who can sleep as tranquilly tho
night through on a stono pavement as
on a spring mattress still astonishes tho
person who knows tho luxury of a com
fort ablo bed.
Nearly all theso persons aro said to
havo honest employment, at loast those
who pass the night on tho sidewalks of
tho principal streets. The summer
nights are warm, and tho architecture
of Italian cities, liko that of Franco,
forbids all sensible means of ventila
tion. So when night comes tho deni
zens of the close quarters in tho nar
rower streots swarm out into tho moro
airy thoroughfare, where thoy onsconco
themselves on the pavements, on tho
steps of adjacent churches, or in any
plneo whero they aro not in danger of
being trodden on or run over anil a
breath of sea wind renders respiration
possible. Tho person who lias road of
the la..aroni in books and is pleased
with the tradition can regard all theso
street sleepers as belonging to tho class
if lie sees lit. They pass their nights as
did the la..aroui, and as to honest oc
cupation, though thoy may havo it, it
is no doubt often imaginary. Italy is
exceedingly indulgent to the poor.
Thoy can sloop where thoy please on
the sidewalks, about tho fountains, on
tho steps of churchos, with their heads
resting on tho foot of tho altar, or in
tho nuddlo of tho street so long as
thoy do not endanger their own lives
and Impede tho still restricted com
morco of tho country. In Milan and
other cities of tho north thero is less
sleeping In tho open air, for tho mu
nicipalities have other use for tho
public thoroughfares and do not care
to encourage mendicity.
A Vast Difloronco.
Somo went out West,
With eager rest,
For toiiu) laud unit a homo to jrulu;
To work with might,
From dawn till night,
Aud "border settlers" became;
While tome went East,
To work the least,
Which they did with eager accord;
They lived for self,
Aud cheated for jelf,
Aud never would settle for boanl.
OooJaU't Sun.
Johnny's Opinion of Huntington.
"Vts, Johnny, C. 1'. Huntington was
once a poor Connecticut Yankee ped
dler, and tramped it over tho country
with his pack on his back."
"How'd ho git io rich?"
"Hy being economical and constantly
working hard."
"What'll ho do with his monoy when
ho dies?"
"heave it to lib relations, I sup
pose." "Thou ho will havo worked nil his
life for other people's, benefit, won't
ho?"
"I reckou so,"
Well, then, ho's a fool, that's what
he Is; aud I don't want to bo no Hunt
uon." Kentucky State Journal.
DOMESTIC HINTS.
6TUFFKD STEAK.
Take a good slice of steak, about one
pound, cut in ono picco and pretty
thick; then prcparo a breakfast-cupful
of bread or hard scraps of bread, and
pour over them as much hot milk or
water as will just soak them; if too
moist, squeeze out as much as possible.
Heat it up with a fork to break any
lumps, then add ono largo tablcspoon
ful of suot chopped finely, ono tablo
spoonful of parsley chopped up, ono
small onion chopped, half a leaspoon
ful of salt, a little pepper, and mix all
well together; uso a little Hour to mix
into a largo ball. Holl it up in tho
steak, and tio it into a nico round shape
with string. Dust all over the outside
with Hour. Put into a small stowpan
ono tablcspoonful of dripping, and let
it get quite melted; put in the steak,
and fry it all around carefully till the
outside is quite brown, then put in a
very little water, perhaps half a tea
cupful, and cover down the lid; let it
stew very slowly, turning it over often;
add from timo to time a littlo water.
Let it cook ono hour and tako off tho
string and sorvo with the gravy over
it.
veai. nrxAu.
This is a savory and economical modo
of preparing veal, thrco pounds being
cut from tho neck and shoulders being
used. The other materials being need
ed aro a cupful of rice, thrco table
spoonfuls of butter or a quarter of a
pound of salt pork, an onion, thrco
largo tablospoonfuls of salt, half a
strained tomato and four cupfuls of
boiling water. Cut tho veal into small
pieces and season woll with salt; chop
tho onion line, and put it into a stow
pan with tho butter; stir until tho on
ion turns a light straw color; then add
tho veal, and stir until that is browned
a little, being careful not to burn tho
onion; ndd the tomato and a cupful of
water, and sunnier gently for ail hour
and a half; now ndd tho other thrco
cupfuls of boiling water, tho salt, pop
per and tho rice, after washing tho lat
ter carefully in thrco waters; heat tho
mixturo to tho boiling point, then cover
closely and set back, where it will cook
slowly for an hour. Tho rice will ab
sorb nearly all tho liquid and bo tendor,
yot every grain should bo distinct.
Turn tho pillua out upon a platter and
garnish.
TOMATO SOUP WITHOUT MEAT.
Uno quart ot stowed tomatoes, ono
quart of now milk, ono rolled cracker,
ono tcnspoonful of soda, a small bit of
butter and a littlo salt. When tomatoes
:uo sulliciontly cooked add tho soda,
then tho cracker, butter and salt Hoat
tho milk in a saucepan and pour into
tho kettle, and as soon as it boils re
movo from tlto fire and sorvo it at onco,
TOMATO CATSUP.
Tako half a bushel of tomatoes, wash
them and cut them in pieces: put
thorn in a preserving kettlo with ono
quart of water and boil until soft; then
pass through a sieve and add half a
pint of vinegar, ono tumblerful of salt,
four red poppers, ono ounco of whole
cloves, ono ounco of whole black pop-
por and two ounces of whole allspice.
Tito spices should bo put in muslin
backs securely tied. Put tho whole on
tho tiro and reduce one-half. Whon
cold bottle tho catsup and cover tho
corks with melted beeswax. The bags
of spices must, of couse, bo removed
boforo bottlinjr.
MACAltONI AND TOMATO.
If you wish to prcparo a quart dish
for your table, till your dish about a
third full of macaroni; put it in a sauce
pan and cover with plunly of boiling
water to allow for swelling, and boil
twenty minutes to half nn hour; it must
bo soft but qtilto whole; drain oil' all
tho water; slir m a pieco of butter tho
sl.o of a small egg and a small cup ot
grated cheese, and placo in your dish;
stir over it a quart of woll-stowed toma
toes while hot and bake an half hour,
or until brown; salt and season toma
toes to tasto boforo adding to maca
roni. HUMS FOK COOKINO CAllIUQE.
Hoil tho cabbage gontly until cooked,
and drain it; put two ounces of butter
into a saucepan; iot it on i good lire,
and, whon molted, put in tho cabbage
with some salt and pepper; add half a
pint of cream or milk, and ono toa
spoonful of Hour, stirring constantly
with a wooilen spoon. Simmer until
tho sauce is reduced and sorvo hot
COLO SLAW.
Put tfcreo toaspoonfnls of vinegar in
a saucepan with a littlo salt aud poppor;
beat two eggs very light and mix witli
a tablcspoonful of Hour, a tcaspoonful
of butter, n tcaspoonful of sugar and
half a tcaspoonful of ground mustard.
Sot tho vinegar on tho stovo and whon
t bolls stir in the mixture, adding half
n cup ot milk, look (or two minutes,
rring constantly. Pour tho sauce
over tuo surcd cauimgo ami Jet it be
come cold boforo sorvlng.
CAlUSArii: 3AI.AU.
Shavo a hard, white cabbr.go into
small strips; tako tho yolks of three
well-beaten eggs, a cup and a half of
good elder vinegar, two toaspoonfnls
of thick cream, ono tcaspoonful mus
tard mixed in a littlo boiling water,
salt and pepper to suit the tasts. Mix
all but tho eggs together and lot it boil;
then stir in tho eggs, rapidly turn tho
cabbage into tho mixturo, ami stir well.
Mako onough for two days at onco,
and it keeps perfectly, and as an excel-
out relish for all kinds of meat
fwWw
W TnoYAUV'iij j
ft
Absolutely Pure.
This powder never varies. A marvel ot
purity, Htrength and wholesotneness. Moro
economical than tho ordinary kinds, and
cannot bo sold In competition with the
multitudo of low test, short weight nltim
or phosphnte powders. Sold only in enns.
Royal, 1Uki.no Powdkh Co., 100 Wall St.,
N. Y.
ENTENNIAL HOTEL BAB.
E. MILLER, Proprietor.
Harms fitted up tho Centennial Hotel
Bar-room, and removed my stock ol
Wines, Liquors & Cigars
to that place, I am bettor prepared than
ever to entertain and regale my customers.
I keep none but the best of
Eautern Liquors, Milwaukee, Walla
Walla, and Union Ileer.
Also, tbe Finest Brands of Cigars.
COMMERCIAL-
Liyerj ai Feefl
Orrosin: Centennial. Hoiul.
JOHN S. ELIOTT,
ritOPltlETOR.
( Having furnished this old nnd popular
hostelry with ample room, plenty of feed,
good hostlers and now buggies, is better
prepared thnn over to accommodate cus
tomers. My terms are reasonable.
Adam Chosmman, Pitoi'itiuToa.
Has now on hand nnd for sale tho best of
HARNESS, LADIGO,
UPPER and
LACE LEATHER.
SHEEP SKINS, ETC.
imsms..i:vi Efcicii:s
Paid for Hides and Pelts.
HOT LAKE!
Situated four miles west of Union depot
on south side of tho O.
R. & N. Co.'s rail-
rond
In Comfortable Rooms.'
Hoaltli for the Sick, nnd Rest for tho
Weary.
Especially adapted for tho Relief ot Wo
men. Is under the supen ision ot one who
hos hud thirty years' experience.
S. E. NEWHAR1), Proprietor.
SMOKE OUR
PUNCH
C6
Rest Havana Filled
Five Cent Cigar.
5
Jones Rros., agents, Unfon.
E. COLLI N'SKY & CO.
A Positive Cure.
MKN, young, middle-aged nnd old,
slnglo or married, and all who suffer with
LOST .llAAIEOtI,
Nervous Debility, Spermatorrhea, Seminal
Losses, Sexual Decay, Eaihug Memory,
Weak Kyes, stunted development, lack ol
energy, impoverished blood, pimples, im
pediments to marriage; also blood ami skin
diseases, syphilis, eruptions, hair falling,
bono pains, swellings, sore throat, ulcers,
clfects of mercury, kidney and bladder
troubles, weak back, burning urine, incon
tinence, gonorrluea, gleet, stricture, receive
searching treatment, prompt, relief aud
cure for life.
Iioiii Skxks cous'ilt confidentially. II la
trouble, call or write. Delays are danger
ous. Call nt once: Si 5 years experience Terms
Cash. Ollice hours 8 a. in. to 8 p. in.
DR. VAN MON
ISCAR,
JU2 KM Third St.
Portland, Oregon
SPRING BLOSSOM
i
ouruas v
BOILS, PIMPLES, HLOTCHES
And Eruptions of the Skin. Dvs
ptpsia, Sick Headache, and all
KIDNEY COMPLAINTS,
icuoiem ic qnoss, nrrriLo. vritm-
1 he uI Sprint lUo.im for ljriprp!, Indtcef
tluu tad Sick llcmdM'lie, ud hue fuuml II to act ii
nilrtWj M ftrnllo ArVot aud 1IUh1 1'iirtfler. I
jon.Mer It utirquali d. "You kit '. Illitrtjf to UM en
Lktu m reference."
Price, 60o Trial Sae, lOo.
Bold toy all Drusreasta
B B c?U i Eaa Uai Lisa
(LIMITED.)
Factory, Racine, Wis. Branch, Portland, Oregon
Manufacturers
CARRIAGES, BUGGIES, PHAETONS
Buckboards, Road Carts, Spring Wagons, Etc.
MITCHELL FARM AND SPRING WAGOMS.
CANTON UPPER PLOWS, HARROWS. ETC.
G CHILLED PLOWS. AND IDEAL FEED MILLS.
SEND FOR CATALOGUE AND PRICE LIST. FREE.'
MITCHELL & LEWIS CO., Limited.
192-194 Front St., Portland, Oregon. .
KIMBALL
Pianos & Organs
E. M. FURMAN, Agent
WALLA WALLA,
HOWLAND & LLOYD,
Munfueturors ol
FURNITURE
Main Street, Union, Oregon.
Keep constantlvon hand a largo supply of Parlor and Bed Room Sets, Bed
ding, Desks, Oflico Furniture, etc.
Upholstering Done
Lounges, Mattresses, and all Kinds of
age solicited.
JONES
Dealers in
Groceries, Tobaccos and Cigars.
Variety and Fancy Goods,
Watches, Clocks and Jewelry-
Musical InstrunionU, Picturo Frames, Bird Cages, Baby Carriages, Etc.
Candles, Nuts and Fruits, Sehaol Books, Stationery, Periodicals, Novels,
Etc, of Every description.
Orders from all parts of tho country promptly attonded to.
PHOTOGRAPH
Jones Eros., .Ajp-fcisias.
All Kinds of PlotojrajMc fori Done in a Superior Manner.
New Scenery and Accessories Just Received.
All Work Warranted to Give Satisfaction.
VIEWS OF RESIDENCES TAKEN (IN APPLICATION.
V" IBsa fen W SJ U ToV ,
of and Dealers in
WASHINGTON TERRITORY.
in the Best Style.
Furniture mado to order. Your patron
- GALLERY.